nta16

Ouch. I meant the VWŠkoda Dealership that could be run by several companies (in name at least) our local one is called Marshall (at the moment). - https://www.skoda.co.uk/dealers/marshall-skoda-northampton In your photo, it might just be a covering but it's twisted on top cable bit, the inner plastic sleeve with flange might have some kinda locating in the black arc bit, but you may just have slipped that out anyway. When you get the new part if you want to you could compare it to the broken part and be able to take the broken part, er, apart, perhaps the bearing under the winder shaft. If sufficient interest and time you might let us know how you get on and perhaps a photo of what you found to be at fault. Cheers, good luck.

Hi, welcome Steve. Is there a part number on it that could help your search. It might not be as expensive as think if you check with the parts department of your local VWŠkoda Dealer, I've found some prices there for genuine new parts are good enough to chase round elsewhere and have delivery delays (obviously check availability and delivery with the Dealers). Is there no way good quality penetrating/releasing and lubrication like GT85 might free up the metal, plastic and cable bits. - https://gt85.co.uk/ ETA: The very often used WD-40 Multi-Use isn't such a good or long lasting lubricant. As when my wife first got her 2015 Fabia one of the rear window winders stuck a bit when I tried it and as the rear seats would only very occasional be used, and then not by the types to have the windows down, I make it a habit of occasionally opening the rear doors and fully winding the windows down and up again at least once. Mechanical items like these are best exercised and especially as I've found some VW parts not to be so well made and long lasting, and I didn't believe in the out-dated German and VW engineering and build quality belief anyway.

Unless the battery in your new car is better it might be the same or worse. It's rare to get bad batteries now usually it the owner/keepers letting the battery get too low in charge and too low too often. Whether VW had computer program issues before or used undersized batteries I don't know, I know there was a (rare admitted VW) Recall on my wife's car (97CU) which my wife was told "was for the battery". The number one cause for AA breakdown call outs is for batteries, the actual cause will very rarely actually be the battery mostly by far it will be owner/driver use, abuse and neglect of the battery. RAC says the they deal with more flat batteries on the first working day of each year (post-Christmas) than on any other day. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519903-flat-batteries-on-the-first-working-day-of-each-year As always every one can do as they please on such things as car batteries and believe or not whatever they like, I just give my advice from decades of experience if some find it unacceptable that's fine. 😇

There are many variables, time of year and temperatures will make some difference. As I put before a battery that is good enough to start the car doesn't mean it's on a good state of charge and health. If you're not keeping the car long and/or a need to change the battery and 'coding' aren't a concern then that's fine. The life of the battery will have been diminished against had the car not stood still so long or if the battery had been disconnected. I'd not suggest trying such a thing with a modern VW car.

Over here we would call them a 2 way momentary rocker switch and have a wiring diagram for such depending on type chosen. ETA: the switch only holds at centre position, both side positions have to be held down as they spring the switch back to centre position if not. Scrub that just realised I was thinking of windows, old man's mind drift.

Sorry I thought all this was aftermarket parts I had no idea the Škoda stuff was still available (or already in the car).

Yes cutting costs like legal cover and guaranteed hire is fine until you need to make a claim, as you put Sod's Law often applies. You obviously accept that if you have a 2.0l, 220 PS car then insurance premiums will reflect this. No matter what type of cover the better the insurer you buy your policy from the less work you'll need to do and the more they will do for you, and unfortunately visa-versa. I'm afraid you will have to let things work through the systems and processes, doesn't mean you can't keep checking and trying to reduce delays but even getting the car repair started isn't as quick as it used to be but if the work is done by the major repairers the quality should be good, smaller concerns who knows. Do you have any legal cover from elsewhere such as another insurance or a bank account or a car club you're a member of? Not if you have a NCD protection that only allows x accidents in y years Hopefully it won't be too long before you get your car back then the blame and money chase can really begin. Let us know when there's progress or you need more advice or help. Good luck.

There must be typing errors in above as API that start with S are for "spark" ignition (spark plugs) and API that start with C are for "compression" ignition (the dirty evil diesel). Just look up and cross reference with two or three reputable engine oil providers for your car and see what oil they suggest with such a newish car unless VW have made more mistakes the databases should be about correct. VW and Germany make things more complicated by having their own specification standards and numbers (and part numbers) for things like oils and coolant these are in addition to to the recognised standards of others. You want a good suitable engine oil (and other oils) for your car if it also meets the VW dictates of their specification numbers systems that is fine. Castrol is just a commercial recommendation, if you want it fine but if you prefer better then it does not have to be a Castrol product. A better oil will help more but a lesser oil will help less. whether you care what comes out of the exhaust or not. Good luck.

