nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Always worth checking the fuses, if any are 'blown' then of course you want to find out why. If you don't have the Owner's Manual with you you can download a pdf copy, select VIN or model and time of year. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just for your info, doesn't alter the great info AG Falco has given you. The online copies of the 'Owner's Manual' are just pdf copies of the paper printed copy you have (beyond a certain point they change but not for your year). There are two pdf copies for 2016, 05.2016 and 11.2016, both have 'fig 195' but on one page number different. You can find the pdf copies here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look at the workshop manual and see how it should be set up.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I would not imagine the sticky would hinder the cable much if at all. To test you could pull against the spring and see how strong the action is, or have someone sit in the car to press and release the accelerator pedal whilst you look at how well the throttle cable operates. Probably best to remove the sticky as it will only get mucky. I see you have 7 wires and not 5 as I thought.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Oh toot, that's not motorsport snobbery and elitism is it. 😄 I see your point but might it be applying the opposite extreme. I used to change my car on average every 12 months, usually within three years, but the last one I had for 15 years (not intentionally) and I've seen where some have had a car 30, 40, 50 years, some with regular use still. As with much in life how something is looked after at the start of life and early years can contribute to how well things go and for how long. Most people consider looking after a new car well but less so as with the car's age and accumulated use yet as many of us older people know more attention and care is needed at these later stages not less, things wear and wear out and don't operate as well as previously. Paying more than is needed is relative, I'm sure racers don't want to pay more than is needed but I bet they do because they are often well into diminishing returns and using much greater volumes of the expensive consumables. They would have to be at the extreme levels of finance in their motorsport to be able to check the benefit and need of the expensive consumables but then that would probably be controlled by politics, sponsorship and other considerations. Perhaps how much they can bend the rules and get away with it, without being caught cheating, as a matter of sportsmanship of course. 🤣 But I believe we all have our oil beliefs and it's each to their own. I do wonder why VW need to have such tight specification needs for their engines, it not (just?) corporate mutual deals and I'm sure it wouldn't be to make up for any engineering compromises or changes for whatever reasons or unexpected consequences of real world use, perhaps they're just control freaks. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Try a Search on 'This Forum' (top right corner of this page) or at 7 euros a time(?) cost see below just posted by varooom. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I am NOT an expert in oils sales and marketing but I do have years of experience in sales, retail and B2B (as some jargonists might have said, business to business to the rest of us) and it's as rum4mo has put in my understanding. Taking another motoring example oil filters, many different brand names go on to oil filters made on the same production line but this doesn't necessarily mean they will all be made exactly the same. Have a look on YouTube Americans, and some others cutting open oil filters. I understand what toot has put about price not always relating to quality and as a former hi-fi nut probably know more than most about diminishing returns on further costs and expenditure. I'm used to different people having different beliefs about oil from my dealings with "classic" car owners where surprisingly to me those with the older cars were more likely to want and accept better oils. The more conservative owners with newer old cars often just went go for old brand names and weight ranges not accepting or knowing that sometimes whilst the brand name is the same the actual oil will be different from its original formulation anyway because of developments and the passing of time and might even be made by a different company anyway. IIRC Halfords Classic 20w50, Wilco and Duckhams Q are (were) all Comma (a Brazilian company). toot, just think of the oil like the petrol but bear in mind you have base stocks that can be varied and additive packages that can be varied. I try to buy the better oils when I see them on offer rather than strictly when I need them, though I did get lucky with the Fabia's transmission oil as I didn't look ahead but got a good oil for the same price as a cheap oil, so why would I bother with the cheap oil then - and I couldn't find where VW would let me know the quantity I needed.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Ian, I've just deleted what I put as I've just read @langers2k post and it's as he put, not that I understand cookies other than they're what Americans call biscuits. That link previously worked for me as I had first found the the Owner's Manual where I always looked, on https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models . Thank you @langers2k for the explanation, it answers my question to @johnboy60.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi Richard, yeap I know, don't list bulbs either or how to change the door mirrors indicator bulbs. Until a number of weeks ago I ran a 1973 MG Midget as my only car for 15 years and other "classics" (over-priced and over-valued old cars) for about 15 years prior to that, so I'm used to the Driver's Handbook being comprehensive and helpful. IMO for engine oil & filter changes once a year or 10k-miles, whichever is sooner (soonest?) is the minimum - but it depends on a number of factors. If a garage is doing the job they may just do a cold quick change. If you do it yourself you can have the existing engine oil as warm as possible before draining to be able to get as much existing oil and muck out as possible and leave the oil to drain as long as possible to get as much existing oil and muck out as possible. This will mean you get more fresh new oil in and it is less diluted by the smaller amount of residue existing oil and muck left in. Towards the end of the drain I also pour some warm(ed) fresh oil in and allow that to fully drain to act as a final flush. As well as the thoroughness you may decide to consider the timeliness and frequency as well as the regularity and if your approximately 2 long runs a month aren't that long or regular you might consider changing the engine oil and filter every 6 months or 5k-miles instead if you want the car long term. Many will say as long as the oil is to spec get the cheapest you can, I'm not in that camp, I see meeting the spec as just the minimum standard I prefer to use good quality oils in the engine, gearbox (and rear axle) as the better oils offer better protection and for longer giving greater margins in the vehicles use and for if somethings go wrong. I went from twice a year engine oil and filter changes to once a year and using better quality oil (and filter) as I I used to 20 and 30(?) years ago. Of course there's much more to maintaining the car for a long life than just the engine especially with these modern and more modern cars. Take a general tip from me, don't let your car battery get low in charge even if the car still starts and the lights seem bright enough. And you can't drive these more modern cars always on economy mindset they need blow-out (Italian tune-up) runs than even more than with the usual draggy-arsed driver "classics" and that's not steady motorway stuff (check your online Owner's Manual). Here endth the sermon. 🙂

