nta16

I don't know what part you are talking about but generally you can buy parts from other suppliers, eBay. "scrappies", Sometimes though for some parts it's less hassle and same sort of cost to go to the parts department of your local Dealership. For plastic parts s/h age wear and tear needs factoring in with parts that can be stress through use or misuse. The VW part numbers are usually on plastic parts so that a good thing to start searches with. The car's VIN is sometimes needed for some parts and part number can change or be superseded. You may be as well to look and/or ask at the threads in the Superb 2016 forum in case it's a commonly broken parts and more information readily to hand. - Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ HTH.

You may well already know this but in case not. there's lots of information and advice on Felicias in the 'Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/90-skoda-favorit-skoda-felicia-skoda-fun-and-skoda-forman/

Sorry, yes totally agree with this, I often think the tyres might be low in pressure by the look of the sidewalls but they're fine when checked with a reliable pressure gauge. Yes you'll probably remember a recent thread where overinflated tyres were the cause of TMPS warnings. Like other issues and warnings on the car a quick driver's maintenance check can sort them and often very easily, with little or no expense and hassle. Even better professionals can be chasing their tails and doing surplus checks and diagnosis after neglecting/forgetting to do first basic checks or failing to RTM.

Other Briskoda members who may be able to help you with at least a scan report for beer tokens normally but a few offer professional service so may operate different renumerations. - Good luck.

Thanks, but 0.5 bar is 7.25psi (according to Google) which is 24% of 30 psi, a 24% drop in tyre pressure which is substantial and will have an effect on the tyre and the car systems the tyre effects such as braking, steering and suspension. Admittedly the electronic aids on the car will deal with a certain amount of these effects but they can't overcome physics (something modern drivers should always be aware of and nothing think that cars have magic buttons and settings that can always sort everything for them). I have a feeling that the parameters for this (and other stuff) can be as wide as 25% which is why the human drivers and passengers can sometimes detect things before any error messages or warning lights and error codes. Someone with VCDS or other or the knowledge may know the actual margin before the TMPS warning is triggered on the Fabia Mk3 TMPS. My wife said she knew there was something wrong before the car gave a TMPS warning for the tyre going flat (decades of being a passenger and driving British "classic" cars have taught her about how a car feels and various noises from it, she's better at identifying the sounds than me but that's not saying a lot).

If the wheels and tyres and tyre pressure are about the same then I doubt you'll even get any TPMS warning but do check a;; the tyres pressure are correct (when 'cold') and reset as suggested already. Do not rely on the TPMS to tell you about your tyres pressures, always check with a reliable tyre pressure gauge, as the TMPS seems to have quite wide parameters in my wife's experience of getting a flat tyre.

The front dampers used by VWŠkoda and their Dealership for my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI (90) are very-poor from factory and as replacements, the factory ones only lasted 6 years and their Dealership replacements were "misting" within 11 months of less than average use (MoT advisory or potential fail). Sorry I forget the make but they are well known about in the trade, don't bother with them.

There is a thought that instead of all the safety equipment there were spikes sticking out from the centre of the steering wheel then drivers would drive more safely. For many years now modern drivers might be too cocooned in their modern cars with all the driver "aids" and "assists" making them too remote from the driving and feel of the vehicle plus the added distractions of the infotainment. Having functions and driver's jobs at the push of a button also removes the association and contact with various driving elements like the weather and its effects on the car and driving. The cost of the vehicle is about the market it is in, Americans would find UK prices to be high so it is relative but the principles of purchasing remain the same so I think all advice given remains relevant, I ignored the prices as I have little idea of UK pricing let alone in Demark (which I too expected to be higher but not that high). The newer cars will be fine whilst they are under warranty but I am sure not have the longevity of older models, buying these cars when they are older I think will be the issue many cars do not have the best computer systems (I would include VW in this) and cars now are more computers on four wheels than ever before, the expense of keeping these systems going will I think increase car running costs for all of us even if we don't have them.

More information - in English - is required and a different thread tittle would be best for getting answers. Which four buttons, what are these four buttons supposed to do? Which button momentarily turns the ignition and headlights on? It sounds like you might have a wiring or switch issue but that is only a guess. If you have difficulty with the words also put up a photo of the buttons.

Yes could be wiring, connections, switches or modules. If you have checked the battery and its connections then best to plug in a VW appropriate scan tool that is has a program for your model and year and that this program is fully up to date for your model and age, also its battery and that of the car do not want to be in lower states of charge to get accurate reports. The scan tool is just one diagnostics tool, there are others including your senses, though it sometimes can it doesn't always point you to what's at fault but in the directions to check.

