nta16

From table - "Approximative oil capacity with oil filter change". - This is assuming the table is correct with all the information it gives, which it may or may not be, even if the source is the engine manufacturer. You are either going to buy 3 or 4 (as appropriate) 1 litre bottles or a 4 or 5 litre 'can' depending on how much oil the engine wastes between fills or the large 'cans' may work out more economical, if not as easy to pour into the engine. You don't want to damage the engine but there's no need to baby or pamper it (or it's computer programs).

Hopefully that has sorted things, now you have the reader you can check for any error code returns, I think it's a good idea to record the scan then delete any and all error codes every time. Each scan tool or scan tool company programs have their faults and seem to find odd different things to report so you aren't sure if it's the car or the scan tool having a brain-fart but if they delete and don't return or they're not serious or invasive you can generally forget them, especially on a 19 year old car and computer systems. Depends on traffic of course but motorways or dual-carriageways are better for a car to maintain a more constant speed and less gear changes (gears/clutch) and braking, better preparation for climbing or descending hills, steadier airflow if overheating might be an issue, often a better place to breakdown on or get to somewhere like a petrol station or other. To close/conclude this thread - which App did you get?

Did you look at the box or plugs, IIRC they're NGK anyway. regardless a good price for installation.

You're going to have to be in a right state not to outlast a 2010 VW, perhaps if it were a 2005 or earlier (last century/millennium) it might stand of outlasting you! 🙂 3.5 might include or exclude oil filter and usually refers to a dry fill that isn't possible unless at factory or the engine has been fully pulled apart cleaned and dried on the draining board. I've done a few engine, gearbox and axle oil (and coolant) changes over the decades and getting the oil as hot as possible, with drain holes usually at the very bottom, leaving as long as practical as possible to drain, there was lots/plenty of residue oil (and muck) is left in, Refill quantity is always less than is quoted in databases. Each change is only partial the aim only to be as much as practically possible each time. A cold quick change will also get a bit less than a very hot long drain. I saw that you got 3l of oil out using your suckytub through the dipstick hole that seems good going so if you put about 3l or a bit less back in that should be good. Depends which warning lights and alarms you mean but it might be one of the computer programs or sensors has now got a headache, they're very easy to upset, if it was me unless it was low oil pressure I'd leave the engine idling for a while and check the warning lights and gauges and/or take the car for a quick drive as the computers can get over things and settle down, mechanical checks like oil on dipstick are more usually more accurate and more reliable. I almost feel off my chair when I saw the price of the TP69 but then I remembered the cost of my 30 year old Hozelok plastic pump-spray thing all those years back, that'll have to outlast me as I'm not paying to replace that! 😄

Quick thoughts. Any chance the end of the suction tube is stuck down the dip hole hole of further? Couldn't you mechanic mate just remove the brass drain valve to have the drain hole fully open for draining? Do your quantities include or exclude the oil filter? Fill capacity obviously is related to drain capacity at the time various people will get various amounts by various methods but your figures cover a very wide range, your sucking out quantity seems high, what is the dry fill capacity of your engine? That's all.

ETA: I've just thought - you might be dealing with the car issue(s) on the Fabia Mk1 forum and want to leave this thread to your thread title, which I can't help you with but others can, in which case ignore my previous post.

Yes things are more difficult away from home and Sod's Law that's when things go wrong all you can do is use what is available and you can get hold of in time. You can check the basics like all electric and hose and other (air, fuel, etc.) connections are tight and secure, nothing rubbing or frayed and look for leaks. You always have yourself as a tool and diagnostic kits, then you can usually buy or borrow basic tools or seek help from others there, paid or unpaid, tools, parts and materials can be posted/delivered to you perhaps as you were with the app and you got the coil pack(?). To help avoid other issues you could prepare the car as much as possible for the journey back and pick an unstressful route as possible back, have oil, coolant, washer fluid, fuel, tyres, etc. all fully topped up, reduce electric load and if required road speed whilst keeping up cooling air flow to engine. As you have a 105 I guess you might know a bit about roadside repairs and getting home. What was the car getting hot and when was the misfire happening and what lead to to buy a new coil pack?

It may have to be an equivalent standard and similar cost as LightE probably lives outside the UK with "Living in a fairly warm place (mostly 30c+)" from the opening post but still a good point made.

