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hi i was just gong to upgrage my speakers and was wondering if anyone knew the sizes front and rear cheers

I know rk696 has already answered, but these are the full sizes from the workshop manual:

Front main = 168mm

Front tweeter = 36mm

Rear main = 130mm

Rear tweeter = 36mm

I really need to sort out my speakers because they sound cack!

I have an Alpine CDE-9880R headunit, which is brilliant. I've run the USB cable and iPod cable into the glovebox through a hole, which keeps things tidy.

My rear speakers are as standard, but I replaced the front main speakers with Infinity REF6522SI speakers. They fit perfectly, but sound rubbish! I think the main reason is that they are 2-way speakers, so I've lost the high level tweeter of the standard setup, and now the tweeter is down by my feet. The other reason is that I think the door enclosures suck! I'm going to try some sound deadening in the doors next.

I'm also planning on changing the front speakers to a component setup, to bring the high lever tweeters back into play. The Alpine SPE-17SF speakers look ideal, and will fit due to their shallow design. I'd like a sub too, but can't spare the space in the boot.

Amazingly the wife actually wants me to spend loads of money making the sound better in the car! She's a metalhead, and I'm a petrolhead....

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Bodge, have you tried cutting out some of the foam behind the speakers? From the factory, there is a foam lining behind whcih stops the speaker getting wet. It also stops the speaker giving out and decent sound as it stops it using the door as an enclosure.

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I/we recently changed my front speakers in my car, as I was getting a really bad distortion sound from them and I could hardly turn up the volume at all before it sounded bad.

When we took the door apart, the speakers looked like the OEM ones, made by Blunkpunt - and I practically was able to pierce a hole through them without much effort at all.

We went to Halfords and picked up a pair of new ones for £40. I can't remember the depth but they weren't that 'slim'. We had an old door speaker with us for comparison to be sure.

Under the door panel, when removed to get at the speakers, the driver side was covered with plastic to protect all the electrics and speakers and the passenger side was protected with foam (which seems to suggest that my car has been broken into sometime in it's lifetime). The speakers mount into a 'spacer' which mounts onto the door which effectively brings the speakers forward a bit in the door (hence why the depth of the speaker wasn't too much of a worry for me) - and with a Stanley knife we cut the plastic and foam backing within the inside of this spacers. I'm pretty sure this foam/plastic was a cause of most of the distortion-sounding noise.

I have a Pioneer head-unit and all speakers in my car are all Kenwood. Sounds awesome now. :)

I'll edit this post when I get home with the speaker model number so you can maybe find the depth of them on-line somewhere (don't think it states this on the box).

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Sorry, a bit late I know, but for future reference for those searching/reading the forum for info - those speakers I was on about in front doors of Skoda Octavia Mk1 (2003) were:

Kenwood KFC-E1762.

Which have the following dimensions:

Diameter = 5 1/2 inch cone (totals 6 1/2 inch with the fixed bracket for the screws to go into);

Depth = 1 3/4 inch (4.45 cm).

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The fronts are shallow fit ones, normal depth speakers dont fit so there are only a few people who make them!

Mine are Pioneer as they do a shallow fit.

do u know what code the pionner r as i did actually ask about advice on speakers in the ice section but no one seems to be answering as its between alpine and pioneer but the pioneer i looked at has the adaptor so it will simply go on the old connections and was wondering if they r any good as i cant seem to find a review on them

thanks all

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I just cut the block(s) off and solderd 2 wires to a + on the speaker and 2 wires to a -. The block on the main fronts also power the tweeter in the door. Just need to work out +'s and -'s.

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I just cut the block(s) off and solderd 2 wires to a + on the speaker and 2 wires to a -. The block on the main fronts also power the tweeter in the door. Just need to work out +'s and -'s.

That's easy. Take a 9V battery and momentarily (very quickly) connect it on and off of the terminals. When the cone of the speaker/tweeter moves OUTWARDS, then you have the positive of the battery connected to the positive terminal of the tweeter.

Just as a little additional snippet of info, if anybody finds that the stereo image seems to have a bit of a hole in the middle of it, and the treble seems a little distant on the drivers side, try putting the drivers side tweeter out of phase (reverse the connections). This will put the tweeter 180 degrees out, and can often aim the treble more towards the drivers listening position. ;)

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