nta16

Cars are of no real cause for any real concern or worry, just lumps of metal - and now lots of plastics and marvellous(?) computers and computer programming and modules and sensors and thin wires, wot could possibly go wrong. You've no need to add to the the profits and work of the dubious British motor trade or the economy of this country and others as I've done lots, more than enough of that already to cover you not contributing too much (I had the t-shirt too but it fell apart). Just concern yourself with your physical and mental health and that of others you care about, there's always lots of opportunities for unsatisfying, and always ultimately fruitless farting about with cars and those opportunities will multiply in the future so you needn't miss out and can take a break anytime for any length of time (forever would be very good idea). Things that seem very important at some points in life later may become difficult to remember let alone recognise as being of any real importance, to the vast majority that would be cars, 19th century technology with some 20th century technology, often clumsily, added. Look up 1980s Škoda jokes, some were very good and inventive, only way to be about any car no matter which. Now where's me hoop 'n; stick from me big Lottery win . . .

Have a look in your car's Owner's Manual and see where the Interior temperature sensor is (11) and make sure it's not covered or has fluff or other stuff the other side of the plastic grille, if required clean it out as appropriate. Free VWŠkoda pdf downloads of Owner's Manuals here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models With VW cars now my first thought is is it one of the computers (programs) having a brain-fart so the old "switch it off 'n' on agen" in this case perhaps a reset of the climatic controls (programs?) by IIRC holding certain buttons on it for a certain time and the internal flaps go through a little sequence and reset themselves and no doubt other marvellous(?) computer stuff, they're marvellous(?) things ain't they, computers and computer programs. I can't remember which buttons and for how long but if I'm right the info will be in this forum, just do a forum search, or Google search which will probably get you to posts this forum. Otherwise an appropriate scan tool might be required (fully updated for your model and year of car to perhaps see wot's-up. Some Briskoda members offer help for beer tokens, some others might offer professional services with different reward structures. Have a look here. - HTH.

You might be better looking at and/or posting in the 'Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)' forum, it might help to give more information or answer any questions to help with diagnosis. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/

Have look at those vids doing diagnostic checks can involve simple things like your humans senses (and 'common sense' often forgotten by paid professionals) perhaps borrow a multimeter if you don't have wire and light perhaps. Lots of basic checks (also often forgotten or ignored by paid professionals) can often be carried out with just the car's 12v battery in reasonable state of charge and health. But I can understand you being ****ed-off with the car and wanting a break from the problems it's giving you (been there more times than you can imagine) - if you don't really need to use the car then take a break from it, keep the battery charged and things shouldn't get worse (unless it's a water leaking in issue or affected more by colder weather). Unless you've got some ort of vehicle recovery official or informal I'd be careful about using the car with dodgy electrics/electronics/computers in case you get a total no-go situation, unless you have experience of unreliable cars and the 'joys' of roadside "repairs" or recovery, Sod's Law they never happen in the dry and daylight or with the car sitting in a pub car park (although I have had the last one but didn't feel like drinking at the time even though I could have as I had a wait and certainly wasn't going to drive the car home though I had the experience to be able to). Good luck, let us know how you get on. I've a mobile phone repair kit you can borrow, 2lb lump hammer and thick 4" nail.

