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Help! My EPC (Emissions) or CEL (Check Engine Lamp) is on.


cjb

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Help! My EPC (Emissions) or CEL (Check Engine Lamp) is on.

There's a very simple thing to check first: your brakelights. If they don't work, check the brake pedal switch. It's a common fault. Also have a look for anything obvious like a loose or failed HT lead, or an audible air leak if that's appropriate for your car.

Other than that, you really need to get your car scanned by someone with VAG-COM (VCDS), a VAS computer (the one dealers have), or a OBD-II scanner.

Of these, the VAS or VCDS/VAG-COM is your best bet as it can read and decode more faults from the car.

You have several ways of getting the car scanned:

* You can pay a Skoda (or other VAG) dealer. Typically this will cost at least £40.

* You can pay an independent garage. This will be a bit cheaper, but unless the garage specialises in VAG cars, it will probably only have a generic scanner.

* You can ask here in the VAG-COM and diagnostics forum. Look at the member map. If there's someone near you, send them a PM, and negotiate a price- which may just be a pint or two.

* You could obtain VAG-COM/VCDS or a code reader yourself. This can cost as little as £20ish for an ebay cable and a limited downloadable version of VAG-COM, but a fully licenced version (with full capability and support from Ross-Tech) costs more.

For later cars (Octavia II and Superb II), you need a CAN-capable scanner or a version of VAG-COM and appropriate genuine Ross-Tech cable that supports CAN-only cars.

A scan really is the only way to try to diagnose a CEL/EPC light, and often odd running problems as well. If you post the logs from the scanner on this site, someone will have a chance of solving your problem. Otherwise, it's just wild guesswork and you could be checking and changing things for ever.

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  • 7 months later...

Help! My EPC (Emissions) or CEL (Check Engine Lamp) is on.

There's a very simple thing to check first: your brakelights. If they don't work, check the brake pedal switch. It's a common fault. Also have a look for anything obvious like a loose or failed HT lead, or an audible air leak if that's appropriate for your car.

Other than that, you really need to get your car scanned by someone with VAG-COM (VCDS), a VAS computer (the one dealers have), or a OBD-II scanner.

Of these, the VAS or VCDS/VAG-COM is your best bet as it can read and decode more faults from the car.

You have several ways of getting the car scanned:

* You can pay a Skoda (or other VAG) dealer. Typically this will cost at least �40.

* You can pay an independent garage. This will be a bit cheaper, but unless the garage specialises in VAG cars, it will probably only have a generic scanner.

* You can ask here in the VAG-COM and diagnostics forum. Look at the member map. If there's someone near you, send them a PM, and negotiate a price- which may just be a pint or two.

* You could obtain VAG-COM/VCDS or a code reader yourself. This can cost as little as �20ish for an ebay cable and a limited downloadable version of VAG-COM, but a fully licenced version (with full capability and support from Ross-Tech) costs more.

For later cars (Octavia II and Superb II), you need a CAN-capable scanner or a version of VAG-COM and appropriate genuine Ross-Tech cable that supports CAN-only cars.

A scan really is the only way to try to diagnose a CEL/EPC light, and often odd running problems as well. If you post the logs from the scanner on this site, someone will have a chance of solving your problem. Otherwise, it's just wild guesswork and you could be checking and changing things for ever.

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If the dashboard says EMISSIONS WORKSHOP it is the sensor at the back of the cylinder head. If you remove the plastic engine cover the sensor is located at the back of the engine near the bulkhead drivers side.

It has a black socket on it , simply slide off the plastic retaining clip and remove, then fit new one , 10 minutes to do it. A sign that this sensor is on its way out is erratic idling.

if you get a ENGINE WORKSHOP warning then check your brake lights as it is the brake switch.bit of a bitch to get to....

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Can anyone help me too ? last week both my EPC and emmisions warning light appeared. The car itself (Octavia VRS late06) is running fine, no obvious problems. took it to local garage who`s diagnostic machine couldn`t help so advised to take it to dealer. Yesterday was at Mervyn Stewart Belfast who diagnosed the `Control Module` may have failed a replacement part is £1250.45 +VAT+FITTING !!! how can this be when the car is running fine? They can`t look at it until the 8th of February but said its ok to drive on until then. Are they just chancing their luck or has anyone else heard of this. One staff member here cant belive this is the problem and they say they might need it for two days and it might just be something simple. Any advice and reasurance would really help me right now all i can think of is the BILL!!! thank you in advance.

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  • 5 months later...

I have the same message on my dashboard, but when enquiring of the dealers about this sensor at the back of the engine cylinder head, they have no idea what i am on about, would it be possible for someone to upload a photo pointing to this sensor so that i can show them exactly which sensor may be at fault please?

thanks

dobie

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  • 8 months later...

Almost spooky.... Read this thread yesterday afternoon, and this morning on the M3 "BING" - Emissions Workshop....

Things like this used to give me a pit-of-the-stomach feeling.... Glad to be on this forum!!!

So, what is the sensor actually sensing? Car seems to run no differently with the light on...

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  • 1 year later...

my epc light comes on but no fault found on the scan of the ecu but car runs if someone is holding it back changed spark plugs,leads changed leaking hose and still the same any one any ideas

thanks in advance

blt

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Is it like a limp home service that you have now. It won't rev past say 3000rpm? Similar to diesel limp home. Just a though if not then fuel blockage?

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  • 3 months later...

Hi following advise on here I changed the Coolant temperature sender from a black one to a green one costing £6 from http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_nkw=COOLANT%20TEMPERATURE%20SENSOR%20SKODA%20SUPERB%201%208%202%208%20&_itemId=360334032523

It was easy to do it on the V6. Just lift the engine cover and the (green) sensor lives on top and in the middle of the V of the cylinder heads. Small screwdriver to lift the catch on the electrical connector, pull the "lyre" clip out, wiggle out the sensor by hand, maybe 1/4 of a cup of coolant comes out then stops, check that the O ring is out using your finger, push the new sensor and O ring down in, refit the lyre clip and push the electrical connector back on. Job done.

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  • 10 months later...

Hi following advise on here I changed the Coolant temperature sender from a black one to a green one costing £6 from http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_nkw=COOLANT%20TEMPERATURE%20SENSOR%20SKODA%20SUPERB%201%208%202%208%20&_itemId=360334032523

It was easy to do it on the V6. Just lift the engine cover and the (green) sensor lives on top and in the middle of the V of the cylinder heads. Small screwdriver to lift the catch on the electrical connector, pull the "lyre" clip out, wiggle out the sensor by hand, maybe 1/4 of a cup of coolant comes out then stops, check that the O ring is out using your finger, push the new sensor and O ring down in, refit the lyre clip and push the electrical connector back on. Job done.

I have done mine this morning.

I got the genuine part from skoda, and guess what. The seal wasn't thick enough.

So I had to use the original one. Friggin wag.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My superb also had the same dashboard warning 'EMISSIONS WORKSHOP'. Looking under the bonet I found a hole had been worn into a small hose by the plastic engine cover. Fixed the hole and warning has gone.

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  • 1 year later...

Not sure if I should post this because, like me u may think" somebody's pulling my thingy". I had a similar problem & had different cures suggested average cost about £450 but this 1 was free. here goes--stop start the engine 5 times  :angel:  :angel: always worth a £450 try.

Tel

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  • 4 years later...

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