nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Don't just rely on fault codes or the lack of them, the computers programs rely on parameters, you have your own computer which works on parameters too, your senses, knowledge and experience can tell you when there's something not quite right you don't want to dismiss this just because the computers don't give a fault code or give a code that seems unrelated. It's been proven that VW, and others, computer programs shouldn't be fully trusted. 😉 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As I've found on here some people don't get the concept of the "Italian tune-up" and think it means driving like a lunatic and/or thrashing the car to death so it takes a lot of explaining and a professional would be at risk if a customer misunderstands and blames them for something stupid they do and/or any damage to car or otherwise. I've been on both sides, being a member of the public of course and trying to help customers with advice of what they could try for themselves for free and sometimes the saying "no good deed goes unpunished" is correct so it makes you selective or hesitate to offer that type of advice. Here's some advice you can't punish me for whether you take it or not - I've no idea what fuel Sainsbury's use but its the cleaners you also want, in my old car I often and frequently used the higher octane fuels for the additional cleaner additives and it seemed to work very well judging by the condition of of the carbs when I took them apart and how the car ran when using them. Try Tesco Momentem, Shell V-Power, Esso Synergy Supreme+, Jet Ultra, Texaco Supreme, BP Ultimate (my least favourite) - all for their additional cleaning additives, you will still be best giving occasional Italian tune-up runs too. Try a couple of tankfuls, and not just a couple of top-ups of a few litres each time, and see if there's any improvement after using a couple of tankfulls. All of those are up to E5 and some, depending on where in the country may be zero ethanol - but I thought I'd read that the Fabia engines, earlier models at least ran well with ethanol(?). Supermarkets don't always sell fuel at low prices now - but the E5 (labelled) fuel will be more expensive than the E10 (usually, a fairly local station had V-Power at less than the cost of Tesco E10 as I discovered when driving by it after filling up at Tescos main store).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you're taking the risk as chimaera has put above also keep topping up the tank with fresh diesel as you use the vehicle to dilute the petrol as much as possible, even 2 or 3 litres at a time (the pumps will supply this small amount but IIRC need about 5 litres for pump delivery to meet accuracy requirements). Petrol is a powerful cleaner so will wash away too much. Better still as Phil886 has put if you have breakdown cover contact them, AA specialise in this DAHIK.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good point. But my English is not that good either. 😄 The thoroughness - [care and attention to detail] of the oil change can be as important as the frequency/regularity/timeliness - [how often / how regularly / when required, not left for later] especially when using oils that meet the specifications and no more. - [oils that are good enough to meet the minimum specification but do not offer additional protection and stay within specification under more heat or cold, and for longer] Hope that helps.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Having an MoT test pass is good, but . . . A lot of people in this country rely on an MoT as a state of health report but this must be put in context, the MoT, here at least, is just to say the car passed a statutory minimum standard to one trained person's opinion at one moment in time only. It does not mean the vehicle is good or as good as it could be, only that it meets the requirements I have just put, and another tester may have a different opinion, and the car could have something that fails the test at any point after the test. Over recent years the UK MoT test has become stricter and more comprehensive but it still remains that a car that is far from its best can pass, obviously it shouldn't have major issues, that are tested for, but there is some much on a car to perform below par and to go wrong. The testers are trained but they do not have x-ray eyes and have many limitations in what they can check and have to check. Here a car can pass the MoT with advisories that need attention but often some may not be attended to and at next year's MoT they may not be mentioned yet remained the same with no attention give between MoTs or the same advisories show again. Long and short of it, in the UK at least, there can be over-confidence in a car having an MoT, some people think it means nothing needs attention until the next MoT.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Unless things are different where you are to here, or you already have some oil in stock, you will be buy a 4 or 5 litres bottle or four 1-litre bottles so you will have more than enough. If you do a poor job of the oil change you may only use 2 litres plus of oil. How much you get in depends on how much you take out - the usual quick cold drain usually gets less old contaminated oil and muck out of the engine. So less fresh new clean oil goes back in. And the effects of the fresh new oil are diluted some what by the residue of old contaminated oil and muck left in the engine from the quick cold drain. If you drain the engine oil when it is hot and leave it to drain longer then more of the old contaminated oil and muck will drain out of the engine. This way more fresh new clean oil goes back in and its effects are not so diluted by the smaller amount of residue old contaminated oil and muck left in the engine. There will always be some old contaminated oil and muck left in, you want that to be as little as possible and practical. Leave the oil filler cap off to help with draining too. Towards the end of draining the old oil and muck tip in to the engine a little fresh new oil, that has been warmed, to act as a little flushing and let that drain out fully too. When refilling with fresh new oil fill in stages, better to underfill and top up once, twice or more than to overfill. Check again after you have driven the car and top up again if required, do not overfill. Same principles apply for changing gearbox oil. The thoroughness of the oil change can be as important as the frequency/regularity/timeliness especially when using oils that meet the specifications and no more.