nta16

If it was me I'd take the advice and go back and ask for the "Area Master Tech" as the fitting branch didn't complete the diagnosis or job - unless they only undertook to fit the part(s) and not sort the source or related issue and that was the contract with you. This of course supposes that TopDon's Artidiag 900 lite has it's program up to date and it's not with glitches, errors and omissions which given everything else I'd give it the benefit of accepting it's findings on this, it could be used to look further but obviously the second branch would prefer the "Area Master Tech" takes this on. Often there's a god chance, if you wanted, given the information you might do just as good job of tracking the issue down as you don't have the time and policy restraints put on some employees and self-employed professionals plus you care more about getting a final resolve to the issue. It might, or might not, turn out to involve something a bit more complicated than basics checks and bit of work but at least you'd have covered the basics some pros can't be bothered with. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

ETA: would using a multimeter with the probes directly on the new battery terminal posts give the same figures as your OBD11?

Using the start/stop does not damage the battery, perhaps overall the battery might be better and last longer but it does not damage the battery, the battery can be damaged by system or component or part malfunction or car owner or driver use / abuse / neglect. A 2021 car has more on it for the owner/user to use to wear the battery more and sooner than say a 2014 or much earlier cars. On my old cars if I bought a new battery I would expect about 10 years before I need pay it any attention or perhaps use a battery charger (last was a 1973 MG Midget) but that's a different car from a different time. You have also added in something to the system, that obviously needs to be not causing any issues, I am not saying it has has, how could I possibly know. 3-4 hours may or may not be enough to charge the battery sufficiently let alone fully, there are many variables, I recommend fully recharging the battery using an appropriate charger maintainer after reading the car's Owner's Manual and charger instructions, the lower the amperage of charger but the long it will take to get to full, I usually link to a 4-amp charger maintainer but if the battery charger is very low a 2-amp charger may be better but will take longer around twice as long, so possibly many hours (to days in bad cases). One cause of battery being in a low state of charge is the car's charging system not operating properly, checking the charging system is a basic check for unexpected cause of battery in low state of charge. What is the type of battery showing in the OBD11? See the link I put up in my previous post for last two questions, test again when driving the car or at other points at other times and perhaps again a month's time and see what figures you get and report back or consider if you are satisfied or you want the mechanic to do more checks and work.

Getting under the seat or lifting the seat to get at a second connector to check they are fully pushed home is a job you don't need to be a mechanic or auto-electrician for. Some posts and threads on here suggest some auto-electricians might not be as good as they could be, wanting or only capable of certain jobs and not doing full and proper diagnosis and then checking and cross referencing the diagnosis and then checking and cross-referencing the fix to make sure it works and there are no other related issues. Your report, if done by a professional, shows an element of laziness (which personally I've found quite common with domestic electricians, as a total generalisation) and not just for that reason I'd suggest getting "a second opinion". There are some Briskoda members with appropriate scanner that may be able to help you, to at least some extent at least, for perhaps beer tokens, some others offer professional services so different rates, have a look from the following link. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

A cleaning of the fusebox and it's connections may (or may not) save replacing with new but a Dealership/garage/mechanic/auto-electrician may decide and/or charge otherwise. Any electrical or engine starting issues I start at the battery (and fully recharge it even if the charge isn't too low as battery state of charge can help or hinder fault diagnosis and find resolve) and go from battery forward with checks at least. A scan tool can help but it never fully rules out the basic checks that existed before them. @roxby_fabia James, P0562 could possibly suggest that the basic checks haven't been completed or it might be an additional issue, if you also had/have a battery in a low state of charge then checking the car's alternate might be a good idea but of course with electrics you also have to check, wire, connections, parts/components, all need to be fully functioning and clean, secure and protected. Also with error codes you need a scan tool appropriate to your VW model and year, at an appropriate level for fuller diagnosis, and the program for your model and year fully up to date otherwise you can be given incomplete or even incorrect information.

Sorry I missed your replies. Did you read the post on that thread I linked to dated 27 October (I missed the (edited) bit though then), this was the bit I meant really - " . . . then I found out that there was a second connector tucked up under the seat squab, I released the seat rails to tip the seat up to find it and there was indeed one and giving it a push & pull resulted in a satisfying click and the problem was finally resolved after 13 years!" For error code 00589 see and read the following to the very end as it seems VERY important. - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00589

This morning, for the first time I've had it happen on another site so it does looks like the Googly playing up in some way, but it's still not doing it on this page now for me. It's all very minor, a little glitch made by their programmer(s), human or this so-called AI, it's not like these programs are operating heavy machinery. 😆 Luckily car manufacturers go for tried and tested systems, well old cheap to buy components anyway. Wot could possibly go wrong. 🤣

