nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @Gabbo the C3 has done well to keep you going but if the start/stop hasn't worked for 18 months and you get early Xmas lights in winter possibly the car and battery were trying to tell you something, sounds like battery cruelty. If not then there might be something wrong with your car, did the garage test the battery and alternator/charging system, easy for them to do. Or perhaps you where not connecting the C3 negative lead to the engine earth on your rechargers. If you were charging at below 0 perhaps the C3's electronics did not like it and the battery would not, the instructions I saw for the C3 did not show a winter setting but it kept your battery going so it must have been doing a reasonable job at the very least. I like the 3.8 amps(?) but perhaps your battery needed more than a few hours recharging from it sometimes. I am just trying out my latest and by far most modern charger £23.49, I can't stretch to a Bosch label, charging my neighbour's diesel van battery. Third time in a couple of years IIRC, originally it had sat on the garage floor for 18-24 months because he removed it from the van flat and thought it would not be worth charging. My old chargers got it back to life and it now alternates with the other battery he has that goes flat from lack of vehicle use. I applaud you getting longer out of your battery by recharging it but not if you have persistent warning lights and messages because of the battery being low, you are lucky you done enough to just about feed the evil VW computer programs an they have not made you and the car suffer more. I think you might notice a difference to the car with your new battery, be interesting to hear. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think you'd have to go back to the days of Raffles for anyone to be picking a lock, a big screwdriver and perhaps hammer if needed has been the tool kit for decades, well it was decades back when my wife's unlocked car was broken into and the face of the non-face-off 'radio' was broken off and tax-disc stolen. £400 worth of damage and the car was unlocked anyway and non-face-off radio left in dash, I think they might have been so young as to only know face-off 'radios' back then. £7 to get another tax disc. Best not to attack anyone. "Dad held in Herts prison and appeared on 24 Hours in Police Custody after chasing robbers tells what it was like in jail" -https://www.hertfordshiremercury.co.uk/news/hertfordshire-news/dad-held-herts-prison-appeared-7892880

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. From Octavia 2014/5 Owner's Manual' pages 199 & 200. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As I've put check out your Owner's Manual for what might need resetting. From the list of four on my wife's 2015 Fabia only the time of day clock needed resetting and I've learnt from someone on here that with earlier models even though the book has the radio, it doesn't. Unlike a neighbour's 2005 Merc where without the code we left the battery in the car to recharge it as that puts up dire warnings at the slightest issue or what the computers think is an issue. Another neighbour had a few plug in battery memory savers and his Ring SmartCharge also has a memory saver function but I didn't bother as the car was at the beck and call of fully grown up offspring.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. They'd probably dealt with the other German marques with over complicated computer systems and programs so didn't want to take any chances, lose a favorite radio station and some customers are in great distress. Plenty of devices about and for DIY use if they're available and wanted why not, I'd not bother but that's my choice.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I've had small and larger engined British cars that are like bricks the gearing and power are soon eat up, didn't help with power-to-weight when I sat in the car. 😆

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You sound like you might be well named, perhaps yourself well in to no road tax and MoT. 🙂

