nta16

Don't think of it as a "spare" key but the second key. Alternate the use of the two keys in whatever way suits you, that way you know they both work and state of remote battery and where to find the second key (but you knew that, many don't hence only one key with s/h cars). Do bear in mind that an MoT pass and advisories are only the car has meet the minimum statutory requirement to one (hopefully trained?) person's opinion at one point in time only it doesn't mean the car is as good as it could or should be or that work may not be required perhaps sooner perhaps a lot later. To me PSA/Stelantis like Mercs and BMWs (and VAGs) are cars you hire or own early in the warranty but even then it's a risk, then I'm not standard in my choice or like of cars. Even Toyota and Honda aren't as good as they used to be but they have further to fall. Personally I'd barely want a car from this century. The engines, if looked after (better than VW want) should last a very long time it's all the other bits I'd worry about including the computer programs and the ever increasing number of sensors and modules. God luck with whatever you decide.

Hi, welcome. You might need to replace the car battery (and possibly 'code' it) if you don't own and use an appropriate battery charger maintainer after reading the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and booklet for charger maintainer. You will have the battery last even longer and give better service if you carry out occasional, when required or convenient, full preventative recharges with the battery charger maintainer, best done low amps (4 or less) over aa long a time as required to get the battery to full charge. What is the full service history on your car, as "servicing" modern cars comprises of very little actually done, has the brake fluid been replaced, spark plugs been replaced, engine air filter replaced, cabin filter, engine oil & filter changed every year? For the DSG gear oil I'll leave to those that know more about it but it's not the same as a manual gearbox oil change which I've done on my wife's car using better oil than VW use (same for engine oil). For the timing belt it may not need doing but you don't say what engine you have in your post or name plate, ours was done at 5-years but that was a VWŠkoda UK con now not done (pity the UK isn't like other countries and we could get our money back for that con, £429 in our case). My name plate as only an example (these aren't seen on phones I believe but I wouldn't know). - You would need to ask 2020 owners or look in the threads and posts to see any common faults with them, on my wife's 2015 the VW front dampers are poor and not long lasting, a remote keyfob stopped working (£190 to replace and program in) and I make sure the "spare", actually second, key is used with the other in alternate rotation to even out wear on remotes and their batteries and their keyblades and ignition barrel but I couldn't beat the lack of longevity of the item. The factory brake pads and disks weren't as well wearing as I'd want (I changed to better) but they were bad (just not that good for wear). Annoying clunks from the underside developed but as other owners have spent a lot of time and money on replacing parts and they still remain I've not bothered as nothing's mentioned about this at MoT time, only the replacement VW front dampers that are only a few years old, they were "misting" at 11 months old (2-year warranty) so a reoccurring Advisory. Some VWs have coolant leaks, a friends 2019 1.5 had a charger cooler leak which I think is common. Personally rather than a VW I would go for an older Toyota or Honda as those I think would work less expense, work and hassle but I understand the devil you know and you sound like you don't mind the extra work and expense it might take to keep the Fabia. I'm surprised we've not seen more mention of Covid build quality and parts but other than radios and perhaps another battery monitoring issue (my wife's 2015 had the 97CU Recall) not seen much here on the Fabia mk3 forum. If you're happy with your 2020 Fabia then sticking with it for another 3-4 years and 30-40k-miles shouldn't be too bad. I changed the "lifetime" coolant on my wife's car but I think 10 years would be fine but many would keep it in the life of the car. The German marques for decades have liked to show how 'clever' they are by over complicating things, especially their computer programs so you want knows them working on them or that very rare thing someone who is good and gets information and checks and cross references his work (almost always a man unfortunately) particularly for diagnosis. If the engine you have is one of the active ones personally I'd not stick with it too long. Good luck.

Have a look at the map and list. -List of VCDS Owners (Previously known as VAG-COM) & VCP Owners -

From the 'Owner's Manual' of my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 - "The time can also be set in the Infotainment » operating instructions for Infotainment, chapter Device settings."