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. What route got you to such a short address? The link works directly for me and I can access the Owner's Manual, have you left some sort of open path, it's magic as it goes straight to the model being discussed, 'ow da do dat den? 😮

@toot careful, you might feel bad if Skoda/VW/VAG business goes a bit pop, you'll think of the good times then. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything Could that just be a typo error (or prefilled format), have they actually said that is what was put into your engine. @toot is 0w-16 used over here, my wife's 2015 car is the latest car we have, and are probably ever likely to have so I know even less about moderns than I do my previous car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Cross referenced (hopefully) conformation from Ring Automotive Ltd, something for the bedroom wall. - https://www.ringautomotive.com/files/mydocs/Other_Catalogues/12V_Wallchart.pdf 12V_Wallchart.pdf

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Let's go "old skool" as the middle-aged say, illustration below from the 2008 Lucas bulb catalogue, not amber but that doesn't matter to dimensions and illustration, a 501 bulb. Note there is a 501A bulb too I don't know what the difference is there but it looks like ETA: 501 is clear, 501A is amber Modern - WY5W is amber and WR5W is red, see attached pdf but don't expect all sellers to follow this colour code. R37r8_W5W.pdf

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Are these what you want? UK eBay seller and item as an example only (and I've never seen stuff on Amazon at "lowest prices"). - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195217718294

