Leaderboard

I've done some digging! I've managed to track down the original owners - a taxi company in Staffs... They traded it in somewhere (they're going to check and phone me back) in September and it ended up at an independent car dealer in W. Yorkshire. They sold it in November with 148k on the clock - which they have confirmed to me on the phone (and I have a recording). They can't tell me who they sold it to, but I suspect it was the trader I bought it from and I suspect it was this trader that did the clocking. Overall I have a good trail of where the car has been and I have some documents and photos to prove it. Could be a very interesting conversation tomorrow when I present the evidence to them!

I have heard of people using pressure washers on a engine bay but its not something I would recommend at all... Far safer method is to get some decent APC/Degreaser, a brush, a couple of old MF towels and a trim dressing. Start from the out side and liberally spray APC on all the surfaces and allow to dwell for a couple of minutes, then agitate using a soft detailing brush then rinse with the open end of the hose, repeat if required then dry using the MF towels. Dress all the clean plastics and if you feel the need polish the jubilee clips etc, job done. Not a Skoda but a recent one which was proper minging

@Dr Zoidberg This is sfw

I figured I would get started on a topic for this thing for anyone interested in following along. At the end of November last year, I decided to have my midlife crisis at the age of 23 and decided to ask a good friend of mine (thanks @BJB540) to take me to Bourne to have a look at a Fabia Saloon of unknown spec, I have always wanted one of these since I first saw one on the road a few years ago. For those interested, here is the original for sale ad - https://www.windmillmotorsltd.co.uk/used-cars-bourne/SKODA-FABIA-16V-MK1-006442?fromsearch= The good bits - For those who looked at the link above, in pictures the car looked excellent for the condition and a low mileage car too (clocked over to 74k as I rolled out the garage) with just "1" owner since new (technically 2 owners, but it turns out if you work in the motor trade, you aren't included on the v5 or as a previous owner) After doing my research before buying the car, I had decided it had the engine for me, the 1.4 16v 100hp engine, a nice bit of power, cheap to insure and the more reliable and trouble free 16v variant It's had a new passenger front window regulator I got an MOT, cambelt and full service for just £300 before buying the car I managed to get a little money off the asking price It's rust free (with exception to a small patch on the drivers rear arch) The bad bits - There was damage to the passenger front door (a nice big patch of touch up), a small bit of touch up by the drivers rear light cluster, a small dent by the passenger rear panel, 2 small dents in the roof (it looks as though it went through a car wash with the aerial on) It has a fair few scratches about the place (hoping @austenw90 will be kind enough to work some magic on the car) The front door trims were falling to pieces and the drivers seat had a hole that at some point had duct tape over it as well as the rear boot floor falling to pieces The door seals were leaking (this was first on the to do list so that's sorted) The coolant is leaking from the bottle or the pipe at the outlet The passenger window switch is a little dodgy and broken, it goes up and down, but not automatically. It had no history, nothing, zip, nada, but I took a chance on the basis it had been owned by someone in the trade up until 2011 and then an older couple up until the middle of last year, I was able to get a little history with a few phone calls so I know the rear drums are a few thousand miles old. Here's a picture from the day I picked it up - And here's currently what has been done - The leaky door seals Stealthy aux cable install OEM Armrest Front cupholder Front and rear dashcam Autolock and unlock With a few pictures to follow - Plans for the future are to work on the things that are wrong with it, nothing crazy for now, sorting the most problematic issues first, replace the wheels with something OEM, replace the mirrors for electric and get the door handles/mirrors colour matched. There are probably cheaper better examples out there, but I decided this would be the one, something to work on around working on the Citigo.

Just picked this up on the BBC news page. Hardy surprising since Skoda discontinued the Yeti.

Having no load lip is the bit that matters, I can slide the buggy in then, without dropping it over the lip. If ever I want a bigger boot, I can lower the floor, and when I do I’ll have a floor that’s a decent thickness, not the cheap thin one the car comes with as standard. Also makes life easier with other everyday things and brings the floor height level with the rear seats when folded down. Also means there’s somewhere to store the parcel shelf and my work hi-vis, tools, bits and bobs that I don’t want to have rolling round the boot. Also Skoda said it couldn’t be done, so I had to prove them wrong!

'Poultry scandal strikes again at 2 Sisters sites'. or just check out any fresh meat production scandals and frauds that are rather common in the British Isles. I do miss my horse meat beef burgers. Being in the EU is not that much of a guarantee for public food safety in the UK.

