nta16

Just seeing another side and a wider view. Possibly the OP in a different manner, bored no, boring you decide, oh you have. (I did like the remembering of keep up dear though.) I don't mind justifying myself to you as you put things so well. Love and kisses as always. 😄

I think the troll is more after a pile on, a small gang of the like (small)minded, bullies are usually very cowardly. I don't need to wait for play time or go behind a bike shed, I'm here and now but I'd sooner be left alone or at least not picked on. Obviously I'm the one that will get the blame as I'm not the weaker - so I walk away. 🙃

My stalking troll has once again not read what I've put or deliberately chosen to misunderstand. I have previously tried to give answers to all his questions to me be he didn't reply when I asked a question of him so I thought I'd not put up with this one-sided attitude and ignored all his posts at and about me but just as explanation now. I didn't put I've only once charged a car battery, I've done quite a few for neighbours and friends (some of who were also neighbours). I've removed lots of wheels, it was the bloody silly VW bolts instead of studs that gave me sciatica, last time was a couple of weeks ago, all four on the vehicle. I really wish I hadn't worked on my cars since my 30s unfortunately again I was working on my car only a few weeks ago. I can have views on VCDS and other diagnostic systems without owning them, obviously not to the same depth but I've never said I've owned or used these machines, I don't need to own these to say I don't like what I've seen and know of them, I can say I don't like anything I want to, I have used my neighbour's scan tool because it's a good tool and I have free access to it. My stalking troll obviously isn't as diligent as he used to be, I've obviously been losing my power of attraction for him which is good in one way but may mean others are having to put up with it, or ignore it, in my place. If only I wasn't so attractive. 🤣

@Mkcheznous you are right to check and cross reference any information you get, particularly off t'interweb. My experience is that many (most?) databases have errors and omissions even from manufacturers (possibly not so much from factories now). Ebay sellers seem to copy vehicle checks or get the information from the same or similar source(s) so errors and omissions are copied and/or repeated. In the past I've ordered parts that I know will fit my car despite the seller's vehicle check saying they won't fit and have seen part code numbers that might fit but wouldn't be suitable for particular application. Tailgate struts with the correct part number should be an easy order and fit from good suppliers giving good information or an easy to use site or system unfortunately not all are capable of this, including many very large manufacturers so you get pushed into over-thinking when it shouldn't be required. You can get the struts with different heads, length, stroke, rod diameter, rod/body end type, extended length, force range, then you'd measure ball end centres, you may want these if overloading the boot, bonnet lid or where ever you are using them. 😁

Yes I know, have a quick reread of what I put. Prices have dropped no end over the years. Here is just one example of OBDEleven, "next generation device", "Pro pack", "Officially licensed by Volkswagen Group (VAG)" (unit is above what is normally required) . - https://obdeleven.com/en/home/62-pro-pack-0758277987813.html Uhm, probably on your car and your use. 😄 IF you put your mind to it and expanded the reasons for possibly doing so you'd work out why this could be so. Of course you can charge the battery on the car, and still connected, there are reasons why often it's better not to do so, particularly for those of a more modern mindset and experience. There are more than just you reading these posts and they may think the car does it all for them and when it doesn't then it must be the car or more likely the battery at fault so go to the possibly unnecessary expense of changing the battery well before its time. Normally you shouldn't need to charge the battery, I can think of only once in my 45 years of owning and driving cars that I've needed to recharge a battery using a battery charger on a car that I've owned and that was my fault for flattening the battery by doing something wrong but I'm an old person and understand the importance of the car battery and had cars that would now be old and very old (vintage!) the more modern and latest cars have so much more reliance on the battery and charging system You are taking a very narrow view on this. Other reports on here and elsewhere and with the breakdowns services (and possibly you and your vehicle) prove otherwise - facts (plural). 😉

And it was the thread I saw just before this one! Oh dear, my dear, good job you're 'ere. It didn't gauge in my razor sharp computer like brain as the title was slightly different, must have been that last update in 1982 that messed things up.

