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Yes there is.......... Jim

None of us have actually finished 6 races yet, so we still have our novice crosses. Hopefully those will all go in 2017.

Its such an important belt that it falls into the catagory of preventative maintenance. As rubber and the fibers age they deteriorate through both wear, heat cycles, fatigue and just age. At a certain point the likelyhood of a failiure is high enough that its time to replace before it becomes a time bomb.

gummi pflege, that's the stuff for seals.

I was only thinking the other day that life must be so easy for car dealers since PCP became popular, as the buying dynamic has changed so much. People used to save up for a new car (before instant gratification became a must have) and/or use HP or a bank loan, with the prospect of owning their car at some point. They would change their cars when they felt the time was appropriate according to circumstances etc. PCP is clearly designed to lure people in for a new car when their deal expires, every 3 years or so, because most people, especially after forking out every month for three years, are unlikely to have enough cash lying around to pay it off. It is one of the reasons why the level of personal debt has exploded, why car sales are at a record high (notwithstanding increasing exports), despite the fact that many people haven't had a pay rise in years. Despite all that, people MUST be seen in a new car, the latest, new improved version, although many cars seven or eight years old and older still look like new and function perfectly well. I am a petrol head but would never buy a new car again. The best car I have ever had is my current Lexus LS 400. It's worth only a few thousand, but has a 4 litre V8 engine. It struggles to do 30 mpg but depreciation is nil. I hate the car buying experience with a passion. I hate the bull**** espoused by car dealers and the occasionally thoroughly unpleasant experience at some car dealers (Mercedes of Doncaster springs to mind). I prefer to buy privately, but car dealers have made that all but impossible now with all the car buying sites they also own

As above thought i would treat myself, just arrived and what a lump it is 31 killos of german machine. If it works like it looks should be happy times ahead.

The more I think of it the more Im pleased with the choice! coming from a 3.0 petrol, this for me is a huge leap. thanks for everyones input. and yes,,, Im enjoying the new car!! So is Superskoda, and all other Skoda shops...spent loads already.

This is all too common on the roads I regularly drive. Easy to spot in this photo, the day after in the sunshine. However I hit it in the depths of a dark winters night. This pothole isn't a one-off, the whole 6 mile stretch of road is the same... This is what it did to the low profile tyres on my old Octavia vRS... Enough was enough, the roads aren't going to improve in the short to medium term. This was why I fitted smaller wheels and larger profile tyres to the Superb. Can't be chewed doing this at the side of the road several times a year...

You will have paid more for your car than an equivalent petrol model. You are paying more for the fuel each time you fill up too. Diesel engines can be quite poor for fuel economy whilst getting up to temperature, they are also generally more thermally efficient than petrol engines too so take longer to get up to operating temperature meaning they are less efficient for longer when used on short journeys, or in slow or stop/start traffic. All of this though is irrelevant if you like the car, it isn't always about the money. As long as you take the car out on longer runs as often as you can this will maximise the life of the DPF. Personally if I was in your position I'd have bought a petrol, the 1.4 TSi is a great engine. I cover 30,000 miles a year so have little choice but to run a diesel but for anything less than 15K a year petrol makes more sense, especially with how the smaller petrol engines have come on in recent years. Don't think about what could have been, enjoy the new car!

My Sportline 150 DSG Estate (Combi) in Moon White...

Newbie here, just joined express my gratitude to Richard for organising the day, and to Furbytom for inviting me. I enjoyed the experience of driving in the wet, but it was awesome when the track dried later in the day . SWMBO was there taking photos, and some are available to view here - http://imgur.com/a/GrTVA (I'm afraid there's a few to many gratuitous Clio pix though ). :thumbup:

I've heard on the grapevine the 230 pumps out about 250/60 Bhp I've has a 200bhp MKII VRs and this beast feels ooodddles faster, 4th/5h ( manual ) is awesome. I've set up a Standing order for my Speeding fines

Our AD Xmas sale order arrived today.... a decent selection of the range for use next year :thumbup:

Supposedly slight left drift is built into cars so if you fall asleep and let go of the steering wheel you drive into the kerb rather then into oncoming traffic, but if yours is more than a very slight drift to the left I would look to the wheel alignment again.

Thanks! I'm certainly no racing driver, but the car is pretty capable. Main highlights are a k04 conversion, quaife LSD, and in this video it had a set of Toyo R888r tyres on which made quite a difference over standard road tyres. Yep pretty much as above - it's a home made headrest mount with a GoPro 3+black. Drop me a PM if you want pics / any other info I also caught this on camera, if anyone knows the VW T5 owner. I honestly thought it was going all the way over at the time!

