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Fabia power steering problems?


Tech1e

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  • 3 weeks later...

Power steering now working again.

Replacement rack (c/w sensor) £80, pump £145. Total £225.

The pump does not need to be reset if there has been an error, once the error condition is cleared it will go back to normal. I think my old pump gave up because I ran the car for a month with no fluid in the rack thinking it was disabled. A bit stupid and if this happened again I would immediately pull the pump fuse. That said, my old pump was in a pretty dire state compared to the replacement and I put that down to the stupid foam jacket.

It seems the pumps and racks MAY not need to be matched (DYOR). I tried both types of sensors with a working pump (TRW) and they both caused the pump to kick in when the steering pinion was turned.

Edited by Glenn_1966
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My light on my TDI comes on at times when starting from cold as i drive off but still have power next junction or lights I switch off, turn key light goes out all OK, just learnt to live with it, sounds like it could well be sensor ?

Peter your right what you state, there is talk that this may change soon.

On the subject of the MOT, just having the light on is not a fail, the PAS not working at all is but if the light is on and there is some assistance it should pass.

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  • 2 months later...

My light on my TDI comes on at times when starting from cold as i drive off but still have power next junction or lights I switch off, turn key light goes out all OK, just learnt to live with it, sounds like it could well be sensor ?

I've had the same problem and done the same thing since I bought my car five years ago, but after reading this thread last week I decided to investigate further. I removed the battery and battery tray (a surprisingly chewy job on a 1.4 TDI) so that I could get to the PS fluid reservoir, and found that the reservoir cap unscrewed very easily - so easily that I doubt if it was actually making a proper seal. The fluid in the reservoir was only just touching the very bottom of the dipstick, so I added about 100ml to raise the level to midway between the max and min levels, then screwed the cap back on tightly (by hand). Since then the car must have been started over 20 times without the warning light showing once so, fingers crossed, that may have been all that was required.

I have no idea how the warning light sensor works, but if it's measuring pressure in the system then I can only guess that the slightly loose cap was allowing air at the top of the resevoir to leak out while the car was standing, and fool the sensor into thinking that the fluid level was too low (and also allow the fluid to very gradually evaporate, adding to the problem). It would also explain why the problem was always worse during cold weather, leading me to think it may have been the battery which was causing the problem (it's now eight years old, and I was going to change it anyway before the winter sets in, but now I think I'll leave it a while and see if the PAS problem reappears first).

I'll post an update in a few days as to how the car progresses.

Edited by Dave1953
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I've had the same problem and done the same thing since I bought my car five years ago, but after reading this thread last week I decided to investigate further. I removed the battery and battery tray (a surprisingly chewy job on a 1.4 TDI) so that I could get to the PS fluid reservoir, and found that the reservoir cap unscrewed very easily - so easily that I doubt if it was actually making a proper seal. The fluid in the reservoir was only just touching the very bottom of the dipstick, so I added about 100ml to raise the level to midway between the max and min levels, then screwed the cap back on tightly (by hand). Since then the car must have been started over 20 times without the warning light showing once so, fingers crossed, that may have been all that was required.

I have no idea how the warning light sensor works, but if it's measuring pressure in the system then I can only guess that the slightly loose cap was allowing air at the top of the resevoir to leak out while the car was standing, and fool the sensor into thinking that the fluid level was too low (and also allow the fluid to very gradually evaporate, adding to the problem). It would also explain why the problem was always worse during cold weather, leading me to think it may have been the battery which was causing the problem (it's now eight years old, and I was going to change it anyway before the winter sets in, but now I think I'll leave it a while and see if the PAS problem reappears first).

I'll post an update in a few days as to how the car progresses.

It appears I spoke too soon, as the warning light came on again twice this morning (albeit without noticeable loss of power assistance). On the other hand, it was frosty this morning and the battery definitely struggled to crank the engine, so I think the time has come to replace it and see what happens next.

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  • 3 weeks later...

It appears I spoke too soon, as the warning light came on again twice this morning (albeit without noticeable loss of power assistance). On the other hand, it was frosty this morning and the battery definitely struggled to crank the engine, so I think the time has come to replace it and see what happens next.