I have no idea how things are in Demark but personally I would look for and consider older cars than 2012 (less on them to play up and go wrong, though the German marques have always liked to complicate things). Particular from previous older and elderly owners there are older low or very low mileage cars that have been well looked after or pampered with good or very good service histories and often very good cosmetic condition particularly if kept out of the sun. Personally I would not worry about minor cosmetics flaws.

Probably not but in my experience they require more frequent parts replacements and repairs than say Toyota and Honda so that adds to running costs and hassle of ownership I do not know if this is the same for the farther brand VW products of VW and Audi but I would also be very careful about a BMW and Mercedes from 2012-15 on given the experience of others I know. Obviously you and others may have different experiences and opinion of these marques, all adds to the overall for anyone to check, follow up or decide about.

As well as timely the servicing also needs to be thorough, especially as the car ages and cumulative milage, Dealerships, garages and mechanics generally in the UK at least are not always very thorough with servicing even a simple job like changing the engine oil (and filter). Servicing here basically boils down to engine oil and filter change and a look for other chargeable work, this is not even proper engine servicing let alone proper servicing of the whole car. Other items and work that used to be part of car servicing, VWŠkoda UK call "Maintenance". In Europe at least you did not have the VWŠkoda UK lie about the rubber cambelts needing changing at 5 years/50,000-miles but that is another thing to consider of you buy a car that is coming up to 15 years old (150(?), 000-miles). Timely "Maintenance" changes of spark plugs and engine air filter are also important for engine servicing. Full and proper timely engine servicing is particularly important for diesel engine and as a generalisation even less likely done. More important of course is servicing and maintenance of the braking, steering and suspension systems and components. On a car of this age personally if I was going to keep the car I would be looking at changing the "filled-for-life" fluids too (some others will disagree with this), caution with this though on those DSC gearboxes. In the UK as a generalisation you would not trust the advice of cars salesmen particularly used-car salesmen unless they were selling in a very specialist market. I have no idea if or how good the Denmark 100% Autocheck is but now in the UK generally "approved" and 180/ 200/300/wotever-point are not very good and can mean very little (even if they are actually done) only a full inspection check by something like The AA has any real reassurance (as much as it does, and can, give). This should cover the car's condition. A scruffy car can be in very good or excellent running condition and a very clean and shiny car can be in poor running condition, cosmetic appearance is often only skin deep. If there is any paperwork for the car including servicing, maintenance and repairs put it in reverse chronological order and look for what recent work should have been done and has been done and work required at the various mileage and age points. Often you find servicing and maintenance and repairs get less priority as the car ages when it is still required and often more required. Cross reference any information with any other collaborating paperwork. Some of this "paperwork" may be in virtual(?) digital form. Use your senses (eyes, ears, nose, touch) and brain common-sense when looking at and test driving a car and dealing with those selling the car and a digital camera is good to inspect things close up by zooming in, even on a so-called "smart" phone but looking on a larger monitor/TV screen later when you are not under sales pressure you can sometimes see more.

For lots of information about 2012-14 VWŠkoda Octavia real world ownership from those that own and run them then as I put you can look and/or perhaps ask in the model forum, 2012-14 covers two models Mk2 and Mk3, there are forums on here for each model and of course for Yeti and Fabia. Common issues and problems with the models and particular engines will be on those forums also the good points and fuel consummation (particularly from those that really find such things interesting or particularly important to them.

Hi, welcome. There will be a few members here with access to such information but you could also just ask at your local VWŠkoda Dealership's parts department and order it from them as often for these type of parts they can offer very reasonable price and availability - but - obviously you need to check they are referring to the correct part and you are happy with the price (check if including or excluding VAT) and the availability. Good luck.

Crosland?

Sorry to hear about your situation, and that of your mechanic mate. As I always say cars no matter what they are and are valued at cars are just lumps of metal but I'm glad your car issue is finally sorted and thank you for reporting this back. It very unusual to have a faulty oil filter (unless it's some sort of fake or junk make(?)). I can recommend the Mann engine oil filters as I fitted one to my wife's 2015 Fabia this summer and I had a good look at it before fitting it (the Tosch brand has never impressed me too much with car parts) AFAIK many brand names are made at the same factories but the standards and materials may vary, the Americans seem to love this subject but I believe they're generally(?) supplied by different factories than us.. Have a look at your 'Owner's Manual' for your car as to which light and it's colour is for what about the engine oil. If you haven't got your very handy paper printed copy you can download a free VWŠkoda pdf copy from the VWŠkoda site for them. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I hope you, and your mechanic mate, have better luck in the future, take care.

