JGrindel
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Posts posted by JGrindel
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To remove the whole headlight is a full bumper-off job so no point in doing that.
The access panel in the wheel arch makes the job super easy, however, I have small hands. (this is how I did it on our old SE Fab) - use the ring pull from your spare wheel kit to remove the cap.
If you fit poor/cheap CanBus LED bulbs it will throw an error due to the lower resistance LED bulbs have. You can change the coding for the car to accept LED bulbs so it won't throw an error code but I haven't tried this on the mk3 DRL just number plate lights for older gen Skoda's which didn't come with LED from the factory.
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remove the canter console to gain access to the hand break gaiter itself. Then you can remove the gaiter that way.
I may be wrong as never done it on a mk3.
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22 hours ago, gfejervary said:
Hi! Trying to remove my door panel, kid dropped in a coin through the window slit. Now the coin rolls back and forth every acceleration and deceleration inside the door - drives me crazy but not really something I want to spend on.
@JGrindelDo you by any chance have the schematic for the Fabia mk3 rear doors too? Or is the front door scheme not that different?
Hi, that sounds like a really annoying situation to be in.
If its gone in via the window it will be behind the mech unit and will need more than just removing the door card to get access. But see the photos behind for removing the rear door. I have attached a PDF on how to remove.
Good luck
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On 17/11/2022 at 22:15, nj3turbo said:
Hello dear ones,
is there a possibility for the rear windshield water pump to disable or code out with VCDS or OBD11?
I catch myself again and again that I want to use the rear windshield washer. But there is no wiper more there.
For any tips I am very grateful!Until then....
The front and rear washers use the same pump so coding the pump out is not going to achieve what you need although the mk3 jet is on the rear light so even if you accidently use it youre not going to damage anything just have water sprayed onto the rear window...
I will have a look on the coding side and see if there is anything you can do to turn off rear washer via the bcm and not the motor itself, not sure if its doable though. Will have a look today for you
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18 hours ago, Eccles said:
Why does no other manufacturer that I know of suggest a cam belt change at five years????? E.G:-
Ford Model
Cambelt Change Intervals
Ford B-Max Cambelt Change Every 150,000 miles or 10 years Ford C-Max Cambelt Change Every 150,000 miles or 10 years Ford Ecosport Cambelt Change Every 150,000 miles or 10 years Ford Edge Cambelt Change Every 125,000 miles or 10 years Ford Edge Vignale Cambelt Change Every 125,000 miles or 10 years Ford Explorer Cambelt Change Every 150,000 miles or 12 years Ford Fiesta Cambelt Change Every 144,000 miles or 10 years Ford Fiesta Vignale Cambelt Change Every 144,000 miles or 10 years Ford Focus Cambelt Change Every 144,000 miles or 10 years I wouldn't use ford as a good example of what to do... their new 1.0 3cyl EcoBoost engines and even diesels are apparently 150k miles or 10 years... but they are barely getting to 4 years before the belts are disintegrating and blowing the engine.
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AVOID THE MPI. Its a useless engine for modern driving. Slow, non turbo, you will get frustrated.
On the other hand, the Fabia is a great car to learn in, its got good visibility, good light driving (steering, clutch, gears etc) and very safe.
I personally prefer the 1.2tsi over the 1.0tsi due to the fact its 4 cyl not 3. With the 3 once you load the car up it does require a good amount of revs and gear changes to get it going. This is the engine to go for if looking at the 16/17 plate.
Both tsi engines are cambelts due at 5 years but the cost to replace is around £300 so factor that into your buying if not done yet.
The radios support car play / android auto (the must have) but this is an optional extra on some models and could need turning on at the dealer for £150 so again make sure it has this activated and if not its a haggling point for you.
If I was in your shoes and having to drive it myself then have your daughter drive, I would aim for a colour edition 1.2tsi early 17 (We just sold one of ours as we had two) great little car with nice stylish looks and the kit you mentioned. Plus cruise control, limiter (great for 30mph city's and towns you're unsure off so you don't accidently speed) Just have a look at the lower control arms when buying as these like to fail around the 25-35k mark, not expensive to replace (I did mine on the driveway at home for £30 a corner) but worth checking.
