Jump to content
READ ME - iOS Notifications - How To Enable - Guide

No dashboard lights and engine won't run

Dajoca

By Dajoca
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dajoca Explorer

Dajoca

Posted
Posted

Hi again. I am hoping that someone knows what could possibly cause this / these problems with a 2001 Octavia.

My wife drove the car tonight and after a while noticed that the dashboard dials were not working, although the car was going fine.

She parked the car and then went to restart it, but saw that the display was dead except for the battery light and the engine started and then immediately stopped and the clock was also wrong.

Battery power is good and lights, indicators all work and display on dash, but no startup lights, fuel, speedo etc, except the battery light. Engine starts easily but will not continue beyond1-2 seconds.

I locked and unlocked the car many times in case it was an imobiliser issue and on two occasions the dashboard lit up properly, dials functioned and engine started, however since then it is no go.

Called out the AA and the guy went through all of the connections around the dash, fuses and battery connection with no luck.

So I got towed back and currently have a dead car which seems to be of unknown cause.

Background is that last week the dash clock just went rapidly through the 24 hours for a day and the interior lights failed for 10 minutes which makes me think the electrical gremlins have struck.

The condensed version is, if I can get the dashboard to light up, the engine runs, but if the dash is dark, the engine starts easily but will not run.

Short of it being the ECU, or some random broken connection, has anyone else experienced a similar glitch?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mbames Experienced

mbames

Posted
Posted

try pulling fuse 15 and see if that helps with the dash instruments. If so then you most likely have a dry point near to a voltage regular on the dash PCB.

The immobiliser pickup loom may be defective which would generally cause the immobiliser dash light to flash (if the lights were working on the dash......)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dajoca Explorer

Dajoca

Posted
  • Author
Posted

[All fuses are good. I've just been out and checked them.

The blower starts as soon as the key is turned and all of the usual dashboard noises occur, but only the red battery symbol lights up and car will start but not run.

The AA guy said it appears that everything else is getting the correct power, except the display and whatever else is disabled because of that.

My next thing is to rip the dash apart and look for connection problems, because I did see all the lights and get the engine to run twice yesterday, so it seemed to be intermittent at first.

Anyone point me to a good diagram for ripping out the dash on a 2001 2.0L Octavia Ambiente ?

Failing any of that working, maybe a sacrificial burning to the great god of car electrics is in order.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
skoda norm Community Regular

skoda norm

Posted
Posted

[All fuses are good. I've just been out and checked them.

The blower starts as soon as the key is turned and all of the usual dashboard noises occur, but only the red battery symbol lights up and car will start but not run.

The AA guy said it appears that everything else is getting the correct power, except the display and whatever else is disabled because of that.

My next thing is to rip the dash apart and look for connection problems, because I did see all the lights and get the engine to run twice yesterday, so it seemed to be intermittent at first.

Anyone point me to a good diagram for ripping out the dash on a 2001 2.0L Octavia Ambiente ?

Failing any of that working, maybe a sacrificial burning to the great god of car electrics is in order.

th_DSC00086.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rwbaldwin Experienced

rwbaldwin

Posted
Posted

Check fuses 10 and 11.

Does the blower fan work when the key is in the 'ignition on' position?

OK, that confirms the problem is likely to be with the cluster itself.

It's not the immobiliser as the dash lights/gauges would work until the engine is started. The immo is only checked after the engine has started and if there is a problem the engine stops.

It is likely to be one of two things.

1. A bad regulator inside the cluster.

2. The loom that connects to the cluster has been vibrating and has caused a wire to break at the connector or a solder joint is dry inside the cluster.

If you want to check the power to the cluster then the following info will be useful.

There are three power feeds

1. Permanent live via F15 - Red/Lilac

2. Switched live via F10 - Yellow/Red

3. Switched live via F11 - Black/Lilac

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dajoca Explorer

Dajoca

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi. I just want to say a huge thanks to everyone who has replied. What a great forum and truly helpful members.

The spare key has been tried and didn't work, but I am unclear on how that would alter things.

Is it not just the physical shape of the key when I start the car, or is there some background magic going on as well?

Next check then is to get at the loom and the back of the cluster for a good look.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dajoca Explorer

Dajoca

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Just another little gem of an update.

I got in the car to rip out the dash and as soon as I turned the key, all of the lights and dials functioned properly and the engine started and is running fine.....

So as the fault has again proved itself to be intermittent, is it most likely to be dry joint, damp or water ingress or can component failure be as random as this?

Could it even be the lock mechanism?

I am still going to rip out the dash and have a check of the cluster, because I am certain this one hasn't gone away for long.

Update... Turned it off and it went straight back to having the fault.

Edited by Dajoca
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dajoca Explorer

Dajoca

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got the cluster out.

No sign of water, but given how tight it is behind there, I can't see if there is a wear point on the cables or not.

The car behaves exactly the same if I try to start it without the cluster in place, so I am hoping that's a good sign.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rwbaldwin Experienced

rwbaldwin

Posted
Posted

Got the cluster out.

No sign of water, but given how tight it is behind there, I can't see if there is a wear point on the cables or not.

The car behaves exactly the same if I try to start it without the cluster in place, so I am hoping that's a good sign.

Have you checked the 3 feeds and the ground connection? You will need a meter.

Don't be afraid to manhandle the loom

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dajoca Explorer

Dajoca

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have just had a look at the two parts of the loom that go to the back of the cluster, but can't see enough to ID those colour wires tonight, so I will have to have a better look in the morning, but thanks very much for all the help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dajoca Explorer

Dajoca

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Gents. It is all working again (for now)...

Stripped out the cluster and dismantled the right side of the dash to gain better access to the loom and relays and also what I presume to be the ECU.

Unplugged and replugged all connectors and relays, checked loom for wear, stripped down cluster and checked soldered joints.

Couldn't find anything obviously amiss, but upon refitting, the whole lot sprang happily to life.

Had a bit of doubt when I visited a cluster repair website and they stated that the car should run without the cluster connected.

It doesn't, so I was concerned that it was a different issue affecting the engine anf the display.

But upon reconnecting the cluster, all lights, bells and whistles kicked in and the car started nicely.

I was unable to check the supply on the wires identified by RWBaldwin, as that part of the loom is completely and tightly wrapped and would require the wrapping to be cut off to even see the wire colours.

I am therefore hoping it was a connection problem, especially as it took the engine out with it, but I would really like to thank all of the members here for the great help and advice given.

Assuming the issue is solved, would it be helpful if I was to post photo's of the various screw points and connectors / relays involved?

Cheers all and thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.