No dashboard lights and engine won't run

[rwbaldwin]

If you didn't disconnect the battery when you removed the cluster that's why you now have the airbag light on.

Disconnecting the cluster usually has no effect on the airbag system - it just contains a light.

You said in an earlier post you came across something you thought was the ECU. The ECU is under the bonnet under the right plenum chamber cover.

Was the thing you thought was the ECU black plastic or a metal box?

The metal box to the left of the steering wheel is the airbag control unit and that would cause problems if you pulled its connector without disconnect the battery. The airbag control unit needs resetting with VCDS.

[pauldazzle]

rwbaldwin

I stand corrected. I know that if you unplug any part of the airbag system with the battery connected it triggers the airbag light, & wrongly assumed the cluster would be part of the system.

Edited 18 November, 2010 by pauldazzle

[Dajoca]

Darn...

That seems to be exactly what I did, and definitely not the ECU then, but I am remembering it as a black plastic box to the right of the steering column and above all of the relays. (Could easily be wrong though)

I take it the airbags are non functional ATM and a reset with VCDS is a Skoda only job or can any garage with the correct gear reset it?

On the plus side everything else seems to be working as it should, so once again thank you for all of the help.

[rwbaldwin]

Darn...

That seems to be exactly what I did, and definitely not the ECU then, but I am remembering it as a black plastic box to the right of the steering column and above all of the relays. (Could easily be wrong though)

I take it the airbags are non functional ATM and a reset with VCDS is a Skoda only job or can any garage with the correct gear reset it?

On the plus side everything else seems to be working as it should, so once again thank you for all of the help.

The black plastic box is the Central Convenience Unit (CCU). Disconnecting it shouldn't affect the airbag system, so my guess is that you disturbed the steering wheel loom which includes the connection for the airbag.

The dealer can reset the airbag system (using VAS) or there maybe a Briskoda member near to you with VCDS.

[Dajoca]

Almost everything is working great, but I have two glitches now that I am truly baffled by.

I dicovered I had broken fuse 5, so I have temporarily replaced it with fuse 15.

I now find that the windows do not function from the inside door switches, but do from key in the door lock.

With fuse 5 in place, turning on the ignition locks the boot, but turning on the headlights unlocks the boot.

Without fuse 5 in place the boot will lock when the ignition is turned, but not unlock again.

At least the dash is functional and the engine runs, so I have transport to some degree.

I also have a new found respect for anyone who works with the random chaos of auto electrics.

[rwbaldwin]

F5 is the fuse for the central locking. IIRC, this fuse is smaller than F15 so be careful.

All the things, you are having problems with are controlled by the CCU (Central Convenience Unit - the black box sitting on the little shelf you found earlier). Disconnect the battery and wait for at least 30 minutes. Whilst you are waiting, check the pins on the CCU connector.

[Dajoca]

Once again thank you.

So the CCU will re-set if left without power?

[rwbaldwin]

Once again thank you.

So the CCU will re-set if left without power?

It should do.

When you disturbed the connector with the battery connected you were effectively supplying intermittant power to the unit.

[Dajoca]

Mr Baldwin you are a genius.

Everything is fully functional again and I surely must owe you, Paul and the other guys here quite a few pints at least.

My only concern is why it all just died completely in the first place and fingers crossed it doesn't do that again.

Thanks very much again.

[Dajoca]

Well true to form it has just happened again.

Started the car and the Oil warning light flashed on, so checked the oil which was fine.

Started the car again and the dash display started flickering, then all of the dials went to zero and all lights except the battery light went off.

The display is once again dead and the engine will not run as the car turns over and then dies instantly.

Last time I removed the entire dash and display, which got the car running again, so I thought it best to try the lower dash connections and the display separately this time, to see if I could isolate where the problem is.

Ripped out the lower dash and removed all connectors, solenoids and fuses and reseated them. Also did the same with the steering column.

Tried to start the car, but no change.

Have now ripped out the display again and am looking for any dry joints, but without success so far.

I guess the next step is a display repair, but I am reluctant to go to that expense if that isn't the problem.