6 years old need not be very old for a battery, it depends on it's use/abuse and possible neglect. With the more modern cars the battery has to be really on its arse for it not to start the car but that doesn't mean the battery is good just good enough to start the car. Perhaps your battery is good, without testing/readings that is an assumption though, same as it hasn't been affected. A 6 year old car generally has less on it than a 2024 car and 2022 car. If you left your 2022 car for two months you might notice more - or perhaps you wouldn't without taking readings. As I put my neighbours car's battery wasn't good more like 5.5 cells out of 6 when I first looked at it and it wouldn't improve by later being left longer to drain - but the car would have started easily and lights seem bright enough (not measured). The car was only just over three years old (2021) and presumably (never dated) the battery not much older. Not that I follow all the dictates of VW but the 2018 Karoq 'Owner's Manual' has - "If the vehicle is not used for longer than 3 to 4 weeks, then disconnect the negative terminal  or charge the battery constantly with a very low charging current". 2022 Kamiq Owner's Manual has - "Functionality – Protection against discharge of the 12 volt vehicle battery Possible causes for the discharge of the 12 volt vehicle battery Worn 12 volt vehicle battery Frequent short journeys Low temperatures Vehicle stationary for a long period of time Recommended measure to be taken when vehicle is stationary for more than three weeks Disconnect the [ negative ] terminal of the 12 volt vehicle battery."

Yeap, great. I'm not sure how you didn't get it with what you've typed in the above quote. Type the @ and, no space, follow with C - h - and so on (no spaces) until the name appears on the drop down list, the more characters you type the nearer to the top of the list the name you want. It acts like a shout out if you're not quoting the person you want to see your post. You can also edit and add to your post (for a certain period, unless you're a Freedom or Freedom Lite member then IIRC no restriction, by clicking on the three dots at the top right corner of your post and if you want give a reason for your edit in the 'reason for edit' box below the post. With that jack I like the 2 ton and it being read (unless you want to colour match a black car 🙂) but not the flat top with just two dimples, a groove with give more reassurance, Even on flat solid ground scissor jack can become unstable when wound up to a high position particularly if a wheel is stubborn to remove and a bit of force is needed to release it I put smears of grease or spray protect the contact surfaces, obviously you don't want any loose and going on to brake discs. Personally I prefer not to use a scissor jack unless it's to support or position other components whilst the car is held on stands or ramps or perhaps a trolley jack if stuff at the front wheels. My wife's Fabia doesn't have a jack or brace and spare wheel, just a manual foot pump next to the annoying noisy electric pump and I've not carried a spare wheel or associated tools in most of my cars for more than two decades.

Did you scroll down to the bottom of the page to see the differences of the FP to CUK and CU filters. - https://www.mann-filter.com/au-en/catalog/search-results/product.html/fp26010_mann-filter.html Where did you see the FP at £10? I've just tried removing the cabin filter in my wife's 2015 and I must say it was very easy and very quick. A torch or light is required as like many things on the car you are looking at black against black in a dark area. When I just tried the top edge of the passenger footwell carpet just caught the far side of the filter retaining cover to tilt it making the short front side catch a little making me wonder about the withdraw angle and plastic bits fragility for a second until I felt the rebound on the carpet edge. Getting car open, torch and and kneeling pad from shed, removing existing filter and (if I had one) removing new filter from box and fitting it and packing away would be a genuine 5 minutes depending on how far to the shed and how easy to find stuff (I keep the inspection lamp charged ready for use). You may want to add some time if you need to clean and sanitise(?) the filter housing area or vacuum up bits that go on the footwell floor To be fair it would be the easiest and least awkward cabin filter change of the few I've done.

@Chug41 getting there. But the link although not displaying does include the path stream of your whole route rather than just the destination. On the ebay page, in the address bar at the top, delete everything after the last number in the item (itm) number then copy & paste. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386172681935 Looks the same but isn't, place your cursor on the link you put up and see the full address on it then do the same with the link I have put up. As for the jack I'd prefer more like 2 ton, "heavy duty" nowadays often means previous light duty, yet a proper heavy duty made product often costs the same, or a bit more or even bit less and I'd keep the jack lubricated (GT85) as if you ever need to use it usually it's not at the best of times and circumstances.

