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Showing content with the highest reputation on 15/02/17 in all areas

  1. Work carrying on as some of you might have seen on our Brisky Racing FB page. I should do a website too really at some stage. Anyway... update as I had issues logging into Briskoda for a bit. I secured an additional number for us as it became free. Whoever had 59 didn't renew this year for Tin Tops. You know, just in case we want to run seven Fiestas, mine and six others... So currently we are here: Car 50: few finishing touches. (Yellow) Car 51: final checking and stickers. (Orange) Car 56: paint shop. (Green) Car 57: preparation. (Purple) Car 58: awaiting parts. (Blue) Car 59: bought and to be collected. (Pink) As you can see they will all be white with a feature colour to make it easier to pick out the drivers from each other at a distance as numbers quite similar. Car 50, is yellow. It just needs it's racing numbers and a sunstrip and it's good to go! I am very happy with how it's come out. Looks clean and will be great to see a few lined up together. Car 52, final checking underway. Car 56 in the paintshop, Car 57 having engine and gearbox work. We are looking good to have the first four done for the first race at Snetterton on Sunday 2nd April so we should have five Fiestas in total there.
    7 points
  2. Had the call just now, following a second letter from Skoda UK which has remained largely unread. Firstly, the guy asked me to confirm a few security details. I asked him why he needed me to provide this information, since he had called me. He gave up on that, and instead asked if I had received the letter. I told him that I had. He asked if I had made an appointment to have the fix applied. I said that I hadn't. He asked if I was planning to. I said no. He asked why. I told him that as far as I was concerned there is nothing wrong with the car. He thanked me for my time and rang off. I don't see any need to be unpleasant to these people, to try to make a point or to 'get one over' on them. They're call centre agents: they know nothing about the technical details, and aren't going to be able to answer questions on that subject. All they're tasked with doing is to find out whether the postal notification campaign is being effective, and to remind/prompt people that the fix is available. If you make it clear that you're aware of it but don't want it, that's their job done.
    7 points
  3. 5 points
  4. Thanks to Lennie (Jaspire) for taking on a 7 hour train trip down and 5 hour road trip to collect yesterday Smashing bloke, and very trusting to part with that amount of money before even seeing the car Hope you have a long and happy future together
    5 points
  5. Case proved George, they weren't going fast enough. If they were going fast enough they wouldn't have been caught. Facetious comments aside, speed is rarely a problem, its inappropriate speed and or bad driving that causes problem. I've fewer issues with someeone driving a well driven road missile than some ignorant tvvat driving a 1.2 Corsa at 90 on the limit of the car's performance and well beyond the driver's.
    5 points
  6. If some scumbag wanted to 'clone' the registration number of a 'legit' Octavia, to fit fake plates to an identical stolen one, where do you think the best place to find the reg of a matching car might be? Threads like these are ideal for them, along with Autotrader, eBay Motors, etc. Blanking reg numbers is not exactly a case of 'privacy', more just sensible internet use/policy.
    5 points
  7. I benefit from people driving too fast........... I deliver speed awareness courses......... I'll get my coat.......
    4 points
  8. I'll be picking her up on the 28th of Feb and immediately changing the grill surround to a black one. Face Lift Smashlift... Exited now!
    4 points
  9. Hello fellow car obsessives! I posted this elsewhere and Rainmaker mentioned the detailing thread. So, I'll repost. I've only had the car for a month and this is the first real attention I've given my Sportline. I used Meguiar's Ultimate detailing spray and followed with Mequiar's Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax. I used to have a black car (never again) and have to say that red is much better for not showing the dirt. The red got quite lustrous under a couple coats of wax. Nice. I've decided the red is not a bad colour for a big car.
