WIndscreen And Rubber

[paul barbour]

Hi

I supspect I have a slight leak from my windscreen on a 1998 Felicia, the screen is also marked were the wiper has scored it, it is going to make sense to replace the windscreen and the rubber.

My question is will someone like autoglass replace both these items or will i need to supply the rubber for fitting. Can anyone give me an idea of the cost of a new windscreen and rubber seal.

Thanks

Paul

[djaychela]

Often the bottom lip of the window opening will be rusty (there are a few sheets of metal that are welded together there, and a few years of water in there will have corroded it), so unless that is attended to to make the new seal fit properly, then it will probably leak after; Fel windscreens are renowned for leaking like this. I've never needed to replace a seal when changing a windscreen on one, they are easy enough to get out without damage, so a pro should be able to do it. Last time I looked a screen was about £90, IIRC, but that will probably be a lot more from someone like autoglass, and I might be miles off with that figure anyway (I seem to remember butt's listing them for that, but I could be wrong)

[paul barbour]

Often the bottom lip of the window opening will be rusty (there are a few sheets of metal that are welded together there, and a few years of water in there will have corroded it), so unless that is attended to to make the new seal fit properly, then it will probably leak after; Fel windscreens are renowned for leaking like this. I've never needed to replace a seal when changing a windscreen on one, they are easy enough to get out without damage, so a pro should be able to do it. Last time I looked a screen was about £90, IIRC, but that will probably be a lot more from someone like autoglass, and I might be miles off with that figure anyway (I seem to remember butt's listing them for that, but I could be wrong)

Thanks for this, i have done windscreens before myself, is there nothing special about fitting this screen, we used to just use wire and a helper and fit the screens, this would give me a chance to get a new rubber and screen and look at this problem area you have mentioned.

[paul barbour]

Thanks for this, i have done windscreens before myself, is there nothing special about fitting this screen, we used to just use wire and a helper and fit the screens, this would give me a chance to get a new rubber and screen and look at this problem area you have mentioned.

Actually the screen is not cracked, the screen is scored by the wiper blade this might polish out if i could get it out without breaking it.

Edited 1 March, 2010 by paul barbour

[djaychela]

If you've done 'em before, then you know the score - as you say, the right diameter piece of wire and the right amount of pressure will get it back in easy enough, and getting it out is straightforward too (although on the Fel where the joins in the panelwork are can make the corners a bit tricky so take care there as the seal can get damaged in the top corners when removing it). I'd have thought it would be best to leave it in situ to polish it though? It has plenty of support already round the edges and careful support behind the bit you're polishing will help too.... but as for the leak, I think removing it is probably the way to go; some of the ones I've broken have looked like they were down at the seaside for years the way they've flaked in this area.

[paul barbour]

If you've done 'em before, then you know the score - as you say, the right diameter piece of wire and the right amount of pressure will get it back in easy enough, and getting it out is straightforward too (although on the Fel where the joins in the panelwork are can make the corners a bit tricky so take care there as the seal can get damaged in the top corners when removing it). I'd have thought it would be best to leave it in situ to polish it though? It has plenty of support already round the edges and careful support behind the bit you're polishing will help too.... but as for the leak, I think removing it is probably the way to go; some of the ones I've broken have looked like they were down at the seaside for years the way they've flaked in this area.

Thanks again

Its not a heavy leak at all but it is more the fact that it might effect the electrics, would taking the dash out let me get to this affected area to at least seal it or is the only way taking out the window. Your are right polishing it in place would make more sense. The rest of the car is in very good condition.

Edited 1 March, 2010 by paul barbour

[djaychela]

I think the only way to seal it fully is to do it properly, but that means screen out, probably some grinder work on the scabby bits, and then paint and leaving that to dry. On one of my Felicias (a 1.3 i use as a recce car for large rallies) I just went ape with the silicone sealer instead, doing the WHOLE of the top and the two sides, down the gap between the rubber and the car's body, and it hasn't leaked significantly in the near 4-years since. As I used black sealer and wiped carefully after, it's not a visible repair either, unlike the last bodging **** who'd just smeared some clear stuff on the OUTSIDE of the seal, it looked like a cross-channel swimmer.

[paul barbour]

I think the only way to seal it fully is to do it properly, but that means screen out, probably some grinder work on the scabby bits, and then paint and leaving that to dry. On one of my Felicias (a 1.3 i use as a recce car for large rallies) I just went ape with the silicone sealer instead, doing the WHOLE of the top and the two sides, down the gap between the rubber and the car's body, and it hasn't leaked significantly in the near 4-years since. As I used black sealer and wiped carefully after, it's not a visible repair either, unlike the last bodging **** who'd just smeared some clear stuff on the OUTSIDE of the seal, it looked like a cross-channel swimmer.

You have been a great help, thanks for your time.

[felicia16v]

ok after spending the last 10 or so years fixing the water leaks on felicias here is how we do it....

remove screen simple enough with a couple of flat screwdrivers

at the bottom of the apature on the outer side of the lip drill a small diameter hole (3mm) in the bottom of the well both sides (not in the lip) the easy way to tell where to drill is to run a bit of water down the outside of the lip from the top and drill where the water sits at the bottom, this drains into the engine bay above the battery and wiper motor

usually we drill near to where the small dip is pressed into the bodywork that should act as a drain but doesn't, put a small amount of paint inside the hole drilled with a matchstick or similar to prevent rust

refit screen with new rubber..

what the problem is the drain points in the body aren't deep enough and when the car is sat slightly at an angle the water collects behind the rubber and breaches the lip to run inside instead..

sorry i have no pics if someone can get me a pic of a felicia or fav with the screen out i can highlight where to drill it as i am crap at describing things.

