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Found 590 results

  1. RE-POSTED BECAUSE HAD WRONG FORUM Hey everyone, been a while since I had to use briskoda but my truck seems to dislike winter as have issue with my pickup engine that iv half sorted I think but as usual any help is appreciated, noticed lately on damp mornings the engine runs tad rough , well more so than the usual Felicia rattle lol and hesitates slightly for second when throttle applied but two days ago lost completely any top end power and slight judder from engine when pulling away? Now it's always been on list to replace the battered original HT leads so did it yesterday and it's back to normal.....kinda. Idle is better but can hear slight hissing and if I accelerate in lower gears I can hear slightly different tone from under the bonnet. More throaty sort of sound , can only describe it as sounds similar to a car running with no air box? Just kind of worried about possible vacuum leaks as mines the 1.3 engine with a carburettor. I'm off out in it shortly so I'll post anything new an any one had experience with anything carb related I'd appreciate picking your brains lol cheers
  2. Hi, I own a 1989 Skoda Favorit 1.3 with a Pierburg 2e3, probably the oldest still known to exist in Holland. The carburettor is being a pain in the you know where/what since the beginning. I can not seem to pin down the problem Issues: - When I start the car, it immediately starts to gallop (going up and down in revs.). - Driving away:When I press the accelerator paddle lightly, the car bucks and disagrees with me. As soon as the I press down the pedal to full, it goes like the Flash. When I have to slow down (release throttle paddle) in approach of a traffic light or in slow traffic it starts bucking again in low revs. Recently it died with the clutch pressed down, because it was that low on revs. I had to adjust the idle screw to keep it running, although it's still rough - It runs very rich in idle, even with the mixture screw set low Checked/Replaced - Vacuum leaks around the mounting flange (none) - replaced faulty vacuum hoses, mounting flange, distributor cap and rotor, HT leads, spark plugs, air filter (some parts were worn). - The timing is correct (checked with stroboscope) - The valve play is correct. - Choke works like a charm, - vacuum operated actuators retain vacuum - part load enrichment valve is operating free Does anyone recognize these symptoms? Or did i miss something or is it i the electrical part?? Could there be an internal blockage that causes the overfuelling/bucking in idle?? I'd appreciate your thoughts with regards, Paul, Holland
  3. Hello I'm new here, just picked up a new VRS TDI Hatch. Can't work out the Infotainment thing and I've kerbed an alloy after 48 hours, but hey, these things are sent to try us.
  4. Hello people, This is my first post here. I own a 2007 Škoda Fabia Elegance, 1.4 16v, it's the BBZ engine (101 bhp). I have an expensive and annoying problem with it. It's just consuming petrol as if it were dumping it down the drain. This week I topped the tank. Drove it until the reserve light came on. 10.014 gallons. And I only managed to get 140.8 kms (roughly 87.5 miles) out of it. That's about 14 km per gallon (US) or 27 l/100 km. That's absurdly high. Apart from the high fuel consumption I have no symptoms of an issue. I suspect a broken coolant temperature sensor is the culprit. Do you guys have some input on what may be wrong with my vehicle? Thanks in advance.
  5. Any ideas whether this is normal? Power steering not working, and with car jacked up, unpleasant squishy liquid noise when turning wheels manually from lock to lock. Could this indicate the problem? No power steering warning lights on dashboard and fluid level ok.
