nta16

Great news. Just to clarify, this 1.1kw heater with built in pump (cost equivalent to £130 including P&P) is powered by electric from where? the heater part is what Kw? coupe heater is the other heater you previously put inside the car to defrost inside before you use the car?

As inspectorman has put plus your Carista OBD2 is drawing power from the car to operate. Multimeters will also vary in readings depending on how accurate they might be, cheap digital ones can vary a lot. 12.85v is good on new AGM battery, subject to how accurate your multimeter is, but I would still fully charge (any) the battery with an appropriate charger maintainer before fitting it to the car, at 12.85v it wouldn't take long. The VW (over) complex battery management computer program will not also fully charge the battery and 20 mile runs mean little as you could be using more electric than goes to the battery depending on your journey(s), driving style and electric use. In case you don't already know these VW self-studies tells you about the batteries, battery and start/stop systems. - SSP-234-Vehicle-batteries.pdf SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf SSP-504_Vehicle_Batteries.pdf

Hi, welcome. Sounds like you might have altered some menu display thing or it might be a system fault. You might be best looking at and/or asking on the Yeti forum, saying what model type of radio/infotainment model you have (Bolero, Amundsen). - Škoda Yeti - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/170-škoda-yeti/ HTH.

Yes but if you can get to the dash main earth point without removing the dash it saves disturbing things, a probe or if possible a connect will give you a reading on a multimeter that you can compare with earth reading from main battery cable connector to battery terminal, or terminal clamp, to main earth connection on body of car and engine. You want the figure to be just about the same for all otherwise you need to clean and secure earth connection(s) or check cables and wires for cracks, breaks or corrosion. There was a very good video for this I'll see if I can find it again but no doubt there are many other videos perhaps as good or even better but many not so good ones too.

Do you actually need to take the dash out to check earths, I've told you a way of bring direct earths to any item by just running a temporary wire/cable/lead from the battery earth terminal clamp to that item or place.

Figures and numbers or needle position on dials mean nothing it's all about how the car feels to the driver, modern cars are more about the driver being a passenger behind the steering wheel, 1970s cars like a Golf GTI are about the driver actually driving the car. Plus the size and weight differences, wheel and tyre sizes. Modern cars better at getting you from A to B in more comfort perhaps but a lot less about the driving experience.

Have a read through the following thread. - HTH.

Be very selective about what mapping and where it's done as the German marques including VW have for decades used very complex and intertwined computer programs so it really needs somebody who really knows what they're doing to start messing with the programs and introducing any changes. You should find threads or posts on good maps and mappers for what you want (rather than just, possibly short term, ego figures). It's not the engine that's the issue otherwise just mapping it to get over your issue would strain the engine. At your age you may remember much smaller and less powerful engine cars carrying families of 5, 6 or 7 going uphill and down dale. VW's rough sounding 4-cylinder are what VW are used to building so one cylinder less is unlikely to be smoother. I/we had a few Japanese cars of much less cubic capacity with turbo and the engines were very sweet and I/we had one that was a Merc engine that was very good engine too (from last century so before quality dropped). My wife's 2015 had a damp seatbelt recently, door seal leak I hope (another non-durable part to the list) I also had that on my last car, soft-top roof leaked, drop in this British company quality of manufacture. My wife had a 1974 Cortina Mk3 2000E in the early 90s, 'Executive' but no headrests and the old IIRC rubber foot bowl for windscreen washer and IIRC foot?) dip switch. My 25 year old Capri was low mileage, below 100k-miles, and Ziebart'd from new so very little rust. The Capri enthusiast who bought the car from me found out why the tailgate was so heavy, it was full of Ziebart. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Personally I'd check the £12.50 one is a good quality part, a good reliable make as I think, as with fitting many parts on a car, fitting this part is a bit of an awkward PITA farting about job that you might not want to repeat too soon. £84 sounds more than I remember from previously but £12.50 sounds too "cheap" and "cheap" often works out more expensive and hassle. If unsure I'd cancel the order. A lot of places, including large parts supplies sell parts using the manufacturers part number but the part(s) offered are copies and some of low quality and durability and longevity.