I don't have one so don't know, but the likes of varooom and others would know though, I thought even with the cheap use-your-own- "smart"-phone programs like VCDS you could do 'adaptions'(?), data input to me, so that you could change the battery data to tell the computer. OBDeleven I thought was about £100 so not an unreasonable price if you have a "smart" phone but I think even the free VCDS stuff does a (very) lot, don't know about battery coding though. The better scan tools rather than those that are just error code readers can give you lots of information and you don't have to fiddle about with the computer programs' innards unless you need to or want to. If I remembered correctly and they were EFB batteries I don't think it'd be a fluke if lasted more than 8 years more a case of users use and lack of abuse, or perhaps I remembered wrong or perhaps the vehicles weren't start/stop or start/stop wasn't used, though both would come under use of the battery. I've been told of 1950s cars running AGM batteries on alternators and dynamos, I can only take the word though as I've not seen them with my own eyes but I have no reason to doubt the person given their use of the vehicles.

Splin's not been to this site since October 2019, with only 3 post in the 15 days before that it is doubtful they look at the site now, so as suggested best to start a fresh thread of your own giving as much detail as possible and bear in mind no information from here will be on your thread, at least not initially.

Thanks. I should have added my car did sit lower so the mudflaps were lower and at one time had the wrong lower front road springs on, whether this was at that time I can't remember now.

In that case are you sure it doesn't already have the facility to change the battery details, my wife's was done by someone on here with an OBDEleven off one of these "smart" phones. Yes so do I, what made you think otherwise. Graham was you a union rep or something, or worst still a foreman or manager. 😜

Another way to squint at it. - 235/40 R19 - Revolutions per mile = 764 245/35 R20 - Revolutions per mile = 754 255/30 R20 - Revolutions per mile = 775 Info from - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

I used to put I was a pedent and that would keep the Spelling and Grammar Police, pedants and the offended happy - you can have that to use, I'm always willing to serve. 😁 ETA: yes I keep thinking of a bumper when the American say or put fender - but remember bumper cars are/were actually supposed to be dodge-'ems.

Off the car gives more commitment from the user so probably not a quickie, wam-bang-thank-you mam but a more considered effort, introduces the idea of patience too when everything is expected immediately so shortcuts are made and battery charged but not fully (bit of psychology) also gives a more controlled environment, Denmark can get cold. Quick modern fast chargers of high current you'd be disconnecting the battery anyway and yes modern lower current charger they can be left on, it was probably around 20 years ago I had a modern charger that I left connected when I had a car that was under an outdoor carcover waiting for its less frequently use with a silly British made alarm and immobiliser, I wired in a quick connector directly to the battery, behind the passenger's footwell, as the car was well spec'd by its original owner and was without ciggy lighter, or ashtrays - still got that modern charger. 😁 As well as the older charger which does have a low buzz if you put your ear close, it was bought for me by my elderly neighbour as a present, it was the same as the one he had that I used on his car to stop him frying the battery as he had previously. I've used it on other neighbours' batteries but never on any of the cars I've owned - tell a lie, I did once when I'd flatten the battery trying to start the car as it had a fault (that I'd caused). You'd also need a long extension cable if you lived on the 4th floor, unless you got your electric from the council street lighting like my neighbours did when I was young, no coin meter for them, they kept emptying it. 🙂

You might find things have moved on a bit, or quite a bit more than you expect, even the free programs can do a lot, good bi-directional pro level tool are in the low hundreds. I don't know how much you can buy into with lower packages but I expect its quite a lot for not much money, others would know. The AGM battery on my wife's car should well outlast the car then, going on what I've read on this site IIRC EFB batteries (on lesser cars than yours of course) have lasted longer than 8 years, depends on the user's use and abuse. I can't agree with carrying jump leads or starter packs as I prefer prevention and was from "classic" cars where some felt the need to carry so many spare parts they practically needed to tow of trailer for them. If you don't want to charge the battery, either on or better still off the car then the case is closed until you decide you need to replace the battery again, look for a drain or fault, or reduce your electric use at times, cheers. 😁

All databases have errors, best to check and cross reference any information you get. Some databases wouldn't accept my (now previous) 1973 car's registration, others would. I expect your car is fully loaded with necessary extras on top of the necessary standard extras and necessary standard standard modern essential electric items, must need bigger engine to keep them all running. I must salute you if you get 8 years out of the battery - or possibly not, perhaps I 'd remove some of the fuses on the more wasteful items. 😉 Get yourself a scan tool (with battery coding if you want) and you can then investigate and sort issues for yourself without a garage firing off a parts cannon or guessing at your expense. You'd soon learn all that you want to about and with the scan tool.