Given time I might have done this, but it’s off at 8:00 tomorrow and it’ll be a long enough task tonight just mucking out the interior, removing the dashcam and retrieving my CDs!

Well folks, this gets stranger and stranger! Thanks to a site called cazana.com I was able to check the history of when it was last sold to a new owner. At that time it was £8,995 and it had done 149,000 miles. That was in October! Between then and mid-December it gained nearly £3k in price and lost a little under 100,000 miles. It's been clocked! How convenient that it hasn't had its first MOT yet and there's no MOT history. Suffice to say, I will be getting some advice on how to proceed with this, legally. But at least it shows the DPF's "age" is about right for the correct mileage!

There is absolutely no resistance from the 4x4 system it doesn't work like that in this car it is not a constant 4x4 like SUVs.... It is more than likely the rear pads are partially seized in the carriers giving you the feeling of handbrake being on if it has been laying around for a few weeks(Months) not getting run. Look up Haldex 4 system its a on demand 4x4 Bit from Skoda about it The advanced four-wheel drive system is designed to tackle those challenging conditions that would leave two-wheel drive competitors stranded. Power distribution is controlled electronically by a fourth-generation Haldex clutch. Under normal traction conditions, 96% of the total power is directed to the front axle. In adverse weather conditions – similar to those experienced in the UK last winter – the Haldex system reacts in a split second to redirect power to those wheels with better traction, greatly increasing driving safety.

I did mine few days ago... previous owner did’t have OCD like i do... Few brushes, APC and pressure washer Only cover ECU and fusebox...

You may have already got the car, but I'll toss out my short list. If you are looking at one with the panoramic sun roof, look around the drivers foot well and passenger foot well for signs of water leaks. These roofs can be a major headache. If it has the optional removable tow hook, make sure it fits properly. Mine didnt. Of course, all the usual stuff.. Take rubber gloves. After the drive, pop the hood and check under the oil cap for any signs of water mixed with the oil. Check around with torch for signs of fluid leaks. Check under the car for rust. Check for crushed pinch weld seems near the jack points. Check in spare tire well for rust.

Just got my weekly update from Skoda (Following the complaint I made) been informed my unconfirmed build week have moved from 17 to 4. Finally some good news. Apparently this will turn into a 'confirmed build week' after the 18th of this month.

Im 11mins early, but not if going by CET.. Im eating toast, in the kitchen, listening to the not quite 3 yr old sing himself a made up song to go back asleep after waking up for a wee. The lyrics of his song - "Mama, i need to make a banana. Put in the microwave just 2minutes... Baaanaanaaaaa......" Reckon it could be a christmas no.1! No snow in Ireland atm Rob, just drizzle, wind and flu blowing around...

To late...

Here’s my new ‘en’

What about changing job instead, to somewhere that has fewer fashion victims?

http://www.evo.co.uk/skoda/fabia-vrs Buy used?

