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Not been on here as much as I would have liked, but big things happening at Brisky Racing. Next year sees the start of a new UK Championship, using the TCR regulations already active in 14 countries since it started two years ago. This is planned to fit between the Clio Cup and BTCC on a cost/car scale. We are planning a three car team, with the first already built and due for collection from Germany this month. we've gone for the VW Motorsport Golf GTI TCR car, well proven over the last year in many TCR series.

Yep. Love this car! Still familiarising myself with it and all the toys it has... An absolute cruise missile of a car! Very impressive.

A week & 450 slow miles in I have some observations. Its quick but, unless you floor it from a standing start its not outrageously quick feeling however, a look at the speedo will remind you it is quick & how fast you are actually going. Although, its in-gear acceleration is great, its quite refined, I'm sure this can be rectified by aftermarket tuning. DCC, Sport setting isn't too harsh for road use but, wifey loves comfort setting & its does refine the sports nature of the car for longer journeys. LED lights are very good if the self-leveling doesn't help on up hill down dale country lanes trying to find ways round traffic jams however, the main beam is just epic. The wet 7 speed DSG is smooth & slick, I'm really liking the manual paddles too. Other than the size of the new Amundsen screen, the standout feature of the car for me are the seats, perforated Alcantra with fake leather backing is easy to use & keep clean & does stop you sliding around during moments of excess. The support from seats is great with the electric control of the lumbar support being well, actually supportive which so often isn't the case. The new Amundsen is not only bigger but a lot faster, the in journey re-routing is a very helpful feature although, I have cause to doubt the age of the traffic info. Haven't got around to Skoda Connect as yet but I do fear, it will require a new mobile as mine is getting on. What else, I like the seat release levels in the boot, nice touch on a hatchback that I haven't had before. The single side compartment in the boot means a full set of golf clubs fits straight across the boot & the factory fit towbar has a place in the spare wheel foam tool piece which, is handy too. In short, I'm very happy with the basic car, the insurance company only wanted forty quid to upgrade from the little 1.4 TSI too although, I've not yet found how much for the mods as I've yet to do them. Oh & black is a biatch to clean !!!

I am planning to bring our brand new TCR car there for the forthcoming 2018 TCR UK Championship too if you want a nice close look at it.

I've had both the pre F/L and F/L octy the old front end looked good on all know matter what octy you had the new front I think only works for the vRS and scout. saying this I'm very happy with my F/L vRS the new front works well with the rallye green and black design package

Hey all, The Abarth is up for sale (check out the for sale section!) and the replacement has arrived........ Alfa Romeo Brera 3.2V6 Q4. just look how beautiful it is........ car pretty much looks and feels brand new... full service history oil changed less than 10k every time (65,000 miles) , which is vital for these engines to keep the cam chain in good order. New 18" wheels and tyres, not a single blemish. Car drives superb, silky smooth V6 with bags of torque and a lovely noise. effortlessly took me the 200+ miles home with the cruise keeping me legal on the motorway.. got a respectable 29.2 mpg, not bad considering the horror stories of "don't buy the V6 you cand afford to put fuel in it!" .... ffs we only got 30 mpg out of the abarth on the motorway! this is ticking over at 70mph in 6th! Very comfy, yet bags of grip... inteligent 4WD system, rear biased, sits at 72% rear and 28% front normally, but can put 78% to the front if required.... cool traction control system (Years ahead of the RS focus "drift mode" ) , if you turn it off, it will let you tail slide but not spin All looking good so far ... typical Alfa though, the blue & me media system talked to me in Italian when I tried to pair my phone, and the USB socket you use to add files (like language) to the system seems to be missing :( awesome BOSE stereo system fitted.... massive "skydome" roof, glass all the way back...... plans so far: 1) fix blue and me, so we can pair phones/stream music etc .. 2) buy a s/s exhaust to add to the noise (the OE exhaust has seen better days, looks pretty done for, even though its not leaking!) 3)upgrade the headlights to HID's (the dipped beam is very poor) 4) at some point I would like more power... currently 260bhp, which is enough, but the car is hampered by 6 cats! x2 in the exhaust manifolds, which can apparently be removed and replaced with aftermarket manifold, and it will still pass emissions with the exhaust cats in place.... this also frees up much power bloody expensive though ... think they are about £1500 :( cars brakes are huge 4 pots on the front, and look pretty much brand new. watch this space, I will post more "car porn" pics as they come along! lol...

You may have missed the humour/sarcasm in most of the replies...