Appears to be 6Q0 959 263 A but do check this is correct, buying a "cheap" version, like with many parts, can turn out to be a mistake. Quick search -

Forgot to answer your question, yes once there is insufficient charge in the battery the engine will stop because the computers wont like it. "12 volt battery faults are the most common cause of breakdowns" and as your case it's very, very rarely the of the 12v battery (most usually the cause is owner/driver use. abuse and neglect of the battery). - https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/top-ten-breakdown-causes

Hi, welcome. Starting the car is only one part of the issue, and not so draining as in past decades but a diesel does take more to start. If the alternator is not topping up the battery then of course the battery will drain. You can reduce the amount the battery drains by reducing the load on the battery with no or reduced use of the starter motor (deactivate start/stop), air-con, blower motor, heated anything, radiator fan (do not get the engine too hot), wipers and lights (where safe), anything you have added to the car, infotainment. You need to fully recharge using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions for its use in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instruction booklet. You want to fully recharge the battery after each car use. If activated the start/stop would be the first item to show low battery by not operating when it should, perhaps you may get all sorts of unexpected of messages and/or warning lights and unseen error codes, the computers do not like the battery in a low state of charge and may make you suffer for it. When you have the alternator sorted as suggested get all error codes cleared. I do not know but I would guess if the power steering stops then you are very low and difficulty starting the engine may soon follow. Be careful to check you do not accidently use electric when you do not need to or accidently leave any electric running, Bear in mind the car's computers and alarm system run when the car is parled up so even more reason to fully recharge the battery and use a battery charger maintainer to maintain the charge level. I had an alternator failed whilst on a driving tour weekend and I would have been fine but I forgot to turn off my headlights once we got out of the mist, but this was on a very old car with very, verry little electric load and no computers at all (oh, for such days again).

I have no idea of the quality of the part(s) or the seller but with 100% Positive reviews hopefully they are OK. I click in to see it is "£60.00 or Best Offer" plus P&P for "Vw Caddy Mk2 Grill". - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326318075068 Good luck.

There should be a few Caddys about in the UK in one shape or state or another. I hope you can access these UK eBay links. Year 2000 pickup being "broken" parts available, vehicle has been off the road possibly 4-5 years. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326144151757 Another one - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235089855537 Another one (possibly?). - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235089855537

Warriot193 has already covered the one thing I was. My only other thoughts are, are there any warning lights or messages on the dash (red/amber-triangle-of-doom and/or other(s)), then it's restrictions on the car that need a good look over the car to find. With these modern cars, particularly the likes of German marques including VWŠkoda you very often the use of a VW appropriate scan tool, with the program fully up to date for your model and year, to point you to the areas requiring further diagnosis and/or repair. When did this issue start, was anything done before this on the car, any work or items fitted to the car? You can add your model and gearbox details to your name plate thingy if you want, mine merely as an example. To summarise, your Fabia Mk3 is a 2016, 1.2 TSI, Monte Carlo, 5-gear manual, with 54k-miles that won't go above 3,600 rpm when on the road or parked.

Hi, welcome. When wont it go above 3.600 rpm, what situation(s)? What gearbox do you have? What have you checked on the engine and car? What is the service history of the car?

Hopefully previous 1.0 110 ps will be along with their experiences, @vandjq you will need to take into account comparisons of the different gearboxes and whether, if available, sport, standard or eco drive settings are used. @rum4mo I misread the post as I was thinking of a previous post where I thought it was a friend of Van's 😆- but Van ends with the question. Only VW and those used to the larger engines to carry the lardy VW cars would think 1.2 litre (and 110 ps with turbo) is a small engine, the modern craziness of higher hp (sorry PS) figures encourages the thought that a 1 litre car can't be used outside of city-centres (mind so much of its power is needed to drag the modern car weight around and turn the oversized wheels and tyres. 😁 Looking at the car's Owner's Manual should give the owner/driver some idea of the power band and driving it deals with real world reality. To my memory a 1600 Mk2 Escort Ghia probably didn't have 110 hp probably nearer 90 hp of the 1.0 and 1.2 Fabias but I could be wrong, Mk1 1300E is more in my memory, other than sometimes getting lifts in a very noisy Mk1 Mexico in the mid-80s with ZZ Top's Eliminator album cassette playing loud, which must have been on loop because it was always playing when I got in the car. My 25 year old Capri 2.0S had FoMoCo 'Weber' with IIRC the auto-choke that still worked (many as you probably know had to go back knob and cable). Unless tuned up the *v with carb(S) tended to be for low to meduim revs for torque with twin set up perhaps going higher end for the ego figure. More so, but similar, to the moderns now it depends how well the car was serviced and maintained, and perhaps set up wit the carb(s) as to how well the engine might go. Today they go better with modern oils, perhaps cleaner petrols even if 5-star is missing. As I put in another post you drive the car your sat in behind the steering wheel, revs and gears as required by the thinking driver, not the dumb computer suggests as it can't se all the circumstances ahead, yet, at least.