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Richard, are you doing the engine oil & filter changes yourself? Are you doing the servicing yourself?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I wasn't thinking of taking anything apart, hence my comment about your photos, just driver/owners type maintenance / cleaning stuff. I didn't think of the door being the issue but it could well be, door speaker leaks I've heard of before in other cars, I was thinking of depending on the type of sunroof, drain off that and the drainage in front of windscreen scuttle area where things like tree and garden detritus can sometimes build up quickly and block drainage channels. None of these are probably your problem but even a non-technical non-mechanical person like me has been able to sort these easy type of issues, for leaks on static vehicle only a matter of remembering how gravity works and that where the leak appears might be away from where it starts. I'm sure the garage and lease company would object for various reasons but with the carpet that wet I'd want at least that section cut out so less water is held and it can vacuumed, sponged or clothed out regularly to stop accumulation and reduce the effects of damp. If you could lift the carpet you might find not only does it hold a lot of water but there's a lot of water beneath it. With carpet cut out (or removed) an over mat can be still be secured if required, a rubber over mat should be heavy enough not to float in use in shallow water. Over mats can easily be removed for drying and cleaning where required and need not be there laying or soaking up the water when the car isn't used. Wrong time of year for a suitable heater and suitable dehumidifier to be used in the cabin. As I put I'd play up the health bit to get something at least started and I'd check how much responsibility the lease company has in this, I've never leased so don't know what the contracts are about ownership and responsibilities. Unfortunately companies now Skoda / Dealership / Lease company tend to give more attention to those who shout the loudest and are most persistent. If you can find anything in the contract often you can get them to "escalate" the issue within the organisation. Best of luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. By coincidence I was just looking at this for someone else, (Ring Water Ingress Detection Dye). - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RLD3 You might have already done this but have you checked that all drainage points aren't blocked or not connected (sunroof?, scuttle area?, sills?) . I have no idea about your model but have dealt with a few cars with leaks and a few have been blocked drainage points and my wife's previous car didn't have a drain tube/hose put back properly coming back from the Dealership's bodyshop after a hit 'n' run accident repair. Again I don't know your car but with other cars I've found the old style soundproofing matting can hold gallons and take a bit of effort and days to fully dry, also some carpeting holds a lot of water under it before wicking through. Fabias have a larger cabin for the size of the car, IIRC largest in its class when my wife bought her 2015 Fabia. If you have not already done so I would try sending the photos of the water on the carpeting and remove the other photos from here and mention that mold isn't good for you (as per the very sad recent national news).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. My wife's 2015 hatch has a bit of a 'clunk' over humps and down potholes, annoying and hasn't been located. If yours is on acceleration and deceleration that is a stage further perhaps, or a clunk from elsewhere to the one on my wife's car. If you are worried about it I would record it on video or audio and ask about it at a garage. I find as a passenger (or driver) I heard different noises that come from the engine bay at different times, I guess it's all the over-complicated computer programs doing their various interventions and after 5 years I've stopped hearing them and trying to guess what the noises might be and if they should sound as they do.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. What's the tension like on the drive belt and tensioner, if too tight it could play up the bearing in the water pump, new or not. ETA: In four years since you fitted it lots could happen and with the quality of some modern made parts the tensioner could be faulty. Water pumps can whine, and alternator, something I have tried before is to spray (GT85 would be my choice now) the drive shafts on the water pump (this will not stop the pump bearing grinding) but if the noise changes there's a clue, I had a noise stop by doing this on my car and same for a mate, if it was crud/grit/**** washed away I've no idea but the noises didn't return - this might not be the case for you but it might help with locating. Then try the same trick on the alternator fan drive shaft and tensioner roller drive depending on type, anything that might spin on crud/grit/****, you're not supposed to get it on the drive belt or belt drive surfaces. If you're sure the whine is from the gearbox is it easy to drop out a little oil to see it's colour and consistency and see, feel, if there are any bits are in it. That's me out of ideas.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well time will tell - but - I am with MicMac as a big fan of the battery disconnect and 'discharge', I favour press and hold brake pedal with ignition on so that the brake lights would light if the battery was not disconnected, as this is a quick, easy and free thing to try and can work well particularly on older cars. However some on here at the very least deride this idea, as you have seen, and my personal troll seems to get actually angry, so as to not bog the thread down with the usual 'debate' against me and that idea and as MicMac had already put it I left it. I did not put a 'Like' against his post so as not to draw my personal troll towards MicMac, but he still got derided so I might as well now. 😄 The battery disconnect and 'discharge' often is not necessary if you have a scan tool but the old turn-it-off-and-on-again often sorts out all sorts of computers and their brain-farts and these, VW particularly, car computer programs are very complex, over-complicated, intertwined and over-intrusive so who knows what small unrelated issue effects what else. While the battery was disconnected I am also a big believer in fully charging the battery (as appropriate to car) particularly with these VW computer programs as all sorts of unexpected warnings, error codes and issues can come from the car battery being low even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough. I did wonder about how you were doing the battery changes, always follow the routine in the Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Car battery recharging (often rather than premature replacement) is a hobbyhorse of mine and my personal troll thought I was making out I was some sort of expert and was too authoritative in my posts (generally) hence my post prescript (and signature note if you can see that) as I never intended to give the impression I was any sort of expert in anything. If you read all that sorry but sometimes it is good to clear your chest and no animals were harmed in the making of this post. 🤣 Be good to see if you report back everything is still fine after a week of use. Driving can also help with clearing some issues (not say so with this). Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The following relates to when the warning has come on but gives an idea of the type of, not necessarily exactly same, driving style needed before and to prevent the warning light. Obviously it goes a bit against the advice in the same book about economical driving, going at 50 mph at 3,000-5,000 rpm for up to half an hour, this is not how many are used to driving particularly "small" cars or "small" engines. From the digital Owner's Manual, issue date of 14.6.2021. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. hetty1, yep, well done. 👍 For the car, do not rely on waiting for any warnings from the car's computers, prevention is better than cure, often by the time you get these it's just a historical report, use your experience, intelligence and senses. My wife's 2015 Fabia has been late putting up warning messages, and also put up an erroneous message, but as we are used to cars from the 1960s and '70s we're used to not relying on car computers and thinking there are buttons on the dash to clear all car and driving problems. You are driving the car so if you want or need to brake then do so, and changing down a gear will mean the 1,500 revs will drop the road speed if you don't touch the accelerator, you can also be braking. The car's systems require the type of driving that has always been required at times with how some cars were used but now the effects demand more attention. Cars that were always pootled around and/or always run on relatively short distances needed blow-out (Italian tune-ups) runs but just clogged themselves up quietly until hopefully some release at servicing, with accumulative effects over the years. Plus the driving style for fuel economy (and emissions) was encouraged and pushed. What you have to bear in mind is that the car engine is very ancient technology and even throwing electronics and computer programs at it only advances it so much from its beginnings and the advances on mpg and emissions have been stretched so thin that more gains come with so much complexity as they have for a good number of years already. The cars are also bigger and heavier with wide wheels and tyres so putting more burden on getting further gains.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @hetty1 , I hope this might help for future posts, it can sometimes help to have the model details shown in the bit on the l/h/s of each post, I’ve no idea what that bit is called, it’s the bit with your posting 'name'. I don’t think this info is shown on all devices to all viewers but you only have to enter the info once (and change as required) so worth the effort I think. The following helped another poster get the details on display. – click on your 'name', very top right of this page on the drop menu that appears click on 'Profile' click on the black box 'Edit Profile' scroll down to 'Car Info' enter details click on green box 'Save'. This might save you having to repeat some information and tell some the details without having to ask or be referring to a different something not with your car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeah, difficult to apply the normal logic to this as you are fighting against VW computer programing and PO (previous owners) wiring and probably the later is the worse for you but (to me) it is best still to start again at the beginning and go through step by step. At least now you have more info on what is on your car and the wiring diagram so you may be able to see how much it varies from factory set up. With electrics if something is intermittent you can think of poor wiring or connections or faulty item by the computer programs add another layer of complexity - or anger and misery as I see it. 😁 Keep your chin up old boy, toodle pip, until the next installment.