Water was also a thought of mine (and the cold) and scan report and bi-directional testing hence the VCDS link. GT85 also "drives out moisture from electrical systems" and "protects surfaces from water, rust and dirt" but of course it you'd also want to prevent the water getting in. - https://gt85.co.uk/product/gt-85-spray/ Pity about the manufacturer now, was originally British, but Coke can't own everything. 😆

These type of companies possibly don't want their customers to know too much but they need staff, this took about two seconds to find slowed as I'm a one-finger typist. - Škoda UK Head Office Škoda UK is based at Volkswagen Group UK’s head office in Milton Keynes. A career at head office can take many twists and turns, and we encourage everyone who works with us to explore any opportunities that appeal to them. Our people have a true passion* for what they do, a genuine desire to go further for customers and to give their own careers real momentum at the same time. . . . . https://www.skoda.co.uk/discover/careers ETA: * passion can be less on a Monday morning, which makes for a very long working week 😉

Christian you would be better in the other forum but just to confirm some details it appears you have a Octavia Mk3,, 1.6 TDI, Estate, 81KW / 110HP, DBKA engine, manual gearbox, silver colour. Looking at a 2015 version of the Owner's Manual for your model on pages 37 and 38 it has check the coolant level (when the engine is cold) and to check the fuse for the radiator fan and replace if necessary. Free VWŠkoda pdf download of the Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models What the garages have been up to I don't know but a scan tool report and looking at live data should have been able to help them. See how you go on the other forum with this information. Good luck. ETA: generally it's better to take photos in landscape (not portrait) as more information gets into the frame (unless portrait is needed).

Very probably given how low your car battery is. It does depend if this is at revs or idle, without or without load or high load, state of charge of battery and other factors but as you're going to fit a new battery you could test again with the new battery fitted particularly if you fully charge the new battery before installing it into the car. A quick Google and perhaps this will explain more and why I prefer to fully charge the new battery before fitting. ( I do not recommend a CTEK because I think they are overpriced and not necessary for usual battery maintenance). - https://www.ctek.com/se/nyheter/why-your-alternator-is-not-enough-for-charging-your-12v-car-battery

Hi, welcome. What does it show on the dashboard to say you have a coolant problem. If you open the expansion cap when the car is warm/hot then there will be a pressure release and expansion of coolant (hence the name), be very careful about doing this when the engine is even warm let alone normal temperature or hot (see your car's Owner's Manual or I can link to a video and more video for more general Octavia info). There are specific model forums on Briskoda which have owners and info available for the models. You may be better looking at and/or asking there. - Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ If you want to you can also add your model and engine details to your nameplate thingy which those IIRC not on phones can see to see which sometimes helps some (unless you're referring to a different car). Here's mine as only an example. -

Postal address in email was Milton Keynes.

Hi, welcome. Any dash warnings, messages, symbols (amber/red-triangle-of-doom), proper gearstick location for starting, pressing the brake hard enough. There are so many possible reasons for this, gearlever switchy-thingy, immobiliser, connector wires, computers, brakes - if the car isn't telling you anything then you'll need an appropriate level VW scan tool with fully up to date program on it for your model and year of car. The battery has to be very, very low usually not to start the engine, before this often you get all sorts or unexpected issues and warnings sometimes for a good while too if you ignore them before the engine struggles to start. If you can give more info please do, and let us know how you get on. Others may be along with other ideas.

Thanks, I totally missed that concentrating on the other stuff. How very interesting. That mileage is different to what is shown on the Škoda "Complete record" I posted previously and different to the paper printed digital and actual handwritten (VWG) "Maintenance list" ticksheets my wife got at the time, they shown the mileage as 13,804. At the time my wife had signed up for a 2-year pay-in-advance "servicing" MoT so she didn't get a paper printed bill for this. As it was third party it got transferred the next year when the Dealership changed names (who knows if real owners or not). Even more interesting as my wife told me when she got home that when Škoda Service rang they wanted to know if she'd got the email and she had opened it and it covered what she wanted and then got a bit shirty when my wife said she'd not opened it and looked at the email attachment as it would be on her personal laptop at home and she was rang whilst at work. She hadn't put any other communication details on her email other than obviously it would include her email address to reply to, as this wasn't an urgent matter and I expected the usual receipt conformation and they're looking into it and it usually takes x-amount of days and so on. I expect they got my wife's mobile phone number from other records, though she's never contacted Škoda Customer Services that I know of, I was surprise to see they were down at Milton Keynes, not many miles from Northampton, but I expect the staff there aren't "customer-facing". This first service and response and follow up, just coincidence, great service (other than being shirty, both my wife and I have dealt with the general public, on phones and face-to-face for decades so know when staff or customers are being shirty) or does this mileage anomaly suggest a change of data holding or computers systems, external influence/interference, the Chinese/Russians/Trump. 😆 I'll ask my wife to contact them and ask for an explanation of the mileage adnominally.