Thank you for accepting the wider information based on this being your first car, I understand this as I used to help those that were new to what some call "vintage" or "historic" cars but are generally called "classic" cars in the UK, meaning old and very old cars, mine from the 1960s and 1970s. Some of these "classics" were just the equivalent of a 2012-14 Octavia of their time (not the ones I owned). I also ran these old cars for 30+ years as my daily drivers for work, commuting (300 and 500 miles a week commuting at one times) holiday in the UK and parts of Europe and car club events and for the last 16 years of that I only had one 1973 car, so I have some experience of old cars and knowledge of cars that have very low mileage and use and miniscule annual mileage and use. To answer your questions, a lot already covered by Occy245 but some more added. It is not just the mileage, though the mileage points have already been given it is also about how the mileage was done and how the whole car has been looked after all its life. High milage is generally less straining on say the engine, gearbox, transmission perhaps brakes and suspension than low or very low mileage as the whole car is more exercised and fully warmed. Generally if you compare say a motorway journey to driving around a city or town there are less gear changes and braking, the car is kept at a more constant speed and use for longer. For the engine say the engine oil wants to be at an oil temperature of say 90c+ to be operating at its best and this is achieve at the start of the motorway journey and maintained throughout, unless there is a very long break in the journey and the engine oil gets fully cold again in which case obviously it has to fully warm again. And there are many other variables but hopefully you follow what I generally mean. Now if such a journey is made with a fully loaded vehicle, or over-loaded if you are foolish enough to do so, and say going up a mountain motorway and even towing as well then this of course adds additional load and perhaps strain to the vehicle and if the vehicle whole has been fully serviced, maintained and repaired then it might not operate as well as it could or should. Hence the need for full and proper servicing, maintenance and repair to at least a reasonable level for the vehicle to be in reasonable condition for such tasks. A low or very low mileage vehicle, particularly one that sits around unused frequently and/or does lots of short or very short journeys it can often be that the engine oil never or not often really gets warm enough to get to 90+c for any journey. Proportionately there is usually lots more braking and gear changes in such journeys (than say motorway or longer distance mileage). Things like tyres do not do well just sitting around and not being exercise, you usually find the tyres can be many years old with plenty of tread depth on them but the sidewalls are cracked and the tyres hard from lack of use and sitting around particularly if not garaged away from the elements. Those are just two examples to give you the ideal of what you asked about. High mileage as put depends on the condition of the milage and how well the car has been looked after, for mileage I've no idea of accurate average figures now but lets say very low annual mileage is below 3,000 miles a year and average mileage 8-12,000 miles a year, bearing in mind servicing is annually or at 10,000 miles, let's say high mileage is 20+,000 miles a year, others may have other figures. I don't know how many miles a 1.4 TSI engine is good for but all engines obviously last longer if they are fully serviced, maintained and repaired. Say just the engine oil, a better engine oil offers better protection and that level of protection lasts longer. It is not just the frequency of oil (and filter) changes but also the thoroughness. Some people just do a quick and cold change of oil which will level more old oil and any contaminants in diluting a bit the effects of the fresh new oil. The engine of course is just one part of the car and not the most important for driving the car. Most important are brakes, steering, suspension (all three include the tyres), lights and safety electrics (wipers, blower, horn, etc.), windows, mirrors, reflective number plates - see and be seen Low mileage bring up something that my troll J.R. is fiercely against me mentioning and that is state of battery charge. The state of battery charge has always been important on a car but it is more so with modern cars and more so again with a VW model particularly with start stop function. Generally it will not be an issue on a 2012-14 car as say a 2019 or 2023 cars but still an issue. If the battery in in too low a state of charge for the VW computers then you can get all sorts of unexpected issues and perhaps warning lights and messages (and unseen error codes) and this can be even if the headlights seem bright enough and the engine has no problem starting. In fact by the time the engine has problems starting the battery is in a very low state of charge. Short journeys often do not provide enough recharge for the battery from it use so that as an accumulative effect the battery has a shorter more troubled life. This can be avoided and the battery given longer better life by when require occasional preventative battery recharging using an appropriate battery charger maintainer and reading and following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger's instruction booklet. Generally the lower and slower the recharge the better, a 4-amp charger maintainer is a good practical size. You may already know the importance of battery charging living in a colder country. Another tip for your which car to buy is to get the 'Owner's Manual' for the cars being considered and have a look at them as they can tell you a lot about the car, driving it , servicing and maintenance. VW for some reason leave out some details other manufacturers put in there 'Owner's Manual'. Whatever car you buy you want the 'Owner's Manual' for it and to have read it and refer to it during your ownership. There are macho idiots that never look at the 'Owner's Manuals' many of them are tradesmen like mechanics and auto-electricians because they think they already know but often do not ( I have 40 years experience of this). The 'Owner's Manuals' are always at the very least a good starting piont but like all publications and databases they can contain errors and omissions and a 2012-14 will in some aspects be out of date, say VW's (German marques?) thing of giving their specification numbers to oils and coolants, things change and improve (or not) with time. Free VWŠkoda pdf downloads of the 'Owner's Manual' on this VWŠ site (and other manufacturers generally do the same to some extent). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models If you want I can point you to other posts I've put on Briskoda for first car owners or new drivers but though some might not see it I do not want to overload you with too much info but most of the points here and in my other posts generally apply to whichever car you buy be it VWŠkoda or not. Cheers.

