nta16

ETA: the R might be for the 110R(?) Estelle so you could look at who still supplies parts for those cars.

Hi Alan, welcome. The guys that know will be along later.

If your 12v battery is the one from the factory still then the use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer, fully charging then maintaining the battery, following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual and charger maintainer's booklet will help prevent further issues as we go into the colder weather particularly if the car gets so little use. If you want to you can add more details to your nameplate thingy for those with PCs to see, mine is just an example.

@Lewz if the battery was only found to be "borderline" then it was probably not that bad and could be recovered but it might have still been in a low state of charge (as could a very recent new battery in use) but as you've replaced it, assuming the new battery was in a reasonable state of charge things should be OK with a bit of driving if the warnings were previously caused by low state of battery charge. As put if the new battery hasn't been 'coded' correctly that could cause issues - there as an auto-electrician reported on here as putting in the new battery as 7ah instead of 70ah, why the VW computer program allows this is another matter, anyone can make mistakes so always worth checking if required. First check to make, before checking 'coding' - has the battery been replaced properly, normally the battery terminal clamps are overtighten but I've had them loose from owners and a Dealership - so check the battery terminal clamps are both fully secure - a no-cost, quick and easy check anyone can do without any special tools or equipment. A loose live or earth can cause what you had, parked up fine driving on the road with vibrations and/or more electric power use highlights a loose connection. Report back from that for other thoughts, possible checks.

The TMPS system isn't the one that gets reports from inside the tyres showing pressures, it's wheel sensors so revolution counters, in with the abs.

I don't know the VCDS at all, can you interrogate it more and get it to a corner, or it might be at one of the modules. You might need a wiring diagram and see what wires and connections and other comes and goes from J104. Look that up. Does this mean the MIL light is also on? You may need to go to the VCDS forum to get a full interpretation of your read out but you can use other diagnostic tools like your eyes and hands and have a look at behind the wheels, if you're lucky it might just be muck/debris around, or connection(s) to a wheel sensor(s), or you might have check things out with a multimeter. Have you done anything different to your wheels or tyres or brakes or anything on the car just prior to this warning? Otherwise you could present the FULL scan report in the VCDS forum and see if anyone can spot any anomalies in it that may cause the computer programs to get their knickers in a twist or highlight the area to look at and test. On an aside, assuming accurate readings, 2.6 bar, is 38 psi in old money, is a bit higher than book running pressures, just above eco setting for 17" wheels, perhaps the heavy diesel engine suits a little more. From my wife's 2015, 1.2 TSI petrol, Mk3 Fabia. -

AFAIK you will not need to 'code' it and I think it should retain all its settings, same as when you disconnect or replace the car 12v battery, it's the old computer 'turnin' it off 'n' on agen', marvellous fings 'puters, so clever (actually as thick as, no intelligence no matter what the marketing says).

Yeap totally agree, Not sure about H1 but tha's the point I don't know (didn't even consider or know about it). Hopefully lingho is sorted now but typical non-forum response, or lack of, or has yet to get to resolve. Internet sites often have quick questions that what quick answers regardless whether enough information has been given or is possible. Quick answers often seem to be preferred to accurate answers such is the internet.

You can get sets of the proper tools and at low prices (no idea of quality) if you can work out what various suppliers call them but how many times after this do you expect to use them, there again it's 2019 VW wiring and connectors so perhaps if they're not expensive and even if they are you've saved on labour costs with having them but paperclips can be very plentiful (not sure about bobbypins). You can decides after Jame's instructions and advice. Paid professionals often have special tools for jobs as they often don't have two things available to a willing person doing doing the work for themselves and those are time and patience. With those you can often do some jobs better than the paid professionals.

That's the bit James can tell you about as he's previously offered, use of paperclip and bobbypin IIRC. .

A 2010 in many ways will be better than a later car so hold on to it. I've no idea about DSG box but others will have lots of info that box on a 2017 VW. 2017 your into looking after the 12v battery so as to not upset the VW computers and their programs a lot more than on a 2010, and more so still on later cars. Octavia is a bigger car so better for longer distance travelling fully loaded, diesel fine for this too - but it depends how often you do this and a TDI wont like lots of shorter journeys, more so than a petrol. My wife has a 2015, 1.2 TSI (5-speed manual) 90 of whatever they call them now, and that manages very well with one or two seats occupied very easily within the legal speed limits of the UK. You can notice when 4 seats are occupied compared to two and of course it depends on how big and heavy the four in the car are, but even with 4 and luggage it should manage fine but in a different way to your Mk2 1.6TDI. The Mk3 as my mate told me has the most cabin space in it's class (when my wife bought it in 2017) but how this compares with Octavia space I don't know, Octavia always look more old style saloon and estate lower and longer but that might not translate to much more (ETA: cabin space) or any more than the higher shorter MK3 Fabias. I've driven a 1.0 (3-cylinder) TSI, 110 whatevers, 6 speed manual, SEAT Arona and I found it to be fine but I've no idea about 4 with luggage over longer distances but sure it'd do it. The 4-cylinder VW engines are noisy to me so the 3-cylinder was more so but I'm used to much. much older and nosier engines (though much sweeter and smaller 3-cylinder engines than VW do). You probably know the differences in driving a diesel to petrol engine. Personally I ignore the manual gear selection suggestions as I know more about real world road driving that the VW computers do (well at the moment, but I'll decline and no doubt they'll progress, they certainly need to). You need to test drive as many good example of both the cars you're considering to see what suits you best, and of course there's lots of info on them in this forum. You really need to decide how often you're going on holiday and if it justifies getting a 2017 diesel (PDF) for rest of the year use or petrol and which car you feel comfortable in. You can always hire cars for different needs if they're only very occasional use of those needs. Then you could buy a 2005, or older, car for yourself and have plenty of money to hire big luxury car for occasional holiday use, or buy a 2005 or earlier version of those. Others will follow with more info and entirely different ideas to mine. Good luck.

