nta16

What is the stated (nominal) (opening) temperature of the "febi! / MotoRad stat?

1.3 = 340 mm at 2.37 kg 1.6 = 362 mm at 3.52 Kg The 1.6 spring is only 22 mm longer yet weights another 1.15 kg, the 1.6 spring must be heavier duty or different material than the 1.3 or the figures are wrong.

We run my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI 90 hatch at 30 psi, with a few different tyres all have been fine, we tried 35 and certainly noticed the difference in rolling resistance when rolling along the road but my wife preferred the car's handling (such as it is) at 30 psi and not 35 psi and it's her car that she drives so 30 it is. Two of my neighbours cars that I drive are also 30 psi setting (makes it easy for me as I check the tyres) and they are also fine at that setting.

Microswitch repair kit sort of issue. See this pdf - 2060686.3 - Fault Workshop! Leave vehicle only in position P.pdf

Bear in mind what you do to the front can affect the rear, front and rear need to balance and compliment each other to keep the car's balance on the road.

Unless you are loading the car up so need more pressure in the rear yures, try running the tyres at the 'eco' setting for a while and see how you get on with it. It's easier enough to let some air out if you don't get along with the 'eco' setting, you might notice some mpg difference on the long drive. Have a read of your car's Owner's Manual as it will be full of info that could save you time, money and hassle (whether this info is in it or not). Free VWŠkoda pdf downloads from their site if you don't have the very handy paper printed version. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I've never noticed the "1 bar = 100 kPa" on that label until I posted the photo in that post, how long I remember that is another matter. Good luck.

Which part, missing part or part marked 600 915 345 C 2? Dealership parts department (not always expensive) or breakers yard / recyling centre. You might be better looking at and/or asking on the following forums - Skoda Fabia Mk I or Mk2 forum depending on your 2007 - Škoda Fabia - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/166-škoda-fabia/ Parts For Sale - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/165-parts-for-sale/ Breaking cars - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/334-breaking-cars/ HTH.

I never trust tyre pressures set by garages, tyre places or gauges at petrol stations, on manual or electric pumps. Yes I have found garages and tyre places inflate to wrong pressures. Goggle shows 210 Kpa is 30.5 psi (rounded) so say 30psi (2.1 bar) and 245 is 35 psi (2.45 bar) so the 'eco' setting, so they've set to 'eco' setting, higher pressure giving less rolling resistance for more mpg, it does make a noticeable difference to the car rolling along the road (and perhaps handling depending on your tyres and style of driving). ETA: I always work in psi as I'm old and 30 (psi) or 35 is a lot easier to remember.

ETA. before putting the very awkward shaped air filter box back on the ball pins you could try cleaning the rubber grommet things on the air box and put something like GT85, or silicone spray or small amount suitable grease and see if that eases reinstallation and hopefully taking the box off next time you need to. - https://gt85.co.uk/ I put the very awkward shaped air filter box on my small bench worktop to remove the hidden screws and it slipped off and scratched the plastic so place a wide and thick enough cloth/rag under the air box to stop it slipping or getting scratched, learn by my mistake. PS I wouldn't take that front hose that has the rectangle air intake off at that end if you can avoid it as it's a loose flimsy fit as it is.

To me the air filter box is a right PITA farting about job and as with much VW and German engineering made more complex than needed. Once you've taken all of the hoses off include the small one the air filter box just pulls up, you might need to lift one ball off at a time to wiggle the box up. Bear in might there's a long drip tube at the front near the radiator when lifting out, then you need to turn the box over to take the hidden screws out and carefully prise the box open to get at the filter. The filter needs to be installed and sealed correctly, I've no idea with the Tosch engine air filter but you get instructions with the Mann. - https://mann-hummel.com/content/dam/mann-filter/pim-assets/product-information/MFPI102_en_Installation_C_27_009.pdf See this video. -

@rum4mo if you want to flush "stuff" out and penetrate, release and lubricate the red can with the red straw is good for this. if required at a later point a heavier lubricant can be use but GT85 is quite long lasting. I wondered if my neighbour's GM might have a T27 as despite his wide range of tools in his home garage neither of us could find a fit, neither of us have good eyesight and of course cars always have black fixings against black bits of plastic, in dark, dirty (it was a diesel) engine bays. I went to another neighbour to try his cheap set of various security bits. It turned out to be a 5-sided security (raised pin bit in centre) Torx, I didn't even know such things existed at the time. I've found US. Pro / Bergen tools fine for DIY occasional use so bought a set for this one job and have never used them since. I've bought a few tools or tools sets and had the same happen, I often just give them away as I don't like to have stuff that just sits around doing nothing, that's too much competition for me.