    4 points
  10. Finally yesterday after a month my car was already to pick up now onto Friday to pass my test
    4 points
  11. By unpopular request, and because I've got the thing in bits, here's part one of how to dismantle your TSFI BWA engine. Removing the sump is, in my opinion, an important thing to do on an elderly TSFI due to the typically VAG habit of over complicated design backed up with really cheap bits (known as 'cost engineering'). Specifically, the cheap bit you really want to be wary of is the Balance Shaft/Oil Pump chain drive unit. This masterpiece of cheap casting and tactical application of rubbish plastic is entirely responsible for the health of your high performance, daft oil service interval engine. Without it, the oil don't pump, and when the oil don't pump, the cam chain tensioner doesn't tension, and then that eats itself... and half the cylinder head with it... and probably the turbo as well... and maybe even the spins the mains bearings too. Good job VAG engine designer chap. Not. Anyway, here's a pump chain tensioner and chain I prepared earlier; ’ The more eagle eyed amongst you may not the fact it's in many bits, and I now have several chains, rather than just one. It works on the same basic principle as the cam chain tensioner - oil pressure pushes the plunger out, forcing tension into the chain. This in itself is a self defeating design, as there will always be a moment or two at start up before sufficient oil pressure is present to tension the chain fully. Anyway, this lump of tat sits between the two sprockets on the balance shaft unit (full details in part 2 of the guide) and is driven from the crank sprocket, which is at the end of the crank... but, we're a long way from that, so here's how to remove the sump. Tools required: 10mm hex socket and extension bar with wobbly end. T30 Spline bit 5mm Hex/Allen bit 16mm hex socket. One of these; It's a Teng 510505 - importantly it is a long reach 5mm hex with a rounded end. If you're gonna do much to this engine, I'd recommend investing in one of these - it's a very useful thing, and the BWA is covered in 5mm hex bolts in awkward places Lastly, appropriate Tea, smokes, gloves, and rags for mopping up. Parts Required: Sump sealant Return Pipe Gasket Sump bolt (yeah, I know nobody does this anymore, but I'm old school) Step 1: Remove oil from engine - personally, I like to put most of mine in an oil catch pan, with some up my sleeve, so that I give off the subtle aroma Eau D'5/30 all day. Remember to place the full catch pan somewhere where you can trip over it later. Step 2: Unplug oil level sensor from rear underside of sump Unbolt the Aux Water Pump mount from the front side gearbox end of the sump (5mm hex) Unbolt the charge pipe from the cambelt end of the sump (T30 Spline) - note, you don't need to remove this to remove the sump. However, if you're going full strip down, it will get in your way later. Unbolt oil return pipe from back of sump. It will drip oil (this is where your sleeve comes in handy). It's on a flex mount from the turbo above it, so okay to leave it hanging there. Step 3 Unbolt bellhousing bolts holding gearbox to sump - 3 x 16mm hex (big bar recommended) Step 4 Unbolt sump bolts at the locations shown below using 10mm hex socket. Now, contrary to what all the internet experts said, I didn't need to cut half the gearbox out to get to the two bolts on the gearbox end of the sump - simply crack the nuts with the 10mm, then use your shiny new Teng long 5mm to get them out as VAG conveniently put 5mm hex inserts in the nuts. They will probably drop into the cavity behind the flywheel, but easily retrieved once the sump is off. Step 5 Remove sump - nothing more than a tap with a Technical Adjuster (aka hammer) should crack the sealant. It will drip oil from everywhere, so be prepared. Step 6 Clean/inspect Sump. The inside of the sump is unremarkable - there's a plastic surge plate at the back, which can be unbolted and removed, and that's about it. However, if you're a trackday fiend, it is worth considering that it is entirely unbaffled - the only thing stopping the oil swimming about is the balance shaft unit, which sits fairly low. However, you can see the tidemark of the oil after cleaning in the photo above, so there's plenty of space for it to slosh about. In terms of cleaning - I just got stuck in with engine degreaser and an old toothbrush. After that I filled the sump with boiling water and chucked in a few dishwasher tablets to breakdown any remaining oil and more importantly remove any degreaser residue. You don't need to clean it - mine was full of bits of chain and tensioner - but a clean sump is a happy sump. Conclusion A simple job, and cheap in terms of parts required for refitting. The ancient art of Sump Divination is almost lost these days, but you can tell a huge amount about the mechanical health of an engine by what's kicking about in the underbelly. Also, for the sake of a couple of hours of oily fun, you'll get to see how good or bad your tensioner unit is. Tune in next time for the really interesting/scary bit which is the balance shaft unit. Dunk
    3 points
  12. Well... now Karl has the new vRS wagon..... time to get detailing and bringing this beauty upto standard!! First full day's detail.... mainly decon work today.... no polishing as yet... much better!!! Almost looks a different colour!!!
