nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It sounds like you're just reading off partial fuel gauge readings to see the mpg, don't do that. My wife's previous car, a Vauxhall (GM) product, from a full tank would go over 100 miles before showing about a gallon use, and this was from brand new, then it'd suddenly drop to somewhere near more accurate. Use the fuel gauge as just a 'gauge' and not an 'accurate' and don't let you fuel get too low and I used to when younger and had to push the car or use the spare can in some awkward places. Also don't fully trust what the computers might tell you with regards to mpg again use the info as a guide only. Some of the older folk here will probably remember driving old cars where the fuel gauges were broken and unreliable and using the tripometer to gauge when to fill up and using the rev-counter (on cars that had one) for road speed when the speedos were unreliable or inaccurate - now it would be using your brain to check the cars brains in some areas.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi welcome, a quarter of a tank to do 18 miles doesn't sound right, if you take the tank as 10 gallons (45 litres) then it's 18 miles uses 2.5 gallons which is about 7 mpg, If you are just taking the figures from what the car's computers/gauges tell you without checking them this could be the problem. You need to check by filling the fuel tank to first click of the petrol pump nozzle, zero your trip then when you next refill fill the fuel tank to first click of the petrol pump nozzle, divide the fuel quantity into the mileage covered on the trip (and reset it). Divide the litres by 4.546 to give you the number of gallons. This will give you an average mpg on this refill, it may or may not be very close to what the car tells you. Shorter journeys will generally give lower mpg but at 7 mpg I'd think you'd either be towing a house or have a noticeable fuel leak. HTH, do an mpg check as described above on a 20 mile journey if you really want to check just a short journey.

Wait and see what other much more knowledgeable than me posters think of your video, they'll probably be along tonight and over the weekend, they have tonnes and tons of experience and knowledge. Keep off the other subject unless really required or 'they' will say I've brainwashed disciples and rightly try an intervention to cure you. 🤣 😇 😈

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You've obviously at least one generation newer than me as you use the metric tonne and hold the phone in portrait. 😊 (You'll get more image and info into a a landscape shot generally). The sound is more clicking to me or something like trying striking a match against the rough surface of the matchbox, to me not being mechanical that doesn't sound right, as if it's failing to start its operation but as I put I'm not an expert in anything. I'd carefully use a stethoscope, well funnel and bit of hose to the ear and item, to check the noise is from the item and possibly where on the item. The bit about the battery is just a bit of micky-taking, well more often ****-taking or even sometimes anger, as I often suggest a car battery being too low despite it starting the car and the lights seeming bright enough can cause the VW computers and computer programs to throw up all sorts of unexpected problems. And I prefer taking the battery off the car to recharge in perhaps better and more stable conditions inside (many cars aren't garaged) and the recharge to be long, low and slow on a suitable battery charger to be more effective, this really annoys some and others think the car settings will collapse and all sorts of trouble will ensue but the Owner's Manuals seem to me to say different. There, you've forced me to set 'em offt agen. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes thanks thanks that's what I meant, I got my worms mixed up as usual, do you have a link to that?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I must admit I missed that point and can see your point in raising your point and now your other point - but that wasn't the point of my post. Not a red herring (a beloved term of you old hands it seems) but you'd also say 'a tangent' like the tangent made about the missing seat from the opening post about TREs. I was banging up a link to the open MOT source mentioned and quoted the text as an example of the type of info you can get from the link as some readers won't bother chasing the link or tracking back to the MoT manual. - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles It was also a bit of give and take as I was hoping someone would give me a route back to the inspectors' manual(?)/forum(?)/website(?). If you're still reading this far, I'm almost sure you've made a typo elsewhere on headlamp bulb but I'm sure you'd get out of it even though it also included a definite.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. If it's not too late now - you don't say what gearbox you have (and I wouldn't know anyway about the boxes) but yours might relate to the following post below. I'm all for changing the gearbox oil but don't know about pump for filling as I've only used gravity fill on my cars, the few times I've done (and on "lifetime fill" that really benefited being at two or three life times later). You might have got a quicker answer, and better than mine, if you post in the relevant model section on here (see below the previous below). Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013) forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ Good luck.