Picked up my 245 today

Superb Sportline 4x4 280 DSG Quartz Grey MY2018 Backrest Release Bluetooth phone connection Canton Sound System Crew Protection + Rear Side Airbags Dynamic Chassis Control Front Parking Sensor Heated Front and Rear Seats Heated Washer Nozzles Lane Assist + High Beam Assist Panoramic Sunroof Power Boot Premium WLAN Rear Parking Sensor Rear View Camera Removable Parcel Shelf Sunblind for Rear Side Windows Temporary Spare Wheel Travel Assist + Traffic Sign Recognition Tri Zone Climate Control Virtual Pedal for Boot Opening Ordered 26/5/17 Collected 1/9/17

@RicardoM & @RainbowFire how about this for a novel idea... try ignoring each other as this is getting very tedious, If you cannot find it in yourselves to ignore each other than a mod can do it for you by restricting your privilege to post, it’s your call...

What an unusual first post; I wonder who burntcrisps2 works for...

My 'nearby' family run Skoda dealer gave up the franchise a couple of years back. Such a shame as they were very good. The 'modern' VAG group dealerships leave me as cold as ice. Their only interest is selling PCP deals, stupid so-called VIP events, and expensive servicing. The emissions scandal topped it all off for me. As an aside I bought an approved used Mini. The contrast with VAG customer service is incredible. My last two new car purchases were both Skodas. Never again though. I am not in the least surprised by the terrible service you have received.

There are soooo many useful topics for VCDS users. We can't pin them all, so this is the pinned topic of pinned topics

Collected yesterday (Moon white, 190 manual), this car has surpassed my expectations in every area. Ride is very comfortable (19's), handling is excellent, throttle response acceptable (bit of a delay but manageable), after reading on here all these were of concern but tbh should not have been. For reference, came from Seat Exeo ST 170 remapped to >200bhp (old tech at this stage) but also have clocked many Km in a 2016 E220 AMG, I am loving the Superb experience!

Decided to fit the OE mudflaps today, pretty simple job and didn't take longer than 30-40 mins. Heres the lowdown. If you follow this guide you do so at your own risk Car is a Superb Estate Sportline 4x4, photos are from front passenger side and drivers rear. Part numbers Front - 3VO 075 111 Back - 3VO 075 101 Tools needed Torx 25 bit and ratchet Pliers Electric drill (right angle if you have one) 7mm drill bit The mudflaps come with all fittings required. Front Mudflap fitting I managed to fit them with the wheels still attached, a right angle drill would make it much easier. 1. Put wheels on full lock 2. Remove 2 x torx screws attaching wheel arch liner/wheel arch 3. Remove plastic plug (little plug in the middle of the photo) holding undertray to wheel arch liner (I used pliers for this) 4. Separate undertray from wheel arch liner and fit captive nut (from the fitting kit) where the plastic plug was. 5. Offer up mudflap and mark location of hole 6. Drill hole with 7mm drill bit 7. Offer up mudflap and hope the hole you drilled is in the right place. 8. Fit 3 x torx screws 2 (original) fit into the wheel arch/wheel arch liner and 1 (new from fitting kit) fits underneath into the new captive nut. 9. Fit plastic plug (from fitting kit) into your correctly located freshly drilled hole. 10. Job done now do the same again for the other side of the car. Rear Mudflap fitting The two sides are slightly different. I'll add comments where it differs. 1. Remove 2 x torx screws from wheel arch liner/wheel arch 2. Remove 2 x trox screws from sill and underneath the car (not required on passenger side) 3. Passenger side only, fit 2 x captive nuts (from the fitting kit) to sill and undertray 4. Offer up Mudflap, ensure that the hook at the top hooks inside the wheel arch 5. Insert 4 x tork screws, 2 original into wheel arch liner/wheel arch, 2 new (from fitting kit) into sill and underneath car arch liner. 6. Job done, now do the same again for the other side of the car. Quite please with how they look, looking at the car normally you can hardly even notice them.

Who paid Emission Analytics for the testing? Where are the independent test results? Where is the evidence from Stobbart?

Just to let you all know. The fault was a faulty crank sensor.

Ferrari are meant to dominate in Singapore but I'm not so sure. Momentum could be a key factor and it is not with Ferrari yet. I was surprised that Bottas was able to pass Ocon and Stroll a lot easier than Vettel despite the Mercedes issues with dirty air

Actually, not being a smart arse... Couldnt @Tech1e maybe verify the claim regarding Morgan Motor Company being used as a testimonial?? Also seem to recall @Llanigraham knowing a few guys working there?