Well done. So much servicing, maintenance and many repairs on cars, and other stuff, often just boils down to clean (and often lubricate). I'm not sure you needed to use the switch cleaner lubricant after the cleaning but I doubt it will hurt and might help with microswitches. Even clearing error codes with a scan tool is a type of cleaning, any good worker or tradesperson knows the value of cleaning. I've got to take apart a TV remote and clean it up specifically the buttons and contacts and wanted to try putting some graphite on but the very small bottle of it I bought many years back was never returned by a neighbour and I couldn't ask for it back but walking to the shop the other day I saw a broken pencil on the grass verge, with no one around at all I decided to partly recycle its use to coat the remote buttons pad and then in to one of the tool boxes to supplement one of the ones that keep breaking in use.

That's a very good point for things on the car and independent. On the rare very cold winter's day here I've had to bring some electronic tools from the shed into home to warm them enough to use outside effectively, one being a modern battery charger. 😆 A chap from Sweden was asking about pre-heaters, found a race car mains electric powered coolant preheater but it was very expensive and needed to be quite a while to warm things but racing is higher pre-heat temperature cold start could be a lot less but also starting from a lot lower ambient temperature, there also stuff for oil and battery and battery insulation of course. I couldn't find the pre-heater coil of pipe that I'm sure I used to see for "classic" cars but perhaps it's a false memory or I'm dreaming. Empty the battery too deep and or too often then as we've ben looking at and discussing the battery won't last as long as it should and possibly turn into a sudden distress purchase after a breakdown or failure to start engine, as part of the Number 1 reason for UK breakdown call outs. Personally I don't like freezing temperatures at all, never have, but now I'm getting (even) older I don't even like single digits in the positive, I also don't like the heat, rain or snow . . . 🙃

Could this be poor or missing connection(s) to the voltage stabiliser (poor earthing perhaps) or faulty or failing voltage stabiliser?

Many. many years ago at some show or other there was a Jag on a stand about alternative to copper wiring (forget what) for car wiring as the amount and weight of the wiring on such a luxury car as this with all of its comforts and conveniences (mostly completely standard on poverty-level shopping trollies now) was so much at the time that it was thought something needed doing - obviously it was thought best to make the wires and insulation a lot thinner. 😆 (By SAAB I expect you mean GM SAAB.)

MotoRad making them for febi on contract might explain why I didn't see MotoRad list a stat for Felicia. You may already know this but in case not, the (nominal) rated temperature of the stat is when it starts to open not when it is fully open, that will be at a higher temperature. I don't know about your plastic housed stat but older style separate stats MotoRad used to say - [ETA: I couldn't find this now on their website] - that the stat may have a manufacturing tolerance of +/- 3 F (they're American so work in F not C) and the stat is fully open about 15F-20F degrees above its rated temperature. So working in C with figures rounded to nearest 0.5C, that means say an old 88C stat starts to open at 86C – 89.5C and is fully open at 94.5C – 100.5C allowing for manufacturing tolerances, I hope that makes senses. Now as I put I don't know if the manufacturing tolerance is less for more modern stat, but wax pellets must be similar and the part retails at about £10 so how accurate do they go for that (I don't know). For previous stat not working so well now, when you installed it did you renew /refresh / replace your coolant at change of thermostat in case any debris contamination caused problems previously and in future? Could be other things but have a look at this MotoRad video, there are plenty of other videos and info on their website. - HTH.

@FergalK personally I don't put too much store by marketing things like "pulse" and "intelligent" and "smart", a repair / recover setting can work but not always, I assume your charger is suitable for start/stop and AGM batteries. Once you've severely weakened the battery it can be difficult to recover anywhere near fully and sometimes you can't usefully recover it for any reasonable period of service., your charger might well have saved the battery if used earlier when the battery trouble first started and might have avoided this outcome if used in a preventative manner but I don't think this battery will be any good for even simple very old car use, perhaps running a radio or light in garage, for a while. Your charger (if suitable for AGM) will be fine to look after the replacement battery when required if used sooner and/or for preventative recharges when required, or as a maintainer if the vehicle is parked up for a number of weeks (see Owner's Manual). But I personally would give that charger away if it can't se set to lower, slower recharging and instead buy something like the following example, there are obviously many others and suppliers to choose from, Aldi or Lidl (I forget which) about this time of year sell perfectly good ones, just get one 3, 4 or 5 amps at most for maintenance (and recovery without a setting saying so). Ring 4-amp "smart" charger - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Here's the previous model (RSC804) being used on my wife's car over night, weather went down to -3C IIRC, 16 hours to full charge the AGM battery and it wasn't even that low in charge (cold doesn't help with charging hence 'winter' setting for when I guess below (+)5C. Tayna (£145.81) appear to give 4 years guarantee, Halfords (£237.19) give 5 years , which you'd expect given the price difference! This has nothing to do with how long the battery will last as it's the same battery from both of them and I'd expect it to last much longer than 5 years, the guarantee will have conditions of use/abuse/neglect but if you can get any sort of refund/discount from the selling garage on a new battery I'd imagine it would be because they sell it for a lot more than the Tayna, or even perhaps Halfords, price. As your car and all that's on it gets even older than its present 9 years you will learn even more the importance of its 12V car battery being in a good state of charge, and good state of health. (ETA: even more important on cars from say 2019 onwards). HTH. Good luck.