@Martinsg I was just about to post the following before beaten to it, see also second quote if you've not already.

As I understand it the same car we get 3-years warranty for in the UK and Yogev gets 2 +1 years warranty in Australia they get 7 years warranty, same manufacturer same car and in Sweden they may only get, if I remember correctly, 3 years warranty they have lots of consumer protection on whatever they buy even second-hand (previously owned by another customer) cars. VW/VAG take advantage of the situation available in each market, as do other manufacturers in Israel it seems. (ETA: beaten to these points now) A slightly optimistic view has been given on VWŠkoda Dealership in the UK, yes they should have all the manufacturer's tools and training, to some extent at least, but not all Dealerships do good and proper work. Most of the main Dealerships, in England at least, regardless of what marque or brand of car they sell and service are actually owned by just a few companies though they may be subdivided for tax and marketing reasons and shown as different names so the culture tends to be very similar as it does generally in the motor industry and often that is low or very low regard for the car owners. The "free health check" is mainly an opportunity to sell, sometimes unnecessary or very premature, or totally speculative, items to bring in work, revenue and profit. There are some independent marque or brand specialist garages and mechanics that are very good and better than most (all?) of the official Dealerships and they have the tools, training and knowledge, some were former Dealership employees that got disillusioned by the Dealership attitudes, work practices and wages. Obviously some or all also wanted to start and run their own business. In my wife's 7.5 years ownership the car was taken to the local VWŠkoda Dealership, through its change of company (or company name at least) for all by two of the annual services (plus routine "maintenance work as VWŠKoda calls it) and we have had to ask them to carry out the scheduled "maintenance" work and even one element of scheduled service work, yet their "free health checks" and ticksheets have been inaccurate and some ludicrous and expensive work suggested that worried my wife. I think they may even take advantage of the fact my wife is a woman and not interested in the details of car servicing and maintenance and needs the car for her work occasionally. One annual service we took the car to an independent garage that a neighbour said had done good work on her (older) Mercedes but for us they were not much better than the local Dealership and the same cost, they did collect and return the car to our home though as part of the service as a courtesy vehicle was unavailable, my wife will not use the courtesy car from the local Dealership because of its restrictions, not that one was ever available when she used to originally ask. This year I done the engine oil and filter change myself along with a little other work so I was at least able to use better quality oil and know the engine oil change was done thoroughly, we then had a different independent garage do the MoT and brake fluid change as they do it the "old fashion way" I like and had the scan tool for ABS flush and they knew all about the parts quality on the VWŠkodas and assured me they use better. They were highly recommended by people we know, been going decades, and particularly the fact that they do not open on a Saturday or Sunday was a good sign to me. Sounds like the situation is Israel is different yet in many ways the same as here.

Yes I give you credit for that but there is a question mark at the end. Not for a 2021 AFAIK, and not in the annoying online version I looked at, and not in the paper (or pdf) "Operating Instructions" for my wife's 2015 car. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Hi, welcome. you might be better looking and /or asking in the Octavia Mk 2 forum. - Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ Quick thoughts, not for answering just thoughts, - did you clear the airbag light with a VW appropriate scan tool that has the facility and program for your model and age fully updated before use with both the scan tool and car batteries not in a low state of charge. Did you check all connectors for any signs of crud and corrosion and clean as required and also check all wires for corrosion and that the wires were all fully secured and protected (not chaffing) all the way back to their report and/or end points. Presumably you've check the button and clean and lubricated as require and checked connector(s) and it's wires all fully secured and protected (not chaffing) all the way back to its report/end point(s). Good luck.

3 connectors for the double filaments and common return, one filament for high other for low beam. Presumably P43t fixing. So OP's photo with two reflectors is H7 bulbs then. Why VW can't put that info in the Owner's Manual like other manufacturers is beyond me.

ETA; My wife has said about the Halford quilted windscreen cover she has "it's lovely, it's the best cover I've ever had" and she said it's no problem with rain and frost and has never stuck to the screen at all.