Following info. from Skoda, VW, Haynes, Pioneer, and personal experience! Use this as a guide only!! There are two main DIN/ISO plugs on the OEM wiring loom for the stereo head unit, one has all the wiring for the speakers (Brown coloured and has the release clip in the centre of the side), the other all the power and control wiring (Black coloured and has the release clip offset on the side). Both of these conectors might be joined together, and just slid apart to seperate! There is also a third block (If you are luck enough to have it) which is for connecting the head unit to the OEM CD multi-player under the passenger seat. THESE ARE THE COLOURS & PINS OF THE OEM SKODA WIRING LOOM TO CONNECT TO THE STEREO HEAD-UNIT BLACK CONNECTOR (this has the release clip offset on the side) 8d/pin1 = White cable with Purple stripe = vehicle speed sensor (to increase volume with speed) OEM single DIN head-unit may not have a pin for this. (Pin function is correct with ISO) 8d/pin2 = vacant (This according to ISO is for the mute function of a connected telephone) 8d/pin3 = Grey cable with White stripe = VAG diagnostics through EOBD socket (DO NOT USE WITH NON OEM as 12v and can muck up your new head unit, especially if a diagnostic tool is connected!!! So disconnect from plug or cut and seal live end of wire) (This according to ISO is for the reversing light signal) 8d/pin4 = Brown cable with Red stripe = 12v switched supply with ignition (This according to ISO is for a 12v constant supply) 8d/pin5 = Black cable with Blue stripe = 12v constant supply to battery via Fuse No. 45 (20A) OEM single DIN head-unit does not have a pin for this, as this is to provide additional power for double DIN satnav unit. (This has on other VAG cars been a Brown cable with Red stripe = 12v switched supply with ignition) (This according to ISO is for the electric retractable aerial) 8d/pin6 = Grey cable with Blue stripe = dashboard illumination (Pin function is correct with ISO) 8d/pin7 = Black cable with Blue stripe = 12v constant supply to battery via Fuse No. 45 (20A). (This has on other VAG cars been a Red cable = 12v constant supply to battery via fuse No. ??) (This according to ISO is for a 12v switched supply with ignition) 8d/pin8 = Brown = Earth to E3 earthing point (Under the centre console in front of the gearstick) (Pin function is correct with ISO) BROWN CONNECTOR (this has the release clip in the centre of the side) All of these pin functions are correct with ISO. 8n/pin1 = Red cable with Green stripe = Rear deck drivers side bass speaker pin1 (+) (Red cable with Green stripe from this to tweeter in rear door) 8n/pin2 = Brown cable with green stripe = Rear deck drivers side bass speaker pin2 (-) (Brown cable with White stripe from this to tweeter in rear door) 8n/pin3 = Red cable no stripe = Front drivers door bass speaker pin3 (+) (Red cable no stripe from this to tweeter in rear door) 8n/pin4 = Brown cable with Red stripe = Front drivers door bass speaker pin1 (-) (Brown cable with Red stripe from this to tweeter in rear door) 8n/pin5 = Blue cable no stripe = Front passenger door bass speaker pin3 (+) (Blue cable no stripe from this to tweeter in door) 8n/pin6 = Brown cable with Blue stripe = Front passenger door bass speaker pin1 (-) (Brown cable with Blue stripe from this to tweeter in door) 8n/pin7 = Blue cable with White stripe = Rear deck passenger side bass speaker pin1 (+) (Blue cable with White stripe from this to tweeter in door) 8n/pin8 = Brown cable with White stripe = Rear deck passenger side bass speaker pin2 (-) (Brown cable with White stripe from this to tweeter in door) OEM CD CHANGER UNDER PASSENGER SEAT WIRING Pin3 on the CD Changer = Brown cable = Earth to E3 earthing point (Under the centre console in front of the gearstick). Connector C3 on the back of the stereo headunit (smaller then the other two above) 20a/pin13 = Blue cable to pin 1 on CD Changer (CDC data in, according to ISO) 20a/pin14 = Green cable to pin 4 on CD Changer (CDC data out, according to ISO) 20a/pin15 = Yellow cable to pin 2 on CD Changer (+12v permanent, according to ISO) 20a/pin16 = Red cable to pin 6 on CD Changer (+12v switched - maximum 300mA, according to ISO) 20a/pin17 = Grey cable to pin 8 on CD Changer (CDC data ground, according to ISO) 20a/pin18 = Brown cable to pin 9 on CD Changer (audio frequency ground, according to ISO) 20a/pin19 = Purple cable to pin 10 on CD Changer (CDC audio frequency left channel, according to ISO) 20a/pin20 = White cable to pin 7 on CD Changer (CDC audio frequency right channel, according to ISO) Cables from pins 18, 19, 20 should be all wrapped together in a metal foil screen. Or they are 3 cores of a screened cable. You might also need an adaptor to connect your new headunit to the OEM ariel plug. The OEM plug is a right angled male, with the OEM head unit a "projecting" female. Most after-market head units have a "recessed" female socket, so an extender plug/adaptor (ISO/DIN) may be required, which can be easily found in Halfords, etc. If any of the wires need "moving" then use the new wiring adaptor harness supplied with most good new headunits. If none supplied then Halfords etc. do adaptor harness (ISO to VAG) and then move the wires around on this (usually the switched and permanent 12v which on the supplied HI-FI loom is usually the red & yellow wires!) FOR FABIA MKI Also to fit an aftermarket DIN head unit you will need a cover trim piece to fit above the now exposed space above the head unit (under the row of aux. buttons on dash). This is a cheap piece (£3 ish!!) code no 6Y0 857 231 B41 from your local Skoda dealer. FOR FABIA MKII Also to fit an aftermarket single DIN head unit you will need a surround trim including a lower cubby hole as OEM headunit is a double DIN unit. This costs about £35ish from your local Skoda dealer code no. AZO 700 001 BASIC SPEC FABIA MKII Some of these might not have a double DIN slot as the centre part of the dash is slightly different and you end up having a 1+ DIN size slot, so a larger facia cover piece is required. Not seen a Skoda one yet but try this; http://www.superskod...e-martinek-auto NEW SKODA WIRING LOOM KIT FOR NON-OEM FIT STEREOS Part Number: AZA700001A. Suitable For: Fabia MKII This kit provides the required cables and wire harnesses to sync it to the cars systems. The kit contains: Interconnecting cable harness x1, Anti-noise screen x1, Fuse 7,5A x1, Fastening tape x5, Auxiliary terminal board (socket type)x1. RRP: £29.00 http://www.accessori...p_no=AZA700001A EDIT Pins 3,4 & 7,8 were allocated to the wrong speakers, double checked with Skoda, Kenwood, Pioneer etc. all OK now!!! CD info added.