It depends on how you arrived at the conclusion that the coil pack was likely culprit and why the car was so hot as to whether you have got a correct conclusion. I might be misunderstanding because of lack of details (and I not knowing much technical stuff) but you seem to be putting the cart before the horse (doing things backward). Scan tools of whatever make model or sort are only one diagnostic tool (nor error codes always) though they can sometimes pinpoint the source of the problem this is not always, they're not a magic bullet or diagnostics and checks and confirmation need to be made to also check that there isn't more than one source of the issue or even more issues. I think you might be better asking in the Fabia Mk1 forum which apps VRS owners use and to perhaps check your diagnosis. Whatever scan tool you use you do want to ensure it can deal with your VW model and that the program for that model is always up to date with updates to it also always consider that the scan tool or app could have errors or give erroneous information or readings so always counter check any diagnosis and where possible pre-test any testing tools before carrying out tests with them, a lot of hassle time and money can be wasted on machines and computer programs giving false results or not working correctly or at all. Never neglect mundane basic checks just because you have sexy tools available. You didn't need a scan tool to tell you that the engine had an intermittent misfire that (I presume) came from your senses of sight, touch (feel) and perhaps hearing, you can also, where appropriate, use your eyes, nose, taste. For finding which coil is bad (if it is) with cautions so you don't damage yourself (very most importance) or the car (important but very, very much less so) you could follow what's done in the following video, without enough caution(s). - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe-XWsTI9Lo HTH.

Unusually for me I didn't miss that, it's a language thing, I think sparticus-84 will know what I mean by the phrase would be handy, literal and non-literal meanings.

You are best to check your tyre pressures with an accurate reliable gauge, these can be very inexpensive to buy and use the same gauge to check the four tyres when the tyres are 'cold' this is usually early morning before the sun is on on them or at later night when the car has not been driven for a while. Check the four tyres with your accurate reliable gauge as above and get the tyres to the tyre pressures in the first column(s) settings for your wheel size and drive around for a few days at that setting and see how it suits your driving, environment and vehicle use then inflate the four tyres to the 'Eco' pressures and drive around for a few days at those settings to see which your prefer or is best for your driving, environment and vehicle use. Tyres are a very underrated but important component in the braking, steering and suspension systems on the car, despite all the electronics and computer programs they are the only four small patches of 'rubber' in contact with the driving surface and the correct tyre pressures are important for safety and economy. Do not just rely on the car's warning systems as a driver you need to check things before they go wrong and to prevent them going wrong and this includes things like tyre pressures. There is lots of information about tyres and their maintenance on the internet and tyre manufacturers' websites, including this forum. Good luck.

For this and general figure you may be better looking and asking in the the 'Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ As for the rust often what you can see is only the start or very start of the rust and it depends on the quality and longevity of the the repair you want, if you are trying to more hide it or cosmetic job or fully get rid of it in that area. Different geographic areas have different labour rates and often these type of small jobs tend to escalate when the work starts and the true extent of what is required can more easily be seen.

There would probably be videos showing how to reset the service intervals yourself but of course this would be out of line with when the last service was actually done and it might be that you get another 365 day warning(?). I'd ask VWŠkoda Aus or whoever serviced your vehicle about this. On my wife's 205 Fabia it does a 30 day warning countdown as the actual annual mileage done is always lower than the annual service mileage. IIRC a mate's old Ren-No! Nissan Micra showed it was thousands of days overdue on service.

How much fuel is in there? Gauges aren't always that accurate especially near to empty and full. Is the car drivable, if so have you tried filling the fuel tank to half full and driving it around in case any of the mechanism is stuck, a few sharp braking and cornering to get the fuel moving around in the tank. Sometimes these things free themselves up with use of the car, cars are designed to be used and not using them enough can cause all sorts of snags and issues

You need a wiring diagram for your particular car, bridging the wires may not give a full read (but I don't know) it depends on how the gauge is wired to work (others will know). If the gauge works on resistance then a multimeter would be handy but as always all connections and wires need to be secure, clean and protected. Hopefully my post might bring your thread some momentum. Good luck.

ETA: just beaten to it! 😄 Bear in mind July(?) last year VWSkoda for UK finally came in line with Europe and admitted to the the belt change at 15yrs/180k-miles(?). Too late for us as the robbing bastards took £429 off of us, I wished I'd researched the subject more then, such is life. Give the whole belt a good visual check. Bear in mind things like tensioners and pullies can have issues or need replacement, see this post for good details of the ease of belt inspection. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485097-cambelt-change/page/2/#comment-5567999

You could be overloading the socket and it's fuse with too much going through it with all you have plugged into it, or one (or more) of the items could have a fault in it or its wiring, this could be in - 4-way 12v cigarette lighter splitter 10 inch CarPlay monitor 4K Dashcam USB adapter to MagSafe iPhone charger USB adapter for rear seats - or whatever is/are plugged into this.

The fuse is to protect the car's wiring (and appliances), if you are using too much electric through the fuse it melts because of the heat, or the fuse may quickly/instantly "blow" if there is a fault in the wiring or appliances. Different appliances can use different amounts of electricity and possibly at different times, some may have a surge when switched on or they switch something on within themselves and this may cause an overload to the fuse. You could think of the fuse like a string tied to a hook with the string holding some weight or weights at the end of it, if you add too much weight the string breaks. If you put in a fuse too strong (higher amps) then if it does not melt or "blow" then all the load is on the wiring and the wiring can overheat. HTH.

Bob you're in the wrong forum, you want 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)'. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ I can think of a few questions that might not be necessary in the other forum to those with your model. Good luck.

