Emsy

Well, after months... fault code 17552 is rearing its ugly head intermittently. Ive changed the maf, checked the voltage, checked and redone the earths under the battery box, checked vacuum pipes. It went off, drove fine for 30mins then switched it back on and the light was back. I'm all out of ideas...anyone have any??

I couldn't find it through the workshop manual, its not the easiest to navigate! So thanks for doing that. The hard thing is trying to trace all the wires as the fuses have been checked. It's never a simple thing with my car.

Thanks for the input everyone, its just so frustrating when there are soooo many wirey possibilities!!!

From other posts I've read, i think its supposed to have at least 1 thats supposed to be 12v?

Anybody?

Hey everyone! Well long story short... there's only 1 pin on the maf sensor plug that has 5v going through it, the other 3 are showing less than 1v. What's the best/easiest/ most likely area of wiring to check first? Thanks,Em

I wish it was just a blocked rad, much cheaper, but its had rad flush put through it and its been back flushed so odds are that its something more sinister. Is there any other way to test the radiator? I tried to get another garage to head test it today, but they just said there is no point testing it as the first garage is a vag specialist. Which has annoyed me alot!! You would think they would want the money!! Does anyone know whether the pd130 asz engine from a 2005 bora will fit the vrs, i don't think it will as it doesn't say so, i'm thinking engine mounts will be different, but its over 100 quid cheaper with less miles on it.

Haha, you're safe!! I don't think i totally cooked it because i stopped driving when it started hitting the red. Part of me is just thinking that to replace the engine is just easier than investigating further

Oh my fabdavrav! Too much detail haha. The mech today thought it was pressuring way too quick to b just an airlock and the coolant bubbling constantly back in from the outlet pipe, but I'll try it tomorrow before buying a new to me one. Yeah i heard that the blower settings didn't affect it.

That's what i thought too, but I've seen a bora engine for just over £300. I think he's thinking its a crack in either the head or block, so just easier to swap it all. It's doing my head in, so if it's going to fit... at least my car will be back on the road. It's been over a week now, i'm missing her, sad i know

Sorry i haven't replied, been super busy with having to use public transport! Anyhoo, garage took my car yesterday for testing and in his words... 'it's f@$*ed'. Its an indy vag specialist and they said they'd never seen one pressurise up so quickly, but couldn't say whether it was a cracked head or block without taking it apart. Does this seem right to you guys? He advised that the best and cheaper option was to just get a new engine. Well I've seen an pd130 asz from a bora, will this fit mine? Oh this engines a asz now i think?!

It doesn't smell like an exhaust pipe. Just took a whiff, neighbours must think I'm a bit strange. Everyone's entitled to their opinions. I've had a few people ask if I'm driving my boyfriend's car and funny looks for driving it. The reason i mentioned girly hands in one of my posts was that my hands aren't strong enough to squeeze the rad pipes more than once hehe.

the reason I'm hoping/ praying its not the hg is that I've not had any other signs of it ie no oil in water, no steam from exhaust, not using any extra oil and no coolant loss. I'm really at a loss now as i changed the water pump yesterday, didn't look like it was broken, although the strange thing was that there was no k seal on it at all??hmm.. needless to say i prayed it was that, but no, when i drove it, it was going between 100° then went to red, then dropped a little again. It seems to me that its not getting round the system or the thermostats not opening but i replaced that too the other day. Waiting for the garage to reply to see when they can fit me in for a block test.

I can't turn the ac on as the pumps not connected. I have spend most of the day at my brothers trying to bleed it, did a rad flush. The weird thing is there's no coolant loss until the coolant starts to boil. After losing all patience and energy, last resort before I get it to a garage was using a bottle of k seal which seemed to work, there was heat from the heaters. When I drove home the heaters went cold and only got warm when I put my foot down, started to go a little over 90 after about 10 miles then went back down. Got home, opened bonnet, theres hissing from the bottle,but the levels the same. Grrr

Oh no! That was my fear too. The top hose is quite hard to squeeze but I have girly hands, so that doesn't help