  6. 1.2 TSI Oil consumption

    I was looking for a topic specific to this engine, but did not find one, so I decided to open one, since i have a question to ask. My Fabia 2017 (1.2 TSI 90 - CJZC) , got delivered in June. I am running ~11400km at the moment (~7100 miles), and I had to top up with 2dl (0.2l) of oil (Castrol EDGE FST 5w-30) . Now to me that is somewhat surprising, since I was expecting a bit more consumption, especially in the first 15.000km, and since the oil in the car is 30 grade at operating temperature. I previously owned a 1.2 16v clio (2003), so oil consumption was an everyday thing for me. I do regular checks, due to my Renault experience, and was surprised and amazed that I could go full service interval without a top up, especially given all the stories I have heard about TSI engines and oil consumption. Because 0,2-0,3dl is not really much, and the engine would be OK even if one would forget to do any check at all in between service intervals. I also did quite a few WOT pulls while doing data logging on flat terrain and slight uphill. So i guess I might have lost 1dl there, under more "extreme" conditions, compared to everyday driving. I do my checks strictly at operating temperature, once or twice per month. Usually 5-10 minutes max. after getting home from work (a 30 minute drive usually). My question is for all the owners of 1.2 TSI engines, old or new, all engine codes: What is/was your oil consumption on average, or how often (and by how much) did you do an oil top-up in between service intervals? And did the oil consumption increase by much after a certain mileage (20k, 40k, 80k,...) and by how much? Of course i am not looking for exact specific numbers, just some approximate ideas. And I am asking for all engine codes, to get an idea if the new ones consume more/less oil than the older models on average. Regards.
  7. Volkswagen Group company, Skoda Auto registered a sales growth of 30 percent, compared to the previous year, selling 17,438 units in 2017, driven by the latest launch, the Kodiaq SUV, along with the launch of refreshed versions of its popular sedans launched in 2017. In India, the Skoda’s portfolio comprises of the recently introduced Rapid, Octavia, Superb and the recently introduced Kodiaq. Source: Skoda Auto registered a sales growth of 30 percent, compared to the previous year
  8. Sub-zero photos

    Hello All! A belated Merry Christmas to everyone East Anglia, along with many other places has seen their fair share of ice and snow in recent weeks, and wondered if there was anyone else who had captured the effects of the below freezing temperatures on their trusty Skoda? Here's some of mine to kick things off..... Happy New Year to all you good folks! Y.A.
  9. Hi all, First of all sorry for the lack of photos and light and clarity in them. It has been well documented about the Canton subwoofer upgrade and the disappointment it has had on most Octavia owners, as I’m no different I decided to do something about mine. As I have been an audio installer for over a decade I thought I’d share some information about my install and the Canton audio system on our Skoda's About the Canton System: The canton system is a 10 speaker stereo system powered by an 11 channel 570W amplifier (the subwoofer uses 2 channels), the factory subwoofer claims to be 200w with a frequency response of 50HZ to 120 HZ (that’s approximate and purely from listening, don’t quote me on that) it’s also a 6” woofer so my doubt is it can’t get close to 50HZ. The factory amp is located under the left seat (I’m Australian so it’s my passengers side) under the plastic cover When the factory audio system reaches ¾ volume it attenuates the bass to avoid overdriving the subwoofer causing damage. (Skoda don’t want to be replacing subwoofers under warranty), I believe on the later ones this has been removed as I have driven the newer Octavia’s and at low mileage the subwoofers all sounded blown (I believe this is because clients have turned the subwoofer level and the bass level to +9, and turned the Canton EQ to Rock, this leads to overdriving the subwoofer causing it to prematurely fail, (I’m not sure if this is covered under warranty). Remember it’s like any stereo system it needs a good 100 hours of wear in time. What did I want out of this? Like most Skoda owners I wanted more bass, it has also been well documented that “cabin Boom” is common in the Octavias too, at the same time I also wanted to reduce cabin road noise and make it quieter like its more expensive brother the Audi A4. Australian