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Octavia 1 - Replacing Door Latch Microswitch


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glad you got it sorted...

next challenge...

get it down to an hr:>

Well funny you should say that as my friend has the same problem on his leon and wants me to help him now he knows I've done mine lol.

Didn't really want to do it at all let alone twice but I reckon it'll be easier barring the extra bolts for his metal membrane on his door.

Think an hour would be pushing it though lol :)

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Thanks for the advice, went at it again this morning when I got to my friends unit and start to finish with a few errors along the way got it done in just under 2 hours.

Door card was just tight in the groove and wasn't giving it enough force as it turned out.

The worst bit was the main loom plug onto the lock mech as I have never tackled the multiplies on the vag group so where I was trying to press the clip in and pulling I was actually making it tighter to separate than normal. Didn't realise you had to pull tab outwards slightly to get it to release. 25 mins of tugging, pulling and twisting and my mate came over with his screwdriver and said 2 seconds and ping was off!

The white grommet is now located back in its rightful place too which was over the silver locating lug on the centre screw on the 3 main screws behind the main handle so that's all back together nice and tight too.

Top guide gents and thanks for the advice as would've been a longer time faffing without it all :D

Yeah..

Got there in the end buddy.

Sent from my Samsung S3

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  • 1 month later...

Just a quick mega-thanks to bowders for the guide.

 

It was a great help in changing my window regulator (from a man that does wing mirrors). The window regulator cable had completely snapped, luckily while the window was up. The door would fail to unlock via the key fob (a minor inconvenience), but while doing the window regulator I cleaned up the main controller connector and sprayed it with drying compound (also used to loosen nuts), and it has improved greatly (works most of the time)

 

Thanks :-)

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Just a quick mega-thanks to bowders for the guide.

It was a great help in changing my window regulator (from a man that does wing mirrors). The window regulator cable had completely snapped, luckily while the window was up. The door would fail to unlock via the key fob (a minor inconvenience), but while doing the window regulator I cleaned up the main controller connector and sprayed it with drying compound (also used to loosen nuts), and it has improved greatly (works most of the time)

Thanks :-)

Thanks buddy

Glad it was helpful

Sent from my Samsung S3

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello

Special Offer! Start with 1 problem, Get 4 more FREE!

 

Background: 9 year old vRS Estate. A year ago, I had to replace the OSF window lifter mechanism (hence I know how to strip door etc). After fitting, all OK. Everything working normally i.e. central locking, red LED, interior lights went off after delay on closing, puddle light OK, electric mirror adjusted, warning buzzers worked, central locking reactivated if door not opened after unlocking etc. etc.

 

Just recently, started to get the much discussed intermittent OSF door (only) not unlocking from the key fob. For me it was just first time in the morning. Two or three tries on the key fob usually got it going. Worst case, used the key. Usually it was then OK the rest of the day. This was the ONLY issue. Everything else was working normally.

 

So, having a couple of hours free this morning, I thought I'd take a look and try to fix the problem. Oh dear ........ I now have non operational OSF central locking (from the key fob), the red LED is permanently off, the OS driver's door mirror will not adjust and the interior lights will not turn off on delay. However, on the good side, the puddle light still works, all the windows operate normally, the warning buzzers work. The central locking works on all other locks if you use the key.

 

This is what I did. Stripped the door down. (Worth mentioning here that there is very little evidence in the interior of the door panel of any water ingress. The drain holes are clear and in general everything looks pretty good in there). Removed the multi-pin connector from the window winder motor. Lo and behold, there was moisture and blue stuff, just like in the photos (but remember here that the new window mechanism has only been in the door for a year, so also a bit worrying). I released two nearby loom clips to get the plug "out in the open" and easier to work on. Anyway, a good clean up, test for corroded pins, moisture extraction, dry out etc. and then reassemble with added silicone sealants. I felt pretty good that I'd found exactly what I expected to find. Then, the test. Oh &*%"* ................ Anyway, I had to reassemble the door as I ran out of time today.