Echo what Fab said about chains and ground anchor. Covers can create a condensation under them so make sure it has a proper covering of ACF50 including the electrics and connectors. If you’re not going to use the bike over longer periods then just remove the battery.

They don’t, they decide to have a better boot.

What am I missing here? At what point does anyone decide they need a smaller boot?

D M Kieth York ?

I used to work for a company that operated the effluent plant at a 2Sisters chicken slaughter house in Suffolk. All I will say is I’m so glad I don’t now. I dreaded everyday turning up to that place and being hassled by local council, EA and / or reporters from the local press etc because of another **** up by them and they expected us to pull rabbits out of a hat, or more accurately various bits of chicken anatomy out of a stream.

Best to sort the current problem before thinking of brake upgrade. Eezibleed is great for steady volume of fluid but its relatively slow speed/low pressure and can be poor at shifting some air locks. Pedal action is much more vigorous in shifting airlocks. You can run the eezibleed and add in a few strong pumps of the pedal at the same time. This can work well if its just air in high pipe loops. Don't let the reservoir run dry. Never had a problem with the brakes on daughters 1.4 DOHC. Brakes are fierce as standard. Using mintex discs and pads.

Well my car is now at the dealer came today.

There's a 1983 sci-fi film of which I am a serious fan, called Spacehunter: Adventures In The Forbidden Zone. It actually has a plethora of now big-name talent, in both the cast members and the production crews, who since went on to be responsible for some of the biggest films in modern history! But in this flick, the main hero bimbles about this distant alien planet (which looks exactly like Moab, Utah) in a thing he calls a Scrambler. It's a 4x4 in a sort of Mad Max junk style, with slide-back roof, big WW2 style balloon-ish tyres and a hexagonal turret on the back with a rocket launcher on it. It later resurfaced in a few episodes of Knight Rider, heavly remodelled, as one of the more memorable KITT's Nemesis type villain-vehicles. It was actually built on a 1982 Dodge Ram pickup frame. If ever I become stupidly rich, I will have my own replica built for me, as it always looked so cool when I was young... well, younger, anyway. The film is also notable for other vehicles like the big-ass tractor-thing with a gigantic plough on the front, the pair of motorcycles with massive roll cages and rotary rocket launchers, the Sail-Train which is basically a moving set-piece for one scene... and for the rather cool use of stunt hang-gliders with skilled pilots, to kidnap sexy Earth girls so teh hero has someone to go rescue!!

Nicely done.

I take your point Jon, towbars aren't cheap. I fitted and wired mine myself on the Vectra, but it cost me two days of time (I'm a perfectionist and I did a full 'caravan' wiring job so lots to do). The (fixed) bar was £120 and the wiring about another £100, but you can get a 'trailer only' wiring kit for about £25. still a wedge and you've got to be able to do it and have the right tools, which luckily i have. The Superb we have on order we specified the towbar as although its £765 it includes other upgrades to cooling and charging, and an aftermarket removable one fitted, with the correct Skoda electronics, is about £500 anyway. If you ever do get a towbar, this is the rack I have and it is really rather good. It tilts so you can get in the boot and folds up reasonably small for storage. https://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/rbvehsel4_tab.php/car-accessories/buzz_rack_buzzwing_4_bike_tilting_and_folding_rack_brp704/njNA_v3iZbYo