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sounds like it's the rain - or water getting on to your electrics, with your original post I did wonder about the ignition switch but with the rain bit now added more general electrics, or hitting the top of the dash to bring it on or try to stop it, or perhaps the wires that bridge the door. - Stick around some electrics experts might/should be along later.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Not all items are given a service interval, some are even for 'life', who's or what's life is sometimes unclear, seems to be once the vehicle has passed any sort of warranty period for many items. I doubt the car manufacturers would care about the servicing of a car out of the longest warranty period given, other than for selling parts and labour, and certainly not an 18 year-old car - but you might as the owner/user. Lots of components, parts and items have obviously lasted 18 years already but you might consider some of those might have deteriorate to a point where some people might consider they' ae better replaced (other people will have an opposite view or much less holistic (if that's the right word) view). Depending on how much you have done or actually used your 1979 VW bus you will know what I mean and agree or disagree. Like the drive (fan) belt you put a photo up of earlier, it may have a general 'life' of use/age/kilometres but a careful full inspection may show an increased or decreased 'life' span for it. If you do not know the history of the vehicle, components and parts it's even more of a gamble than when you do.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. This might help, earlier Fabia estate perhaps but I don't think (don't know) there'd be much difference, and tumble dryers might be lighter to lift in than washing machines depending on how old they are, old washing machines had very heavy lumps of material to stabilise the drums.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. When I had water in a much smaller reflector than that I drilled three small holes to let the water out and air in and that worked, difficult to see/notice the holes too unless you looked for them. Cheap and easy to try if you have a small drill bit (possibly better done with a hand drill or with care if you only know of power tools).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The engine is one of the less important system/components of the car, you want to check first things like brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres) then on to important electricals like lights, heater blower motor, wipers, horn, etc.. If you've got a petrol engine then yes, engine oil and filter, air filter, spark plugs, perhaps using appropriate cleaners on MAF and throttle body, perhaps a coolant change is required (brake fluid), perhaps change of transmission fluid, perhaps a change of power steering fluid. You can get a Haynes workshop manual which will include regular servicing schedules (how good it is for other work on the cars I do not know).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. varooom have you got a link to the info and details on this please that I could read (SSP? and what does SSP stand for?). TIA.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. See also other thread about possible cause of high idle. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a read of your Owner's Manual it will tell you about this and a lot more very useful information on your car. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Don't be so sure and don't wait for the warning lights and messages (on anything on the car) prevention is better than cure. This summer's very hot weather wasn't good for batteries and now the shorter days and colder weather is here and both get more so there will be more than even usual for the time of year battery issues. I've tried to advice charging car batteries to help against these sudden issues at inconvenient times, like when it's wet , dark and cold, and save some unnecessary premature new battery purchases. From the 2019 Owner's Manual. - Earth point for charging. -

Thoroughly clean again and this time add some sort of protectorate to help prevent the return of the crud. I use Contralube 770 but there will be other such available. - https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/827/category/154

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The cleaner is normally just a cleaner and not much of a protectorate, that's another product (of your choice, I use Contralube 770 but there are probably many other alternatives). ETA: Also did you brush or scrape out the pins and connectors to get the crud out.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Personally I would crimp a new ring terminal on to the wire, if the existing wire does not have sufficient slack to allow for vibration I would extend that wire (if it is not easy to replace completely). Obviously take whatever precautions are necessary, disconnecting the battery is a good idea and WILL NOT cause any problems, just make sure the power windows are fully closed and you will need to reset the time of day clock. Check your 'Owner's Manual' for full advice and instructions. Sample ONLY here. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. But how are you measuring this fuel consumption? If we take the 18 miles as being pretty accurate or near enough how is the 1/4 tank use measured? At about 7/gallon you'd probably be able to smell the petrol leaking or coming out of the exhaust (at standstill with engine running and you at end of exhaust). Personally I take no notice of the what the computer tells me is the predicted range as it only relates to whatever measurements were made in the last time frame and set of circumstances which may or may not be replicated and I don't know the level of its accuracy anyway. It's like the times when someone tells you there's plenty of fuel in the car when there isn't.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Meant to put - does the sender appear to stick after the car has been parked up for a few days or it sticks intermittently with regular frequent use, if not parked up then it does sound like perhaps sticking sender but if intermittent perhaps it could be after sender, a connection, wire, or gauge end. Plugging in a scan tool might show something up perhaps with live data.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It sounds like you're just reading off partial fuel gauge readings to see the mpg, don't do that. My wife's previous car, a Vauxhall (GM) product, from a full tank would go over 100 miles before showing about a gallon use, and this was from brand new, then it'd suddenly drop to somewhere near more accurate. Use the fuel gauge as just a 'gauge' and not an 'accurate' and don't let you fuel get too low and I used to when younger and had to push the car or use the spare can in some awkward places. Also don't fully trust what the computers might tell you with regards to mpg again use the info as a guide only. Some of the older folk here will probably remember driving old cars where the fuel gauges were broken and unreliable and using the tripometer to gauge when to fill up and using the rev-counter (on cars that had one) for road speed when the speedos were unreliable or inaccurate - now it would be using your brain to check the cars brains in some areas.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi welcome, a quarter of a tank to do 18 miles doesn't sound right, if you take the tank as 10 gallons (45 litres) then it's 18 miles uses 2.5 gallons which is about 7 mpg, If you are just taking the figures from what the car's computers/gauges tell you without checking them this could be the problem. You need to check by filling the fuel tank to first click of the petrol pump nozzle, zero your trip then when you next refill fill the fuel tank to first click of the petrol pump nozzle, divide the fuel quantity into the mileage covered on the trip (and reset it). Divide the litres by 4.546 to give you the number of gallons. This will give you an average mpg on this refill, it may or may not be very close to what the car tells you. Shorter journeys will generally give lower mpg but at 7 mpg I'd think you'd either be towing a house or have a noticeable fuel leak. HTH, do an mpg check as described above on a 20 mile journey if you really want to check just a short journey.

Wait and see what other much more knowledgeable than me posters think of your video, they'll probably be along tonight and over the weekend, they have tonnes and tons of experience and knowledge. Keep off the other subject unless really required or 'they' will say I've brainwashed disciples and rightly try an intervention to cure you. 🤣 😇 😈

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You've obviously at least one generation newer than me as you use the metric tonne and hold the phone in portrait. 😊 (You'll get more image and info into a a landscape shot generally). The sound is more clicking to me or something like trying striking a match against the rough surface of the matchbox, to me not being mechanical that doesn't sound right, as if it's failing to start its operation but as I put I'm not an expert in anything. I'd carefully use a stethoscope, well funnel and bit of hose to the ear and item, to check the noise is from the item and possibly where on the item. The bit about the battery is just a bit of micky-taking, well more often ****-taking or even sometimes anger, as I often suggest a car battery being too low despite it starting the car and the lights seeming bright enough can cause the VW computers and computer programs to throw up all sorts of unexpected problems. And I prefer taking the battery off the car to recharge in perhaps better and more stable conditions inside (many cars aren't garaged) and the recharge to be long, low and slow on a suitable battery charger to be more effective, this really annoys some and others think the car settings will collapse and all sorts of trouble will ensue but the Owner's Manuals seem to me to say different. There, you've forced me to set 'em offt agen. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes thanks thanks that's what I meant, I got my worms mixed up as usual, do you have a link to that?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I must admit I missed that point and can see your point in raising your point and now your other point - but that wasn't the point of my post. Not a red herring (a beloved term of you old hands it seems) but you'd also say 'a tangent' like the tangent made about the missing seat from the opening post about TREs. I was banging up a link to the open MOT source mentioned and quoted the text as an example of the type of info you can get from the link as some readers won't bother chasing the link or tracking back to the MoT manual. - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles It was also a bit of give and take as I was hoping someone would give me a route back to the inspectors' manual(?)/forum(?)/website(?). If you're still reading this far, I'm almost sure you've made a typo elsewhere on headlamp bulb but I'm sure you'd get out of it even though it also included a definite.