roads are not as good as the Europeans (this is why I went through a pair of continental tyres in less than 10,000 kms) and at $300 a tyre I decided to go for something harder wearing which of course has made the road noise so much worse due to the harder rubber. I also wanted to keep the car as factory as possible I didn’t spend a stack of cash on a car to then plonk a subwoofer next to a factory subwoofer, I also wanted a subwoofer upgrade that didn’t take up any boot space (I know we have the biggest boot in our class of car but I use almost every inch of it) What Equipment did I use? Skoda Octavia 3 Custom Subwoofer box (surprisingly these can be purchased off the shelf from www.basser.pl) http://sklep.basser.pl/en/fit-box-enclosure/501-skoda-octavia-3-fit-box-subwoofer-enclosure.html it cost me just under 600 Zlotty delivered to Australia (approx. $200.00 AUD) it took 5 days to get here too!. JL Audio A2150 2 Channel amplifier (150W RMS bridged), I know what you are thinking its 50W less than the original, I kept in mind that I have no intention to change the speakers and tweeters, I like the sound the speakers output and I love the soundstage the system provides, I didn’t want to come out of this having a subwoofer that was drowning out the mids and highs, it’s not what I’m about, I just wanted depth to the bass that the original woofer can’t provide. JL Audio 10 “ Subwoofer 10w0v3-4, perfectly matched to the amp as it wants 150W RMS and only requires 18 litres of space to work (the box is 15 litres but I used Dacron to give the subwoofer the illusion it is in a bigger box) JL audio Matching subwoofer grill Stinger Australia 8-gauge amp wiring kit Stinger Australia “Roadkill” Sound deadener (36 Square Feet) 0.5 Watt Resistors (you will need them see below) Close braided wrap (to make exposed cable look original) Audio control LC2i Line out converter, I used this one as I find it the best for high end audio upgrades it also accepts up to 400W RMS and has Accubass (this stops the bass rolling off at high volumes, which is why I’m doing the upgrade to begin with) it outputs 8 Volts through its pre-outs, signal sensing turn on (so you can still use the subwoofer with the car off and has a remote output (for the amp) (Amp and LC2i not pictured they were still on their way) Where to start: Skoda uses Torx Screws (my advice is investing in a set of small to large Torx bits), they will come in handy when working on the car I started with the sound deadening, this involved stripping out pretty much everything from the rear seats back, stripping out the car isn’t as difficult as some think (remember I’ve done this for a long time so I know what I’m doing), my advice is to be careful when pulling things apart things will only come off one way, also take note as to what order things come apart so you know what order they will go back on, check the back of each panel removed to ensure that clips aren’t broken or damaged making it harder to put back on later. To sound deaden the rear end properly I removed the whole back seat, the bottom is fairly easy as it unclips and with a bit of jiggling it comes out, the top looks harder than it is. Between the 40/60 split is a plastic trim cover, this unclips and under it is a Torx screw which holds a metal clasp on, removing this will allow easy removal if the back seats, to totally remove the 60 split you will need to unbolt the centre belt from the floor pan. (re-fitment is done in reverse, that plastic cover is a pain to get back on) Removing the back seat gives easy access to being able to remove the boot lining for sound deadening, you will also need to remove the cream c pillar covers and the suspension tower covers (that hold the parcel tray in) there’s a clip that is extremely stiff a lot force was needed to get it off (there is also a Torx screw in there too), once the left side liner is off you will find the 2 bolts holding the factory canton subwoofer enclosure in, unplug the speaker terminals from the subwoofer. The boot lights and power socket will need to be unplugged as well, they are fairly straight forward. I used pretty much all 9 sheets of sound deadening for the boot, I didn’t go overboard with it as I don’t think it’s needed, I also didn’t want to kill my cars fuel economy. I also did the boot lid. I put my amplifier under the right side of the front seat (Drivers side), I chose my amp because the dimensions fitted the space underneath the seat. Wiring in the Amplifier, I Started by disconnecting the battery (I usually don’t however the grommet through