nta16

A "service" is just an engine oil and filter change and a look-see for more chargeable work (the "free health check" often offered, if it's had a "full car road test" then that would show up on your milage (if you know what it was when you left the car with them. Who knows how many or much diagnostics checks actually get done, I'm not saying they don't do them but I can't remember seeing any evidence (perhaps I have and forgot, no printed evidence with my wife's 2015 car), For extended scope you might or might not be able to see evidence of the wheels being removed and doors lubricated (a job you'd probably do better yourself). As for £330 for a battery replacement you could possibly get it done twice or more elsewhere, including any necessary 'coding' if you own an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and fully recharge the battery with it after reading the car's Owner's Manual and charger maintainer's booklet instructions, if done properly you may well get much more good serviceable life out of the battery with just very occasional future preventative recharges using the charger maintainer - but of course I can't know this and you may prefer to change the battery anyway if it's the factory original. If you want I can scan in some Dealership "service" bills to show how they were for my wife's 2015 Fabia bills and put them up as images/photos here, just let me know. After decades of poor and very poor service, and being ripped-off, by some of those in the British (well English motor trade) and hearing stories from people I know who work/worked in the trade for decades I really dislike to see customers done down (of course not all customers are exactly angels i know this from decades of experience too).

Have I missed something, how did it pass an MoT if a seat belt (anchorage /stalk??) couldn't be tested? - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/7-other-equipment#section-7-1-2

Was their scan tool fully up to date for your model and year as a previous thread here had "000271 - Permanent Unknown fault code" which changed to lots more info once the scan tool program was updated. I would check elsewhere with an appropriate VW scan tool to see what codes come up (and to confirm battery and sensors 'coding' is correct. My wife's 2015 MK3 doesn't have separate individuals tyre pressure sensor as part of the tyre values, it is all off the wheel sensor. After the battery was fitted did you try starting the engine, then turn on your headlights and air-con and blower to 4 then turn the steering wheel to full lock in each direction and then go for a ride to see if this would clear warning lights, messages (and codes)? Some Briskoda members with VW appropriate scan tools can offer help for beer tokens, few others are professional service so will want more than beer tokens, see attached link to see if you can find anyone near you that can help. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 And never assume anything as that can be a very costly and time consuming way of diagnosis always check, double check, cross-reference only make assumptions if you must after full and complete checks. Good luck. Have a look at the appropriate videos of how this chap does diagnosis and then checks and cross-references the results of how it should be done. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354/videos

That is very common, in case you take your business elsewhere but it's a matter of minutes and seconds to get your email address or similar and 'post' the report to you. Whatever machine is used it needs to be up to date with your model and year of car. Different scan tools can give different results but communication errors should be on all of them, then they need to find out why there's no communication. Any engine starting issues and/or electric/electronic/computer issues you need the car's "12v" battery to be in an at least reasonable state of charge to keep the computers happy which is well below that to keep the headlights looking bright enough and far, far below the engine showing any difficulty or not starting. Looking for the issues and repeated attempts to start the car will drain the "12v" battery even more which is why they may have kept the engine running whilst doing any work - but testing or looking at at battery output is a primary check which you hope they would do, but might not. Checking the "12v" battery charge is very easy you do not need to be a mechanic or an electrician to do it (I'm neither) and it's been a basic primary check for mechanics and auto-electricians ever since cars got battery(ies) to start them and even more important now that the cars have so many modules, sensors and complex computer programs on them. Unfortunately good Dealerships/garages/mechanics/auto-electricians seem to be fewer and further between than they should be and usually have more work than they can cope with so have waits even longer than the poorer quality ones. The very first thing I would do is fully charge the "12v" battery with an appropriate charger maintainer with following the car's Owner's Manual and charger, maintainer's instructions. If the battery is really low this may take many hours. if the battery isn't too low it wont take too many hours. I would then look for a reliable person with an appropriate scan tool (checking it's fully updated for model and years, and it's battery is fully charged if it's not powered off the car battery. With a confirmed at least reasonable charged battery and a scan report or better still looking at live data to check things like alternator is charging properly and other stuff related to the car's issue(s) and then work from there. Just because you weren't given a report doesn't mean it wasn't saved to the machine and still available, if you paid for diagnosis then I don't think it's unreasonable for you to be given that report - but I'm not in the motor trade where customers are often treaded like something they've trod in that smells, of course on the other side not all customers are angels. I'm not sure you can be given much more info or advice than that already given but others might have more to offer and please ask any questions you want.