I spoken with a wife's friend today who'd had coolant leak on her 2019 SEAT Leon for four visits to the selling garage under warranty over about 9 months and I went on her last visit where it was found to be the common problem of charger cooler leak (after they'd claimed to replace the expansion cap and said car was fine, then claimed to have replaced the expansion tank and everything was fine, then something else do and everything was fine). She had the car serviced last week and the guy that done it said the charger cooler hadn't been fitted correctly and there was a small leak! @rum4mo sure you know to check previous work done before you start, even if it was you that done the work.

Yes. Have a look at numerous threads on this forum and other forums on this site about such things. Obviously it's not always the cause but might be a contributing cause. The German marques, including VAG/VWŠkoda have for many decades had (over) complex computer programs that are intertwined (and over-invasive) so what seems unrelated isn't and a issues or computer brain-fart in one area can cause confusion in another area(s). A decent appropriate battery charger is £30 ((£15 Lidl/Aldi about this time of year), a new decent battery (EFB) (with P&P for 2105 Fabia would be about £100 (plus 'coding' required) and anything up to about £240+ including fixing and coding depending where you go. Get the garage to do a battery and alternator test, matter of minutes very easy work and give you the report just to be sure. As agreed this is often a failure of some sort with or to the wheel sensor. Have a look at the following for an ABS issues and an unrelated steering issues that disappears without being looked after sorting first issue. I like this chap as he checks and cross references his diagnosis and also checks and cross references his repair and he does just plug in a scan tool and follow it blindly. - Final bit of advice if you want it, those viewing on PCs at least can see your name badge-thigy and if you want to you can fill in more details which can cut down a bit on misunderstanding and looking for your car's details or asking for them. Here's mine only as an example. - Let us know how you get on.

Have a search of this forum (and others) it's been reported on here before. If your whole car is fully serviced (which ain't much more than engine stuff now) in a timely manor then just drive the car you are sitting in behind the steering wheel not the friend your car has in they way they drive their car (but not yours). Being told how you should drive is normally done by a wife, certainly is with me, the verbal handbrake, non-existent hazard warnings, I don't need all the electronic drive "aids" and "assists" on the more modern cars as I have passenger seat assistance. Make you friend walk! 😁

Hi, welcome. Check you 12v is in a good state of charge and health, personally any electrical issues, which this may be, I fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer after reading the Owner's Manual and charger booklet for instructions oh how this is done for that particular car. This type of thing often turns out to be a wheel speed sensor at faulty or the wiring or connection(s) to it, live data off a scan tool and testing with a multimeter and perhaps light bulb can diagnosis and check if this is the cause, being intermittent is a PITA but wiggling the wires and connector(s) or in cold/damp might cause the issue to show. If the 12v battery is low even though the headlights look bright enough and the engine starts the battery could still be too low for the computers and put up all sorts of unexpected warning lights and often just driving the car and relying on the alternator isn't enough to recharge the battery sufficiently but it might be enough to extinguish the warning lights for a while hence the need to use an appropriate battery charger maintainer to fully recharge the battery as detailed before. I dislike VWs (Škoda has been VW for decades now of course) but even I would never suggest you get rid of such a lower mileage car for such a minor issue (which might, or might not) be solved by doing something many drivers and owners used to do many years back, and the need is returning and much more the new the car, and that is a simple clean-hands, very easy owner maintenance task of recharging the battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer to fully recharge the battery as detailed before. Unfortunately to doit properly may require two things many no longer posses and that's time and patience, connect it up and recharge it slowly for as long as it takes, if it's not possible to fully recharge the battery in one go then take two goes, better than rushing with a higher charge rate. Start with the simple easy work connect up an appropriate charger maintainer to fully charge the battery when your not even at the car and could be asleep overnight before moving on to you or someone else get down and dirty farting about with cars. After fully recharging the battery take it for a good drive and see if any lights remain on or return and go from there. Let us know how you get on. HTH.

That is why you check and double check any information you get, especially off some bloke on the internet. 6U7853651A - https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_uk/part/6U7853651A

No your English is good it is just that different companies and supplies and people have different names for different parts. To me is front panel or grille surround is radiator grille is (radiator / front) grille badge or emblem. Is this what you want? This one is on UK eBay was white but brush painted grey with "marks to grill and trim throughout. 1 x broken rear clip", £65 or best offer. For others, as you cannot(?) access eBay UK the link. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186691277834 It quotes part number as 6K5 854 643A but other places only have it as number 1 on your list excluding 2 and 3. -https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6k5854643a

Hi, welcome. It might be just me but I do not know what you mean by facia. If you put up on here a landscape photo of your 1997 Felicia facia then the same part might be identified in a VW Caddy 2.