    3 points
  13. I'm guessing that this Sportline has not had any paint protection since it was put on the road in October. So I spent today washing and waxing my first red car. I used to wash, polish and wax my black Brera twice a year. The Sportline is a big car! You notice this when you try to find a parking spot and when you wax it. Almost four hours I spent - a wipe down with a detailing spray, then carnauba wax, two applications on the bonnet. The Brera was an exercise in simple lines and subtle curves. The Skoda has more angles and creases than you can shake a stick at! Still, it's a fine looking car. The polishing swirls are much harder to see on the red car than the black car, but I got there in the end. The warm red colour gets deeper and quite beautiful under wax. I was impressed with how many of you are going this GTechniq route. I looked into it and baulked when I saw the price. I decided that I actually enjoy waxing my car! Well, it looks great now. Photos don't do it justice. I'm good now until September...
    3 points
  14. So after yesterdays snow collection and 100 miles on filthy roads the new Yeti wasn't looking very new so after fitting the dashcam and loading the PocketWorld GPS speed cameras it was time to give it a bath. Now I like my cars to look clean but I also like to do it quickly. The following took about 1 1/2 hours. First up heres how she looked when I started. Not too bad all told - obviously Business Grey is a dirt friendly colour! First thing was to apply fallout remover. If you have been following the other thread on this you'll know what it is! I used Power Maxed Iron and Fallout Remover. Spray on - leave to bleed - rinse off. That was a rear wheel. Fronts always pick up more. Also used it on the bodywork. Here you can clearly see where the transport tape has protected the surface, hence the clear line. So, rinsed off and then foamed with Bilt Hamber AutoFoam to loosen the dirt and road film. While this was doing its thing I gave the wheels a clean and also the badges etc. Then it was rinsed off and then shampooed with Power Maxed shampoo. Rinsed again to leave this. Pretty good... but clearly no protection on the paint. So to my lazy persons weapon of choice. Purity X spray sealant. Gives good lasting protection and is very economical. 5ml in 500ml of water through the spray lance covers the car. Let it work for a bit. Rinse off then dry. Yes it looks exactly like the foam but you can here it reacting with the paint. Anyway final result is this. Given that it was overcast and I was fighting the dew point I think the reflection shots speak for themselves. Wifes using the car in bit so no doubt it will be back to square one! Still at least it will be quick to clean. Purity X makes the water bead like you wouldn't believe and has great self cleaning and drying properties - think RainX applied to the whole car! If you've stayed with the post this far well done and thanks for reading! Simon
    2 points
  15. Hi everyone/anyone! I'm back owning a Skoda again after many years, and it's nice to be back! Briskoda is a mine of information, and has a great community vibe. I learnt to drive in an Estelle 120, it was a great little car and taught me a few things! My second car was a J reg Favorit 1.3 hatchback, it even had alloys and a rear spoiler! Third was a Felicia 1.6i, to be honest a bit of a disappointment reliability wise. Then I moved over to a 2001 Renault Megane 1.9dci, which now my girlfriend has, 195,000 miles! Now though I'm back in a Skoda. I've wanted an Octavia ever since they were introduced and was super excited to pick up my 2014 Octavia estate 2.0tdi elegance just over a week ago, with less than 15,000 miles on it. I've cracked up a couple of hundred miles in it already and I just smile a lot! Comfortable, loads of space, plenty of go and 55mpg easily. Looking forward to many years of adventures!
    2 points
  16. I've tried both ACF50 and FS365 and personally I prefer FS365. ACF50 only needs applying a couple of times a year but the crud sticks to it so your bike always looks dirty and it makes a mess of any MF cloths you use to clean the bike. To remove it you also need tt use something like SDoc1000 which itself is expensive. FS365 on the other hand is easier to apply and the crud doesn't stick to it so much as it's just a light oil rather than a gloopy coating. You do need to reapply it every time you clean your bike but that only takes a few minutes extra, but on the plus side it doesn't mess your cleaning kit up. For someone riding every day in winter or can't be arsed to clean their bike ACF50 is probably better, but I don't even ride every week at this time of year and I like my bike to look clean all year round. Each to their own though
    2 points
  17. Cheers Brimma, well worth it, my wife has driven it, and says its a lovely car so I may have done something right for once Got over 60mpg sauntering up the motorway to Glasgow and back today, so no complaints here. It's a credit to you Bryan, runs spot on, happy wife happy life as they say.
    2 points
  18. I have been trying for some time to try and get Skoda to sort out their MyDestinations website so that the POI installer actually works. Most recently Skoda claimed it wasn't their problem because the data for updates and POI's is not provided by them, it is provided by a company called HERE and their website is www.navigation.com. Having contacted HERE, and having gone on to their navigation.com website, you can see that they provide the data but they insist, and I think they are correct, that the Skoda website is provided by Skoda, not HERE. I have gone back to Skoda customer service and will update this forum in due course. In the meantime if others could help by emailing [email protected] to also complain about the POI problem it might help a lot.