I have read lots of complaints about the display dying, but not any about it also disabling the car with it.

Any ideas at all?

Thank you in advance.

[Dajoca]

I have just had a very long and detailed look at the board from the display and apart from a few very small bits of waste solder, can only see this as a potential villain.

http://1vision.org.uk/car_trouble/h2ad87e28#h2ad87e28

Is this a possible dodgy joint because of the way the solder is in a shiny ball rather than a grey pyramid like the others?

[SP-1]

I have just had a very long and detailed look at the board from the display and apart from a few very small bits of waste solder, can only see this as a potential villain.

http://1vision.org.uk/car_trouble/h2ad87e28#h2ad87e28

Is this a possible dodgy joint because of the way the solder is in a shiny ball rather than a grey pyramid like the others?

Don't know if that's the cause but thaat joint is definetly dodgy. If you can solder, apply a soldering iron to it, float a bit of fresh solder on, and see if it smooths out. Don't heat it for too long because it'll do damage. If not, and you know what a solder sucker is, you could always try removing the bead of solder all together. If the pad's gone you can maybe solder a small bridge in.

If you don't have a clue what I'm talking about, any electronics shop will be able to do it in minutes.

[Dajoca]

Cheers SP-1 and thank you for the reply. I'm not too bad with soldering, but I wanted a reality check before tackling it, just in case I was way off.

[Dajoca]

Update. It is now working again..... Yay!

I re-soldered the suspect connection and reassembled the dash. Hey presto, the car sprang to life, with one glitch, in that the battery symbol on the dash is now permanently lit.

If that is the only penalty, then I am happy, but I just hope that the solder connection was the only culprit for the total breakdown of the car, because it is a nightmare to fault find.

Thanks to all here again for their help, and if anyone can shed light on why the battery light would be lit, I would be eternally grateful.

[JWVW]

I had the same problem. I went to move my flat mates car but tried to open the door with another flat mates Skoda key. Realized it was wrong when the door didn't open so got the correct key and drove it round the corner. 10 mins later when flat mate tried to drive it she found the dash dead and engine would only run for a second before cutting out. Same happened with spare key. Checked fuses (no15 seems to be for dash) disconnected battery and put jump lead between car terminals for 10 mins. Did a basic diagnostic test but had no error codes and Still the same thing. Then local mechanic friend said he'd reset an Audi by putting key in ignition and turning on, then disconnected battery for an hour, then reconnect with key still in and turned on.

First time I did this it worked but all the lights were alight on the dash board. When I turned engine off and presses key remotes to test door openers the same problem came back and car wouldn't run.

The last time I left the engine running with all the dash lights on then took it for a drive... Miraculously the warning lights (except airbag which is always on apparently) went out, car now locks/unlocks and runs fine... Problem solved

Thought this might help someone else

[AnonymousWaffle]

I know this is an old forum, but a diagnostic computer may, just may take off the battery sign.

[ckido]

Dear Skoda friends,

 

Since i am facing the same issue, i prefer, re-opening the current post, than creating a new one.

 

I am owner of a Octavia Petrol 1,6 MPI (1U2_BFQ) engine and i face the same issue.

 

A soon as i turn the key, the battery sign is not lit on the dash and all the other lights are dimmed, after 2 seconds i will hear the ventilator to start for 2 seconds and the battery light will be flickering.......If i try to start the engine, the engine will not start. (Battery is brand new)

 

If i turn off the key, remove it or not and then i try to turn the key back on, i will have the same results and maybe if i am lucky on the fourth or fifth time, dash lights will operate as normal and the car will start and operate as new....

 

In addition, yesterday and tomorrow morning i inserted and turn the key and the instrument cluster would not work at all. No sound no lights.......i had to turn off and on the key, more than 6 times to get all the normal lights on and start the engine..

 

Checks up to now:

1. battery is brand new

2. Fuses 10 / 11 / 15 are OK.

3. With the car running, if i remove fuse 15, will not have any affect on the gauges.

 

Any Ideas??? I am currently uploading the video of the behavior on youtube and i will post the link here.

 

Thank you very much in advance for your time....

[ckido]

Link of this strange behavior