The inspection manual is but I can no longer find a link to the inspectors' manual as I previously could. "7.1.2. Seat belt fitment and condition You must check any visible parts of: all seat belts fitted all child seat restraints fitted You do not need to inspect: a belt fitted with no corresponding seat a buckle or stalk with no corresponding belt You should lift folded seats to inspect . . . " https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/7-other-equipment#section-7-1-2

We'll have to see, perhaps later. 😉 Unless you've seen the video and you think it's some sort of audible early warning for the battery getting low, I still can't open the link.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome, sorry but the link doesn't open for me, perhaps you have to make the link available to be viewed by others but I don't know, seen this issues before with such links but can't remember how it was resolved. I doubt if I'd know what the noise is but others here might/would.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just thought, if you go to the 'CAR' menu on the infotainment it should shown and tell you if a bulb (or connection) has gone (or is playing up, or the computers but both are a different subject for now).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. Start by checking the bulb, the lamp holder and wire connections - you probably just need to replace the bulb with a new one, advice and instruction on this is in the Owner's Manual. If for some reason you've not got your paper printed copy then you can get a pdf version from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models To the best of my memory you want a 382 (P21W) bulb - but always check any info you get from any source particularly from the internet, pub or me. Do yourself a favour and don't buy cheap bulbs as they often don't last long, the heavy-duty/longlife type described ones seem to be the old standard grade instead of the cheaper (crap) ones now. If it's not that come back for more suggestions - even if the bulb looks OK I'd still change it for a (good) new one whilst I'm there, I've known intermittent a bulb (and a fuse) on cars.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'm all for changing fluids and using better quality where possible/appropriate but even I wouldn't think about it before the car was about 10-12 years old then at say 20 years old. Last year a Felicia owner on here clean/flush/changed the power steering fluid on his 21-year-old car despite the likes of mechanics and others saying it wasn't worth it and found that it did help the steering and was very glad he'd done it. The following is just for general info. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Same with smaller modern cars. Also think of the bits that come off these wider tyres and go into the local environment. The fashion for many decades has been to have wide wheels (often wider than needed), bigger wheels "to fill the wheel arch" (often bigger than needed), wide tyres to fit the wide wheels (often wider than needed) and of course ultra low ratio tyres (often much lower profile than needed). But that's fashion for yer, then of course there's the element of 'mine's bigger than yours'. Modern cars are a heavier of course, some a lot heavier, VW particularly seem to like to have their models with plenty of weight, but still most have wheels bigger than really required on many model versions. I am very biased though having had old over-priced and over-valued old cars for the last 30+ years as "dailies", the last having 13"x5" wheels 😲 with 145 or 155/80r13 tyres, 😲 the previous version had my preferred 3.5" wheels 😲 😲 on 145/80r13 tyres, of course neither of these where particularly overweight old cars let alone overweight moderns. My heavy car had 185(80) r14 tyres for it's performance (torque) too. Well that's my (oversized) bellyache over I'll get off of my (hobby) horse and drink my milk. 🙃