I'd sooner have the battery on a (charger) maintainer if required but if it's regularly -30C and you can't get a bigger battery in the space I too might carry a jump-starter but I'd not want to use it too often (in UK many would forget to charger that up when required). I'd certainly use better engine (and if manual better gearbox) oil(s) for those temperatures than VW Dealerships for greater margins and protection and ease of vehicle use and engine starting. A 2017, 19, 21, 23/4 vehicle battery demands and use can be more than 2015/6 models so more to maintain as regards the battery with the later models or more frequent changes of expensive battery. It might not be too much longer in the UK before we have the first wave of car engine starting issues and breakdown call-outs because of "battery" issues in the UK, shelf stocks of new batteries are usual good for the first wave of premature (and often unnecessary) battery replacements.

Yeap, I turned the DRL off via the infotainment menu, I'm not sure why you'd want them on (without the rear lights too) but each to there own. Perhaps the other VW cars turned them off too, especially if they keep discolouring or blowing or warnings. If there are problems with the DRL lights you will get the the amber-triangle-of-doom and it will show up in the 'CAR' infotainment menu. See the car's Owner's Manual (and don't say as a phone man you didn't read manuals or you're in for a disciplinary and loads of training courses. cancel any holidays). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Yeap it's another PITA/wrists job changing those bulbs, plastic covers in wheel arches don't want to come off easily even after being cleaned and lubricated on the previous occasion and a fart of a job just putting the bulb holder back in, the breif twist required is a bit disconcerting too. Yes light is a by-product of the bulbs heat is main thing. On my wife's car the state of the rhs bulb and bulb holder showed something wasn't right or good enough, other lhs was nowhere near as bad. The rhs was a non-factory bulb from what I could tell so had already been changed before, no on third bulb (at least) and DRL no longer used. I'll stick with contacting Classic Car LEDs Ltd. about the LEDs they sell as I've dealt with them before and am confident in their products and what they say. If you want to do a guide on anything there is a general Fabia (Mk 1, 2, 3 and 4) 'Skoda Fabia Guides' forum but as some models already have LED strips for DRL and changing bulbs is covered by the Owner's Manuals I'm not sure this would be the topic, but don't let me stop you if you think it will give further help or guides on anything else. If you can't drive you could still perhaps get a scan report done at home (and a good chance IF required to do a preventative full recharge of the battery with an appropriate charger maintainer). Let us know when anything happens, good luck.

Note: you need to check I have correct stat for your vehicle. For 87c have a look here but none really fill me with joy, it shows Febi (17902) and alternatives. First Line and Borg & Beck are both part of First Line, others I can't remember now. Gates and others may not make their own but I don't know. You also have to check that the supplier has the correct information for application to vehicle. I've used Parts in motion before and they are fine to deal with. febi 17902 - https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/17902 Parts in Motion febi 17902 (£10.43 inc. P&P (Royal Mail 2nd Class Tracked)) and alternatives stats - https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/febi-coolant-thermostat-17902-detail HTH.

I forgot about this thread on this forum. - 2c) 'Modifying Your Fabia MK III' -

Hi, welcome. I'm going to give you help but I'm sure you don't really want just anybody's views on this (16x8(?) ET20(?)) as you'd not like them (including mine) and I've no idea what you mean by poke in this context (poke is power, speed to me) - so two bits of hopefully help for you. 1) Wheels - https://www.willtheyfit.com/ 2a) site's 'Fabia Projects' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ 2b) site's 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/ HTH.

Lots of the past microcars were similar, motorbike engines and bits. We should be going back to such sized vehicles instead of these very lardy, overweight, oversized, monsters we have now as much driving is done over short distances with just the driver or perhaps sometimes plus one passenger in crowed, congested traffic where speeds are well below 50kph most of the time. I think you will know just how little hp power is needed even in lardy modern cars once they're up to speed (not saying for mountain roads although many very small and low powered cars were tested on mountains) or for towing a boat or big caravan. It's also about power to weight the lardier the car the more power is required to to lug its weight about.

In that case I'm not sure that Alfa brake pedal would pass the UK MoT based on safety (I could be wrong I'm not an examiner). I didn't see evidence of that in the photos of the crashed cars, do you mean airbags, I'm lost with this. It might be legally classed as a bike for whatever reasons but it looks very much like a car by most "car people's" definitions. I've seen a couple of 2CV/Diana on local roads recently, still on the road about 50 years old, they weren't so bad in there time or now, in fact in many ways good, just different to the mundane average majority of cars.

Have a look at the map list. -