    2 points
  19. Yeah yeah yeah..... And Arsenal are going to win the PL for the next five years running too.
    2 points
  20. I hadn't ridden a bike for about 45 years until a friend talked about his e-bike. I have no kneecap on one side and the other knee is very rough due to over-compensating for the one without kneecap. I thought long and hard about an e-bike and decided it was worth trying out as I was recovering form surgery and was feeling very unfit..... I had a demo (you can tell I am ex motor trade!) on a KTM e-bike with a Bosch Performance motor, which can triple the effort put in, and ten gears..... I couldn't believe it. My wife saw the look on my face when I returned to the showroom and without me saying anything, turned to the salesman and said "he wants it if you can do a decent deal!" The weather hasn't been kind since I got it, with snow and ice as well as tons of rock salt, so I've only ridden about 50 miles but loved every minute of it. My mistake was buying a bike in the winter but I save the £500 increase and got a great discount! One or two have suggested a e-bike is cheating but perhaps don't realise you can drop the power down to zero as you get fit.
    2 points
  21. In that slushy, icy stuff we had a few weeks ago, the X5 squirmed a bit in full winters putting the power down not gently enough when testing what grip was there. I would imagine it would be awful in a M Sport Spec with the 20" Sport wheels. I didn't take the Octavia (with the Crossclimates) to work as the forecast was for more snow - so took the better equipped car. The Crossclimates have been very good so far and not noticed any problems so far (6k travelled) in the soggy NW - mainly on motorway and ocassionally on A /B roads.
    2 points
  22. Having read through a lot of this I decided to get the "squirters" changed on my car. It's a 2011 CAVE car which I bought second hand. It was going from full to the bottom marker on the dipstick after between 1200 and 2500km. It wasn't too much hassle to keep topping ti up but I decided to get the work done anyway. It cost around €900 which included a service. The garage looked up what was needed and did the breather pipes too. That was six months ago. I was disappointed at first as I had to top up two weeks later (down by a quarter). However, since then it hasn't used any oil at all. The economy is also slightly better. I do about 500-700km a week. I just thought it would help to report back and to thank those who posted before.
    2 points
  23. Must not be tempted. Must not be tempted. Must not be tempted. Must not be tempted. I'm bloody 2 weeks off too, must get Fabia finished.
    2 points
  24. A good chunk of it is about control of your situation. If you're held up by traffic in front of you you'll want to go faster no matter how fast you're already going. If there's nothing in front of you and you can choose your own speed it's less frustrating/stressful. At this stage of my life I find it less and less interesting to pursue high speeds on the motorway. It's much more fun trying to maintain a good average on the back roads
    2 points
  25. Well the German supplier already delivered today - ordered Sunday - delivery Wednesday!
    2 points
  26. Why do people drive stupidly fast. Normally they are a pratt , inconsiderate etc. Mainly however, they don't plan their journey, set off late for an appointment or whatever ,,make no allowances etc. Probability very high for getting caught speeding, full stop. Unfortunately you may be that normally civilized person, law abiding, but once behind the wheel of a projectile you turn into a" plonker Rodney !! " Oh, bloody hell, I've just described myself . Answering your question :No!
    2 points
  27. Cheers, you should hear the little monster great fun.
    2 points
  28. That looks awesome Gripper!! What a lovely looking car! I want one!
    2 points
  29. That would be right. The cooling capacity and current/power demand of and automotive air-conditioner is roughly equivalent to a small single phase domestic split system which can service one or two rooms, or a small flat/unit. The current drawn is from 2 to 3 kW. My 1.4tsi has a maximum of 103kw output but at low speed cruising probably less than 15kW produced so the figures we are bandying around all stack up. Modern domestic units are usually inverter based so can vary the load and current drawn and our Octavia aircon can vary the load on the engine so in my tick over figures what I forgot to mention was that under full load (just switched on for the first time on a very hot day) then the consumption can rise to 1.2L/hour. It settles to the lower figure when the cooling condenser has reached its optimum temperature just above freezing.
