bw10030

Now I'm no software expert, nor do I know exactly how VAG fiddled the software, but . . . My understanding from what we officially know is that there is some dodgy software which, when the vehicle 'thinks' it is in a laboratory testing environment, switches in and creates test figures which cannot be met when used on the road. So there are two issues VAG need to resolve: 1: VAG cars post 'fix' in the lab environment are likely to record worse emissions figures as the dodgy 'lab software' is deleted from the cars; and 2: On the road, as the 'lab software' bit of code was never activated, the performance and emission figures etc. should be the same. For VAG to say they can't fix Passat's for example, implies they are trying to achieve the same, old, 'lab' figures in the lab environment, with the modified software. This would mean that the fix would affect how the cars perform at all times (no 'cheat' software, same used on road and in lab). In other words, meet the original emissions figures (lab figures) by changing all the software, and at the same time retain the original (on road) performance. If it were me I would just delete the dodgy bit of code and hey presto, job done, however the 'official' emissions and consumption figures would be worse (but actually closer if not identical to what users were getting anyway). This may not be acceptable to regulators however and would be a customer relations nightmare (but arguably no worse than what it is today!) I am very dubious about what the fix VAG are planning actually is. If they want to retain the lab test figures (politically expedient), then they will almost inevitably affect how the car performs on the road. So I am not going to be the first to have fix done to either of my two affected cars! If it was an easy deletion of the dodgy code, it would be done by now.

Hi - well, after an Easter's testing, I think there's a real problem. The issue only starts after an hour or so, and it doesn't seem to be affected by vent position or sunshine. I took the car out for a run, got it to normal temperature (21degrees, A/C on, Auto selected 'Dual' mode), and for a while the temperature was finely controlled. After I had confirmed the 'static temperature', I adjusted the driver side up a degree (to 22) - instant warm air. reset the temp to 21, did the same on passenger side, same result. Reset to 21 degrees, and gave the system a few minutes to settle down, then turned the drivers side to 20 degrees - instant cold air. Let this settle for a while, then turned it back up to 21 - no warm air, and the vents were continuing to blow cold air - indeed far more than the -1 degree decrease in temperature demanded. The only way to get the vents back to blowing 'warm' air was to set the temp to 24 degrees. Reset the temp to 21 once I had warm air and the system seemed to work OK. On another trip (i.e. the engine had been off and the engine cooled), I repeated the 'lower by 1 degree test', same effect (a lot of cold air and the temperature inside getting very cold), again when the temperatures inside and engine had stabilised. This time I left it at 20, and the interior just kept getting colder and colder - even on the passenger side, after a while. Turned the whole system off with the climate control for a few minutes (didn't want to risk frostbite!) turned it back on, still the same result. Turned it up to 24, warm air again. So sounds like something is awry. A visit to the dealer calls - I have a leak or more an audible drip - related to the sunroof which may be a dockyard job to fix, so they can look at it then. If I find an answer I will let you know via the forum.

Last weekend, I took my wife's Yeti (L&K diesel)on a long run (2 lots of 3 hour legs), and noticed a climate control issue. After an hour or so, we noticed the interior of the car getting colder and colder. The car was at normal running temperature, and the inside temp was set to 21 degrees. Outside temperature was 13 when I set off, but dropped to around 8. The system would not put warm air into the inside, I fiddled with various settings, and eventually managed to get warm air into the car by turning the control up to 24 degrees on both sides. The car did not get hot, but became habitable again. After 3 hours we stopped for a quick coffee, when we set off again the heater / climate worked fine - we had to turn the controls back down to 21. However after an hour or so the same thing happened. So a trip to the dealers is coming up, but any ideas what may be the cause?

Privilege. Always cheapest for me both for my Superb and wife's Yeti - never had to claim though so can't comment on the service . . . .

2012 Elegance happily accepts 32GB SD cards

I would go for the 170 - the extra oomph is worth it and in my experience the fuel consumption is no worse (indeed perhaps a little better) than the 140 PS model

OK so the consensus is it doesn't light any more for the recent models in the instrument cluster. My wifes is the same. Question is, is it simply disabled such that with a bit of coding it can be switched back on? Personally I would prefer the light in the dashboard (where it's easy to see) than one by your knee. Anybody done the -re-enabling (if possible), and know the ins - and outs?

Has the DSG Gearbox servicing been donee (if required)? If it's the 6 speed DSG then a 40000 mile / 4 year service is a must, go beyond that and you may start having problems. The service is only an oil and filter change (see posts on this forum), but its £279 at a dealer (there's a lot of specialist, expensive oil involved). Just had my second service done at 80000 and there is a noticeable improvement in gearchange quality, so I assume if the oil gets older, then the gearchange may get worse?

Check you can't get it with a 'bit' of Skoda finance - I did that on both of mine, took £3k finance, paid it off after 3 months (interest was about £30 + £60 arrangement fee), got a 2 year (minor and major) servie plan! Result. Put the £3k into Premium bonds, you'll be in 2 draws, you might win more than the interest (I didn't!).

Or you may have a dodgy battery. Modern batteries do catastrophically fail without warning - i.e. one minute they are fine, then next minute dead. The old days of 'slow cranking' or 'dim lights' are a thing of the past. However 5 hours from (nominally) fully charged (after a drive) to effectively flat is more than just a little drain - can the Columbus system really take that amount of current? It may be that the battery didn't charge after the last start (alternator not working) and you effectively drove on 'battery power' only, prgressively flattening it? There should be a warning (red ignition light) if this happens though? It's unlikely to be a dead battery at 2 years old (though you could be unlucky) or an alternator - and easy enough to test, when you are getting the dealer to look at current drain, also get him to test the health of the battery and its charging. There's not much else it can be!

Agree with comment about the gear lever in a manual (not seen a DSG yet) - but it is set way too high! Whoever signed that off at the factory? Stop / start again, useless (yet to drive a good one from any manufacturer), too keen to stop leading to issues at junctions, And finally bloody electric handbrakes! Is it me, or do these simply cause more trouble than they are worth? Hill hold on my wife's Yeti works great (stops you rolling back), but select the electric handbrake on in the Superb III and try to drive off, you will progress down the road with the handbrake on, looking like a learner on first lesson! I'm also not convinced about the 'improvement' in style over the II, but then nowadays new models look more like facelifts than new designs anyway. Maybe when more are on the road the differences will be obvious. Looks well built though, and will pick up fleet sales I'm sure.

Guess you're unlucky: In 2 years and 25K of Yeti motoring, I've had no issues. Small stomes have hit the screen, but no damage needing repair! Good question about the insurance though - I don't think there's a limit, but who knows . . .

It was 'due' a service, and was getting a little smelly. Had a new compressor and condenser fitted - still faulty (very noisy, needed another compressor apaparently. Sold the car . . . . !!!

Hi, had a rummage around the exhaust, and the earlier opinion of the clamp around the turbo / DPF seems accurate - there's definitely something wrong around there. But it does seem a b*gger to get to, so it will be looked at by the dealer when I can get there.

OK, thanks - that sounds identical! I'll be off to the dealer soon and will have this up my sleeve when they don't understand what I'm talking about! Thanks to all, and regards . . . .