 

So, good fellow Briskodians. I'm thinking this is a loom problem rather than the micro switch because I've created more problems than I started with and the only thing I've done really is to jiggle a section of the loom around. Mixed signals though. The warning alert buzzers still work (micro switch OK?) but the interior light (delayed auto off) does not (micro switch u/s?). The red LED is off and CL does not respond to key fob. But what's with the OS electric door mirror not adjusting?

 

Well, it'll be at least a couple of weeks before I have time to get to grips with this again. It's tempting to say that I wish I'd left it alone but there's no doubt it would have gone from intermittent to permanent fairly soon anyway. Bloody annoying though

 

Any thoughts, insights, inspired guesses or advice welcomed.

Thanks.

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Hello

Special Offer! Start with 1 problem, Get 4 more FREE!

 

Background: 9 year old vRS Estate. A year ago, I had to replace the OSF window lifter mechanism (hence I know how to strip door etc). After fitting, all OK. Everything working normally i.e. central locking, red LED, interior lights went off after delay on closing, puddle light OK, electric mirror adjusted, warning buzzers worked, central locking reactivated if door not opened after unlocking etc. etc.

 

Just recently, started to get the much discussed intermittent OSF door (only) not unlocking from the key fob. For me it was just first time in the morning. Two or three tries on the key fob usually got it going. Worst case, used the key. Usually it was then OK the rest of the day. This was the ONLY issue. Everything else was working normally.

 

So, having a couple of hours free this morning, I thought I'd take a look and try to fix the problem. Oh dear ........ I now have non operational OSF central locking (from the key fob), the red LED is permanently off, the OS driver's door mirror will not adjust and the interior lights will not turn off on delay. However, on the good side, the puddle light still works, all the windows operate normally, the warning buzzers work. The central locking works on all other locks if you use the key.

 

This is what I did. Stripped the door down. (Worth mentioning here that there is very little evidence in the interior of the door panel of any water ingress. The drain holes are clear and in general everything looks pretty good in there). Removed the multi-pin connector from the window winder motor. Lo and behold, there was moisture and blue stuff, just like in the photos (but remember here that the new window mechanism has only been in the door for a year, so also a bit worrying). I released two nearby loom clips to get the plug "out in the open" and easier to work on. Anyway, a good clean up, test for corroded pins, moisture extraction, dry out etc. and then reassemble with added silicone sealants. I felt pretty good that I'd found exactly what I expected to find. Then, the test. Oh &*%"* ................ Anyway, I had to reassemble the door as I ran out of time today.

 

So, good fellow Briskodians. I'm thinking this is a loom problem rather than the micro switch because I've created more problems than I started with and the only thing I've done really is to jiggle a section of the loom around. Mixed signals though. The warning alert buzzers still work (micro switch OK?) but the interior light (delayed auto off) does not (micro switch u/s?). The red LED is off and CL does not respond to key fob. But what's with the OS electric door mirror not adjusting?

 

Well, it'll be at least a couple of weeks before I have time to get to grips with this again. It's tempting to say that I wish I'd left it alone but there's no doubt it would have gone from intermittent to permanent fairly soon anyway. Bloody annoying though

 

Any thoughts, insights, inspired guesses or advice welcomed.

Thanks.

 

Don't you just love these over complicated doors.... ...

 

You can have years of trouble free , then a small problem. You fix that and get more issues...

 

From my experience on these doors,  is that one thing going wrong may not be the problem but something else that has originally started the issue but yet to manifest itself.

 

Water gets in these doors big time. They are designed to allow water to flow down and exit from the bottom drain holes, so although you may not see evidence of this I can assure you it happens. :rofl:

 

If the drain holes are blocked water can sit in the door and although this might not touch any electrical components will create damp.

