nta16

I reverse things all the time, often thinking I mean the opposite and forgetting which opposites are actually correct. That's the lowest figure I've seen being quoted for this mostly I've seen 80% and recently 70%, as AGM batteries are said to be happy at 80% I'd have thought that'd be the figure but I forget things and who knows what figures VW set in their computer programs. I've no idea how accurate OBDEleven or other meters are and whether it's referring to state of charge or health but just having it plugged in will pull some little voltage in its use. For voltage see the VW and Ring figures and allow for any car electrics running and the OBDEleven but I'd have thought the OBDEleven would just show a voltage figure rather than percentage, if the 62% is state of health then the figure is more useful as a comparison against later figures and again how accurate is the figure and would it vary with another meter being used. Some posters have put they disconnect for very long periods and others have put not to as it messes with VW's computer programming and system running, I've not seen anyone putting the world has ended either way. I just leave it connected (generally switch off the start/stop each trip or engine start) and just do a few very occasional battery recharges using an appropriate battery charger maintainer having read the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger. This is because my wife's car regularly does very short journeys. It's not just journey length it's how much of the various car's electrics is used before the start, during and after the journey. As well as driving differently some people use a lot more than others. I think a coin-slot meter for battery use would be useful to teach some what uses how much, particularly for young pampered offspring. Attached will give you more info. - SSP-504_Vehicle_Batteries.pdf

It may depend on whether you are doing the work yourself or paying for professional labour. You would probably be better posting in the 'Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)' forum for more detailed information and advice, hyperlink below. You could if you wanted add more model details, such as engine type and size to your name plate to be seen by some but not all at each post you make as my example. Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/26-skoda-fabia-mk-i-1999-2007/ HTH

I must have had a very rare day when Sod/s Law didn't apply when I opened the folding key fob and kept all the pieces together but I do have to thank VWŠkoda for the privilege of trying this when the remote packed up and I had to walk down to my wife's place of work on THE coldest day of the year and for the privilege of contributing £180+ to the Dealership/VwŠkoda and UK taxes on a VWŠkoda part that should have lasted many more years. If that was the only very premature failing part it'd not been so bad but it wan't, isn't. Stick with your older VW cars and don't be tempted to the newer VWs, well much into this century/millennium anyway (or any German marque). For those that haven't heard there might be interest in this. - BBC World Service, World Business Report, Why's Europe's car industry stuck in neutral? - https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/w3ct607g "We start in Germany, where perhaps the biggest warnings yet about the pressure on Europe's car industry have come from one of the continent's biggest firms. Volkswagen - VW - has warned it could close factories for the first time in its history as it comes under increasing financial pressure. Also today the boss of one of the world's biggest delivery firms warns of disruption to global trade, And, fancy an AI dating - wingman?"

Folding or non-folding?

Hi welcome. 2005 VRS what, what engine, what mileage, what history, what other condition of vehicle, what country are you in?

A typo, negative side of battery. For the rest this is from VW in 2009. - SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf

Been in a few cars, was in the Honda S2000., I think it's to give a sort of racing car feel can't think what real benefit it would bring, bow of course you have "keyless" start, KESSY for VWŠkoda (and VW?) which have issues and possibly facilitate easier theft of the vehicle.

I didn't use to struggle but then I got ill and old, I've always been a bit stupid and being a man a bit extra macho stupid (always much less than many tho'). Yeap seen a few Turners, at shows usually, until a couple of years ago I had a 1973 Midget as my daily and only car for the previous 16 years and 15+ years before that various other British "classics" as dailies and for work, commuting, holidays and club tours and events and I had to be sure the MoT testers knew a little about "classics" but with the Midget still got intermittent advisories about slight play in king pin(s) despite them never being touched and always greasing up the six points just before the MoT. Spridget wheel bolts were only 44-46ftlb torque, despite telling and give it on paper to all garages/mechanics and tyre places over the years twice I had tyre places do a stud. I supposed the Ford bloke was more used to dealing with tradesmen as Transit owners, I'm afraid I'd have been a bit sarcastic with him if he'd have given me that reply and want it in ftlbs not that it'd matter at 200mn, must have been fun getting that at the roadside with the tool kit wheel brace. 😆 I've never experienced a flyoff handbrake but think I've passenger'd in at least one car with it. I used to do passenger rides for charity donations with our club and one time with the Midget a lady in her early 20s said "oh you have a switch" when I turned the wipers on, I thought she meant a switch on the dash instead of column stalk and it was only when I got back I realised she was only used to or seen automatic wipers, made me feel very old. 😆