Oh, OK, fairy snuff. Ah, yes, sorry I forgot, I'm old, and I'm no good at English let alone American, no wonder the spellcheck can't understand my speelings. I was trying to lighten things a little, but I've probably heated you up more, another fail. 🙁

😁 Not so I'm afraid, what we called the wing those over the pond call a fender, the wheel arch is part of the wing - we'll that's how it is with old folk like myself.

A full service would mean different things to different people/garages. As most servicing, maintenance and even some repairs boils down cleaning and lubrication or simply swapping out parts you could learn to do some of the work (or all) of the work yourself to perhaps save a little money but also to ensure the work is done and at least in a conscience way and manner - though I would not blame you if you wanted to avoid the mess and hassle. Remember as I put before the important and priority parts are brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres, safety electrics, lights, wipers, blower, horn, etc. - so check those check what's has recently been done on those and do your own visual checks and tests too. For the engine the same, you may also want to consider clean the MAF and throttle body after you'd checked engine air filter condition. Check on coolant (antifreeze) changes, air filter, spark plugs Have a look at the cabin filter too and any debris before it and a simple thorough clean with a vacuum cleaner and small brush to help clear out the internal air vents and around the switches and crevices can help stuff operate more freely. Cleaning and lubricating hinges (and locks if required) with appropriate materials will also help, as will cleaning and treating door seals before the cold weather - all easy stuff you can do yourself without getting too messy. Charging up the battery fully (off the car) could help prevent some electrical/computer issues this autumn and winter. Been so long since I've had a car new to me I struggle to remember what to check, so good luck.

I don't know about Graham's model but my wife's Mk3 Fabia and other Fabias and other models I've seen on here had EFB. As I understand it there's no such thing as really self-learning on these cars, bit like Tesla saying their cars are autopilot or whatever marketing phase they've dreamt up, a more computer savvy poster would know and explain better than me. AFAIK other than the bits owners use in the vehicle like "smart" phones the computer bits that the general car manufacturers use aren't exactly cutting edge. AFAIK if the same type of battery is used as a replacement of the same Ah (or perhaps near enough?) then the car's systems will adjust to the information with use of the car, in other words drive it enough and it will 'learn' the battery has changed in charge at least (otherwise it'd never respond to the existing fitted battery being charged off the car.

I don't think the central bore size is on the wheel. - https://www.oponeo.co.uk/blog/how-to-read-the-wheel-markings

Were those factory standard or modified cars?

It's annoying that VW can't made wheel bearings that last longer, again so much for German engineering 'quality'. I'm sure I can hear the bearings on my wife's 2015 car but they're not too bad so I turn a deaf ear and it's in for it's annual service and MoT soon with an independent garage (at I think higher cost than Dealership) so lets see what they find. I bet they don't pin down the annoying knock from underneath though.

Fair enough different cars different results. I notice in your photo the car appears to be sitting at correct/factory ride height whereas many cars particularly now may have very tired suspension and sit lower or they've been lowered on purpose. Here for decades we got next to no lying snow around where I live, however I remember going over a road near Ravenstonedale which had just been chipped and on the incline I could feel the effects of the drag as the chippings piled up behind the front wheels with mudflaps and we couldn't stop as the 'Caravan Club' had a washing line and dogs out.

Most owners T OT A L L Y underestimate the importance the condition and state of charge of the car's battery especially with modern cars and particularly German marques like VW with their over-complicated, intrusive intertwined computer programs.

That would be easy to locate with careful use of a mechanic's stethoscope. Bit annoying as my wife has the same year of model to think that fan didn't last more than 7 years before getting that noisy but perhaps it was just an odd duff one. In ancient times you would just disconnect the fan for a short time and if the noise went away that would be your evidence - but now with all the intertwined computer programs I have no idea if unplugging it might upset something else - plus do not touch anything if you want the dealer to replace it. Whilst at the dealer I would ask that the battery and alternator are also checked for their conditions, playing on the fan being worn, although not really related I would still use that as a lever if they are reluctant to test the battery and alternator as it's not difficult or timely to do, so why can't they do it to reassure you. Did you get any printouts of any history of the car from the dealer at sale, again this is not difficult to do for you and any reluctance to do it to me shows laziness at best and possible worse.