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  • Popular Contributors

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    • Hi all,   We currently have a 2012 Superb Hatchback and I am needing to move to a bigger/taller boot to accommodate a mobility scooter and lift, as well as the rest of life's necessities with 2 pre-teen children and a husband. We travel a lot and often fill the boot of our superb and a roof box without a scooter so I'm concerned about ensuring we have the boot space to accommodate using a scooter and lift whilst still having cases and luggage remaining in place. We also have a trailer (hopefully soon to be a caravan!) so will require a trailer.  Any images and advice would be greatly appreciated! We love our Superb and would like to stay with a Skoda but it really depends on the above.   Thank you in advance!
    • Actually plus another £2 to get to 98%>. 
    • Dear Forum members,   I have a peculiar problem with my 2015 Skoda Octavia Combi (CZDA 1.4 TSI engine, 150 hp). When I use it for my daily commute (about 20 km both ways) it returns a nice 5,5 liters/100 kilometers (around 44 mpg) on country roads, but when I go on the motorway, it's appalling to be honest. I remember when I bought it setting the cruise control to either 140 or 150 km/h and it returned around 6,2-6,4 liters/100 kilometers (36-37 mpg), but in recent memory that would go as low/high (depending if mpg or liters/100 kilometers) as 8,8-5 liters/100 kilometers (27-29mpg) and I have no idea why. It was in my experience a gradual process so I can't really tie it to any of the services done on the car. It has done 210k kilometers, the cambelt was changed 2 years ago, oil change services done in 10k intervals, there are no fault codes to read, and if I notice something unusual I go to get the car serviced, so I have no idea. Also the inlet valves were cleaned with walnut a year ago so it should be okay. Is there any more common issues I can try to ask my mechanic to check if it is the cause of the high fuel consumption?   Edit: all 4 glow plugs have been replaced in due time and I only fill the car with 100 octane petrol.   Thanks in advance!   Cheers,   Balázs
    • Just for info, you may already know and have done but in case not.   "In order to achieve flawless measuring results, the engine should be kept at a speed of approx. 2,500 rpm. This ensures that the operating temperature of the probe is reached, even in systems with an unheated lambda sensor. If the exhaust gas temperature is not sufficient in idle mode, there is a risk that the unheated probe cools down and a signal is no longer generated." - https://www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Sensors-and-actuators/Test-lambda-sensor-4379/#     "Narrowband sensors (zirconia and titania), especially pre-catalytic converter, are tough to test with a multimeter.  Multimeters do not respond fast enough to catch a narrowband sensor’s rapidly changing output." "3. Connect the multimeter to the heater’s power wires or contacts.  Back-probes are the best tool for this. If you do not have access to back-probes, it may be easiest to connect the multimeter to the power lines by disconnecting the oxygen sensor from its harness, and connecting the multimeter to the connector.  You should read the engine service manual to learn what you can and cannot do here." - https://gtc.ca/blog/testing-oxygen-sensors/  
    • Thanks @petrolcan. I hadn't actually looked at W rated tyres due to the car being supplied with Y rated tyres. I wasn't sure if there was a potential insurance if I fitted tyres at a speed rating lower than was originally supplied by the manufacturer? Admittedly I think the chances of me getting my 1.5 SE L to 168mph are pretty slim!
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