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Or painted, hence the yellow and green house electric insulation tape on my 4 inch adjustable spanner to remind me to be less careless at battery terminals (not related to a Skoda).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That's what is in the Owner's Manual. Window is better fully closed as they may need a reset but it's not vital, door being open is more electric to the spark so again better closed but not vital and if it eases your mind then do one or both. Always a good idea to make sure you or nobody else or the keys are locked in the car. I often make the mistake of offering too much information so that it can then be open to more question or misunderstanding, as I have here, which is why referring to the instructions (owner's Manual, instruction notes or booklets) is often better, if anyone is too lazy or Billy-Big-B*ll*cks to read instructions tough on them. Link for Owner's Manuals, so no excuses. 😄 - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. There's 1ah more on the new battery, I don't think it'd make any odds particularly if you had the battery 'coded' in a bit later or probably not at all. VCDS is one system but there are others and other tools capable of doing battery 'coding'. If you are going to have the battery 'coded' at point of installation and you're going to keep the car for a good number of years more then you might want to look at installing an AGM battery instead, remember the new battery unlike the factory battery isn't going into a new car with new systems so won't last as long with the same use as the previous battery. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/027-agm/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd believe you, I would have a mild panic first and think later. I still jump at sparks, when I was very young I got an electric shock from messing around with a radiogram (look it up) that taught me to be careful. That is always my attitude, I loathed doing anything on my cars I don't need to and have had enough minor roadside repairs and breakdown call outs and recoveries to last me three lifetimes having owned old British/English cars for decades. The car batteries have always been more important that most drivers realise but it's even more so the newer the modern car with VW type computer programs and car owners using the car as a battery on wheels for all the electrics they want to use, whilst the car is driven, static or parked up. I can't stand a car that won't at least start so I like the car battery to be in reasonable condition and with the least work and hassle from me so I like a good battery from the start as that makes the rest easier. I broke my own rule of not changing the car battery before required with my wife's car as she hasn't the time or patience for it not always being available at anytime and I changed the battery quite early to save me any hassle of any sort, plus my wife has been with me on many of those three lifetimes of minor roadside repairs and breakdown call outs and recoveries. I thought you meant 100 metres but better to check than assume.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I certainly didn't want to imply I didn't believe you and really I should have thought that many would get their car battery very low before changing or for some realising how low the battery has got. Ties in with my warnings about the computers possibly playing up and giving, or not giving warnings even though the battery starts the car and the lights still seeming bright enough, possibly before this point though. Again this is why I favour using a battery charger to fully charge the battery as much as possible and preferably before the battery gets too low and certainly before it gets beyond rescue or convenient change rather than breakdowns and forced changed (appropriate or not). I now favour, after battery disconnect, turn the ignition on and press and hold down brake pedal as I always think computers need a bloody good booting and can actually benefit from it on many occasions. 😁 Sorry, I meant, a turn off 'n' on agen, not violence of any sort, tempting though it might be towards computers for some of us. The computer programs be intertwined (for the sake of a description) will have one thing leading on to another when the computers pick up something, or think they have sometimes so I'm totally with you and certainly agree that it's best to clear all error codes, at every opportunity, if its serious, real, it'll return soon enough anyway. I think we generally sign off the same song sheet but your voice is much sweeter, refined and sophisticated than mine. One thing I didn't quite follow, did you mean drive 100 miles or metres? Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. ETA: posted too late for varooom, I'm too slow, but the photo for others. In portrait, you naughty, naughty boy. 😄 In landscape you get more info because it would also show the the other battery terminal post and fittings that can sometimes give additional information - but should be required here

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That looks like our old favourite Varta E39 Silver Dynamic AGM 570 901 076 (096 AGM) (why the motor trade has to have so many different codes for the same item is beyond me). - (I realise you are in France link is for info and more part numbers, pdf in link and attached). - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e39/ ETA: Vatra link. -https://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/varta-silver-dynamic-agm/570-901-076 Note it's rate at 70ah, what odds that make to 68ah and the over-complicated VW computer program varooom would know better than I (varoom I will reply to your post after "dinner"). E39-Varta.pdf