The "Maintenance list" is just a very basic ticksheet list probably not updated since god was a young girl and it was all fields around here, and probably often economical in completion accuracy. You'd have to talk to someone that no longer works in the Dealership service admin department/desk to find out how accurate the details on any bills are. Quantum 0w30 Longlife III is 504/507. - https://tps.trade/info/oil/quantum-longlife "VW 504.00 Engine Oil VW 504.00, as well as being a great choice for many modern & Volkswagen petrol engine cars on standard "time and distance" fixed interval servicing, these oils are also suitable for all Volkswagen petrol engines on LongLife, extended service intervals (up to 20,000 miles or 2 years, whichever comes first) EXCEPT for vehicles recommended a VW 508 or VW 509 specification oil. VW 504 00 oil and its sister spec VW 507 00 (for diesels) are known as VW LongLife III oil. The VW 504 00 specification supersedes the VW 503 00 and VW 503.01 specifications." - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-749-vw-50400-engine-oil.aspx oilspecifications.org - VW 507.00, VW 504.00, etc: Volkswagen Motor Oil Specifications Explained - https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php oilspecifications.org - Volkswagen Oil Specifications - https://www.oilspecifications.org/volkswagen.php How much deeper do you want to go down this rabbit hole, I can definitely get you to Australia (Penrite). 😁

Well done. Funnily enough that was on the other video I started to look at but it does depend on the location of the cable (mechanism or joint) failure. I remember watching an older video of John Twist trying to show how to get into a stuck 1970s MG "trunk" and failing before the video time ran out, shows how tricky these things can be sometimes, one day things fall in place and another things just fall apart, a simple job gets awkward and an awkward job seems quite simple. Don't risk a repeat as Sod's Law often applies. 😁

I don't know if you saw this video but if the Caddy is the same, gives a general idea of layout too. -

Always go by the oil temperature for when the engine is fully warmed, 90+ C for oil temperature. As stated the coolant will show 90 C and stay solidly there even though the actual coolant reading could be below, and above and swing between but not shown, only rock steady 90 c to save drivers being concerned about the varying temperature.

My wife's 2015 1.2 TSI gets to 92c within about 7-8 miles on a journey of town and open country roads with 30, 40 and 60 mph roads but probably 50 mph over a short distance as the top speed. Normally runs about 95/6c. All according to the car's oil temperature dash multidot read out, usually on Dealership (bills) 0w-30, 5w-30 (5w-40 for indy garage), I've not checked with the better quality 5w-30 oil I put in. But of course there are many variables especially comparing two different vehicles with two different drivers using in two different parts of the country. The about 10 miles a gallon difference also depends on how that, and previous figures, were measured and calculated. For the sake of conformation putting the old wheels back on will help, perhaps the 18" wheels and 40 profile tyres have rattled the car's computer brains.

Don't worry about forum, I just mentioned it as I know there are/were regular posters in the Mk2 forum that are knowledgeable (and here but not me with the mechanics). Bits I can help with, keep an eye on the battery and it's charge, GT85 is better than WD-40 Multi-Use, certainly for longer lasting lubrication, smells better too and is a penetrating/releasing fluid. - https://gt85.co.uk/ To save virtual and post and page space you can end the eBay link after the item (itm) number, such as, - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156346443676