I'd also add whilst checking the state of battery charge to check the battery positive and negative terminal clamp connections are clean and tight (don't move with reasonable hand pressure, not murder-tight).

Like all posters and readers the OP can read as much as they want and dismiss or ignore as much as they please. I'm with you on having a good reliable tyre pressure gauge but don't bother with carrying a spare wheel though I understand others may want or need to. If you can get the car and puncture to a KwikFit great but it's not always possible. I thought, don't know, an 'alignment tool' was/were part of a kit for Audis. Anyone that doesn't want or need one great, if they want/need two or more that's up to them, all can certainly survive life without them as they can any particular marque/badge of car, go with what floats yer boat. As for wheel studs the only problems I've ever had with them has when tyre fitting places ignoring what they've been told and just carrying on as normal tyre fitters or mechanics and overtighten with a rattle-gun and/or overtighten with a torque wrench. If I was a mechanic with a lift I'd probably not have such an issue with the bloody wheel bolts. Different people think differently, do things in different ways and have different experiences, all part of life's flora and fauna.

Action Can® (by CRC Industries). - https://www.actioncan.com/products/

Four is for if you rotate wheel positions. Some model of VW may be different to others but with my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 one 'alignment tool' has the wheel swinging, two is more stable so better as the wheel has to locate and sit on a whisper of centre hub flange. Relevant when considering a range of cars as others have the better and easier fixed wheel studs. My wife's Fabia is the first car I can ever remember encountering with this additional car hassle in the previous 40 years of driving.

15" or even 14" are more sensible size wheels and tyres but for decades fashion has dictated larger wheels with over-wide tyres with too narrow sidewall height (ratio). VWs also have silly wheel bolts instead of fixed wheel studs so if you ever need or what to take a wheel off get yourself a set of two (or four) of these "wheel alignment tools. -

Hi Max, welcome. For reliability and less frequent servicing, maintenance and repairs costs start at Toyota, or Honda perhaps, obvious you always buy on condition as there can be good and bad examples of any brand or model depending on previous owners. Take mpg figures as a generalisation on any car, particularly from the manufacturers, and different people will always get different mpg figures from exactly the same car, High mileage is often better than low or very low mileage in many areas but of course high mileage may show signs of wear in say things like seat(s), carpet, trim, switches perhaps (perhaps another reason for some better made Japanese cars). As you can tell I am unusual here as I do not particularly like the German marques including VW that has the Škoda brand now but the vast majority of other members that do like, or to enough extent, so lots of advice on this site for you. For your first car (and also later cars possibly) for at least the first year of ownership do not be tempted to spend money after purchase on cosmetics and changing anything that is not needed as part of servicing, maintenance and repairs. An appropriate battery charger maintainer would possibly be a good investment particularly with German marques start-stop cars. If you really want a 2012-14 VWŠkoda Octavia then you might be better looking at and/or perhaps asking in the model forum, 2012-14 covers two models Mk2 and Mk3 so here is the link to the area of Briskoda that cover both plus other Octavia forums. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-škoda-octavia/ Good luck.

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