In December, I had my vRS serviced. During the service, the garage carried out Service Campaign 34F7. When I got the car back, I was aware that gear changes were not as they had been before the service but put it down to the ECU having been reset and its "re-learning" my driving style. A day or two before Christmas, the car became positively dangerous. When moving off on roundabouts or at a road junction, the car would "hesitate" and then lurch forward violently - the first time it happened I thought someone had rear-ended me. When moving, the gear changes happened normally. The Orange "engine" light came on but the car did not go into limp mode I returned the car to the garage, they diagnosed a faulty sensor and charged me over £200 to replace it. Personally, I believe that while servicing the car they broke the sensor or failed to reconnect it properly - I have no way of proving this. I will not be using a "Skoda Approved Dealership" again in a hurry - I can take my own tea or coffee in a flask.

The Skoda garage I visited told me that 80g of ash is game over - new DPF. They also confirmed that the figures reported on the VAG DPF app are very accurate - same as the official diag tools. They reckon the usual lifespan of a DPF on a Mk3 TDI is about 150k-200k. Depends on a lot of factors though!

Sawtoothed rear tyres? Drefaldwyn

I know, but I have a high pedantry threshold which can't be turned off.

If Haymarket Media Group / Autocar /What Car / Pistonheads publish wrong numbers then TESLA will know how to have them correct articles with the true figures and information, i imagine they have a number for them, or maybe an Email address. http://nextgreencar.com/electric-cars/statistics

I think quite the opposite. Sedan looks horrible with roof racks (if it matters), while on estate you almost cant spot them.

354 now...

Feel your pain... Stuck for 7miles behind 2cars - 2artics - a van - and leading the procession...a tractor doing 35miles an hr with a probably overloaded trailer of silage bales. Several spots he couldve pulled but wouldnt..

You actually gonna use it on track?

Dont do it. It’s not a VRS

I had same problem last week,oil sensor workshop,also no oil temperature reading on mfd,put car into local garage and diagnostics said oil level sensor (oil checked and level fine) garage changed sensor and all was well (or so I thought) as when bonnet was opened to check oil level it then resets fault (but only for a few miles) when bonnet is closed again. Oil sensor workshop and yellow oil can flashing again but went off when car underway. Went back to garage and oil sensor fault came up on diagnostics again. There is an Indy auto electrician (and a very good one) in garage and he found that 2 wires had corroded in loom situated between crossmember and steering rack, the loom and wires had been chaffing against crossmember and he said that should not have happened to a 2 year old car (out of warranty as taxi and 70k on clock. Anyway he reckoned that I wasted £90 on sensor and fitting as fault was electrical all along. All is well now and oil temperature reading is also back on mfd,I hope this info helps as last week I trawled all forums for an answer to this problem.

Good point, cheers, didn't realise it was new android version

I hear that top of the list of police car requirements is “How does it look”. Schools are back next week, right?

Hello Sheb welcome to the Skoda forum good to have you with us great write up , that what the forum here for to help other Skoda enthusiast .

i have business grey, but with 19" phoenix wheels - not 19" acamar. we don't get this choice here in aus.

Had this nearly a year, just got round to posting the image. 280 L&K Jungle Green with beige leather. Haven't seen another Superb in Jungle Green yet, but plenty of Yetis in the same shade.

I remember lusting after the road going Lancia Intergrowler many years ago and reading a review on it that said it even had an oil cooler on the power steering, just because they needed to homolgate one for the rally car. I got to drive one eventually This one in fact

One I took on a walkabout in Lincoln Bay New Jersey Chill out zone by Eugene O'Connor, on Flickr

Hydra is now officially dead, a Cat s, may be turned into a hill climb or rally car, watch this space but the Hydra name lives on, in the new Superb Hydra ii

2002 vrs with 190k+ miles on it. Never missed a beat as long as I have it, sailed through the nct (mot) last week. Decided to get a little more power out of it. Brought it to Joe Power here in Ireland who is an absolute gentleman I should add. Pipercross replacement filter Forge recirculating dv Slightly larger SMIC with a vented wing thingy lol so a standard car really is what I told Joe. Result from today is fuel pump let me down joe left it at about 200bhp with 40 more ft/lbs but said there’s plenty more there!!! Just ordered a Sytec pump and once fitted Joe made me a fantastic offer to tweak it fully afterwards so I’ll be back to him after Christmas.

Have you tried a VW dealer to see if they do the same part? They may provide buttons where Skoda do not! Might be harder to fit then you think though.