ETA: as in my post we've got a few of those two page ticksheets and more have a good look at them and decide how much is service really and what is missing. No it's in his subsequent post replying to you "Usually the official Skoda shop uses only OEM parts with me being able to bring aftermarket I want ," I've taken my own engine oil for the first service to an official Dealership (not VW) in England. First service on my wife's 2015 Fabia was claimed to have been done by the selling Dealership (though I have my strong doubts anything was actually done) was recorded as "10,000 mile service" by the Dealership, listing oil, filter and sump plug, plus a bulb and nothing else. On the last "Complete record" we got from the local Dealership this first service is listed as "Flexible oil change service" and on the "Service history certificate" we very recently got from Škoda UK customer services the same service is listed as "oil change service" so three different description labels for the same event. There were no ticksheet(s) or other details but we've had hand filled in "Maintenance list" ticksheets, and print off "Your Visual Health Check" sheets and "Cash Sale Invoice" bills with all sorts of varying information. Never have I seen any evidence or been told of a scan tool report despite paying for such, never checked mileage to see if a road test was actually conducted. I do know about proper servicing of cars and most garages including the VWŠkoda Dealership and indy garage my wife has taken her car to have done what I would consider as a full service, more boils down to an engine oil and filter change and a look for chargeable work. I've had to remind my wife to ask for some service (called "maintenance" VWŠkoda UK) work at the Dealership as they've not mentioned them - but they we very quick to con us out of £429 for an unnecessary belt change and recommend even more expense for a water pump change. I've had plenty of experience of service work from garages and some warranty work.

The warranty isn't the issue it's the PITA of taking the part out again and refitting its replacement - but you might be lucky the £12.50 part might be as good as any others. As a generalisation cheap Chinese parts can be very good but it's more of a gamble - not that I know if your £12.50 part is Chinese made. Hopefully it will last a very long time.

As with aa lot of items on modern cars your dealing with black bits of plastic against black background, often other bits of black plastic, in dark areas that can be awkward to view and the bits are often cover in black oil and debris and/or mud. on my wife's 2015 the covers are to access the incandescent DLR bulbs which are a PITA and wrist to get at and despite being cleaned and lubricated the covers are awkward to pull off with the wheel/tyre in the way. I've had to take them off twice already as the bulb holder or wiring or something doesn't seem to be up to the job of keeping 21w bulb alight and will have to do it again to swap to LED bulbs so the DLR can be switched back on as the car owner wants. I have real difficulty refitting the bulb holders so have my, normally very relucent and absent, glamorous assistant do that part. Gawd knows how I'd get to the other bulb through that access.

Yogev has been advised to go to the Dealership and Yogev has put that he can take aftermarket to them but the aftermarket places are better, differs from here of course as many/most non-Dealerships garages or mechanics aren't much better than the Dealerships. The discussion has been about engine oils and parts not warranty but of course warranty issues are important with car still under warranty to sort out those VW actually admit to and don't think they can ignore and get the car out of warranty. I have no idea what VW can get away with in Israel as regards warranty (we all know the UK is a very soft touch for them, yet Sweden seems very well protected from them). There are of course practical considerations to consider, as we have to in the UK, as regards what is correct and what you actually have to do to be practical which is why UK Dealerships get service, maintenance and repair work that many would prefer to take elsewhere if it was practical in the short and medium term. I can see nowhere in my posts where I have suggested where the work should be done, Dealership or not. I only put that I disagree that it is best to just fit VW labelled or boxed engine oil, filter and sump plug but they would be fine, the advice to go to the Dealership had already been given and I didn't disagree with that. As usual lots of good advice has been given and choices can be made from that advice, after obviously, as always checking and cross-referencing any information from any source (including manufacturers) but particularly from the internet.

I prefer clean area, apply generously and if possible leave to soak at least overnight if not longer, then try to tighten before trying to loosen, if no joy repeat, apply generously and if possible leave to soak at least overnight if not longer, then try to tighten before trying to loosen, Time and patience is often the secret but I know some/many have do not always have the time and for many the patience. I had a fail when I didn't exercise enough patience, but I succeeded the next day when an engineering shop hadn't, I think they run out of time and patience, PlusGas isn't as good as it used to be now it's made for/by someone else, only this Thursday I throw a way a drip-tin of the 'new' PlusGas as the tin had corroded at the bottom and emptied itself in the shelf box and a spray can of the 'new' PlusGas lost it's aerosol after a third of the contents used. My previous drip-tin I probably had for about two decades in the shed. I used to use Rapideeze before PlusGas but that went out of production decades back' Think I'll just use GT85 if needed as a penetrating/releasing fluid as it's so good for other stuff.