The Dealership won't be using a better quality oil, they if they're honest(?) they will be using what meets the standards, being at a college you might know about what passes standards and how it can be bettered for higher requirements, better oils work better and offer better and wider protection margins at hotter running and very cold starts, they don't need marketing labels like Long Life but they might have it. If you're only using the car as mainly a commuting shopping trolley with occasional runs near like a VRs was designed for then standard Dealership standards will be hopefully meeting the minimum requirements (subject perhaps to more frequent oil changes if you intend keeping the engine a long time). As you've only had the car a few months you probably don't know that much about its servicing and maintenance history other than perhaps the sparse content of "servicing" Dealer "stamps" work which hopefully is up to the sparse VW "servicing and maintenance" schedule, let alone know how previous owner(s) have driven and treated the car. Now you've driven it a little while you should have a feel for any priority requirements on the car (filter light as one example). Engine oil (and oil filter) change, engine oil oil filter, spark plugs are just relatively unimportant engine stuff. Much more important is brakes, steering and suspension - all three include tyres one of the most important components on a vehicle - after of course brakes (discs, pads, fluid), then it's lights (reflective number plates) and windows, mirrors - see and be seen in day and night light. Engine is after all of those. For lights, wipers, air-con, horn, starting the engine, keeping the computers happy a 12v battery in good state of charge (and health) is very useful, especially as we approach the colder days and longer nights when the recovery services get even more call out for "battery" problems (rarely the battery's fault) and batteries are in lower stocks on the shelves at the first and second cold snaps of winter (same time you can't get anyone to look at boilers and plumbing work because they're too busy). If you're old enough you'll know about using a battery charger maintainer to give you more choice about when you want to, or need to, change the car's 12v battery or extend it's life to save the expense and hassle so soon or frequently. Asking the Dealership to test the battery usually gives two results, "it's fine" or "it needs changing, £250-£300(?)", the answer might depend on who you get and/or the Dealerships work and battery stock levels, I doubt they'd suggest you using a battery charger maintainer to pick the battery back up and get as much life as practical out of it. Or you might want to find out for yourself if those that say short journeys don't matter on modern cars with their clever alternators doing all the necessary work (despite all the numerous threads on here showing otherwise. Wot's it they used to say, something like proper preparation prevents ****-poor performance, depends on the learning establishment I expect, American marketing speak b*ll*ck used to be such a good source of humour (quite frightening when you still hear it from certain quarter now but that's another subject of pain altogether. BTW - by spirited driving none of the posters here now including me would mean anything that is even slightly out of place on public roads whether, no passenger(s), 20 year old passenger, 2 year old passenger, to do anything very slightly silly you should keep it to closed-track driving where only you pay for any mistakes or accidents of any sort.

So it is a diesel. 😆 I think you were joking, so was I. Problem with modern more powerful vehicles is that you can't really push them that much on our roads and at legal speeds, smaller, less powerful engines make it so much easier (and to me much more fun). How about load the car up to its maximum carrying weight (after adjusting tyre pressures) and take the car to the many steep climbs not too far from the motor city to make the car work harder at legal speeds, making use of the steering wheel, gear lever, gears and brake when required. Or do the same after a drive up the motorways to Scotland. I'd sooner burn £168 on petrol and food (and sensible amount of ale with driving) than give it to the Dealers/garages/mechanics. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

I've no idea about VCDS but generally you always want the latest version updated/up to date versions of any programs (for your model and year of VW) to reduce risks of any program errors omissions on diagnostic tool. If you've not already tried, I've seen Ross-Tech do info and have a users forum which may give help. I forget which vids but similar sort of issue(s) diagnostic path(s) with checking and cross-checking of scan tool info are on this blokes YT channel (personally I wouldn't trust some auto-electricians and mains electricians as far as I could throw them, just what I've seen and personal experience employing and working with some mains electricians), Milligan Auto Diagnostics - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354/videos

Apologies for some reason I thought diesel, I've not seen what works well with clearing the PPF but good start is to follow the instructions in the Owner's Manual for the car which looks like the good old "Italian tune-up" with a bit of fully off accelerator which you might do on a twisty road before pushing the brake pedal, or perhaps accelerator again, to set the car up for a bend, rather than totally always relying on VRs electronics and driver "aids" and "assist", little point having a VRs if the driver isn't actually going to drive the car sometimes rather than the other way round. Other points about getting the engine oil temperature to 90c (and more), better quality fuel (more choice with petrol), better engine oil and more frequent changes, and cleanliness of engine air filter and intake still stand plus timely check and changes of spark plugs. I've no idea if the following is still up to date, just petrols with more cleaning additives packages to the petrol (and higher octane ratings). petrol.pdf