Mercedes cruised that. Hamilton said he was saving his engine after turn 1 Lap 1. I think they hid their real advantage in that race. Ferrari boss Marchione put the boot in to his team after the race too. Team principal Arrivabene alongside did not look happy.

Loosen the interior door handles of your Kia, this way when the ones in the Kodiaq creak they will still sound quieter than your Kia

To be fair that checklist Silver's put up seems more to make reference to checking and adjusting the tension, rather than inspecting the belt itself. So the belt could be shoite and about to pop, but as long as the tension's alright or adjusted correctly.... Gaz

PMSL @ Corbyn,Gardiner, Starmer, Thornbury being in touch with anything that 'hard working families' are worried about or that are going to have to endure into the future. They are all in it together right up to their every day where their every need is kept on record so that expenses can be claimed and subsidies provided for their food, drink, accommodation and travel. One thought is a man that can not find a seat on a train with seats available and another is a lady from a normal kind of upbringing that sneers at Union Flags and white van man or woman. (EDIT< Sorry Flags of St George) Then there is the Legal Eagle that works for the Law Firms that are taking what ever stance their customers want on fighting BREXIT at the expense of Tax Payers and those that voted in the majority for BREXIT. Revealed_ How much your London MP claimed in expenses 2015-16 - Politics - Hampstead Highgate Express.mhtml Then Barry Gardiner MP, Does he work for Barry Gardiner MP & Family / Friends, or The People of the UK, or The Peoples Republic of China, or just all of them? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barry_Gardiner

Love the fact that people just denounce everything as snake oil without doing some basic research online, google throws up loads of interesting links and facts. https://www.exeterchamber.co.uk/blog/2016/07/21/clean-air-technology-used-in-rockets-and-submarines-promises-greener-and-cheaper-motoring https://www.whitesquaretech.com/latestnews?category=Evans Transport https://www.gasworld.com/reduce-emissions-with-the-cgon-ezero1/2013341.article http://www.fleetnews.co.uk/news/fleet-industry-news/2016/01/28/cgon-fuel-additive-claims-to-reduce-emissions-by-80 Its been developed over 8 years, been known about in the fleet marketplace for at least 2 years, been tested in the fleet environment (at least 18months) for millions of miles by some small "unheard" of transport company called Stobart and proved upto 50% reduction in adblue and something like 5 to 7% better fuel economy. As with any new product its new and there will be little reviews, but the big boys are already well into this and fleets across the country are testing with excellent results which is why they wont be making big noises about it. Its been independantly tested at Millbrook and Bruntingthorpe, some pretty important test and validation facilities. This is about to take off and expect to see ads for it in October 2017 and not just in the UK. Its about to take off in USA, Canada and Australia. Its not just another hydrogen fuel cell, its actually an ortho hydrogen fuel cell. I happened to come across this via a throw away comment in a Sunday Times column today regarding a high mileage Passat and the debate on replace with new or keep. After delving deeper I am planning on getting this fitted to our diesel Yeti ( EA189 emissions mod done) as the ROI is a mere 10months. Would love to be able to get an EV version of the Yeti, like this http://www.kreiselelectric.com/en/projects/electric-yeti-4x4/ , but thats mega money and not even available, so this ezero1 product is a steal at the price. This is undoubtedly the answer for all those motorists who do not have the money to buy a new or newer car and want to reduce their emissions and gain some better mpg also, which is the majority of private motorists with potentially higher polluting vehicles, whether diesel or petrol. Rather than a scrappage scheme or new car incentives as they ought to be called, the government would be better off promoting this type of technology with a discount or fixed money off. There are other solutions too, not just this, but Continental with the new 48V systems that are about to become the norm. Again this is retrofittable to older vehicles. See this... http://www.caradvice.com.au/564190/worlds-first-48-volt-mild-hybrid-system-in-production/ and this.. http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/car-news/100060/super-diesel-tech-to-cut-emissions-by-60-per-cent https://www.continental-corporation.com/en/press/press-releases/2017-04-25-super-clean-diesel-64756 This cgon technology fits to all petrol, diesel and lpg vehicles which means buses, vans, lorries, plant machines all of which pollute more than cars do. In London more NOx is produced by gas central heting than cars, but that is not being witch hunted as diesel and petrol cars are by the so called greenies.

Yes, I believe so, however as this thread demonstrates that isn't clear and it really ought to be given the importance of the cambelt.

I put it on their Facebook page and their response was a totally pointless, gave me a link to the dealer locator website despite me clearly telling them I knew exactly where my local dealers were. Honestly Ive just had nothing but terrible since I bought my Octavia vrs in 2014.