My wife's been at the NEC Classic Motor Show and brought me back four cans of GT85, £2.50 each and they include "60ml extra free" so I am restocked for a short while as my neighbour wants another can and another neighbour will need one when he runs out. @mikear82 also clean and lubricate the inside of the window channel rubbers in the door(s) to make things easier and smooth and cut down on resistance, as Tesco tell us every little helps, and as I mentioned if the winders don't get used a lot give then some occasional exercise to ease them and stop them seizing up. I'm not sure what the A on the end of the part number is about but you will see a difference to electric and manual I think. with or without the A on a quick search for me comes up as rear left (as you look at the car from the back facing forward, hence we have right hand drive cars) manual.

Do yourself and your daughter a big favour and fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the 'Owners Manual' and the charger maintainer booklet. Better is low and slow, say a 4-amp or less, charger, this may take many hours or a day or more to fully recharger the battery. You can definitely get the battery fully recharged by Thursday (well as full as it may be able to go) if you start now it might be there by tomorrow if the battery is good and you've already charged the battery enough.. Modern cars have easier engine starts even if the battery is low, when the battery can't start the engine the battery is very low indeed. Even if the engine starts and the headlights seem bright enough the battery can still be too low for the VW computers and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected warnings and lights and error codes. Just staring a parked up car doesn't really help it much and if the engine isn't fully warmed up to 90c on the oil temperature then it's doing some harm. The coolant temperature gauge is biased to go to and stay at an indicated 90c when it is above and below this and moving. The car needs to be driven some reasonable distance to exercise the parts, components and systems on the car. If the car is parked up unmoved for about a month then the battery is best disconnected or a charger maintainer left connected to the battery to keep it topped up. If the program for your daughter's model and year of VW isn't fully up to date then errors may appear on it and if the scanner's battery, or if powered by the car's battery, is low in charge then again errors may appear on the scanner's readings. P334B - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P334B/013131 16712 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16712/P0328/000808 Personally I would fully charge the car's battery and check the scan tool is fully up to date and then after take readings again, just in case, and then see if the situation is still the same. Could be a typo but you've put 2013 for your daughter's Fabia, this is the Mk 3 forum, not that it matters as the principles are the same. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

No I was a numpty too, I was going to direct you to the Fabia Mk3 forum as I thought this thread was elsewhere then saw it wasn't. And now I know I've not seen how to do the adjustment until AG Falco's post, now I know. but doubt if I'll remember. 🙃

I've no idea where you're going with that or where it's from. Yogev said he was told he could take his own items in if he wants and that his mechanic uses "the oem vw oil and parts" but Yogev wanted to know if there were better oils - I enquired if VW boxed and labelled parts were what Yogev meant by oem parts and went on to suggest what I as a total non-expert thought of as better oil and information about oil filter and sump plugs and washers. I have no idea of Yogev situation in Israel or even if he's in Israel at the moment, I just gave my usual advice which I hope is helpful to Yogev, I have no idea of the consumer laws or regulations in other than UK If I have misunderstood or made a mistake I am sure Yogev could say so, if he wanted to. It is good to have a range of different opinions and views on such things as oils and parts and paying for labels.

I don't think your car has those type of headlights, yours look to be halogen type. For a Mk3 Fabia (2020) If you have LED type headlights you adjust via the infotainment menus but I forget if I've seen how to adjust them for halogen,

ETA: just beaten to putting some of below. You will need to do this a number of times over a reasonable distance and average it out, preferably over the same route with the same circumstances and environment but you are already in the car manufacturers' nth degree of nth degree of mpg figures which will vary on future tests. The tyre figures you have shown are nominal and comparing new to new tyres of the same sort which I doubt was how you changed your tyres. There are websites that give information to show how complicated this sort of thing is and at 1% change I'd guess you'd be within margins of error and variance. Good luck though, let us know how you get on and the out come.