You can check the battery voltage with a handheld multimeter with the probes on the battery terminals after the car has been parked up for as many hours as possible or (if you must, not my favourite way) one of these cheap plug-in (to 12v socket) what I've just discovered are sometimes called DVM (digital volt meter) or an appropriate battery charger maintainer will give you a readout (do read the car's Owner's Manual and battery charger maintainer instructions when using charging the battery). There will be some drop for all the car's electrics still going when parked up. The following VW figures would refer to the battery out of the car sitting on a bench. - Charge level No-load voltage 1.28 g/cm3 100% 12.7 V 1.21 g/cm3 60% 12.3 V 1.18 g/cm3 40% 12.1 V 1.10 g/cm3 0% 11.7 V And Ring charger figures - 12.7v - 100% 12.5v - 90% 12.4v - 80% 12.3V - 70% 12.2v - 60% 12.1v - 50% 11.9v - 40% 11.8v - 30% 11.6v - 20% 11.3v - 10% The engine still starting means very little to the battery possibly being in a lower state of charge, however you should get some sort of message if the engine needs to run, by the time you have any difficulty starting the engine the battery will be very low and will suffer if not very soon fully recharged, also the car's computers will possibly make you suffer with all sorts of unexpected issues and unseen error codes or reports even before warning lights and messages perhaps, there are many threads on Briskoda with this. Why have you got your foot on the brake pedal(?), as the other posters have put that's probably the cause of the issue. Same as you would probably get slightly more mpg with using cruise control than just keeping your foot on the accelerator pedal because when you think you are holding your foot steady you are actually most probably making at least micro movements. Try sticking to an exact speed with the digital speedo you'll find it's difficult to maintain an exactly continuous speed readout. You still would be best to check the battery on a 2020 car new to you especially a VW product with start/stop unless you have know the car very well from brand new. I recommend, when required, preventative battery charging and sometime just driving the car isn't enough for longer battery life and reliability so an appropriate battery charger maintainer is needed, lower amperage is generally better. Do read the car's Owner's Manual and battery charger maintainer instructions when using charging the battery. Just one (mains pug in) example suggestion (many others available) is the Ring RSC 900. - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html For driving and learning lots of very useful information that could save you the hassle, time and cost of Dealership/garage/mechanic/auto-electrician visits and unnecessary parts read and refer to the Owner's Manual. - https://digital-manual.skoda-auto.com/ HTH.

Quite a few passive error codes, have you tried clearing those and driving the car with those lights on for a few miles? Did the garage clear these codes and they reappeared? Only left rear door warning shows as active, and "Electrical error in circuit" - with the Autel can you do testing of turn the light on via the scanner? The scan tool does need to be fully up to date with its program for your (Europe?) model and year to avoid errors and get information and advice if part of the purchase package, if you borrowed the scanner do check it is fully up to date as many either don't realise or can't be bothered keeping up with all the updates.

relates to much later car and computer programs but shows there can be issues even with factory systems.

Sorry Derek I've no idea where they were made, could be China for all I know, the eBay posting didn't say and there wasn't anything in the packaging that I noticed. I did notice picking the parcel up from the hall floor that it felt reassuringly heavy. As my back is playing up again this week I make no apologises for whinging about the need for these tools because of the stupid idea of not having wheel studs, but bolts, I never experience this until this car (that I can remember) with any other cars we've had or with friends and neighbours cars.

That confused me. 😁 When I read it I thought you meant the camera, digital video monitoring?, Google gave me Doctor of Veterinary Medicine for DVM search, then I clicked on DVM electronics images of Fluke handheld meters and finally it clicked, photos at top of thread. 😆 I'm not so keen on those, a permanent display tends to get ignored and sometimes difficult to see in daylight (like "smart" phone and other portable device screens), garish bright colours, gives something else to distract from driving and worry about. VW should provide this information on the dash something you can scroll the thumbwheel to see like oil temperature. A mate has a permanently installed DVM into the dash, can't see it in sunlight, didn't stop him leaving the heated windscreen on and draining the battery at the start of his journey in France. 😄 He wired it so that the tell-tale light operated instead when he put his lights on! And he's altering the wiring on his mate's kitcar so that it has a fusebox(!), I asked if he thought that was wise, I dread to think how it'll be as his car has a spiders web of wiring from the add-ins on it. I did mention how well fibreglass burns.