Sorry I missed your post. I remember pages in service books for body corrosion warranties but not seen them since VW ownership. The tick sheets we got we first called "Maintenance list" they look low quality design so could be computer program print off from VWŠkoda UK but who knows, I'd hope VWŠkoda mothership would have more money and design but perhaps not all legacy computer stuff as the motor trade hardly deals in cutting edge stuff for this sort of thing (or in their cars) to keep the costs down and profits up. The Dealership list printouts look better but also can be amusing and/or concerning depending on which of us reads them. I can post up any you want to see (with "redactions" for security and privacy).

I checked my wife's car for another thread this spring(?) and it would be 90+c in 7-8 miles, I think (but can't remember for sure) this would be the same in winter, can't think why not. Not that I have to much faith in the sensors/programs/dash read outs given the outdoor temperature reading on the dash, they seem to suffer with solar radiation gain, at various times we play "guess what temperature the lying VW car says it is", who needs all this infotainment stuff.

I thought it was tighter than that but I've not seen or tested for any actual confirmed figures. I can remember learning about it in 1999 (last century and millennium and just about when German car quality was worth noting) when I noticed how steady and good the dial reading was on my then brand new Japanese car. All my Japanese cars were always very good, boringly so for me being used to old and brand new British (English) made cars.

I wonder about that with the longer life plugs. Have a look here for 'Mounting instructions' (assuming they're correct) and the choice of filters if you do the job yourself. - https://www.mann-filter.com/au-en/catalog.html I got the idea that they only had one scan tool and not all were allowed to use it even if it was available. 🙃 I know there would be error codes to see in my wife's car as I caused them but unable to delete them as my neighbour had moved away taking his scan tool with him (so selfish!). Possibly or just a way of getting extra revenue. This is why I prefer to do the oil change myself, I drain when the oil is hot, when down to dregs drips I pour some fresh new warmed oil in the engine and let that drain through as a sort of mini flush. Some garages/mechanics will do a cold quick drain or even perhaps a suck out, who knows, anything to save time. As I put at 5.6k-miles per annum you are more like to need at least annual engine oil and filter changes. A good practice is to ignore a dial and needle coolant gauge for when the engine is fully warmed as it's biased to show 90c even when it is somewhere above or below this and moving around, better is to set to display your engine oil temperature, it wants to be around 90c for the oil to be warm enough not to cause additional problems. My wife's car on most days would not get to 90c by the time the engine is switched off when she parks at her workplace and sometimes in winter might not get to the minimum display figure of 50c. In the USA where, oil is king, they do 3k-mile and 5k-mile oil changes and show videos of sludge in the engines from supposed build up from supposed 10k-mile oil changes but who knows just as you get good and bad in the motor trade you get good and bad customers who flat out lie about lots of things.

If using an extendable wheel brace always tighten the wheel nuts or (bloody stupid) bolts with the handle contracted so as to reduce the leverage and not overtighten the wheel nuts or (bloody stupid) - sounds obvious I know but think of all the garages and tyre places that overtighten (or miss thread) with a rattle gun and then put a torque wrench on. I had a mate that was an ex-mechanic and he couldn't shift a wheel nut on one of his cars even using a three foot pole.

If you can afford it and want it then buy it but you don't need such an expensive make and model, my mate has a couple of them and they show different on the same battery, not impressive to me. A neighbour and others I know have bought the £15 ones from Lidl or Aldi (I always mix the two shops up) and they have all worked great, my neighbour's must be at least 6 years old and is used frequently on his very low use car. Here is just (another now) example (4-amps is a good size) RingRSC904 (4-amp Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer) I've had the previous version for a few years now for my wife's 2015 Fabia (I prefer numbers to lights as you can tell where you are more). - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC904 Just because the cart starts doesn't necessarily mean the battery is fully good, good enough to start the car yes but it could still be in a low state of charge that upset the car's computers and programs (numerous posts threads on here about the issues that can arise) until the battery is charged by driving the car or use of a battery charger and the battery's useful life could have been shortened. Another neighbour had a car that sat for about 2-3 months outside, it had to be driven to try to clear the rust off the brakes disks, of course the engine started fine but the battery wouldn't fully charge even when taken off the car. The car remained parked up, later the car was taken for it's annual service and first MoT, a couple of miles away, then returned to remain parked up. Bit later and the car is bought by one of the big dealerships and I'm sure the same battery will be on the car when it's sold but will need replacement soon after. ETA: minus 2c or 3c overnight

I've never seen a diagnostics report other than tick sheets, perhaps the tick sheets are/were the diagnostics reports. I'm not sure a scan tool gets plugged in unless you pay extra(?).