If your Fabia has the facility for the keyfob to open or close all four windows then that would be my first thought. I wish my wife's 2015 Fabia had that facility but then it has wind-up rear door windows (which I wish it had on all four doors, less weight and less to go wrong, don't need the ignition on to open or close windows).

ETA: I was still typing whilst PetrolDave posted and we certainly agree on one thing, as with 2mm, I'd have to experiment but I'm sure it'd need a lot more than 2mm difference on a 2015 Fabia to set off its TPMS warning, unless someone can do the maths (plural) Well I'm not sure it will but you have already tried swapping sides at rear plus generally you want your best set of two tyres to the rear. At 7k-miles per year on a 3 year old car I'm surprised the Nexen tyres had perished but your Nexen tyres may be a different model (not 'N blue HD' or 'N blue HD plus') and of different dates and times of manufacture which can make a big difference. I going to assume (always dangerous) that you changed three tyres because of the MoT. Even if all four tyres are the same make and model one, if I'm guessing right, has had 2mm of vehicle use and age more than the other three and that one presumably was made at a different time to the other three. That is not to say the other three where manufactured at exactly the same time as each other but hopefully they have been stored correctly and the three have equal use to each other (unless you live somewhere with lots of roundabouts and you always stick to the same routes and/or always park your car outside in exactly the same place pointing in the same direction, perhaps one tyre spared the elements and the other three not. As you're in the Tyres & Wheels' forum I am going to suggest you change the fourth tyre to match the other three before they get too much age and wear on them from new to balance out the braking, steering and handling the car via the tyres. Despite all the electronics and VW computer programs in the driver's "aids" and "assistance" (I don't think all of them always are) the car's only contact with the road or surface is only (hopefully) four small patches of 'rubber' from the tyres.

On my wife's 2015 Fabia it came with Nexen 'N blue HD', these were replaced with different tyres which were Nexen 'N blue HD plus' (neither were great tyres and replaced with entirely different makes and models). VW must have change the detection system (a lot) since 2015 as on my wife's Fabia it was very slow to detect a tyre that went very flat (cause of the "distress purchase" of two new 'plus' tyres, only one was needed but tyres are important and very important components in the braking, steering and suspension systems). Is the Scala standard two wheel drive or has it any all-wheel drive trickery? As you have tried moving the wheel and tyre to the other side why not try moving it to the front. Less hassle is first to check all the tyres with a reliable accurate pressure gauge as I suggested in my previous post and where ever the tyres are positioned they all what to be at even pressure at least across the axle. Is it that the car does little mileage as we had no trouble with the Nexen (other than they weren't the best for our wants or needs) but we did have some Avons that badly cracked up, on the inside where it was very difficult to see, in about 3years and 23k-miles.

Not normally a great idea to replace three tyres instead of four but as you ask, you could try checking all four tyre pressures with a reliable accurate tyre pressure gauge, if all four show the same pressure with the same reliable accurate pressure gauge then you could try slightly increasing or decreasing the pressures on all four tyres to see if that gives you what you want. I would have the odd tyre at the front. There's more to the tyres than just how much tread depth is on them, are all four tyres exactly the same make and model (making things up now, a Bridgehouse Pitstop tyre might come in varieties of chequered flag, black flag, yellow flag and even chequered, black and flag in S1, S2, S3 all with many difference between similar sounding names. Obviously a totally different make and or model of tyre is more likely to have more or greater differences. in its design, build, construction and compounds. HTH.

Sad that you will have to do such much work and parts to be able to sell but sometimes you are best to cut your losses and get shot, on the up side you've only had 11 months of suffering and it could be more and for longer. Good luck. BTW, I have seen again, right or wrong, that Snap-On scanners tend to be less reliable, but then all have there faults, computer programs are all. Good luck.

I've now used Millers EE Performance MTF 75W "Fully synthetic gear oil with ester technology" a noticeable improvement, and possibly quieter, at £30.64 (including P&P) for two litres it would only be a few pounds more that what you got. The story seems to be that the gearbox is a 2.1 litre, presumably dry fill, I keep meaning to check but I keep forgetting (other companies make this task a lot easier than VW). I forgot to put last time, I think the box is an "overfill" as oil spills out filler plug on level ground so atilt from opposite corner on fill (and drain) but it's not much overfill. Yes selecting another gear first might help if only for the delay it takes to do that but perhaps not or other. Previous posts have covered all my thoughts, other than perhaps checking with a Dealership to see if there are any "technical Bulletins" or whatever they call them ("TPI"?) for this issue on your VIN or perhaps some sort of recall, semi-secret or not. I've never thought these VW gearboxes were that great but I don't think they should be as bad as yours, as I put before I think I've seen something similar on Briskoda but can't remember the details, a Google search might be better than site or forum search (and bring you back to Briskoda which is a bit annoying after doing a site or forum search but Google do have massive resources that small sites can't even dream of or probably know what fully existing, never mind Skynet. 😆 If you find an answer let us know, good luck Tony.