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @unionfan, @stevo 1, look at your Owner's Manuals for information on what might need resetting when a battery is disconnected and reconnected or changed as it's usually a lot less than many think and even not all of the items listed may need to be reset. I don't know how low the battery would have to be to have varooom's Xmas illuminations and need to turn the steering full lock both ways but if there are a lot of warning lights and messages then turn the steering full lock each way costs nothing, is easy, no dirty hands and can be done from the comfort of inside the car so I would do it at the slightest flicker of a warning light or message. Many can extend the life of the car battery and save hassles the car's computer can give from having the battery in low charge by the appropriate use of a suitable battery charger as sometimes just driving the car will not sufficiently charge the battery.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Depending on what you mean I don't think you'd lose changes but varooom and others would know better than me. ETA: Just seen varooom had already covered that, which reminds me, you can get about £7 or £8 back on an EFB battery at a scrappy. The AGM batteries can arrive with 12.4v and a tick for that's fine. I'm with varoom to leave at least 2-3 hours or best overnight before taking a voltage reading and bear in mind unless you have an expensive multimeter the reading may be near enough but not necessary spot on. I took my optimistic multimeter (which he had bought me) over to a friend's and compared it with the two he'd had for a while and a new one he bought as the first two gave different readings to each other, we tested all four on two different car batteries, the new meter he bought was furthest from the other three which gave different but close readings to each other.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks, call it 15hp, at 2,700rpm, more hp than I was expecting, how this relates to a constant 10% incline would be dependant on how long in road distance the car was kept in 5th.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Unfortunately it sounds like you got the battery charger a bit late. Following the car's Owner's Manual and battery charger instructions are needed to get the best from the recharging. Presumably the Bosch charger has a regeneration mode, winter and maintenance settings, hopefully you will not need the regeneration mode with your new battery use and the experience you have now. Just out of my interest which model Bosch charger have you got, if you want to say? Warrior193 makes a good point that a new battery might not arrive to you fully charged so do check its state of charge is enough before fitting to your car. Personally I would not be surprised if putting the new battery in good state of charge on the car allows the use of stop/start during or after the first reasonable length and use of the car, but I am often wrong. After the test I would get all error codes cleared just in case they might confuse the VW computer programs, you might find there are more than expected from having the battery in a low state for so long, or I could again be wrong. Good luck.

I was thinking of the same car you did the mathematics for in your previous post, I don't know the revs thought you might, but 56mph (90kph), tyre the same so stick with 28cm radius. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Be great if you could report back, thanks. I would think this might be the case and it would also depend on how long and and how fast the recharge was, as far as I know if the discharge is low long and slow then the recharge is best at long and slow and generally best done that way. A fully recharged old battery will not be the same as a fully recharged new battery, they wear so even if you done a very long low, reconditioning charge off a smart charger it can only do so much. Many leave it too later to recover a battery that been used and abused which is why I try to promote prevention rather than cure, recharge the battery before it gets too low. The extreme weather this summer in the UK will have hastened the end for many batteries here, those that have not already been recharged or changed will be need one or the other as the cold weather really starts soon, I bet even more car batteries than usual will be replaced this season, some before they should have been and some as usual unnecessarily as a good (over) sale item.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @musa800 10m, I would suggest you get nearer, a lot nearer, to the car to lock it and unlock it, I have no proof but feel it would wear the battery more from a distance, certainly if there is interference in the area, the greater the distance the greater the chance of interfere. I would imagine that the alarms systems did at least vary over the years but again do not know. I am surprised that a 2016 car still has a spare key (blade) only and not two remotes as with my wife's but car manufacturers work to decimal places of pennies / cents with costings. From 2016 Rapid Owner's Manual for yourself and other viewers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. To me a perfect fit with VW's computer programs. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I don't think you need worry about two decimal places to the power figures. 😄 It was more than I was expecting but I was thinking of whatever the revs are for 56mph in 5th (on the flat) - so @Thefeliciahacker what would the power figure be for that please as you now have the other figures? I've got a spread sheet for rpm to wheel/tyres and gearing (no idea if it includes 3% for rolling circumference) but I've no idea of the car's gearing and would mess up your figures anyway (other than tyre size).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @chimaera On my wife's 2015 Fabia (from the VW confusingly called 'Operating Instructions') Owner's Manual / Driver's Handbook.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. (I was still typing as you posted.) You may well be right as I don't know the OP's model but using the keyblade on my wife's 2015 Fabia set the alarm off for her and when I tried later with the keyblade. Now originally we may both have initially set the alarm off by turning the keyblade in the wrong direction by habit, I don't know as I quickly had to stop it as it was at night and obviously now is too early in the morning to try again going the correct way (if I remembered the correct way as its arse-about-face to my mind). I'll try later if I remember.