I have done 35k in my 1.2tsi 17 since 2020 and its not missed a beat.
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There is no mileage recommendation on these belts, just every 5 years. This is from Skoda UK! . Its a £300 job by your independent. The water pump is not part of the change due to it being on the opposite side of the engine and run on its own belt.
I wouldn't worry unless its at its 5/6 year point. I am doing mine next week (1.2tsi 2017, 63k 5 Year old) as I do around 14-15k a year and for £300 its piece of mind and makes selling the car easier when that comes.
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OBDEleven is a great app. BUT I have had to help uncode someone's car who changed stuff willy nilly and caused issues. If youre new to coding get Carista. If you want to try and go more in-depth and want to retrofit stuff. OBDEleven is great, but it is VERY expensive if you only use it for yourself.
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11 minutes ago, Baxlin said:
I agree, use the camera along with the mirrors, but my (AliExpress) aftermarket jobbie has distance and direction markings. I spent a few minutes checking after I’d first installed it, which means that I can judge distance very accurately.
The lines are really helpful once you've got used to them!
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On 22/04/2022 at 13:50, KenONeill said:
You do realise that a fisheye lens does't give a true sense of distance to the subject?
When using a camera its not recommended to use only the camera, mirrors are still needed. But fish eye lenses for reversing cameras is 100% needed as it gives you full picture from left to right of the car, I use mine A LOT for that extra point of vision. But being a camera, fish eye or not its helpful when reversing up to cars or walls and you want to visually see the distance from the rear to the car/wall.
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Don't go for wireless cameras as they can be interrupted by the cars FM and DAB antennas, nor would I recommend removing the LED number plate lights and fitting non genuine ones which could cause bulb errors.
I have installed reversing cameras into Fabias for a while now and the one I use it this, its an OEM Style camera. The ones I have gotten have Skoda written on them, and the wiring is perfect. Only have to adjust the lengths where needed. - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32967087437.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.6c1b5c5f3jjPLD&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
The guide I followed was from Wirer - https://wirer.sk/f3_rear-camera/
You will need to be willing to pull trim panels off so a good set of trim removal tools is a wise purchase, along with radio keys, and torx screwdrivers.
After fitting you will need a garage to code the Infotainment module of your car to tell it the camera is there.
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Keep going at them! If not got to another dealer and ask, I have 4 to choose from within a 30 mile radius of me but I understand not everyone is so lucky.
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Awesome mileage!!
I have a 1.2tsi 90 5 speed, I have done this a few times now but you can easily get around 580miles out of a tank on motorway drives, but I use Fuely to track my mpg's. Best I have gotten is 59.4mpg over 588 miles.
Very economical engines and this is driving at 70 on cruise. If I drove at 60 etc I could probably get more out of it!
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13 hours ago, VolvoSaab said:
I think I [already previously] have, but I will revisit it, in case I might have missed anything/something.
[From memory I didn't/couldn't find anything related to my points 1, 3, and 4...]
I can try add those options to the coding if I find out how to do them. The second fog light is a wiring issue and not wired in from what I can tell. tried coding it but not really gone too in-depth into it. I tried coding options found on the octavia but not translating to fabia.
I will have a look this eve for you
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On 16/04/2022 at 14:30, Cocain said:
Climatic switch only works on 4 and you sorted it out, does that mean you changed the resistor? And if so you may have disconnected the passenger air bag to get to it? If this is the case then it needs to be reset with VCDS as the ECU will store a fault code.
Exactly my thoughts. Pas airbag needs to be removed to access, if they did not disconnect the battery before hand it will have logged a code. Will need code erased by scanner.
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Common issue. Mine was like that for about 2 years but never caused rough idle. Replaced with new OEM and sound stopped but never noticed a difference.
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On 16/04/2022 at 19:54, JPW2010 said:
Need help diagnosing this. Cold idle is smooth. Warm idle is jumpy. Car drives great. Getting 70 mpg average on run from Cardiff to Bangor. If o apply slight touch to accelerator the lumpiness stops.