This sounds like you're saying BT infected your machine because you're complaining about your excessive use charges?

Wow you lads are good , I've just been out to have a look and it works , and on closer inspection there's even a little symbol on the inside of the flap to demonstrate the procedure :sun:

Indeed - it is quite subtle as it is notches cut into the filler cap itself, which you then use to hold it on top of the open flap, as demonstrated by muddyjim.

Hi folks car sorted it was the oil pressure switch was leaking on to the wiring loom

Do they not rest on the top of the filler flap?

Dip beam pattern has always had the 'kick up' on the left (on RHD vehicles). Designed, I assume, to light up the left hand road edges. When I did MOTs many years ago this line had to be correctly aligned when checking beam settings.

Yeah let's turn this into a brexit thread ! Not enough of those across the www...

Every morning I go into the garage to do my exercise in and effort to win the battle of the bulge. Sat in front of me while I'm doing this is my bike, shiny and begging for me to ride it yet I've not had the chance for the last few weeks. Each morning it teases me some more knowing my work load won't reduce until after Christmas, my bike is an evil temptress.

If it's wet I can almost guarantee we will be the fastest cars there... That's what happened in June anyway

9 x MX5 booked on

Going to spam this thread while my car is still clean :P

850+ aftershocks in two days. Now Wellington's getting a month's worth of rain in 12 hours. So all the water is going into the new cracks and causing land slips. But apart from that we're pretty good. No damage to the house, neighbours are all okay. Wellington city has had a fair bit of damage to buildings, mostly by the harbour on land recovered from the sea. Some almost new buildings have been damaged, which is a concern as they were built after the Canterbury quakes to the new codes. The 7.5 at midnight was huge, started slow and built for about two minutes. I was watching the clothes swaying in the wardrobe and light fitting swinging in all directions. It's pretty minor compared to the loss of life and property on the South Island but this has screwed up our holiday plans in January with relatives coming over. It's going to take years to clear the slips on the coast road. And this is NZ, so there is only one road. We have a hotel booked in Kaikoura, which has no roads to it at the moment, and we planned to drive that way to the ferry. Not a big deal of course but annoying, we were looking forward to going whale watching in Kaikoura.

This is started as a informational thread following comments in other threads and any posts with further information and/or corrections are more than welcome. Please however don't use this thread to start a discussion on the benefits or otherwise of a DMF. What is a DMF? DMF stands for Dual Mass Flywheel. A traditional flywheel is a large lump of metal, usually with a relatively high mass which acts to smooth out power and torque from the engine. A DMF is made of two pieces of metal connected by a toothed and sprung system with damping. A DMF is designed to reduce transmission gear rattle and ease gear changes. Another function of the DMF is to provide isolation between the crankshaft and gearbox to reduce torsional spikes. This is a useful web page, with information on DMFs: http://www.cdxetextbook.com/trans/clutchMan/clutches/dualmassflywheels.html This video on YouTube shows a DMF: This video on YouTube shows a failed DMF: What cars are fitted with a DMF A DMF is fitted to the following: Mk I Fabia: - VRS (PD130) - PD 100 models MK II Fabia: - TDI models MK I Octavia: - PD130 TDI models - Some other TDI models. (1998 onward typically) - 1.8T models, including vRS MK II Octavia: - All TDI Models - 2.0 T and 1.8T petrol engined models. MKI Superb: - TDI models MK II Superb: - All TDI models - Larger petrol engines. (If you know others that are or that one of the above isn't post and I'll fix it ) Diagnostics The following are signs that your cars DMF is possibly gone or on it's way out: Your car "sounds like a mad midget trying to hammer his way out of hell". Rough idle, combined with a jerky uptake of drive Jerky pulling away A large hole in your gearbox with oil pouring out. Many garages will tell you that the gearbox has to come off to confirm if there is an issue with the DMF. I've been reliably informed (thanks MoggyTech) that if you take the starter out, then you can see the play in a failed DMF. Also my skoda dealer confirmed to me that there is an inspection hole on the 02m gearbox, which can be used to check the DMF. It was suggested the price for either of the above routes was about the same. This means a much smaller bill for diagnostics, so if your garage tells you they need to take the box off at hundreds of pounds to check the DMF, then you know it's time to find a new garage. Likely costs to replace a DMF. Typically if a DMF dies you should replace the DMF, new seals and the whole clutch kit at the same time. The reason for this is that the labour cost for taking the gearbox off is a lot higher than materials and as such you don't want to have to risk pulling it off again. Under warranty this may not be the case and it comes down to if the DMF has damaged the clutch. Costs are around the £500 to £1000 mark, depending on who you use to carry out the work. At present a DMF and clutch kit can cost from as little as £200 (none genuine) to about £600(OEM) although prices will obviously vary with time. Likely causes of DMF failure and how to minimise the chance of failure. There seems to be a good number of cases of premature DMF failure on cars reported on this forum and others. While the DMF (or a certain design of DMF) may be a relative weak point in the drive train, there are some things can increase the likelihood of premature DMF failure. Racing Starts Driving around at very low RPM Putting a lot of power down from low revs Sharp and harsh application of the power Remap (See below) All of these put much larger strain on the active parts of the DMF and can increase the likelihood of an early failure. Avoiding these where possible and having some mechanical sympathy should reduce the likelihood of problems, but obviously the part is a mechanical items and will have a designed lifetime. Regarding a remap, it should be noted that a remap can cause the car to deliver more power or torque than the DMF is rated for, which will obviously reduce it's effective life. This is not a given for all remaps and it should be noted that the quality of a remap can vary wildly. While some vendors will provide an excellent service, taking into account the DMF and other factors, there are others who may provide a poor quality map which takes no account of these factors and can shorten the life of the DMF and other components. (A search should reveal more). Hope that helps.