the firewall is behind the battery next to the ABS module), its easily accessible when the battery is removed. Under the main loom is a blank grommet I put my power cable through, it could easily take a 4 gauge however my amp only needed 8 gauge. I covered my power cable in the closed braided wrap so it looked factory. I Fitted my amp fuse in the factory engine bay fuse box, this added to the factory finish, it was a little bit of a faff but it looks better then it bolted to the outside Wiring the LC2i: I Put my LC2i in the left rear quarter panel (above the suspension tower), this makes perfect sense as here I can utilize the original subwoofer leads, and the LC2i needs constant power which I got from the power socket wiring. ( I didn’t refit the light or the power socket as I don’t have a need for them, the shopping hook also got culled too) From the Canton subwoofer you will have 4 wires White/ Red + White/Brown - Grey/Red + Grey/Brown - From experience and working on German cars Brown is usually ground. NOTE: over each speaker – and + you will need to put a 0.5W resistor the reason is, when the canton subwoofer is plugged in the amplifier sees a load, when the subwoofer is unplugged the amp doesn’t see any load and shuts down the subwoofer channel putting the resistors on the leads creates a dummy load so the subwoofer channels are still active (and you can use the subwoofer level control in the head unit. From here All I then need to do I run my remote cable, RCA’s and subwoofer wire to the amp. Fitting the subwoofer: This doesn’t take a degree to do but a little common sense, Once the boot lining was in I offered up the subwoofer box and screwed it in to the floor (be careful as the muffler mount is under there and I missed mine by a bee’s ****), after that’s bolted in the subwoofer can be fitted to the box, again be careful as the last thing you want to do is put a hole in the cone) Connecting the Amplifier: Connecting the amplifier is as normal, I Close braided all of my wiring to complete my factory look, To mount my amp and run my cable to under the seat, I unbolted my driver’s seat, be careful of the original wiring (as airbag wiring is in there), removing the kick trims isn’t rocket science however I managed to tuck the wiring in without lifting them (I have it down to a science), I screwed my amp into the carpet but not through the steel floor (I didn’t want to hit something under the chassis and cause damage like brake lines) The Home stretch: Once everything is connected its time to turn on and test There are specific videos on You Tube showing you how to tune the LC2i (including the Accubass feature) From my experience I found it best to Lower the bass to -3 Turn the subwoofer level to +5 ( I don’t go any higher myself) (both of these settings are in the head unit) Keep the gain on the LC2i high and lower the gain on the amp I don’t use any bass boost settings on the amp as it only ever boosts 1 frequency I have my crossover level at 100HZ (but each to their own. Use good judgement, with your own equipment. And what sounds good to you. Re-fit your interior and enjoy the better bass. Any questions im happy to answer.
  10. Hi does anyone know if audi a1 rotors will fit my mk1 fabia vrs? I know the stud pattern is 5x100 on the rotors but my concern is that the rotors might be too big! I was told not to go more then 17 inch because apparently they start rubbing on the arches but the rotors are 18 inch. Any help would be appreciated.
  11. Skoda is planning to recall the 2009-10 produced premium sedans, Skoda Laura to India. It has issued a recall for the small fraction of the model, which comprise of 663 units. Under the recall, the sedan receives a software update for the ABS/ESC control unit of the braking system to provide safer riding experience for the rider. Skoda Auto India has introduced the second-generation of the Skoda Octavia as the Skoda Laura in 2005, which received a major update in 2009 and was discontinued in 2013 in the Indian market. Now, with the software update, it is going to make a comeback in the country. Under the service action alerts, the said update has been first showcased at the Skoda India’s website and now Skoda has also informed that it will conduct service campaign for the software update in the Laura range models. The affected products were manufactured between September 5 to November 19 in 2017. Source: Autoportal