Sorry I don't know your car, its wiring, what might be controlled by what, which switch or kits might be any good or not, I can do simple electrics and no more. Your installation might be extremely easy or they might be some considerations needed on top of dealing with 24 year old connectors and wiring and installation.

In my experience that is not always the case. If you ring or call in and speak to the people in the parts department and give your reg or VIN they can look up the part and sometime superseded part numbers and give you the correct (if VWŠkoda's database is correct) part number(s) and prices and stock availability. You might be pleasantly surprised at the cost f some parts. The same part (with perhaps a different letter at the end) might cost more or less for the other brands that VW own. Up to you how much time and lifeforce you use up investigating. In another life I used to order parts for customers and the same part could have entirely different part numbers for different brands because the part was made and sourced from the same part manufacturer so I would order the one that was priced the lowest knowing it was the same part so would look, fit and work exactly the same even if fitted to the more expensive brand item.

I've seen videos for the 1.0 MPI and the air box just pulls off on that but I've not idea with the 1.0 TSI, not difficult on the 1.2 TSI just a PITA awkward. You do need the deep thin (and best magnetic) long socket about IIRC £20 for a Laser one, perhaps you can get away with not buying a coil puller and grease to ease future removal, you could put in the standard plugs or more expensive longer lasting ones, plus you only need three of them and not four. Even with the more expensive plugs, plug socket, coil puller and grease I doubt it'd be £141. A couple of years back for a service I took my wife's car to an independent garage that a neighbour had used and if anything it might have been a few pounds more for the work than the Dealership. I have been recommended a chap that uses the end lift at a local tyre place his prices seem low but I don't want cheap work but reasonably good work which seems so hard to find in the motor trade. I know what you mean about a bad back and not wanting to get your hands dirty, I loathe working on our cars not that I know much or are any good at mechanics (but I don't mind simple jobs on my neighbours' cars) but this year I think I might do the engine oil & filter change as I know I will do a better job of that because I care about doing it properly and I can use better quality oil as my wife's car frequently does very short journeys and the annual mileage is low at 8,000 miles a year.

@D.FYLAKTOS you are missing the British humour in the replies, as put if you want a central locking button you fit one. I was tempted to put you might be driving too fast and/or you suspension is bouncing your body around the cabin but as those subjects have already been fully exhausted before I didn't. 😁 (smiley to be sure) IIRC(?) in Australia you can't drive on the roads with anyone putting their limbs out of a window.

Why not take the car to another garage/mechanic. £141 does seem a bit steep for three plugs. On my wife's 1.2 TSI it was £99 which by the time I'd bought the plugs and tools and wrested with the PITA engine air filter box to get at the plugs wasn't worth it for what might be a one-off job. That could be other things including perhaps the computer programs doing their bits but that to me is more encouragement to at least look at the plugs and if paying someone else to do that you might as well fit new plugs. Also if the 1.0 engine air filter box is the same PITA to deal with as the 1.2 then change the engine air filter too or at least take the air filter out and clean it and the airbox, again if paying someone be best to change the filter. The plugs might not be worn out but be past their optimum and fully reliable use, age and the environment of the engine effect them not just milage lack of mileage and use effects the engine with it not being at at reasonable running temperature proportionately for longer periods and more heat cycles, same for the engine oil (so perhaps needs changing more often and not less often.

ETA: I was still, as often, one-finger typing as Oootofhere and you posted Up to you if you want to change the plugs, it's your car - I would as low mileage and lack of use bring their own issues. Misfire are often from spark plugs. If you have a scan tool you could look for records of misfires or look at live figures as the engine runs. You have three plugs so if one plays up that's 33.3% of the set and cylinders. Some people would never bother changing the brake fluid, I do, I like the brakes to be good (tyres are a very important part of the braking system, and steering and suspension systems too). Personally the engine air filter I would not leave 4 years or 6 years to replace or even check to see how dirty it is. Depending on where you park your car you could get dirt in from the car just sitting around doing nothing. Sitting around also effects the tyres (there's more to them than just tread depth) and the state of charge (and life length) of the car's battery, If that gets too low then the computers can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues even before warning lights and messages and even if the engine starts fine and the headlights look bright enough and leads to premature (expensive) battery replacement. Pollen filter should be straight forward (though often including a bit of awkwardness for "fun") let us know how you get on with that, perhaps even put a guide in the 'Skoda Fabia Guides'. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/167-skoda-fabia-guides/