Yes VWŠkoda not having appropriate information for your vehicle based on your VIN yet again confirms that websites and databases even from manufacturers can't be fully trusted and the information needs checking and cross-referencing. I've no idea if the on line updates (updates, wot could possibly go wrong) apply to year, trim level, infotainment model so as not to confuse myself I bang up the portal and what's not applicable wont apply. I'll try to remember not to bother with Mk4s but my memory's not the best, as reliable as the VW update portal for your VIN. 😆

Hi welcome. There are a number of possibilities, unfortunately what you need is someone that is good and reliable at proper diagnosis of the problem which involves more than just plugging in an appropriate and fully up to date scan tool - is the local indie VW garage that type. You could look through the threads and posts on this forum (Skoda Fabia Mk III (2014-2021) for a 2019 with the same issue. Normally lots of lights on come from battery in too lower state of charge for the computers but that would not be a communication issue. If you paid the local VW indie for diagnosis (or even if not) they could give you the scan tool report to see what it has listed. If ECU is at fault then that might be a wire or connection faulty, got water on it perhaps, a faulty ECU, not the ECU at fault but other connection or communication. Ignition switches or other faults. You need the scan tool read out to see more then proper diagnostics to confirm, or deny, what the the VW indie garage has told you - I have no idea, they might be spot on, or not. Here is a link to a list of Briskoda members that may be able to offer you at least a report, best to ask for one with VCDS in this case, most for beer tokens but some as professional service so not beer tokens. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 If you are interested to find out for yourself this chap to me appears to do good diagnosis and cross-checking of that diagnosis and IIRC a few of his videos will cover similar to your situation. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354/videos Others might be along later with more info. Good luck.

I am not sure if this applies to your engine, but just in case it does, but it does not apply to engine intermittent starting. Whether this information only applies to UK and/or Europe I cannot remember, the information, or marketing, for your part of the world might be different. Just looking at a previous thread that D.FYLAKTOS has linked to I see that for the 135 and 136 MPI engines NGK list BKR6EIX (6418) (single, fine electrode) as the standard NGK plug for these engines (unless LPG which is a different plug).

ETA: Obviously whatever make of sparkplug you try it must be suitable for your engine set up, putting in an unsuitable NGK, Champion, Brisk, Bosch, etc. etc., make of spark plug will not give best results, so comparing, as examples only, an inappropriate say Champion plug against an appropriate say Bosch will make that appropriate Bosch plug better than the inappropriate Champion plug. As we say here, "it is horses for courses" - things need to be suitable/appropriate to each other, plug to engine set up.

Just to complete the set - I would always favour (genuine, apparently there are fakes being sold) NGK spark plugs, certainty over Bosch and Champion, I had used Champion for many years but found NGK better. I did once try the (Bosch) three prong but did not find there to be of any gain. I have never heard of Brisk let alone used them so can't comment on them. For later models apparently the VW box labelled spark plugs are NGK inside the box. As a general rule anything electronic like sensors I would always favour Japanese built over Germany built (or German labelled but perhaps built elsewhere) but as I put before it seems this age of VW is happier with the specific sensors generally and if that is Bosch (or Bosch labelled) then so be it.

Hi, welcome. You will find a 2022 car quite a bit different to a 2005 car in some good ways, and some not quite so good. I recommend with it's previous 2.5 years of low use that you make sure it's had two engine oil & filter changes (lower mileage is more wearing) and all service and maintenance work is done based on time rather than mileage. If you can get the seller to do any outstanding servicing and maintenance work, great. As we get threads about car batteries now only lasting 4 years (or even 3) because and battery use by owners combined with often short journeys I would also recommend if it hasn't had a new 12v battery fitted recently that you invest in an appropriate battery charger maintainer and when required do preventative charges with it, after reading the Owner's Manual for your car and the instructions for the charger, that way you will get a much, much longer useful life out of the expensive battery. Some links you will hopefully find useful. VWŠkoda free pdf downloads of their Owner's Manuals. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models VWŠkoda system updates portal. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ VWŠkoda recall campaigns. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Just one example (other makes and suppliers are available) of a suitable (4-amp) charger, maintainer. - Ring 4A SmartCharge 904 - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html