As the last thread seems to have dissapeared I have reconstructed the 312mm guide. Please feel free to make any comments if the guide isnt detailed enough and I will amend. As allways with anything mechanical on your car least of all brakes you are unsure about what you are doing get a profesional on the job. The tooling required 12mm, 17mm and 18mm sockets Breaker bar Impact driver Hammer 7mm allen key Brake bleeder (Gunsons EZ bleed is perfect) 11mm spanner The standard, rather tiny looking 288mm Fabia vRS front set up (the same as the SEAT Ibiza 130 Sport/FR) Here is a comparrison between the std 288mm brakes and the 312mm and its clear why you cant just use the carriers on the old calipers. Right back on with the job, remove the brake disc retaining screw and persuade the disc off with the correct toolage. Slacken off the 11mm bolt on the fluid line and nip it back up, this will make it eaiser to remove when the caliper isnt mounted to something solid. Remove the two 18mm carrier bolts and remove the entire caliper/carrier assembley. At this point leave the fluid line connected. Now clean any rust up from the hub face and fit the new 312mm brake discs, instantly looking more manly. Next job is to fit the carrier back onto the hub with the 18mm bolts Now fit the pads into the caplier and carrier and attatch the caliper to the carrier with the two 7mm allen key key sliders, also fit the anti rattle spring to the outside. The fluid line can now be disconnected from the old redundant caliper and connected upto the new one. On this car I used the standard line, this does work fine. You can use the S3/TT line if required, it does give you a little more slack but is not required. Bleeding the hydraulic system is now required, for this i'd recommend a pressure bleeder as it saves potential damage to the master cylinder and can make this a one man job. Repeat for the other side, fit the wheel back on (tighten bolts to 120 Nm) and sit back and marvel at the glory of your new brakes Now go steady for a few hundred miles, they may feel a bit odd until they are bedded in. The brake pedal may feel a little spongy until the pads have settled but it should be quite firm before to long. As allways usual disclaimers, I accept no responsability for anyone following this 'guide' who may fit the brakes incorrectly. If your not sure then dont do it. Also note worthy is the Fabia II front brakes are unchanged, The vRS uses 288mm brakes which are ATE. However they are not compatable with the 312mm set up, the calipers have a different profile and pad as I found out. But a complete 312mm set up will bolt up the same, as I have done on my Bocanegra Regards Ross

Skoda alloys are renowned for for being weak, especially the bigger diameters such as 18 and 19 inch. You can thank the elastic-band-thin profile tyres for that. If you can live without the more attractive appearance of 18's then put the refurb / replacement money on some smaller alloys with higher profile and more absorbent tyres. This is what I did, I'm running 17's... http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/373406-can-i-fit-22550-r17-tyres-to-my-superb/

Hi silver I'm in sproxton I'll give them a call see what the score is Thanks

A Skoda and an MX5... a man after my own heart!

1) Can be a little crashy on bumpy roads but not anything you wouldn't expect from a sporty suspension set up. 2) I get 30-34 on similar roads, slightly better on longer motorway/faster roads. (I don't think mine has ever been in Eco so I can't answer for that) 3) Mines not mapped as I don't think it needs it to be honest, most people think that they kick out more than 230bhp anyway. Also pricey for a Revo remap. 4) Can't remember what's standard but heated seats are a must at the moment!!