So additional updates, i have 25000km racked up since November. So its first full service is happening in the next 72hrs. My regular guy is on holidays so using a sub - the kindly gent who put my aux belt back together... I have also ordered 2 new front bearing kits but theyve not arrived yet. One of thems definitely gone, but i cant gauge which side, so sod it, doing both... regular mech can do that job when hes back and they have arrived. I had also got 2 new key cases as the existing ones were fairly knackered. 12quid off ebay, they even came with new blades and little opel inserts for the back. Spot the difference... Problem - got quoted 35quid per key to copy the blades?!?! And couldnt swap them directly as the new keys have a slightly different spacing on the spring mechanism. Bit the bullet last night and found a neat panel pin that fit.. Disassebled the keys and squeezed out the little split pin retainers in the shafts, swapped the blades over and put them back together. I now have 2 perfect keys, and saved meself 70quid in 15mins..

A remap will take the 190 to 220 and 500Nm! By then you will wish you had 4x4

1, Auric Goldfinger. Retired Train Driver 2. Lee01. Job entails sitting in a van drinking tea. Sometimes with tea in a tent. Sometimes I connect phone cables. 3. Roo. Sits at computer or on a train looking at wiring diagrams drinking tea. Sometimes I fix them too. 4. Jars. Operational Quality & Claim Manager in the Automotive Logistics industry. 5. RobClubley. IT Systems Engineer and part-time motoring journalist. 6. Customs & Compliance Analyst for top ten International Logistics company. What did I do, or not do, to deserve BREXIT !

The OE badges are a PITA when washing the car, for this reason I wouldn’t entertain adding more on the car.

Seriously?

^^^^ They were the wheels on my Tdi Vrs Roy ^^^^ Thanks for clearing that up

Sounds like a BS valve that's giving trouble.

I'm the owner of a brand new second hand 2009 Skoda Superb mk2 twin door 1.9tdi. Happy to be a member of this forum

My 2005 fabia vrs whistles becuase the egr valve is blanked so permanently 'off' if you blip the throttle it should cause the valve to open and the whistling may stop or reduce. certainly nothing to worry about just how the exhaust gases are flowing through. It might be that the new valve is all nice and clean so no carbon deposits to quieten down the egr flow if that makes sense.

Check it's not the rears.... Try pulling up the handbrake on a clear straight road and see if it starts vibrating.

bump.

Rainbow, You are welcome to pop in for a cup of tea anytime...........Be glad when all the tourists go home.... Chelsea tractors everywhere.... How do they make those radio's so cheap......... I had a Nissan Figaro, and the radio fo one of them was £499.00

1, Auric Goldfinger. Retired Train Driver 2. Lee01. Job entails sitting in a van drinking tea. Sometimes with tea in a tent. Sometimes I connect phone cables.

Thanks for replying. He has tried David Silver who were able to supply some other carb parts but not these.

I had Sam Fox on my wall. Look how she turned out.

Chips are much maligned - they are an absolutely superb and healthy option if they are cooked in sunflower oil and only lightly salted. I've not put any chips in my mighty 1.6d. I've had a few daft gob****es telling me I need to put a chip in it. As if one chip that stinks of diesel is going to make a dinner.

+1 to Ken. Even the ronseal ebony black wood stain let the grain show through. Have it on our front door for 5-6 yrs and its still in good enough nick.

Back from the detailers so I can use it. Exactly what I was after, feels similar to my old VRS but with some added comfort and refinement that the VRS missed. And yes I do park like a ......

Sunset shot.....

Yeah I'd love to come, are there any spaces left ? @BossFox

Fitting Locations & Pin assignment skoda_rapid_nh_fitting_locations_2015_eng.pdf

I tried some different polish and wax today, instead of my normal poorboys i went for autoglym super resin followed by high gloss wax. Think i may have found my new favorite brand.