forgot this -

I'm, as you can imagine, quite unusual her in that I've never liked VW products (except perhaps a Mk1Golf GTi) or generally the other German marques. All have been of diminishing quality from last century/millennium. Audis of the 70s, 80, 90s were like the SAAB and Volvos of the time better quality marques and products but from the original TT a club member had that was with the manufacturer most of the first 18 months of his ownership while they sorted the various problems with the model I was put off them. A former neighbour that dealt with cars and later picked up various cars told me (modern) Audis were the best to drive but you'd not want one out of warranty (only 3 years unlike some "cheaper" manufacturers that offer 7 (same as VW in Australia apparently). And seeing a modern Bentley under the skin, all the VAG markings on lots of VAG plastic. The MK3 Fabia isn't a bad car and one or two up my wife's 1.2 4-pot turbo engine goes very well engine wise despite . . . deleted the list of faults on my wife's 2015 as some or perhaps even all of them might not apply, I'll keep positive. With the start/stop I was thinking more of battery and following Xmas tree dash warning lights (despite the headlights seeming bright enough and engine starting OK). I don't know about the DSG box ,not something that ever appealed to me, but you might as well have it particularly with the more modern models with eco settings and 6 (and 7 or more) gears, even on manual boxes. I drive a neighbour's 2023 Ren-No! Nissan Cashcow with 6-speed manual and the computers on that have the same fault of stalling instead of nippy, whether it's the electronic handbrake with Hold to clutch pedal on start/stop computer programs that makes things too complicated when combined for the computer programs I don't know but with the front and lane "assists" after the roundabout on a clear-ish dual-carriageway there was a hesitation before full acceleration kicked in. All the computer programs and driver "aids" and "assists" act like a very nervous passenger that can suddenly cry out, often unnecessary or spurious, warnings, or taking over the steering, and brakes from the driver (or now more and more like passenger-behind-the-steering-wheel instead of driver). Until a couple of years ago for the previous 16 years my one and only "everyday" car was a 1973 MG Midget and for 30+ years years I owned and drove various (British) "classic" (over-priced, over-valued, old) cars for work, commuting (300 and 500 miles a week for many months one time), holidays in UK and some bits of Europe, and car club events, so I'm not usual type of owner. I never had any problems with my new and s/h Japanese cars. My wife's mum had a VW (Golf Mk2, start of them being lardy) and mates have had a few VWs (and BMWs and Mercs) - I suffered enough with the old (and new or new-ish) British cars not to need to get any German ones (unless you count smart before Daimler-Benz set up down the road from here in 2000) BMW nicked the idea of boutique selling, at their snotty Dealerships, and later Fiat stealing the smart interior styling for the reissue of the 500 (both, even more, BIG heavy cars now). You can also disable the start/stop by disconnecting the connector on the negative battery terminal, which might also help the battery. Even if the battery is original you might extended its reliable service use by using an appropriate battery charger maintainer to, fully, recharge it, best with 2, 3, or 4-amp charger so lower and slower to go deeper and longer. I've done it many times, even recently but going back over decades, for friends and mainly neighbours. As you know the 12v battery is one of, if not the most, oversold car parts, often prematurely or very prematurely and involved in the number one cause of breakdown call outs. Original battery if same as in my wife's 2015 could be a Moll (EFB), entered at factory as JCB, serial number as 1111111111 (ten ones, as many other owners have same), 59Ah, I forget what CCA number and test type. I'd never swap a Toyota for a VAG but I doubt if even a new Yaris would be as reliable and long lasting as 15 years ago. BTW I'm not an expert in anything and non-mechanical and only worked in the motor trade for two weeks as I couldn't stand the way they treated their customers (like something with a strong smell they'd just trodden in) particularly the "service" manager.

Breezy-Pete is often right and a good source of information and advice on such matters.

Hi, welcome. Should I give you a lecture. 😁 I'll keep it short. Modern diesel or petrol cars aren't good for short journey, round town use, and a waste having a VRS and 245. I'd not expect 30 minutes of driving to be of much use to clear things particularly if it's not a solid 30 minutes of high revs and higher speed as possible/allowed. You would need to take your car out late at night when the roads and motorways have a lot less traffic and many miles of motorway higher revs driving or A-roads higher revs in lower gears. Changing the oil more often than once a year (and using better quality engine oil) would might help. Changing the engine air filter more often and cleaning the intake box and tubing (depends on your environment air quality. Using (the oxymoron) "cleaner" diesel fuel, at all or more often will help. Longer and more frequent blow-out runs. Changing your car. First thing you could try is after fully warming the engine, engine oil temperature at 90c, go for a much longer run, at high speeds at higher revs on a fill up with something like Shell V-Power diesel. If that does no better then you need an appropriate scan tool that had its program(s) fully updated for your model and year of VW car and see exactly what the situation is preferably from live data. A Briskoda member may be able to help you with a suitable appropriate scan tool, some for beer tokens some other may be full professional services (at appropriate rates), see here. - If you're doing lots of short journeys you may be starting to upset the car's computer programs by letting the battery get into a too lower state of charge for them even the rest of the car can cope with the lower state of charge, at some point they will make you suffer for it. To prevent this if you're not driving the car enough to recharge the battery then the use of an appropriate battery charger and maintainer to fully recharge the battery may well be required. Obviously, when required, preventative rechargers are better than getting the battery into a similar position as the PDF. Fully recharge the battery with an appropriate charger maintainer after reading the Owner's Manual for your car and the charger instructions. Lower (amps), slower charging is best, which takes longer, but can be done in more than one session if required. Just one example, other makes and suppliers are available. - 4A SmartCharge 904 - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html From VWŠkoda free downloadable pdf copies of Owner's manuals. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020) forum section of this site for detailed advice and information on your model. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ HTH.