  12. The 1st August marked 3 years since I bought my vRS and I think it's time I started a project thread, especially since I've made some major changes over the weekend. So let's begin... So, on 1st August 2010 I bought my Octavia off a colleague (who was previously a member of Briskoda), which at the time looked like this: Since then I've done the following: - Viper induction kit - Sprayed Front grille black - Sprayed inner headlight surround black - Refurbed alloys in Ford Graphite Grey (with white / luminous yellow trims) - Painted brake calipers luminous yellow - Colour coded bump strips - Added wind deflectors all round - Removed standard stereo and 6x CD interchanger and replaced with Sony system It has spent most of the time looking like this: So, to the present day: I recently discovered that it was rusting A LOT in several different places and drastic action was required to prevent it from rotting away completely. I would have loved to get the car fully re-sprayed and restored, but with prices of £1000+ I simply can't afford that and I've decided that there's only one option to keep it alive. I have always loved "The Punisher" and the 2004 film (Thomas Jane) Pontiac GTO... a car that I could only ever dream of owning. So I've decided to turn my Octy into an "British version" of the film car. I will put updates in the next post. Thanks for looking - T Keywords: Mad Max Skoda Octavia vRS interceptor matte black police car teeth punisher
  13. Custom vrs spoiler

    I am new to this forum but joined due to starting to give my mk1 Fabia vrs the love and attention it needs after be the shop car for a couple months. This is one project I really have been waiting to do it’s a custom spoiler for under the rear window. I am not 100% sure how it will look but hoping it look good not tacky. Started with a spare spoiler from a Audi a2 so still vag
  14. Hi from Australia

    Hi to all on this informative forum. I'm Ash from Queensland, Australia currently holidaying at the Gold Coast. I've been eyeing an Octavia for a few weeks now as I started to 'outgrow' my 2006 Nissan Tiida. Problem was I found very few small car varieties that could give me the rear passenger leg room as well as the boot space needed for what I work with. Mazda 6 was the closest contender, but I was looking for a more fuel economical variety, without losing too much performance. Passing by a Brisbane Škoda dealer on the way to the God Coast was fruitful in finding a run-out MY 17 model Octavia RS without the bells and whistles of the higher end RS models, and I was content with that. I applaud Škoda for forging their way into the middle-sized/small family car scene with such great options. I even took a look at the Superb and was impressed by its versatility. But I prefer the smaller more nimble cars, and the Octavia RS looks to be a reasonable performer in a small (yet roomy) package. Thanks for having me on board.
  15. A new Octavia VRS Mk1

    I managed to pick this up from CuthbertBear on Saturday, it was great to meet you James and your car is a credit to your ownership. I completed almost 300 miles that day running around and it ran spotlessly, effortless and so unbelievably quiet compared to my Fabia. My current plan is to use it as a daily and improve upon what has already been accomplished already. No seriously significant performance mods are planned just to make the car as driver capable as possible within a small budget. Should be a lot of fun and will try to update things as I go along. So as she stands now: · engine (168K miles all driven by me, previous owner, bar the delivery!), Bailey dump-valve to protect turbo, high-pass permanent air-filter, Stage 1 custom remap from Jabbasport giving 232.9 bhp and 321.2Nm torque (see graphs attached) · gearbox (standard 5-speed), · clutch (vr6 single-plate replacement), · suspension (poly-bushed front), · shock absorbers – replaced recently all round · brakes: standard fit with heavy-duty pads · exhaust: milltek S/S front to back · Battery: Yuasa heavy-duty replacement is <1 year old · Current MOT expires 17-Jan-2018 Cruise Control, Electric Tilt/Slide Sunroof and Parking Sensors are Factory Fit Originals MOT Cert.tiff
  16. Hello, so everybody knows that the types without maxidot is not showing the range or the averge consumption. Is any way to enable the option without maxidot ?
  17. Rear Bumper (RED)

    After a rear bumper in red for my Monte Carlo mk2. Must be free from impact damage and major scuffing.
  18. Skoda Fabia Spoiler Removal

    Just a quick question. I'm in need of a new bumper for my Monte and want to know if I can simply strip the rear spoiler from below the bumper off and attach to the new bumper?