Well done to you and your brother for sorting your mums VW. Your brother's mate is a big beer drinker! They reckon you should also change the seal, but I wonder if that's necessary if you're careful with it and it's not too old or too much use I also wonder if the throttle body computer settings would sort themselves but given your mum will be driving best to clear all and everything so it runs as she expects the second she starts driving it, as is very reasonable. As long as the s/h one isn't from the same batch as your mum's car it should be fine for a good number of years. Tell your brother to keep in with his mate as you might need access to a VCDS type tool again. Thanks for reporting back, all the information and outcome. Good luck.

I have never used one so do not know how good they are but you can get a variety of fibreglass pen bushes, that you use on that corrosion first then use a spray electrical contact cleaner and when that has dried away use something like Contralube 770 to offer more protection. - https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/contralube-770-the-terminal-connector

Yeah same as start/stop or we can deactivate the front "assist" via a menu on the the infotainment, just wonder what would be said if we had a serious incident at the front of the car, I've no idea just wondering. My neighbour's 2023 Ren-No! Nissan that I drive has some sort of lane "assist" which you can switch on or off but part of it always remains on, just lights up amber and a little nudge on steering wheel and perhaps lift off acceleration (not sure about that) . I've shown my neighbour a few times how interment that system is, driving down the white line, dum. dum, dum on the cat's eyes and nothing yet a bit further down the road driving in the centre of the lane a leaf on a bush 15 foot back from the road edge flutters and system is startled. Marvellous wot cump'ters can do.

Updates to computer programs, "wot could possibly go wrong!". Even though I always recommend having up to date programs I do sometimes wonder if sometimes having previous programs/updates might be better being a Microsh*t user I'm used to having to go back to a previous restore to get shot of the latest update that has nothing wrong with the update and it's all my or my computer's fault but has caused an issue. Another thought, though I dislike the driver "aids" on modern vehicles and really dislike "assist" like lane departure I do wonder what the insurance companies would say if they're made inactive by use of going into the car's computer programs, but I've no idea.

Often down to laziness (dare I suggest particularly with professionals with devices that hold around 150+ different vehicle manufacturers, bit like keeping cordless devices batteries charged so they don't run out half way through a job, or even flat before starting the job).

What do you want to do, if it's very specific then probably the VCDS system would be best but it is limited to VW products and I think (don't know for sure) sometimes(?) limited to three VINs. You can look at or asking in the VCDS section, some coding there too, or look at or contact the suppliers/manufacturers if you can't see what you want listed in the sales blurb or in the operating manuals. What ever system you get before using it each time you need to make sure it is fully updated for your model and year of vehicle. Generally all scan tools seem to have their good and bad points, personally I think the VCDS presentation on the screen is hideous but I'm not into computers or computer programming at all or remembering legacy system and their numbers (i struggle to remember my age). Then the stuff from China with the popular names can have some interesting text phrasing and I've seen at least one young lad use one on a job where he was told only a Dealership level tool would do it but his Chinese origin machine did the job without going through loads of menu(s) selections.

Hi, welcome. Sorry I've no idea but if you've not already found out you'd be better asking on the 'Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)', very much more traffic there too. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ Good luck.

An easy way to check the ground/earth is to use a sufficiently thick jump cable from the battery negative terminal to a good earth point on the engine, if the engine starts quicker/better this way then you know you do not have a good earth connection to the engine from the battery and/or chassis. Even if this test makes no difference you still want to check the earth wires and cables in case they are intermittent. Before putting the engine back into the engine bay is a good time to remove inspect and clean (or replace as required) the engine and battery main earth cables. Good luck.