Sometimes you can just look and listen and/or feel if a mechanism is having difficulty. Though you may need more(?) heavy duty(?) lubricant if grease is involved here is my favoured spray product for maintenance and repair (better than WD-40 but unfortunately, to my mind, now owned by that invasive large American Corporation WD-40 Company), I first used it in the 1980s,.it's good as a penetrating/releasing/cleaning agent and (better and longer lasting than WD-40) lubricant (smells nice too). - GT85 - https://gt85.co.uk/

ETA: there's a scraper inside the fuel filler cap or you can use other, doing the job manually is very reliable and you can do the whole of the rear window and the other windows and door mirrors on the car as required.

Hi, welcome. Just to confirm, fuse 41, F41 location in fuse box, in VW manuals is stated as "Heated rear window" - "30a", "30 A - green/pink" (assuming this is correct information from VW).

ETA: quick Google and top of page is following, it's from USA so I don't know if it applies in your dad's car but just in case and it gives an example of what I meant above. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10180551-0001.pdf MC-10180551-0001.pdf

Hi, welcome. Also, if you've not already done so, do make sure you OBDEleven program(s) for the 2015 Fabia Mk3 are fully up to date. If it's not just expected wear 'n' tear (from lower quality VW parts) or the car has been in harsh environment, had rough treatment, badly looked after by your dad (as excuses for lower quality parts) then I don't know if OBDEleven offer technical bulletin type of info from their users use or other databases or users' forum(s) that might deal with the issue your dad's has, you'd hope a local VW specialist would have checked for this type of info but I'd not rely on them having done so. Let us know how you get on please.

You'll be keeping your hand in with buying her a 2016 VWŠkoda Fabia Mk3, what on earth did she do to upset you. 😆 You might find some build and parts quality differences between 2012 and 2016. As a start/stop your daughter is best keeping an eye on the state of charge (and health) of the 12v battery as it's easy to miss the battery getting to low for the computers and some ignore the signs until literally the "idiot" lights and warnings appears and then carry on because the lights seem bright enough and the engine starts -"so it can't be the battery" . Get your daughter to buy an appropriate battery charge, read the car's Owner's Manual and charger instructions and when required do preventative recharges using the appropriate charger. Or buy a new battery, fit it and code it as soon as possible and then as often as required. Unless you've already taught your daughter all this, then get her looking after your car for payback time, 😁 Good luck. In case you don't know there's a 'Diagnostics & VCDS' section to this site (and of course 'Škoda Roomster' section). In the 'Škoda Fabia' is a 'Skoda Fabia Guides' forum, if you've not seen it it may or may not have a more recent guide to cruise control installation, same with 'coding' perhaps in the VCDS forum (I'd not know as personally I'd not want cruise control or to add anymore complications and potential faults(?) than it already has to my wife's 2015). Some of the following links might be helpful to you and/or your daughter. All the best to you both. Diagnostics & VCDS section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ Škoda Roomster section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/172-škoda-roomster/ 'Skoda Fabia Guides' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/167-skoda-fabia-guides/ Škoda Owner's Manuals, free VWŠkoda pdf downloads. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Update portal. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Škoda Recall Campaigns (well the few VW admit to) there was one for "battery management that might (or might not) apply to your daughter's 2016, recall 97UC IIRC. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

