Superb Smartie

I had this happen on my old O3 some years ago when the car was about 6 months old. there was a bang and some fragments fell in; however most of the roof held its shape until I knocked it in. To get to my destination I closed the blind and then knocked it in, using a vacuum cleaner to pick up the granular pieces. Having worked for many years in the lighting industry for many years and many thousands of sheets of toughened glass go through our factory, we only saw one sheet fail, which was put down to Nickel Sulfide inclusions. Being 8m up a pole and pointing down there are not many other explanations. It does happen and is exceptionally rare. If you are that worried, you should get your side windows replaced as well, as they are toughened. To tell thermally toughened glass, look at it through polarized glasses and you will see a mottled effect. Compare the front laminated screen to the side toughened glass and you will see the difference. This is the result of toughening and not caused by any window tinting. Toughened glass is used as it is safer than un-laminated glass as the granular fragments are allot less dangerous than extremely sharp shards from broken normal glass.

That's the same as we get as OEM in Australia, being the Prof Svar detachable type. The electrics should swing up out of the way.

I used an OBD11, so Control Unit 36 - Seat Adjustment Drivers Side Byte 3 Bit 1 - Easy Entry Tick Active

Just tried it, you need to use long coding in the S3. It moves the seat back and forth ~50mm when opening and closing the drivers door.

I've put in over 70L after the warning light comes on.

Boot can't be closed with the button, only opened, can't be enabled with VCDS or OBD11 either. Should already work from the fob, press and hold the boot button.

There is a button on the underside of the ACC stalk which activates the speed limiter. Not really sure why you'd bother though.

Here is mine, just a week old. OZ spec 162KW with all the options which we can tick off over here.

From my understanding the DCC uses the ABS pump to stop the car, then on electric handbrake cars it uses this to hold it. For the O3 to hold, it would be relying on the ABS pump and burn it out.

Towbar prep puts a socket down near the back of the car to make it easier to fit the towbar wiring without needing to run wires to the front of the car. This is why there is a wiring kit for cars with or without the prep. Coding will be the same with either and included the alarm monitoring for the trailer wiring when the trailer is plugged in. This works the same as the test to make sure that the light bulbs are working. Note that you may have issues if using LED lights on your trailer. the coding does other stuff as well, including changing the engine mapping and safety systems when it detects the trailer is connected.

As said, tapping into the light wiring does not turn off the reversing sensors when reverse is engaged, nor does it recognize a trailer connected and adjust the stability programming to suit. (as well as showing the trailer icon on the screen when in reverse.) From my understanding it can create fault codes in the system due to the change in current draw through the trailer wires. I'm not saying that it can't be done, but cheapening the installation to remove a safety feature is not something i would even consider.

Whatever you do, do not use the HR electrics, they just tap into the loom using connectors. Use the genuine loom with the proper coding (westfalia offer one as well), otherwise the reverse sensors won't work properly, nor the stability control or alarm system. from memory Westfalia may have a towbar with the normal OZ flat tongue, rather than the 'ball', which would suit for a standard bike carrier. http://evt-automotive.com.au/tow-bars-towbar-kits/345-a40v-skoda-octavia-7-wagon-2013-06-2014.html Or the Prof Svar bar might have a flat tongue as well. this is OE fitment in OZ from the dealers. do not take 1600kg or 2000kg weight as gospel in OZ, it is 1500kg, as per the ADR requirements, even if the bar says more.

From memory i had to reset the lights and wipers after changing the functions then they worked perfectly. I also thought 5 flashes was a bit long so i set mine to 4.

Follow the instructions for VCDS with your OBD11. the screen looks different but the instructions are exactly the same. you don't need long coding for allot of the changes such as TMC enabling.

I'm afraid not, and you will find the dip and return to be inconsistent as well, i ended up turning it off.