Storage certainly is a consideration, depends on how long the journey is and if it is to be used at the other end. With the one my wife uses, such as today at 7 am she took it off the car hanged it up in the bathroom. Never seen it stick to the windscreen as it is quitted and outer surface of a material that has water run of it but it still can hold some water/moisture in the pattern of the cover if nowhere else but this has never been a concern with her use of this cover. It's horses for courses. With part/top/hood covers many may wick through unless lined or of a material that may not allow this or not be durable. I expect you could spray them with the tent cover sort of stuff perhaps but that depends on the material they're made of.

Doors are let open for a minute when putting the Halfords cover on my wife's car whilst its put into position.

I'll have a look at that. It may be that the cover is too long from top to bottom for it to comfortably sit under the wiper but my wife has a sewing machine - but the cover and the car are hers so it's what she wants and when. ETA: for the scratches, I've not been into cleaning the whole car for years so not that bothered about minor scratches, they can go when the car does. I used to do two-day cleaning, removing wheels and seats but those days are long passed since then as long as the lights, windows and reflective number plates are clean the rest can wait (a very long time for the Fabia). We used to have our clubs stand near the AutoGlym and later Meguiars competition stands at the NEC so I've seen cars literally in bubble wrap and decades of other shows.

Amazon isn't the only 'retailer' in the world and not always the best prices. My wife was given a Halfords quilted windscreen cover for Xmas a couple of years back used a lot as we don't have a garage, it does the job very well and no need to put the windscreen wipers in "service" position as it covers them, held on by the front doors closing on to it and mirror mitts plus three magnets at bottom that hold the bottom edge on to the bonnet. Downsides, it's quite big and bulky but can be folded into its bag, normally we through it on the back seats or hang it in the bathroom to dry the outer side. The magnets are powerful and have put some minor scratches on the bonnet so I have thought about removing them and tucking the front edge under the bonnet but its quite windy where we live and I've yet to bother really looking into this. I've had top covers before and I think (don't know) you might need quite a bulky one to keep the frost off. Not related to frost but we also use a couple of Pingi dehumidifier bags as my wife's Fabia Mk3 gets an enormous amount of condensation on the inside of windscreen on occasions and it can be many minutes to clear the clear to is kept in the car to cause or add to this issue, never had such a problem with other cars.

H4 bulbs are double filament for high a dip beam usually (and as I discovered come in two different location fixings pt43 and pt45). H7 bulbs are IIRC a single filament. So, as I've just remembered you can see if the bulbs are H4 or H7 by looking at them, from in from of them, and changing from dip to high beam and see if the light from the bulbs change.

Is this the only warning light lit and message? IIRC the car should show you which wheel(s) the problems is at, Infotainment 'CAR' menu - or use a VW appropriate scan tool with a program on it for your model and age of car, make sure the program is fully up to date and the scan tool and car batteries aren't low in charge. There are member of Briskoda that can offer to do scan tool reports and more. It could be a fault at the sensor or it connection or wires or wires or connection(s) elsewhere, you need a scan tool or someone with a multimeter and bulb tester perhaps with the attitude to properly diagnosis, and check and cross-reference that diagnosis, then make a repair and check and cross-reference that repair resolves your issue. It might be something simpler but you need to know which corner(s) of the car the problem(s) is at to have a good physical look at it using a good quality torch or light. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

@john1952 the following is about why the engine may continue to run during operation of the start/stop system, it's from the 'Owner's Manual' of my wife's 2015 Mk3 but I can't think why all would not apply to your MK4 but other MK4 owners will let us know any discrepancies or changes. I've also found with the 2023 Ren-No! Cashcow that I have to press the brake pedal harder than I normally would to get the handbrake hold to operate but I've no idea about VW DSGs.

ETA: part two as I posted before I'd finished . . . by the small friendly back-street Škoda dealer we bought our cars from, this was before the VW corporation started changing them more to the model of the slick (in all it's good and bad senses) VW Dealerships. I also drive my neighbour's 2023 Ren-No! Nissan Cashcow at least once a week so have some experience of newer cars with their greater level of driver "aids" and "assists" with it's version of start/stop electronic handbrake with assist, thankfully to me it is at least a manual gearbox but the computer programs still rule. The other (2021) Cascow had the battery replaced under warranty (possibly as a recall/manufacturer's thing, I forget) my neighbour was told it was a battery fault (that's usually a scapegoat excuse as we know). Like all of us I have decades of experience of computers and computer programs and all their problems and the problems they create, my wife get phone calls about their issues and often has to return to work to help sort out the messes they make. My mate was the top manager of the computer programming part of a large national company that dealt with computer programming project costing millions, he knew not much about computers but was a good manager of people and programmers can be special sorts of people, I've meet them in other jobs I've done too, even know someone that used to be in the military and worked at GCHQ. 😉 But as my signature(?) has it and I for a while started my posts I'm not an expert in anything and don't have any experience of a Fabia Mk4.