    2 points
  30. Good call... For some reason and I truly do not know why... Of course I'd have to do a deal which included a large forest in Wales
    2 points
  31. They have removed the original cheat. There is no 'new cheat' to my knowledge, instead the newer software is able to meet the Euro5 requirements without it. This is likely to be by changing when the fuel is in injected and changing the EGR rates as combustion simulation technology has improved. The real world emissions will still be higher than the Euro5 figures but that's "normal" for more vehicles. From the information I've seen so far: - Maximum torque/power haven't changed although the torque curve has - MPG is harder to confirm, some people have had increases whereas others decreases - EGR rates are likely to be higher to reduce combustion temperatures and therefore NOx emissions There is no information about long term effects on the EGR/DPF, if there is an increased failure rate it'll be very hard to prove it's the fault of the update. Plenty of the cars having the fix are already at the age where EGR/DPF issues aren't uncommon. As for your vehicle, it's completely up to you currently: - If you worry about NOx emissions and do the majority of your driving in areas where it's an issue, get the fix done - If you worry about the changes in performance/economy/longevity of your car, don't get the fix done If you refuse the fix, you can have it done at a later date where there may be more information about long term effects.
    2 points
  32. Few pics from last weekends work.
    2 points
  33. Its the other way round, get caught just over and first offence you get offered the speed awareness course, get caught over the above prescribe limit and you get a fine and points. Aside from all that I feel I do benefit from driving fast, it help relieve stress.
    2 points
  34. Mine is permanently on. But I turn my wipers off going under bridges, and that more than compensates for any lost mpg.
    2 points
  35. 2 points
  36. Thanks to all bringing this to my attention The car is now sold and payment taken after a few days negotiating, and is due to be collected next week Took a while, but I think the buyer has got a bargain, and I've gained a bit on the trade-in offer, so a win-win all round
    2 points
  37. Means the rear seat belts are not fastened.
    1 point
  38. Not overly kean on poor boys but what I will say it, that is a damn nice cossie. My dream car!
    1 point
  39. I stand corrected V Power Nitro or whatever the Shell posh petrol is called.
    1 point
  40. Had identical repair this month, cost £33 for heating element, £103 for labour, +vat Skoda dealer. Failed just outside warranty but am writing to Skoda UK to try and get policy claim paid. Not happy as may well fail again, according to BRISKODA posters.
    1 point
  41. One of the more important factors missed by many car manufactures is the ability to get a move on from 30 ish to 60ish mph to do overtakes and also allow others to get passed slow moving vehicles as well, not just them. 0-62's are commonly given and max speed, not many modern cars are around that can not keep up with modern traffic, but the ability to get some decent acceleration seems to be beyond some vehicles or just beyond the driver. Often the cars sitting up the backside of the one in front is the one that just manages to pull out and overtake at some rather oddly slow speed. Maybe they need a bit more of a run up or a bit of a dropping of a gear or 2.
    1 point
  42. Laminar flows are important in maintaining a constant steady flow rate with no peaks and troughs. This is near impossible in a forced induction engine as the air intake varies with the increase in rpm as more air is required especially with the pull from the turbo. After the air filter the air has more turbulence but as it is pulled into the ducting to the turbo it decreases as it is slightly compressed. The closer is gets to the turbo the more it is pulled which removes the turbulence more. If you add a grid into that air flow it is creating more turbulence not less. A quick Blue Peter experiment to prove this is run your kitchen tap. This normally has a fine mesh at the end of the tap, count this as your air filter. Now put a kitchen sieve into the flow of water and you will see it creates more turbulence in the stream. The hot wire MAF cools down quicker the denser the air. The ECU then measures the amount of fuel supplied to match the air density. Cold weather the engine feels more powerful compared to a hot summer day. If you break up the density of air by creating more turbulence the MAF will take longer to cool down. Another Blue Peter experiment concentrate the air flow from a desk top on your self and you get cold quick. On the same speed setting set it to oscillate and the air flow is no longer directed at you and you're not as cold. I really think this is nothing more than a parlour trick by VW to fool the public.
    1 point
  43. Welcome along! Best to post this in the Roomster forum https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/101-skoda-roomster-mk-i/ as most of the owners will visit there. I'm sure you'll get a quick reply there.
    1 point
  44. However if you go really really fast neither the cameras or plod will catch you. So you get where you are going extra quick and no point or fines So with that time and court saving advice I'm off to get the car chipped and de-restricted.
    1 point
  45. Any pictures and price?, can email me if easier hutchy, cheers
    1 point
  46. Will be my pleasure mate! Look forward to getting the paint corrected at some point but will sort that out with you later on!
    1 point
  47. But for some that's not a problem to be paying a bit more tax for a bit more power. I would happily pay £110 for that engine given its available in the Leon and gets good reviews.
    1 point


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