That damp can have an effect on the wiring. It becomes brittle. Although if untouched will be ok, but the minute you move it , say to unplug a connector on the window control module that is enough to cause a break then bang you get a intermittent problem with poor contact. Now as the remote wire work on a canbus only sending a voltage signal when you operate remote , some time you get lucky , sometimes you don't.

 

Hang in a spare loom from A pillar to all the components and see what happens. I got a loom from a scrappy and this proved to be the issue.

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  • 2 weeks later...

No, not considering I just changed mine for £3.

Although I had to take the door apart to get to the latch mechanism to change the micro switch that operates the interior light. I can post instructions and some pic if anyone interested. The VW forums do not go into detail that well, as stripping down the Octavia door is not the same as a Passat and Golf. It is not a job for the faint hearted. Took me 2 hours. VW,AUDI must of been paid a large sum to make those locking mechanisms that complicated.

I agree.I did same job and ive never been so frustrated! This job can be a pig

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

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  • 1 month later...

Have the same problem, tried swapping mechanisms today and struggled a lot (didnt take the bloody door handle off!!!). In the end it didnt work so will have to try changing the microswitch now. Just need to know which is the best one to use.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today I removed the door module because it died completely,and the switch never worked since I bought the car.

I manage to repair the module by redoing all the soldering,but that switch sistem is a mess....the cam wich press the switch is so worn and got rounded,so there is no way to action the switch,and btw the old one still works but there's nothing to press it.

 

I was expected to be a pita job,but was fairly easy,I removed one rail of the window lifter and made lot of space to manipulate the module.

Edited by IulianE
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Today I removed the door module because it died completely,and the switch never worked since I bought the car.

I manage to repair the module by redoing all the soldering,but that switch sistem is a mess....the cam wich press the switch is so worn and got rounded,so there is no way to action the switch,and btw the old one still works but there's nothing to press it.

 

I was expected to be a pita job,but was fairly easy,I removed one rail of the window lifter and made lot of space to manipulate the module.

 

Good to here you found it not too bad.

 

When I first did one it was a PITA , but now I have done a few and are more familiar with the locks it is a ok job now. :rock:

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  • 1 month later...

Hi,

 

Having just pulled my door apart to replace the window regulator, which died about 3 months after the passenger side door died (probably in sympathy, couples that have been together for a long time tend to depart in fairly quick succession), I have decided, while it is in bits to try and fix the door light, warning buzzer issue that I have.

 

The difference is that it doesn't appear to be quite the same as the issues reported here.

 

In short, when I open the door with the lights on, the warning buzzer and the puddle light come on if the door is only just open, but if you proceed to open further they will both go off (presumably at the same nanosecond, which I can't test, but intuitively that would seem to be the case). As you may expect, should you then close the door until it is just open a little, you can get the light/buzzer to light/sound again.

 

Additionally, the following may be related (as alluded to on this thread). If you unlock, get in, close the door and are a bit tardy getting the keys into the ignition, the car will lock.

 

Now this doesn't sound quite like any other problems, but since I don't know the working of the mechanism at all, I'm just asking of thiose better informed, whether they can think of anything that may cause this. I don't mind pulling things apart, soldering, welding, mechanical work etc. If anything the electrical side of things is my best area (which is a bone of contention with the wife since I keep fixing various white goods and televisions that she would rather spend a fortune on having new). 

 

So there you have it; any thoughts gentlemen?

Edited by Wobsta
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  • 3 months later...

Hi,

Having just pulled my door apart to replace the window regulator, which died about 3 months after the passenger side door died (probably in sympathy, couples that have been together for a long time tend to depart in fairly quick succession), I have decided, while it is in bits to try and fix the door light, warning buzzer issue that I have.

The difference is that it doesn't appear to be quite the same as the issues reported here.

In short, when I open the door with the lights on, the warning buzzer and the puddle light come on if the door is only just open, but if you proceed to open further they will both go off (presumably at the same nanosecond, which I can't test, but intuitively that would seem to be the case). As you may expect, should you then close the door until it is just open a little, you can get the light/buzzer to light/sound again.