Cables, wires, connectors (including all earths) all need to be in good or reasonable condition all clean, secure and protected, For diagnosis of an electrical/electronic and/or starting problem you are best to have the 12v battery fully charged and in a good state of heath and connection(s) or at very least reasonable in all. As proven by the corrasion you have highlighted in your photo, corrosion like that in various places could be the cause of your problem - all needs to be clean, secure and protected (otherwise the corrosion may return) All sensor need to be in good or reasonable condition and correct for the specific vehicle (or engine if engine change). Just because a part is new doesn't rule out it possibly being faulty or perhaps incorrect for vehicle/engine. For cars of this age they can be fastidious about the sensors fitted. I remember well an owner oh here having problems starting the engine (in very cold) and all other posters, including me, thought the starter motor sounded fine in his video but it was the starter at fault. Now I am not saying either of your starters are at faulty, I could not know over the internet anyway, but if the fitting or wiring to it, or anywhere else has an issue it could present this yes/no to starting the engine. You need to do proper diagnostics, using your eyes, ears, nose, feel, taste, brain / common sense and use of any other diagnostic tools you can get or make. For electrics on starting the engine you could start at the battery and go forward from there, a multimeter would be handy (as might be a scan tool) but the previously mentioned diagnostics tools are needed regardless. Another person with you might notice something obvious you have missed, often these problems can relate to something simple and basic that has ben overlooked or ignored or not checked, or not double/treble-checked or thoroughly enough. Something like a bit of crud/corrosion on the inside of a battery terminal clamp if missed will still play up even with a change of battery (and (I am not saying this is your problem, how could I). Either follow previous suggestions or start a clear path of diagnostics and stick with that path and double and treble check as required and make no assumptions. There may be more than one issue combined or separately contributing to the issue so if you want to know the cause(s) then do not be changing more than one part at once and do not assume that an existing or replaced part was fully working correctly even if it was working or that it was fully correctly fitted. Check and cross -reference any existing parts are correct and working correctly, or not, before putting on a new same part and how it is fitted. Good luck.

John, I very much doubt if you'll have any issues just don't do the job like a lazy or oppressed professional short of time and 'can-be-arsed'. The washer that VW use is fine but I've used flat copper washers, flat other metal, crush type of both, washers on other vehicles for decades and never had a leak from the sump plug / washer / area, they are rarely the origin of any leaks that drip from there. Many service parts quality has dropped over the years and decades including I'd suggest sump plugs and washers. Last month I used the first of the 10 febi (bilstein) plugs with fixed (flat) washer and I though by the look of the sump plug possibly it's made elsewhere than Germany, or like the quality of German cars have dropped. I didn't notice any issues when checking after a week or so of regular car and engine use. febi bilstein 39733 Sealing Ring for oil drain plug - https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/39733?make=Škoda&model=Fabia+III+2014+-+2022&vehicle=1.2+TSI+16V+-+66+kW+%2F+90+hp febi bilstein 48873 Oil Drain Plug without seal ring - https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/48873?make=Škoda&model=Fabia+III+2014+-+2022&vehicle=1.2+TSI+16V+-+66+kW+%2F+90+hp febi bilstein 48871 Oil Drain Plug with sealing ring - https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/48871 I can recommend the Mann W 712/95 oil filter, I was impressed with it. Cheers.

Found the thread. Photo below shows for 2015 1.2 TSI CJZC engine. N90813202 - is what I called 'factory' with integral / fixed washer and greater thread length N90288901 - is (shorter) sump plug only N0138157 - is washer only a suitable washer with IIRC 14 mm ID would do. Another view of top plug c/w washer (different supplier). An alternative set up plug and copper washer, plenty of combinations and singles choices out there.

Which engine? I've definitely posted here about sump plug and washers, and IIRC put up photos, for 2015 1.2 TSI CJZC engine. I got fed up with chasing the washer and just bought ten factory fit plugs with integral washer, also available in 5 or 1 from someone on eBay, I can post a link if your engine uses the same sump plug.

IF the unit I put up is the one in @Doily Fabia then the following video shows reset is turn on ignition, push and hold both buttons for a couple of seconds, middle button and far right button. If that doesn't work the second video for Mk3 Fabia shows holding three buttons , adding in the "AUTO" button. - Second video. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AcUAXJrmnY HTH.

Sod's Law - would the front vent button be one of the buttons marked 12 to 17 (14. 15?)?

So buttons 18 and which other please (not that I'll remember for long)?