Rear indicators PY21W Philips X-treme Vision http://www.powerbulbs.com/product/xtreme-vision-py21 OE on the left LED on the right:

Hi folks here is a DIY thread on replacing Rear axle bushes. (with links to pics now fixed) It is not hugely technical job but you need patience and plan for not having car done in a day. I think I could probably do the Job in 4 hours now providing no unplanned issues arise. And with this pics and instructions you should do it quicker than I did on my first attempt which was approx 7 hours. Although this did include taking pics and fussing around with other area's to sort whilst car up in the air. Main Tools needed. Sockets and spanners: 14mm (Whiteline RARB bolts/nuts if one is fitted) 16mm (rear shock lower bolts/nuts need replacing) 18mm (axle bush bolts/nuts), 19mm (home made bush installation tool) Drill and Drill bits Grease WD40 Hacksaw Home made Bush installation tool. Trust me you need it or get the laser or Sealey item for VW. Like this one : http://cgi.ebay.co.u...atchlink:top:en I could not justify the cost for one time use so made one up out of a long bolt couple of nuts from B&Q and some thick metal brackets from Wickes all costing approx £8 Parts Used Rear axle Bushes 6Q0 501 541E Skoda Fabia VRS Bush Euro Car parts p/n 610780015 £24.86 Bolts and nuts Bush Bolt – N10409903 (x2) Bush nut – N10106402 (x2) Lower shock Bolt – N90517304 (x2) Lower shock nut – N10286110 £11.70 I went with the Fabia VRS bush, as believe it or not is stronger than the Octy VRS one and more solid design Here is a pic of the 2 side by side. Fabia then Octy Here is a link to the VW site for more info and some alternative bushes to consider like the Leon Cupra R one although is very similar to the Fabia VRS one. http://uk-mkivs.net/...spx?PageIndex=2 So here Goes. The route I took was to jack car up and support both sides on axle stands (my axle stands have groove's in for the sills so could support on the still no worries) I think I followed the manual to a certain extent but I did one side at a time, so I did not completely remove beam, Thought I would show just how low the front end is with the back end jacked up. (Like a hover) Here is the axle bush and bolt shown that will be removed Support the beam on the side you are working on with a trolley jack Remove the lower shock bolt/nut (these will be replaced with p/n listed above) note I have a Whiteline RARB so that box bracket needs to be removed also. Now I unclipped Rear handbrake cable from it’s position on the beam. I then unclipped the metal brake line that is fitted into plastic clips along the Rear beam to brake caliper, and then I prized off the brake line seating clip on the bracket that sits on the front of the beam, and used a hacksaw to carefully cut a slit through the bracket and bent it outwards slightly to allow the metal brake pipe to be moved out of the bracket so not to be strained when beam is lowered. This method stops the need to re bleed system. Pic shown of bracket. With the lower shock bolts removed then undid the axle bush bolt/nut and removed them I lowered one side of beam on trolley jack which gives enough room to get to the bush. (checking any restrictions like brake lines were not being strained) Pic shows the metal brake line out of it’s clips and the axle bush exposed Drill out the rubber section in the old bush. I found gradually drilling these out and then whacking out the centre piece the best way after trying other options. Most of the VRS bushes are plastic sleeved so once the centre bit is out you can wedge a flat screwdriver between the sleeve and axle lip and tap it through this will collapse the sleeve and make it easier to knock out Old section of bush and sleeve removed Bush housing aperture cleaned up and greased ready for new bush. DIY install tool that is now needed The new bush ( I used a Fabia VRS one which is the same style as the LCR and ICR) they are different part number and prices. As the golf forums are all using the fabia VRS ones I went with this. The standard Octy VRS bush is the same as the Golf ones that I checked out and there is a obvious difference between them and the Fabia ,LCR and ICR Bush. You can follow the link post above to see the options and description on the available bushes. Also in page 4 of that link below it is CRUCIAL that you fit the bushes in the correct way. From inside of the beam outwards and the correct orientation of the bush inside the beam aperture. see here: http://uk-mkivs.net/...spx?PageIndex=4 The bushes were not going to go in without that DIY tool not in a million years. It is crucial to get the bush in centrally which took me a few goes of tightening it , undoing it and tapping it central and then once central the bush started to wind in. Used lots of grease to line the axle bush aperture and then lots of WD40 on the bush going in. Then when i reached the end on the DIY tool ( approx 30mm ) hammered home the rest of the bush to close the gap Pic show the bush and install tool set and ready to tighten up to wind bush into slot bush slowly going in Fully home Note the correct orientation of the bush(key slots) in the axle Beam repositioned and new Bolt/nut fitted. (torque 33lbs, then turned further90’) Refit Lower shock with new bolt/nut( torque 44lbs although I ended up a little less as thought bolt would snap, checked and correct to manual, but seems too high to me?) Refit the brake lines to there position and hand brake cables and job done. Whilst car was in the air, the Rear springs, RARB and shock's got a good clean and the Rear beam a scrape and waxoyl. Well was the hard work worth it I should say, as the car feels more planted and having had a few brisk runs no more banging and loose feel. Hope this helps folks