If you mean the lime green thing isn't it some sort of plastic/'rubber' seal or marker to denote which part it's on if there's a choice (another option with a different colour ring on it), have you felt it with your fingers to see if it feels like a soft pliable O-ring sort of feel? On a quick Google search P04F0 for VW comes up as EVAP system sensor circuit so if that's a sensor it might be something to do with that or someone messing with it. To be sure codes are correct you do need an appropriate scan tool VW and to your model and year of vehicle and have that program on the scan tool fully up to date. HTH.

Just out of curiosity I weighted the "alignment tool(s)" I mentioned on 20th August, 174g, (each) (148 mm long) and the magnet stuck. And referencing my last post, by coincidence this afternoon whilst waiting in my neighbour's car flicking to BBC World Service on the 'radio' I heard the 'World Business Report' program which was about 'Why's Europe's car industry stuck in neutral?' and in particular VW related to what I put in my last post via VW's dieselgate (my description) it's leads to VW's electric cars distraction and the Chinese electric cars and government. I will add this was in addition to other matters they discussed including one of VW's top guys being in trouble for possibly being accused of possibly trying to con the US market (my description) (all are innocent until proven guilty). - BBC World Service, 'World Business Report', 'Why's Europe's car industry stuck in neutral?' - "We start in Germany, where perhaps the biggest warnings yet about the pressure on Europe's car industry have come from one of the continent's biggest firms. Volkswagen - VW - has warned it could close factories for the first time in its history as it comes under increasing financial pressure. Also today the boss of one of the world's biggest delivery firms warns of disruption to global trade, And, fancy an AI dating - wingman?" - https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/w3ct607g

Don't worry he's only for me, you will have to find another if you really want another one. Personally I think what you had in the very first photo of this thread is the best compromise but I am biased as I don't like remote locking fobs, I like keyblades only, in mechanical locks. With my wife's previous car the folding blade of the remote fob broke and my wife insisted on a replacement and on the 2015 Fabia the remote fob just stopped operating and using the "emergency" keyblade in the hidden door lock set off the car's alarm, replacements were expensive and required further installation work or procedure that had to be paid for. I could have got the part and work done for a lot less on the Fabia but as I have seen even good quality professional have a rare problem with getting the VW computer programs to accept the new parts I wasn't risking it as if there was a rare event and much more expensive parts and work were required it would be on VWŠkoda to resolve, I have limited faith in computer programs, particularly from car manufacturers, bad enough in other products. To me It is just adding complications to possible go wrong. Even a mate's Honda S2000, one of the most reliable cars going the (UK added) alarm went wrong after about 13 years, that was the only thing to play up on the car until about 18 years of age when a hazard switch had to be replaced.

You still want to fully or as very much possible ("fully") charge the battery to get the best out of it. If you can borrow a multimeter I think it's best to check the battery at the the battery terminal posts as many hours as possible after driving the car or charging the battery with the bonnet up and car locked(?) (I think that's possible I forget) and car left for about half a hour for the computers and other stuff to settle, might be more on a 2021 car I don't know. Then allow say 0.2v or 0.3v for parked up use. This gives an idea of the battery, then if it can be repeated many hours later without the car being used it will give an idea of any drop in the battery. Best not to let the battery so low that the start/stop doesn't work other than in circumstances as explained in the Owner's Manual. Good luck.

Yes but he's been replaced for me by the not so new guy and it's getting very old and very wearing, I am sure if he lived in the UK and we meet face to face. he would be far more restricted in what he would say or put but probably whinge about not being able to do so to "all and sundry". 😁 "Enough already" (which I thought was Irish) of the man, I leave you to your remote key.

The (UK) English is very complicated with some spoken words sounding exactly the same but meaning different things and spelt differently, or a word could have different spellings and mean exactly the same. Then there are the very many spoken local and regional accents and dialects in England only. The language continually develops and changes, Shakespeare and the language he used though respected isn't as so widely admired and used in the UK as it may seem to Americans and others outside the UK, there are even doubts about what he actually wrote and if he actually existed. Not everyone in the UK lives in London or went to Oxbridge type universities or universities at all. Younger generations often use spoken words like "somethink" (or sumfink) instead of something that doesn't make them wrong as the idea is to communicate, the English language is made of of words from all over the world, after all language is just something made up by people, like many other things.