Additionally, the following may be related (as alluded to on this thread). If you unlock, get in, close the door and are a bit tardy getting the keys into the ignition, the car will lock.

Now this doesn't sound quite like any other problems, but since I don't know the working of the mechanism at all, I'm just asking of thiose better informed, whether they can think of anything that may cause this. I don't mind pulling things apart, soldering, welding, mechanical work etc. If anything the electrical side of things is my best area (which is a bone of contention with the wife since I keep fixing various white goods and televisions that she would rather spend a fortune on having new).

So there you have it; any thoughts gentlemen?

The wiring that goes through the protective rubber sleeve from the car to the door, has probably got a broken connection.

Or, your door lock microswitch is on its way out.

Or, you have a broken solder joint on the door lock mechanism which is only contacting when the lock gets pressure applied.

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  • 5 months later...

To add my experience.

The puddle light did not work, and the central locking relocked the car after 30 seconds of unlocking and opening the drivers door. Also the interior light did not work with the door.

The door micro switch was the prime suspect.

I followed the walk through on page one the only difference is that  the car has a key lock in the door instead of the blank plate and two screws on the end of the door rather than one, each covered by a small plastic cover.

The top screw is a grub screw to lock the key barrel in place the lower one is as per the walk through.

So I removed the top one and undid the bottom one untill it got stiff.

Then insert the key into the lock and turn 90 degrees anticlockwise, then gently pull on the key and the barrel come out and then carry on as per the walk through.

 

I was unsure how the eight pin connector unlocked from the door lock mech, but it is a simple lever you pull back on the side of the connector, that releases the connector.

 

The door lock mechanism took a bit of wiggling to remove from the door but it came out with a bit of persuasion.

 

I checked the micro switch and it was moving when the cam moved which is why it did not activate. Glued it but it still would not work so I bought a new mechanism on ebay for £23.

Fitted the new one and it all works now.

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  • 3 months later...

Hi,

 

Having just pulled my door apart to replace the window regulator, which died about 3 months after the passenger side door died (probably in sympathy, couples that have been together for a long time tend to depart in fairly quick succession), I have decided, while it is in bits to try and fix the door light, warning buzzer issue that I have.

 

The difference is that it doesn't appear to be quite the same as the issues reported here.

 

In short, when I open the door with the lights on, the warning buzzer and the puddle light come on if the door is only just open, but if you proceed to open further they will both go off (presumably at the same nanosecond, which I can't test, but intuitively that would seem to be the case). As you may expect, should you then close the door until it is just open a little, you can get the light/buzzer to light/sound again.

 

Additionally, the following may be related (as alluded to on this thread). If you unlock, get in, close the door and are a bit tardy getting the keys into the ignition, the car will lock.

 

Now this doesn't sound quite like any other problems, but since I don't know the working of the mechanism at all, I'm just asking of thiose better informed, whether they can think of anything that may cause this. I don't mind pulling things apart, soldering, welding, mechanical work etc. If anything the electrical side of things is my best area (which is a bone of contention with the wife since I keep fixing various white goods and televisions that she would rather spend a fortune on having new). 

 

So there you have it; any thoughts gentlemen?

Mine is exactly the same as this, did you work out if it was the microswitch or something else? What did you do to fix it? Cheers

Edited by Woody77
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Mine is exactly the same as this, did you work out if it was the microswitch or something else? What did you do to fix it? Cheers

 

It's a pretty cheap trial and error thing to be honest.  Cheapest way is to solder in a new switch as per the guide, will cost a few quid.  Or replace the whole mech with a used or pattern part one, either will cost you around 20-30.  I grabbed a used mech for £20, sorted.  If it's problems around lights and buzzers will be pretty sure it is microswitch.  If you fit a new or used mech, lube the hell out of it beforehand. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

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