oh and some felicia screens are TIGHT proper tight and even our tame window fitter has been known to break them

[paul barbour]

ok after spending the last 10 or so years fixing the water leaks on felicias here is how we do it....

remove screen simple enough with a couple of flat screwdrivers

at the bottom of the apature on the outer side of the lip drill a small diameter hole (3mm) in the bottom of the well both sides (not in the lip) the easy way to tell where to drill is to run a bit of water down the outside of the lip from the top and drill where the water sits at the bottom, this drains into the engine bay above the battery and wiper motor

usually we drill near to where the small dip is pressed into the bodywork that should act as a drain but doesn't, put a small amount of paint inside the hole drilled with a matchstick or similar to prevent rust

refit screen with new rubber..

what the problem is the drain points in the body aren't deep enough and when the car is sat slightly at an angle the water collects behind the rubber and breaches the lip to run inside instead..

sorry i have no pics if someone can get me a pic of a felicia or fav with the screen out i can highlight where to drill it as i am crap at describing things.

oh and some felicia screens are TIGHT proper tight and even our tame window fitter has been known to break them

Thanks for this info, i understand what you are acheiving from this.

[paul barbour]

Actually great to get back to a car as basic as this, OHV, timing chain, No PAS, Valves you can adjust, no fancy gadgets, good old fashioned basic motor, must still be a market for such a lovable car. Or am i just becoming an old git like my morris minor loving old man, god rest his soul.

Edited 1 March, 2010 by paul barbour

[felicia16v]

no they are refreshingly simple now compared to anything else.. i have been servicing and repairing them since the favorits and even now we get a lot thru the workshop still can do a full service in half a day which is good compared to an octavia or fabia

[paul barbour]

no they are refreshingly simple now compared to anything else.. i have been servicing and repairing them since the favorits and even now we get a lot thru the workshop still can do a full service in half a day which is good compared to an octavia or fabia

Felicia16v is this engine a VW engine.

[felicia16v]

nope the 1.3 in the felicia is a skoda engine mate exactly the same block and head as found on the 1980's rapid's but modernised a bit to run multipoint injection and just generrally updated with modern materials etc, even the 1.4 fabia 8v engine is basically the skoda engine with a beefed up block (same head as 1.3) and longer stroke crankshaft..

i believe it has origins from a renault engine from the 60's but not sure on that one

[swedishskoda]

If you're unlucky you can have the rust problem mentioned by djaychela, but in my experience Felly screens leak even when the bottom lip is fresh. I guess this is partly due to bad design and partly to rubber seals that harden when old. You can see how rain water stays in the bottom corner of the screen, not flowing freely over the seal, and of course if there's even the smallest space open, water will seep through.

New rubber seal plus carefully apllied silicone sealant will fix it, but to avoid replacement in a few years the drilling job described by felicia 16v is probably a wise strategy (will try it myself next time)

Edited 2 March, 2010 by swedishskoda

[paul barbour]

If you're unlucky you can have the rust problem mentioned by djaychela, but in my experience Felly screens leak even when the bottom lip is fresh. I guess this is partly due to bad design and partly to rubber seals that harden when old. You can see how rain water stays in the bottom corner of the screen, not flowing freely over the seal, and of course if there's even the smallest space open, water will seep through.

New rubber seal plus carefully apllied silicone sealant will fix it, but to avoid replacement in a few years the drilling job described by felicia 16v is probably a wise strategy (will try it myself next time)

Ok thanks for all of this, the answer is to replace the screen and rubber I think, so were is the best place to purchase these items.

[thewatchmaker]

Ok thanks for all of this, the answer is to replace the screen and rubber I think, so were is the best place to purchase these items.

My Felicia is driving me nuts!

After sealing the screen all round glass to rubber and rubber to metal I took the hose pipe to the car today and water simply poors in from somewhere deff not the screen seal as it comes in from below when screen dry.

Seems as if its from heater area and flows out towards doors then runs onto floor . (heater box dry and drains clear)

Problem only seems to happen when parked on my steep drive, nose first.

Any ideas most welcome.

[felicia16v]

when you say parkwed nose first do you mean pointing uphill?

we did have some that leaked thru the front bulkhead behind the battery, we fixed the majority of these with thick waxoil sprayed thru an underseal gun around all the seals and joints on the bulkhead but if you have the time you could pull the carpets down from inside and put a 300w halagon lamp inside when its dark and see if you can see any pinholes in the engine bay (is how we seal the rally cars for dust)

[thewatchmaker]

when you say parkwed nose first do you mean pointing uphill?

we did have some that leaked thru the front bulkhead behind the battery, we fixed the majority of these with thick waxoil sprayed thru an underseal gun around all the seals and joints on the bulkhead but if you have the time you could pull the carpets down from inside and put a 300w halagon lamp inside when its dark and see if you can see any pinholes in the engine bay (is how we seal the rally cars for dust)

I will give that a try as I am running out of options .

Yes by nose first I did mean uphill so any water that collected in the bulkhead area would run in if any holes were present.

Thanks for your input.

[przebor]

On 1.03.2010 at 18:53, felicia16v said:

at the bottom of the apature on the outer side of the lip drill a small diameter hole (3mm) in the bottom of the well both sides (not in the lip) the easy way to tell where to drill is to run a bit of water down the outside of the lip from the top and drill where the water sits at the bottom, this drains into the engine bay above the battery and wiper motor

 

I'm not sure if I understood correctly. Could you guys please show me on pic below where I should drill holes? 
I think there is a factory one in the bottom of trough (near the bottom of picture). 

 

 

 

Link to big picture -> http://images.imagebam.com/f7/da/4e/3d1d58604998633.JPG