  19. Hello, after doing some reading on the forum I noticed it suggested that timing chains should be changed every four years or every 140,000 miles. I contacted a few garages for quotes including Mitchell's Skoda who advised the chain is for life and doesn't need replacing, I am now very confused. Does the chain need replacing have i read wrong? The car is a MK2 Octavia 1.8TSI with the 7sd auto box. Many thanks in advance
  20. Hi guys, This is my first post here, so be gentle. Just found this forum while searching for something about about my Felicia 1.9d LX... This car was bought by my father, in 1999, directly from a shop, here in Sarajevo, as soon as the car launched. He was a taxi driver, so he took good care of her, and took her to a mechanic every 2 weeks. Since he died, car isn't very much treated as she was before. Anyways, we had a lot of problems with her, probably spent like 500€ since January 2016, just on mechanic trips. She had a faulty BOSCH Pump, twice fixed. Lately we're expirienced some problems with temperature and gas gauge, they both stop working for some time (gas gauge goes to 0 and gas light lights up, like the tank is empty) than after some time, it starts working again. 90% of mechanics we went to said that the engine is soon to be dead, there isn't much to do to her. My brother, mother and me are very attached to the car, so we don't want to sell her, so we're thinking about getting a different engine, a newer one. Is it possible to fit a 1.9 TDI engine, from something like Golf MK 4, and what else would we require to purchase and swap ? We wouldn't do it ourselves, but by our mechanic, because we know nothing about cars, other than driving them... Thanks in advance everyone, and cheers from Sarajevo
  21. I tried to present my car in fun and different way. I'm an owner of this car for almost 2 years and is never in 100% working condition, but still is my daily driver.
  22. Hi These are coming off a new superb, they wont be used at all as swap is happening in the dealer. So I will have the set of 4 with no tires. They are 293 each on the side below, so I assume same price at dealers. So set of 4 is 1170 euro. Make me a sensible offer, they haven't been touched so a great buy. So pricing the set at 1000 euro. Thanks
  23. Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo

    Afternoon all. Details below of my Skoda fabia for sale. Sad to part with it, although company car forces me to get rid of it. I really like the car, its great on fuel (60mpg easy) and has a smooth engine that is great on the motorway and looks great when cleaned up too. Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo 2014 - First Registered May 2014. HPI Clear. Meteor Grey with black roof Interior is also black and grey with black roof lining. It looks really nice. Whole car matches which is why I bought it. 1.6tdi CR 105bhp 35.3k miles Upgraded headlights - nightbreaker - and tinted rear lights. I have a skoda grey touch up stick that it comes with also. MOT due 25/04/2018 and Tax of £20 at the same time. Based in Rhoose, Vale of Glamorgan - 15 mins outside Cardiff. £7200 ono. Tel: 07590645935 Many thanks Ash
  24. Skoda Fabia 1.9 TDI ATD

    Hi guys, I've recently bought a 1.9 TDI ATD Skoda Fabia, 2004. The thing is that I like to understand properly everything that I have and I love to do things myself, but unfortunately, there was no one in my childhood to teach me about the cars (and I was not that interested, to be honest). What are the tips and advice for maintaining a 1.9 TDI engine, I know people usually say that TDI is a good engine? And maintaining a Skoda Fabia, it already is kind of rusty, especially at the doors handles and has some little issues here and there, that I will try to fix as time passes. Also, does anyway have seen somewhere a kind of easy guide of understanding the parts in the engine, like where is what, I was looking at this website https://cars-info.eu , that is amazing, but it is a little complicated, maybe there was someone at some point that had a video or photos explaining the TDI engine, for newbies. Cheers!
  25. Hi! So. Lets start from the begining. I purchased a Skoda Octavia RS ( TFSI 2.0 ), year model 2006. Owned it for about 2-3 months and now a big issue has appeared. In the start I had Low Oil pressure warning. Soo.. I did an oil change since the workshop said that it could be bad oil and alot of dirt. Soo.. Time passes and and after around 2000 km - The oil is empty. The warning "Low Oil Pressure" came again. Soo Naturally i did oil level test.. And literally, it was dry. Is it possible for the car to drink so much oil? The probable cause I have gotten is bad piston rings. So im reaching out on the forum if anyone have had any issue as the same or could help me troubleshoot what makes it drink so much oil. Currently i have filled with once again and is measuring and doing regular checks on the oil level to see if it goes down, Now im 100km in and its still full. Thanks in advanced (And sorry for bad spelling / grammar - Swede here! ) Edit: The car is at 184184 km.