I just thought I'd let you all know that I changed the battery for a 77Ah Bosch S5008 a couple of weeks ago, and it has made a big difference: the PAS warning light seems to have finally disappeared for good, and starting is now instantaneous - the benefit, I suppose of the extra 10% capacity of the battery compared with a new Skoda version, and probably 50% extra compared with the eight year old one which was in the car. The Manual says to change the battery every five years anyway, so I'd had my money's worth out of the old one, but it does look as though it was probably the failing battery which was causing the PAS problem. I wonder how many pumps and sensors have been needlessly changed when the battery was the real culprit?

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I just thought I'd let you all know that I changed the battery for a 77Ah Bosch S5008 a couple of weeks ago, and it has made a big difference: the PAS warning light seems to have finally disappeared for good, and starting is now instantaneous - the benefit, I suppose of the extra 10% capacity of the battery compared with a new Skoda version, and probably 50% extra compared with the eight year old one which was in the car. The Manual says to change the battery every five years anyway, so I'd had my money's worth out of the old one, but it does look as though it was probably the failing battery which was causing the PAS problem. I wonder how many pumps and sensors have been needlessly changed when the battery was the real culprit?

Good result, though predictable, the reservoir cover not being tight should not hasve made any difference, it just means that the next time you check it it will be harder to get it loose. When the fluid is cold it will only be on the lower lip of the cap.

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  • 2 months later...

sum1 pin this very useful :) mine goes out evry once in a while going very heavy then being fine again, whats the most likely cause of that...

Mine does!

I cleaned up both battery terminals and both cable connections with emery paper and a wire brush and so far... the power steering has never faulted since???

Might be worth trying?

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  • 1 month later...

I have just bought a fabia, comfort estate 1.9 tdi . It is an 03 plate & only done £8000 miles. Never had a car with all this electronic stuff before so I am learning. Guess what I started to have the pas light come on. I found out like others that if you turn the ignition off & back on again it dissapears. I read all the posts & started to get worried had I bought a pup?

The car belonged to one of 2 old brothers that lived together but he passed away. the other brother had a Skoda as well & he said he has the same problem.

This got me thinking as I am an electrician I was wondering what was happening.

I decided that when you turn the key nothing much happens except the computer sets itself & the various lights go out & the glow plugs kick in.

When you turn the key to start the car the starter motor starts, & all this helps to drain the battery.

Then the pas motor goes to start but hey ho the battery is at a lower power now & thinks ho this isnt going to work properly so the light comes on.

Because it has all started though and evrything has kicked in & warmed slightly when you turn the ignition off & back on again there is just that extra bit in the battery & less strain to start the engine the pas light goes out.

So simply I thought I will charge the battery, since then over a wek ago & in cold weather the light hasnt come back on.

The problem is that like myself & the brothers that do not do a lot of mileage & only use it for shopping the battery gets drained with it standing & doesnt charge up enough just going short distances. So when the pas light comes on it is time to charge the battery.

Just a tip I used my optimiser I bought from Lidles for my motorbike to charge the battery, I fitted it with a cigarrete lighter plug & just plug it in the one in the car. easier than crocodile clips on the battery.

Hope this helps some people

Andy

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  • 3 weeks later...

http://www.amazon.co..._pr_product_top

Anyone know if this is the correct scanner for my 05 SDI Fabia I to have a problem with the power steering going off then on then off then ...... (you get the picture ) I've replaced the alternator and the battery cleaned up all the connectors on the battery and the pump (stupid place for it) but no better.

Need to see if its the pump or the sensor.

One of the comments on another scanner said that it is the correct one but I'd hate to buy the wrong one :doh:

Edited by The Real Tom Tom
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That should read the faults but would the shareware (free) version of VCDS not be a better bet?

To resolve my PAS issue (random changes in PAS weight ranging from minimal to total loss, light coming on whenever the revs dipped too low and pulsing dash/headlights) I initially thought battery or alternator but both were fine, I replaced the aux belt as it was past it's best, checked the earth's, the fuses, the PAS fluid (minor top up required but probably not checked for a decade +). I cleaned the sensor and it got better short term but after a week it was back. Eventually I got sick of the pump sounding like I was fractionally moving the wheel left/right when I was stationary and ordered an angle sensor which fixed the issue.