At a quick look, as far as I can tell, it's a bit of a mixed bag for VW and Castrol by those numbers only which are merely possible indications, of oils that haven't been through use in the engines, they show those two might not be the best of the bunch shown on that exercise only. 0w-20 is quite "thick" compared to others using 0w-16, 0w-12 and 0W-8 (for Japanese car manufacture) oils, perhaps to be expected from 21st century 'German engineering quality'. Numbers are fine but need to be tested and proved by applicable application but things will be close when trying to get nth degrees of improvement (without being caught cheating) out of 150+ year old technology that is the internal combustion engine. Dealerships and garages are probably going to charge the same regardless of what oil they use (or claim to use) and if buying yourself for average driving and you can get VW or Castrol or others (correct specification) oil at a lower price, or even usual price that is fine.

I've seen various figures as to how much the start/stop battery is charged to usually 70%, 80% to allow for topping up by the car's system. If you was to plug-in/connect some sort of monitoring device you'll see how things vary in use of the vehicle or have a look in the Fabia Mk3 forum (and others) for where other members have posted charts and readings. Obviously if you have any concerns then checking the car's charging system with your multimeter(s) would be the next logical step as with a Carista you are using one set of computers program(s) to check another that is the car's computer program(s). I don't know the Carista but with scan tools generally you need to ensure the program in them is specific to your model and year and is fully up to date otherwise errors can occur. I think you are correct to check things, 10 years for a start/stop battery isn't bad but it's demise might have been hastened so it's worth checking if that's the case or not. I fitted a (non-start/stop) Enduroline battery to my car and it gave good service, still on the car now AFAIK. Personally as my wife does many short journeys I very occasionally do preventative recharges fully recharging the the AGM battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger maintainer's booklet. Unless it's different in Scotland you can MoT anytime from now early and keep your original renewal date "up to a month (minus a day) before it runs out". Good luck.

Most Dealerships, garages, mechanics and car engineers, in the UK at least, believe in getting or using an oil that meets the specification and that's all and many believe in getting the lowest price oil that meets that specification as possible, that is fine if it is a good or very good oil on some special low price oil and not a lower quality oil that just meets the specification. If you do not intend keeping the car too long then it may not matter to you if you use cheap oil but if you intend to keep the car many years and/or not use it a lot or drive it hard most times then a better oil will offer greater margins of protection and keep those margins for long. Also important is timely engine oil and filter changes, as is proper servicing of the whole car and not just engine oil and filter changes. What is called a "service" now often is not really a service. Good luck.

If you mean VW labelled or boxed oil and oil filter as oem then I disagree as VW do not produce oil, or engine oil filter as far as I know, if you want to use them then they will be fine but you can certainly get better engine oils than VW use in the UK at least, I would certainly not use cheap oils and never have even in old and very old cars. In a hot country particularly I would suggest using a better quality synthetic oil, there are so many about you can choose. A good oil will meet the VW specification number, looking at the Technical Data Sheet for the oil will confirm this. As an example for my wife's 2015 Fabia 1.2 TSI the VWŠkoda Dealerships have always used the recommended Castrol Edge (Pro, LL) engine oil (or at least put that on the bill) but when I done this year's engine oil change myself I preferred to use Millers Oils EE Performance as I have used Millers performance type oils in my previous vehicle and found them to be very good. For the oil filter I used Mann and found it be very good quality. I am not sure if Bosch oil filters are made by another manufacturer, many makes are, and I do not know in your marketing or manufacturing region. For the sump plug it depends on what VW are doing now, previously from the factory they used a sump plug with a fixed washer meaning the sump plug and washer have to be replaced as one but instead they can use a separate plug and separate washer so that only the washer needs replacing in future, how it is with a 2024 car and/or 1.5 engine I do not know. As example only, example sump plugs for my wife's 2015 Fabia 1.2 TSI to show what I mean, N90813202 is with fixed washer, I do not know if these fit the 1.5 or not.