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It's different strokes for different folks, each to their own and people can do as they please but according to what's in the Owner's Manuals you don't need to use any sort of memory saver, plus I think the effect of disconnecting the battery (computer "turning it off 'n' on agen") can be a useful reset to help some programs from not getting their knickers in a twist as we all know and have experienced they sometimes can, just my not technical experience tho'. I was surprised to find with my wife's 2015 Fabia that only the time of day clock needing resetting despite the list for resetting having a few more items on it. I'd be more wary with the likes of BMW and Merc car battery or batteries as they seem to like even more complex computer programs and more computers and sensors than even VW.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You've got those, to me not so convenient at times, digital type of Owner's Manual. The 8.7.2019 version has basically the same as the earlier versions, except as Gammyleg seemed to get with his earlier model, a few warning lights come on for "a short distance". It may be that with other marques disconnecting the car battery has a load more hassle but not the Skoda models according to the few Owner's Manuals I've looked at on the subject.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. RHD = right hand drive as we use in the UK, so LHD is obviously left hand drive as in most other places in the world like Italy. Imagine standing behind your car at the boot end looking forward at it, the steering wheel is on the right in the UK and on the left in Italy. HTH (hope this helps).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. To finish, despite what some think or say the car battery can be recharged using a suitable battery recharger if the battery has been depleted too much for the normally driving to get the alternator to do the job. Also of course if the battery is old and had too much use (and/or abuse) it may be difficult to fully revive it for many reasons. The following is from the 05.2016 Superb Owner's Manual. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I was was changing the battery, having learnt from someone else doing the coding last time, I'd not bother changing the manufacturer of the battery as on my wife's 2015 Fabia it was a three character code (JBC) that wasn't shown on the new battery and the new battery was a Bosch which I'm told is just a label as the battery is actually made by Varta. The serial number from the factory for the battery was 1111111111 (same as for other Fabias) this was altered to 1111111112. In my case the battery type was change from EFB. The vehicle's computer program only seemed to really need to know the type of battery it was and its Ah and to perhaps recognise that the battery was new as it was change and not the old worn battery that was there before. I could be wrong but this suggests to me that you might not have read, or fully read, the relevant Owner's Manual or not fully followed its advice/instructions. PDF copies of the Owner's Manuals can be downloaded from the following link if required. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just follow the instructions in your Owner's Manual (other than perhaps it's insistence that it's a Dealership/garage job). Look up what needs resetting on your vehicle, often it's not as much as listed in the Owner's Manual. You don't say what year your car is so just general advice - . recoding the new battery will speed up the car 'learning' the battery is now better . disconnect the vehicle battery with the the ignition turned off . before disconnecting the battery, close the electric windows, sunroof stuff, boot tailgate and all the windows . you might have to reset the time of day clock (that's all I really needed to do on my wife's 2015 Fabia but I check the other stuff it mentioned for that model just in case as VW computers are nasty bits of work and you don't want to upset them. ETA: Link to download PDF version of Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thoughts - other than what you've already listed, have you fitted any new or changed parts, standard or non-standard, or added in extra items or made any conversions anything thing done a bit before you started having these problems any water leaks on the vehicle did you check connectors sockets, plugs, pins, wires for crud or damage any sort of pattern to issues - it's hot, cold, raining, after being parked up, electric load, etc.., etc.. That me out of ideas, other than all earths but there are so many.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you have not got a paper printed copy of the Owner's Manual you can download a pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Bit late now I know but I saw the following when looking for something else, a description of how to do the work, doesn't look too bad to do, again I'd spray some GT85 on the tabs to lubricate them. So for others and future reference. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. Have a read of the Owners Manual as it gives this sort of information and a lot more that you need or are best to know about your car to save you time, hassle and money and unnecessary garage visits and repairs. If you do not have the paper printed version you can download a pdf version from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. - Observera att jag inte är mekaniker eller expert på någonting "Den 98-oktaniga bensinen kommer även fortsättningsvis endast att innehålla 5% etanol och saluförs under beteckningen E5." - https://www.gmhk.se/sv/bensin.html "Fuel with an octane rating of 98 will still only contain 5% ethanol and is sold as E5 fuel." - https://www.gmhk.se/en/fuel-sweden.html# "Bensinutbudet i Sverige ändras den 1/9 2021 på grund av ändringar i den så kallade reduktionsplikten. Standardbensinen idag är 95-oktanig bensin med inblanding av 5% etanol. Denna inblandning kommer att höjas till 10%, och denna bensin går under beteckningen E10. Bilar yngre än 10 år lär kunna köra på denna bensin utan problem. För äldre bilar kan problem uppstå, framför allt i bränslepump, packningar och slangar. BIL Sweden har sammaställt en lista över ett större antal personbilsmodeller och hur de tål E10-bensin. Den listan hittar du här." "Se i övrigt Transportstyrelsens information om E10." - https://www.gmhk.se/sv/bensin.html "Fuel types in Sweden change on September 1st 2021 due to new regulations. Standard fuel in Sweden today is 95 octane fuel with an admixture of 5% ethanol. This admixture will be increased to 10%; this fuel will be sold as E10. Cars yonger than 10 years old should have no problem with this fuel. Older cars may suffer probles with fuel pumps, tubing and gaskets. BIL Sweden has collected a list of vehicles and their tolerance to E10 fuel This list can be found here." - https://www.gmhk.se/en/fuel-sweden.html#