Take note two current revisions of the angle sensor are in use (no i'm not talking about the plastic/metal version), my car is a 1.4mpi Classic on a Y plate and the commonly mentioned part number wasn't suitable, Rainworth ordered the correct part for £97.99 delivered, they list on ebay, it worked out the same cost as the other but with a refundable £40 surcharge for the old unit. It fixed my PAS issue and the light issue which I can only assume was due to the draw from the PAS pump caused by the angle sensor being under the impression I was moving the wheel backwards and forwards. Car now drives as it should and has been spot on ever since I fitted it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Really very useful topic. After reading through this, I've upgraded my battery and, hey presto... what do you know. Most of my niggily little faults have buggered off the the time being. Fingers crossed :dance: <--- actually did this dance!

Avie

Edited by avie rose
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  • 1 month later...

Ive replaced my battery, and the alternator is fine, but if i hold my revs at 1500, i turn the wheel and the battery light comes on and revs drop down to about 500-700 revs. Could this be a faulty pump? it also occasionally sounds like the pump is running even when the wheels are dead ahead and the wheel isnt being moved.

The car has been stored (on grass) for about 18 months and i recently removed the water soaked insulating foam.

could this just be a sensor or could it be a faulty pump?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know this is possibly a little late but that's classic sensor failure based on the random pump actuation without any steering input but check the earth's/fuses to be on the safe side.

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i Changed the earth lead, and it seems to have fix the issue, but now at low engine revs my PAS is quite heavy and at high engine speeds its fine. is this an alternator fault?

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Hi ..I have Skoda Fabia 2002 1.4l, Suddenly my car power steering light is on ...and i have noticed every morning when i start my car my power steering does not work and later in a day every thing is fine, I have check with Authorized Skoda service they say that steering unit is broken and you need to replace this ...and this will come along with gear and pump with wooping cost of 1200 Euro ... Please help is this is true ..if any thing is broken then how come it works fine later today ..

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Get the fault codes read (Skoda will have done this when they checked it so should be able to provide you with the info, if not VCDS lite and a generic lead from eBay is cheap), check the fluid level, it's a battery/battery box out job so often overlooked on service and check the earth's. While it's not unheard of for a rack to go sometimes main dealers will just replace parts at your expense rather than diagnose the issue properly.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi All

Well I have a problem with the PAS as well (seems very common). So my problem is that my Fabia I stood for a week and I started it up ad the PAS light came on. There were so signs before that the PAS will fail. I have already removed the sensor and cleaned it, Checked the wiring loom to the pump and sensor all looks ok. I connected it to VAG and it showed me those:

Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 6Q0-423-156.LBL

Controller: 6Q0 423 156 E

Component: Lenkhilfe 0001

Coding: 00110

Shop #: WSC 00000

2 Faults Found:

01288 - Terminal 30; Steering Assist

06-00 - Signal too High

01290 - Reference Voltage; Steering Assist

29-00 - Short to Ground

I also checked the mass blocks, screens below

powersteer.jpg

powersteer2.jpg

On the steering angle sensor on VCDS the values do not change but I would think that that because of the ''Signal to high'' or because the pump is in OFF mode. Now I would like to know is there a way to diagnose it further or something else that I could try? I just want to make sure that it is the sensor or the pump.

Thanks

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18.63v at terminal 30 ain't right for sure. I'd check your charge rate and confirm but that looks like an alternator fault to me.

I was thinking that same. But when I go to engine on VCDS it shows about 13.8V when engine is idling.........

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The only problem is that I dont have a meter........But I will try and move the wires near the alternator maybe that will do something?..............but then again it should not show the 01290 ''short to ground''??. I checked the ground wires and they seem ok, maybe replace the ground wire?

Edited by peter2117
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Technically that fault code may not mean its shorted to ground. That's on the 5v signal wire that gets sent out from the control unit to the sensor that then gets sent back via the hall sensor. Looking at group 4 field 3 that states ok.

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