Don't be confused by my troll who has only turned up to have a go at me via you and not to meaningfully contribute. I don't expect you to know all about the UK and the English language which is why I advised you of the meaning of the word you originally used before you edited to the full version. I am sure by now you have looked up the UK English meaning and use of the shortened word. I have never suggested that you are bigoted with your use. You may or may not know of the recent troubles in the UK, those of us that actually live in the UK will obviously stand more chance of knowing more about this and I can absolutely without any doubt assure you that the word you used was, and AFAIK still is, used as a racist slur in the UK from what is called "casual racism" particularly with the older generation but also institutions and without any casualness by those brought up with ignorant prejudice and far right racist thugs and organisations. With your interest in language, in the UK one of the most popular English foods is "a curry" with take-away "Indian" curries being very popular but the "Indian" take-away "curry house(s)" (restaurants) are actually IIRC 80%(?) actually Bangladeshi. Sorry I don't know what you mean. I was only trying to help you I can't know your intentions but having exchanged a few posts and know your age and what you've put on this site advise you in a direct and positive manner that you picked up on if not initially fully understood or perhaps even liked but you picked up on it. I perhaps wasn't in the best mood having already had to put up with more trolling from my personal troll elsewhere on the site. I can only speculate why he so persistently trolls me, for a long time now, but I know he wouldn't want me to crash and die as then he would have to find someone else to pick on. 😁 Such a shame as he very often has very good information and advice to give and only occasionally turns nasty on other posters.

As far as I am concerned you can use whatever words you like as long as you're not breaking any laws or site rules. America being invasive in many ways has introduced many American terms and words that have become common use in the UK possibly including bull****. Other American terms and worlds can be more confusing on a UK English language site because they do mean something different in the UK to USA.

The Chinese government are helping Chinese companies with warehouses (or part area in them) to be stacked with very cheap Chinese goods, some of it utter crap but no doubt other bits reasonable or good. Perhaps these seem (and actually are) very good for some purchasers in the short and medium term but possibly not so in the longer term, as America has found out. Possibly the two sets I bought were from China or Chinese made, so difficult to know for sure now. For a few decades I and others had many issues with Chinese made parts for "classic" cars with the suppliers and many purchasers racing to the bottom with purchase price and very frequently quality. So much so that alternative good quality parts, at higher purchase prices started to disappear and unavailable. Each to their own, buy as you please, I can't see how you can go too far wrong with these items (unless they snap or scratch the wheel bolt holes) but at £1.17 including P&P even at UK postage I do wonder how the item was made and got from China to here and be able to be sold at that retail cost.

If you really feel you have no safe place to charge the battery (this isn't a lithium battery) in your house then the best thing for you is to replace the battery with a good quality new battery. It is also best to 'code' the new battery and will certainly be required if changing from EFB to AGM battery. You might have some drain on the battery from some item drawing power whilst the car is parked up, above and beyond the unusual factory stuff, do you have any items added to the car not from factory, a dash and/or rear camera, etc.? For months you have been getting a message that tells you the battery is low enough for the computer to disable the start/stop so your driving is insufficient to charge the battery enough to resolve this, once the battery is low and recharged enough the battery is worn more and more, a downward spiral which gets harder and harder to reasonably recover the battery from. There certainly have, I have put many here and elsewhere on Briskoda. I can post loads of info for you or you can search on here by using the 'Search' box at the top right of the page and using the drown down arrow in it to click on 'This Forum' for Mk3 Fabias. If your car is under warranty have you checked with the Dealership, also for any (admitted) VWŠkoda recalls (there was one for earlier cars relating to battery issue CU97). As a 2021 car is there any chance it might go back to covid production building times, have you had any other electrical issues? I don't know Bletchley now (I used to live in Wolvertun, Brad'l, New Brad'l (Bradville) but that was many decades back) but wonder if you could if required on a new battery use a solar charger at home, or work, There are lots of variables and bear in mind your plug-in digital meter reading is with you sitting in the car not when parked and locked up with whatever electrics are drawing power at either times. The following VW figures would refer to the battery out of the car sitting on a bench. - Charge level No-load voltage 1.28 g/cm3 100% 12.7 V 1.21 g/cm3 60% 12.3 V 1.18 g/cm3 40% 12.1 V 1.10 g/cm3 0% 11.7 V Ring charger figures - 12.7v - 100% 12.5v - 90% 12.4v - 80% 12.3V - 70% 12.2v - 60% 12.1v - 50% 11.9v - 40% 11.8v - 30% 11.6v - 20% 11.3v - 10% HTH.

This is a UK English language site, the shortened version of the word is a very offensive bigoted racist slur in the UK also used by very violent extreme right thugs and organisations.

Edited - now a redundant post.