My old 1.6tdi used to do this. Put some good quality fuel in it ie Shell v-power (£20) then rag it to clear out the crap and then run normal shell diesel with every 4th fill up v power. These 1.6tdi's dont like cheap supermarket fuel. Never had an issue after switching.
The rough idle was back in 2015 when I got the car and never was an issue again and I sold it in 2020 and 85k.
BUT dont forget that you have a DPF which will go into regen and that will raise the RPM to 1000 and can cause a jolty idle as a result. You can invest in a cheap OBD2 scanner called Carista which allows you to see the level of soot within the DPF.
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On 16/04/2022 at 21:48, SkodaShef said:
I need to buy Roof clamps for my Skoda fabia. I'm hoping to save some money by getting the exodus version rather than Thule. Does anyone know the code for the set I need please? FP???
Are you looking for the footpack for a hatchback with clamp or estate with raised rails? Also do you have a panoramic roof?
Thule, Exodus and Halfords Advanced are ALL Thule products. If you open the flap on the exodus/H Advanced footpack it has Thule stamped into the plastic (I used to work there)
The exodus and h advanced products are just the previous generation of Thule bars. Thule is obviously the latest gen.
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This is standard on all cars... Its a system check and since the engine isn't running it cant do a full check of the engine and exhaust sensors. Once running they go out unless the system finds a fault.
The Airbag / SRS light is the same, it illuminates while testing the system and goes off once complete, unless again a fault is found and it stays on.
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11 hours ago, CReese123 said:
Hi all, Anyone know the location of the cat converter? I've traced it from the tailpipe to what I believe is the egr cooler and cannot see it. Is it right behind the engine or something? Had recent custom exhaust work done so want to make sure this has been left untouched and unaffected as originally assured.
Thanks
If it had been tampered with you'd know. Louder exhaust note and secondly a warning light on the dash.
You will have two large boxes on your exhaust, CAT and DPF. I am not sure of which way round they are on the mk3 as no longer own a diesel but I would suspect its, Turbo - CAT - DPF - Rear Silencer.
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14 hours ago, benjacontreras said:
I really dont know what to do! My new head unit is awesome but I just can’t get the original microphone work. Im quite lost of how to get this done
As I stated in your original post you cant use the original mic. You need to wire in an aftermarket mic that plugs into lead no.9 mic input on the wiring diagram.
I cant tell from the photo if the mic is a 2.5mm or a 3.5mm audio jack but if you can plug an aux / headphones into the no.9 plug it'll be a 3.5.
You will need to order one of these. - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32868201267.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.61183addcniB9L&algo_pvid=ff1eb2d0-261c-492e-a67a-66dcca6064e5&algo_exp_id=ff1eb2d0-261c-492e-a67a-66dcca6064e5-1&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"65567372809"}&pdp_pi=-1%3B1.37%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BGBP%3Bsearch-mainSearch
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Doesnt look like it! You will need to get what I can see is a 2.5mm or 3.5mm microphone and you can then wire it up into the same hole in the interior light as the skoda mic. I did this on an old mk1 fab.
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20 minutes ago, ohnoes said:
Well I took it to Skoda dealer who couldn't care less and told me:
1. Can't find an issue
2. If the issue exists it needs a gearbox teardown
Took it to a good local garage who diagnosed it as a bent selector arm, all fixed and back to normal now. Happy days.
Remember dealers are just fitters.
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Hill Hold Assist - VCDS Activation (Out of Range)
in Skoda Fabia Mk III (2014-2021)
Posted
there is a pinned post on the mk3 page with all the adaptations you can do. In there is the hill hold activation.
HILL HOLD CONTROL
- ECU03 (Brakes)
- Coding
- Byte 22
- Bit 0: enabled (Default: disabled)
***Activating this will cause the car to throw a few errors, turn car ignition off, remove key, then re insert the key and turn the ignition back on. You will see the errors are no longer there. If they remain, reverse the coding to deactivate Hill Hold***