That's a good achievement, the motor, mechanism and electrics are car related obviously but also not entirely car stuff. The Super Servisol 10 won't deal with burnt out contact but can be very useful on other jobs, as is the GT85 (and electrical contact cleaner) all of which I'd try just to get the window shut before disconnecting the switch at some point to stop the window being dropped until the issue is sort. Obviously a wiring diagram, VW appropriate scan tool, bi-directional scan tool perhaps, all might be useful. See here - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 Good luck.

Thanks, it was me that asked. So NAPA AFB096N (096 type, Start Stop, EFB, 5 Year Guarantee) 650 CCA (cold cranking amps) (to EN standard) and 70Ah. And IF required, for visual checks out of guarantee you can peel back the shiny sticky labels and get at the screw-in cell plugs to look at the 'water' (electrolyte) levels and conditions of plates in the battery's six cells. If Kwikfit 'coded' that battery correctly in August it should be fine and assuming the correct wheel sensor was fitted correctly and if required(?) 'coded' correctly then that also should be fine. If you want to, nothing to loose, you could disconnect the battery monitoring connector off the negative battery terminal clamp bit so see if that makes any odds (I doubt it but conformation of battery perhaps) you can soon reconnect it if you want. Or after the car has been sitting parked up for as many hours as possible put a multimeter directly on the battery terminal posts and tell us the voltage reading it gives. Still best to get a good scan report or better still diagnosis using scan tool, other diagnostic tools including human senses and knowledge, training, experience (and correct attitude to job and people, often sadly missing with paid professionals). FYI battery monitoring connector (if you want photos of how to disconnect just ask and I'll se if I can find them from previous thread(s)).

Thanks for the explanation. That seems another programming error to my (no-computing) mind. I think also some staff who book things in or deal with the booking also ask about "add-ins" yet have certainly forgotten maintenance items that are due - but not the unnecessary expensive cambelt change and recommended the water pump change! I couldn't get a good screen imagine at smaller size so here's the rest of the report. First two entries done by the Dealership my wife bought the car from s/h. As the salesman when buying was so reluctant to get a paper print off report to show previous servicing by this Dealership on their car I have always wondered if it was just a data entry rather than work ever done, also given the date of 31 December and note the difference in mileage between 31/12/2016 and 11/04/2017 (and on the sales paperwork at time of sale 10,301). Could just be a typo of course (perhaps when rushing to get it done at time of sale). I've never seen the "MPC" of 30/12/2016 and 11/04/2017 before, the "service" terminology/description is different and the "Delivery inspection", from when the car was new, shown on the "Compete record" is missing on this "Service History Certificate". In 2022 we tried an independent garage, but they balls'd-up the service entry anyway and said they couldn't change the entry, entered as inspection IIRC. It's another story why we had to go back to the Dealership for at least an MoT in 2023.

This explains our difficulty in understanding each other. I have no idea if there's any significance with with "GOOGLe-search or it's just typo(s) but I now seen what you meant, I had considered the logic that it might be my PC and/or Google Chrome but it only happened on the one forum page, a test would be this thread. No I didn't think to bother with a Goggle search. And I misunderstood what you meant, my mistake, I apologise for that. There, you might have learnt something from the ex or transferred Military there.

Communicate how you want when you want. Don't worry, it's a misunderstanding on my part.

My wife emailed Saturday, got a email back same day and got a phone call and email with PDF of "Service History Certificate" and in the email - "Please find attached the service history for the vehicle as requested. The information is provided by our network of Škoda Retailers and is correct to the best of our knowledge. Please note this information does not include any servicing or repairs that may have been completed independently from our network of authorised Škoda Retailers." which is fair enough. Very fast and good service I have to say. They must have heard of my looks, charm and modesty. 😁 I thought the service had been changed from Flexible to Fixed once out of manufacturer's warranty and the car's had the engine oil & filter "service" change every 12 months in our ownership (and if I can be arsed I might change the oil & filter twice a year now as I done the last (annual) engine oil & filter change on the car.

The need to go to 11 (Spinal Tap Marshall amp skit).

Thank you. You don't need to Google search for this facility in Google Chrome as it's already offered by clicking on the three vertical dots in a circle, this gives a drop down menu that includes 'Translate...' and Bob's yer relative. But I didn't do this it just appeared only on this one forum and nowhere else, but - So unless it returns that's the end of it and no harm done.

An excellent video, and from the days of learning from experience and admitting to mistakes, where did those days go, with the qualification and title often. 😆 Personally I would not use brake/parts (or carb) cleaner but specialist throttle body cleaner but each to their own, just one example and I too would remove the throttle body for better first time cleaning take all appropriate precautions - Liqui Moly Pro-Line Throttle Valve Cleaner - https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/pro-line-throttle-valve-cleaner-p000072.html#5111

The "power" gauge could be useful for many just to show how low the power is needed often to keep the car going and reduce the slavery ego figures.