https://www.willtheyfit.com/

Whatever colour covering that wire has all other earth wires (that are covered and not just uncovered) should be the same, subject to them being original wiring from factory. With vehicles that are decades old there is always possibilities of factory wiring to have been messed about with and/or additional wiring added which may not confirm to factory colours or layout. Having put that you need a wiring diagram, obviously it is best to be for your model and year of vehicle with whatever changes or factory deviations or extras that were available and for your sales region. Others will know what diagrams are available and where you might access or buy them from. Also note errors and omissions seem to be on most/all databases even from factory/manufacturer but by now others would know of any common errors or omissions. Example on later VWŠkoda models the fuse box diagrams in the VWŠkoda Owner's Manuals may have errors. Also never assume just because a part is new that it can't have a faulty and not be working properly or fully just because it works and that the previous part was fitted correctly just because it worked previously, always check and where possible test parts before fitting and check the existing fitting arrangement is correct. I've know owners who have had and used vehicles for decades, not just years, and not know that something is fitted wrong (or differently) or operating something wrongly because it's fitted wrongly and these were very capable people knowing a lot more than me but they were only used to their own example of the vehicle and hadn't fully consulted other points of reference information. I'm not an expert in anything, certainty not a mechanic or electrician but until a couple of years ago I ran various (British) "classics" (old over-priced and over-valued) carsas dailies, for work, commuting, holidays and club events for 30+ years so I have some experience. And others here run or own Felicas so have lots of actual real world experience of the model.

Good work on finding this but sorry about the result. I wonder if the under warranty replacement of a parts was just easier and more profitable under warranty for the garage(s) than a simple clean to resolve, and of course prevention of it happening again, the basic all connections and wires clean, secure and protected. GT85 also drives out moisture - note when I emailed the owners of GT85, used to be British but now owned by a large invasive American Corporation called WD-40 Company, they replied that GT85 hadn't been tested but WD-40 had, but I've used it on electrics and someone else with a car YT channel that I put on to GT85 has used it without issue. Anyway cleaning and protecting the fuse box may be all that's required, or it may also need simple repair. Or of course it may need more complex repair or replacement obviously I don't know. Any spraying of electrics is best done with battery disconnected, which you'd have to do to remove box for repair or replacement anyway. On disconnecting the battery I also like to drain the disconnected circuits to mini-reset as much as possible the computers as I see that as a bit of electronic cleaning too but perhaps that's just me as I feel the computers need a good booting. 😁 If it's the fusebox it's pretty poor show on VW's part, I wonder if there have been enough customer/garages reports of this for VW to have in-house technical sheet on it, not that VW would tell you anyway but some on here seem to have access to, or find, such stuff. Good luck, keep letting us know how you get on.

Apologies that does play, Daft ones, clutching at straws, did you change the key battery and/or synchronise the remote/keyblade? Is your car KESSY less? Intermittent problems are even more of a PITA, sounds like you put keyblade into ignition barrel/switch, have checked its connections and wires? Tried using the other remote/keyblade? Always better to ask and/or do something twice than not ask and not do something or check it again. Sometimes a second pair of eyes (ears, nose, hands, brain) with you at the time can help (and sometimes not) with something you might miss.

"Coming to a road near you." - they drive among us - lets hope not. :yikes:

Wire terminals (what connects the wire to the unit/instrument) possibly "spade" connector of some sort on to a male connector "blade" or perhaps visa-versa sometimes on some stuff. All connectors, terminals, wires need to be clean, secure and protected - a loose or dirty connector can be enough to cause thing to be intermittent or faulty or not working, same for earth connectors. These are basic checks required by driver to highest level of specialist professional, sometimes even high level specialist with very sexy and expensive tools end up wiggling wires and connectors to check for faulty wires and connections. Easiest to to take a connector off, this can check it security of mounting, visually check it's clean or just spray with electrical spray cleaner to be sure anyway and perhaps use a multimeter to test supply /wiring readings to compare with what is expected and work back/forward from there. The fuel gauge arrangement is certainly more complicated than I expected but the basics of checking remain the same, check, double check, cross-check, record, check all, be methodical work back or forward on each connector/wire as required. I only know the very basics but others here know lots more. Good luck.