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Engine mount fitting


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Hi guys,

Just about to order some uprated engine mounts and was just wondering how easy they are to fit?

Had a scout around and can only find the dog bone mount fitting and not the other 2?

Any help would be great,

CheeRS

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I did the gearbox and dogbone mount

Gearbox is hidden under airbox, and is not too bad to do. I did a guide somewhere

Dogbone is easy. lots of guides on that one

Engine is a little more difficult as it needs a bit of stuff moving out the way, under coolant overflow.

Bolts snapped on mine and a garage did it, so not too sure, but don't see why it would be any more difficult than gearbox side. Just need to make sure the engine is aligned :thumbup:

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Cheers for the reply.

The dog bone does look very straight forward, ive changed engine mounts before on my old GTi-6. The bottom one was a nightmare as the mount housing was part the driveshaft (passed through).

I like to find as much info as possible before starting these jobs.

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I also changed mine on my old pug 309 goodwood when i fitted a 16v engine from a 405 mi16.(miss that car) :doh:

The Skoda engine/box bolts upwards to the mounts so you need to support from underneath and hold in place. doing each side seperatley is the best option so the engine does not move out of alignment too much.

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I also changed mine on my old pug 309 goodwood when i fitted a 16v engine from a 405 mi16.(miss that car) :doh:

The Skoda engine/box bolts upwards to the mounts so you need to support from underneath and hold in place. doing each side seperatley is the best option so the engine does not move out of alignment too much.

Did that on the pug, jack on the sump with a board to spread the load.

Edited by Liam-6
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Liam

Just be careful if/when you do the O/S engine mounting.

The 3 vertical bolts that secure the horizontal alloy brkt that goes from the inner wing mounting to the engine brkt are stretch bolts and need to be replaced.

Also the above brk has to be adjusted when refitting to ensure its orientation in relation to the engine brkt is correct to VAG spec's.

Failure to do the above could result in either/or the mounting brkt/ bolts breaking.....which is'nt good, cos its possible for cambelt to be damaged if the engine drops.

HTH

Bill.

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Liam

Just be careful if/when you do the O/S engine mounting.

The 3 vertical bolts that secure the horizontal alloy brkt that goes from the inner wing mounting to the engine brkt are stretch bolts and need to be replaced.

Also the above brk has to be adjusted when refitting to ensure its orientation in relation to the engine brkt is correct to VAG spec's.

Failure to do the above could result in either/or the mounting brkt/ bolts breaking.....which is'nt good, cos its possible for cambelt to be damaged if the engine drops.

HTH

Bill.

+1 for that,

absolutley important, as i experienced a engine bracket failure.

This in fact was not engine bracket failure but bolts snapping. The idiot garage that did the cambelt change, did not replace the stretch bolts(which interesting enough VW dealers will tell you don't need replacing) and thus the garage may have either overtightened them or did not align the bracket ect etc.

Resulting in the engine dropping(as there is no lower support).

First thing i knew was a loud bang and severe rubbing noise and i stopped asap.

Luckily i was driving slowly coming up to a roundabout in town. I opened up bonnet and it was obvious what had happened as the engine was at a good slant angle downwards at the cambelt side with the cambelt cover smashed on the side of the inner wing. How the hell the cambelt did not snap or jump i will never know as the cambelt tensior top section broke off also.

I was very lucky. If it had gone on the motorway kiss goodbye to engine, and probably car.

Edited by Bowders1
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