I`m a bit of a number plate nerd and in the good days prior to the new registration system, vehicles in East Kent had K as the second letter on the 3 with the third being between E-P. There is a mass of evidence of this with East Kent Buses on google images. Another popular East Kent reg was FN! So my ideal modern number plate would be something like (G being our prefix) GJ66 KKE. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=east+kent+buses&espv=2&biw=1259&bih=886&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiduYLjoLDQAhWKL8AKHXWdDBcQ7AkIQQ&surl=1#imgrc=fStBLfxY9fg0pM%3A

Www.realoem.me is worth a go, but the relevant diagram is confusing bordering on misleading in terms of which bolts go where ISTR. I think I started to make a cleaned up version a while ago, will try to find when I get home in an hour or so.

+1 I first drove an LS400 when Toyota/Lexus loaned one to the automotive consultancy I was working for in the 1990's - it was an eerie experience because it was SO quiet! I particularly remember driving on a then newly opened concrete dual carriageway where road noise in all the other cars I had driven there was approaching deafeningly loud, but in the LS400 the ONLY noise at 70mph was the splat of flies hitting the windscreen. My NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness) colleagues had no idea how that level of isolation from engine and road noise had been achieved while still maintaining a car that was good to drive and didn't have secondary ride issues.

Who aspires to own an Octavia?? :D :D

Just an update, sorry for double post. They managed to somehow detect a sporadic fault, and have ordered the part in for replacement FOC under Warranty.

I've just been for a testdrive in the the 150PS diesel manual estate (I'm interested in the hatch but dealer doesn't have one). Really pleased with the car and glad the engine doesn't seem to suffer with such a big load to carry, very smooth and usable torque. I went on a good 1 1/4 hour drive on mixed roads and the car felt great. Even the mass of the estate didn't seem to be an issue when reversing, as I was worried a camera may be 'essential' but the sensors alone should do the trick. The ride is very nice and smooth, even with the 19" wheels and it doesn't feel like a barge in the corners either. I couldn't detect any tyre or suspension noise at all. Some wind noise on the motorway but still much better than my current car and it's quite windy today too. It feels significantly better than the Leon in every respect. I'd be happy spending 2-3 hours in it per day. I'm really glad it lived up to the reviews and reputation. I had another good look at the business grey model in the dealership and I think it looks great from every angle; will defo go for that colour! The salesperson I'm dealing with will be calling me back tomorrow so now just to get the right price and decide on the options/spec.

For my VRS TSI there is very little difference between Premium & Super. MPG may be a tiny bit better for Super, but I cannot feel any performance difference and it certainly doesn't justify 5-10% higher cost. However, for the past year my fuel of preference has been Tesco Momentum 99, because it costs about the same as other non-supermarket Premium fuels, plus gives me the placebo of superior quality. Shell V-Power has provided exactly the same MPG as bog-standard Tesco Premium for me, but others will swear by it. The overall averege is appox 28mpg for my mix of Premium fuels and 28mpg for Super.

LOL lots of stuff by the looks of it Trev.

Verry nice. I've done the same. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/411541-skoda-octavia-vrs-mk3-blackpearl2-bulgaria/?p=4712779 But my dowpipe is HJS, no big difference, because Milltek uses HJS . You must buy a VW Racingline silicone pipe . It looks and fits lovely! (I bought my from Awesome). Lovely car, lot's of extras. Waiting for the next mod. Regards, Iskren

More depends on the type of journey you do. Are your journeys 15 miles or 25 minutes without too long sat at tick over? If not the EGR valve will develop a fault and need replacing at £600 to £1000 and the DPF will become blocked requiring a 20 minute blast on a motorway at 2000rpm to clear the warning light. If you do short journeys get a petrol or a 2008 to 2010 1.9tdi (no DPF on these).

So what have you gone for instead?

Further to my recent answer on the 500+ thread, I managed 601 miles on 35.0 litres back in September. Edinburgh to London plus M25, during a particularly hot spell so some air-con was used. The highest theoretical range seen so far on my PID was 429 miles driven, with a range to go of 205 = 634 miles. Avg. consumption showed 81.5 mpg at that

Next stop the bodyshop.

Miserable weather :(

These are all original Skoda alloy rims ever fitted onto Felicia.

Also probably worth mentioning that if you get electrically adjustable seats there is more scope for adjustment than manual seats.