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Felicia 1.8T transplant thread


TeflonTom

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lifted the front seats out and attacked it with a vacuum cleaner inside.. i've got the impression that its probably the first time ever this car has been hoovered since leaving the factory :wonder: but there was about £5 in change in nooks and crannies of this car so all good, i've only driven this car once since buying it :-)

i quickly popped the steering column out, i've decided to convert this car to power steering now as well, originally i wasnt going to but i figure that if i dont do it now whilst it's all apart then i never will get round to it, had a quick inspection of all the floor pans and seams etc whilst i was in there and they are uncannly good for a car with had rust holes in the inner wings, the outer sills are in remarkable condition too considering... all the brake pipes are rotten up near the rear axle but that's also common on these cars but thankfully its not a difficult job to change them, i may as well fit new fuel pipes at the same time because they arent even expensive to buy new from the skoda dealer pre-formed ready to fit (something like £10 each) which is perfect for ultimate piece of mind come mot time..

i'm not really a fan of daft interiors or ghey looking steering wheels from halfords, but i have been given a pair of front seats from a high powered subaru which i'm going to graft into here... also i took great pride in stamping on the (non working) factory stereo before chucking it in the bin too.

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not very exciting this one

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wing filler plates welded on, bit out of focus this picture sorry, normally these plates are just spot welded on but i couldnt use the spot welder from the bodyshop next door because i dont have 3 phase power in my workshop :wonder: the 2 holes in the panel are there so you can align it with pins with 2 corresponding holes on the inner wing panel before its welded on.. the filler panels are about £10 each from the skoda dealer and i had to wait 3 weeks for them to come from cz, these panels are supplied as bare metal without an electro-coated surface unlike most new car panels

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scrubbed the welds clean with a wire brush and applied polyurethane seal sealer whilst the panel is still hot from welding.. sprayed some 2k primer straight over the top to prevent the panels from getting any surface rust

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i'm starting to get it all stripped in preperation for painting the engine bay, there's a lot of work to do in there such as welding patches here and there and welding up all the seams, filling and sanding etc

original 1300cc exhuast system removed and all the heatshields..

brake pipes all off.. i'd forgotten just how tricky it was to get the right hand rear brake pipe off tucked up there above the fuel tank :wonder: it's easy on the pickup but a pain to do on the hatchback :giggle: ordered a complete set of genuine brake pipes from tps, came to just over £50 for the whole set of 6 (2 front, 2 to the rear axle flex pipes, and 2 from the axle flex pipes to the rear cylinders) and they are all supplied pre-bent to shape with the ends flared ready to fit, they will be here some time in the next few days but they cant go on till its painted..

removed the windscreen lower plastic trim with the washer pipes and the wiper motor assembly, quick inspection reveals that the scuttle panel is in suprisingly good shape considering the amount of rust in other parts of the car.

removed the entire heater box assembly with its controls in readyness for the diesel heater box i've got my beady eyes on in the scrapyard (which is the car i'll also swipe the power steering hoses and steering column from too :| )

i plan to completely bin the non-working hydraulic headlight leveling system, so i'll tear that out next (if you look through the heater box hole you can see the headlight lever unit with the 2 pipes attached to it) I'm going to put a boost gauge in the there instead

battery tray has a little bit of corrosion bubbling up in the passenger side corner but thats nothing to worry about

brake servo and master cylinder removed, this is another job where i'd forgotten just how fiddly it is... ended up having to remove the pedal box and brake linkage bar to get to the mounting nuts.. plan is to replace this with the brake servo and master cylinder from an abs model felicia which is more compatible with the vw brake calipers i will be using.. strictly speaking i could get away with using the original one and i didn't need to take it out, could have just masked round it to paint the engine bay

there's only one more job to do before lifting the engine back out, i desperately need a power steering rack (the one on the diesel car in the breakers yard looks a bit dodgy and i don't want to take a chance on it) i need to chuck it on the subframe and lift it back into place to double check on a potential clearance issue with the wastegate capsule on the turbo and the power steering fluid unions... there's not much space in there to play with.. then whilst its there i'll put in the passenger side driveshaft and quickly fabricate an exhaust downpipe to fit in the remaining space

more on this thread later...

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Mini update;

Been looking at the pedal box today, I'm going to attempt to fit a mk3 golf clutch pedal to the felicia pedal box so that I can use a clutch master cylinder from a mk3 golf.. More on this subject later..

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It's going to be a bit of a ball ache fitting the clutch master cylinder from a mk3 golf..but it needs to happen!! Need to cut the pushrod attachment from the golf pedal with the little White clippy thing on the ball stud and weld that to the felicia clutch pedal, but it needs to be the same distance from the pedal pivot as it is on the golf pedal so that the pushrod has the same amount of travel to actuate the clutch slave properly... As luck would have it this intersects nicely (not) with the rear engine bay crossmember so it's choppy chop time again by the looks of it... Apologies fo my musings and drunken ramblings, I'm not even sure if anybody actually understands or follows any of this stuff.

Word out.... More on this thread in a few days.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Mini update: engine bay is now completely stripped bare, had a rare day off and got down the workshp today... Started preparing the engine bay for painting. Welded all the seams I could find and sealed them all.. The mk3 golf pedal box has not arrived yet so I've not started on the clutch hydraulics yet..

Pics to follow.. Sorry been having internet issues here.

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Mounting bracket for coolant expansion tank from a 6n2 polo in place where the airbox would normally live on a felicia, this panel cannot be bought as a spare part from vw, it comes as and integral part of of the inner wing panel so the only way to get one is to visit the scrap yard armed with a spot weld drill

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Not very interesting folks, progress has been painfully slow due to work commitments, although the engine bay is now completely ready to be painted now (not shown in pics, I appear to have lost a few pictures somehow)

Oh and I've just suddenly remembered that i need to also reattach the little plate with the chassis number stamped into it, I cut that panel off to allow the engine to fit, so I need to cut that chassis number bit off and stick it on somewhere.

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Forgot to show this..

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Took a cutting disc to the mk3 golf pedal box and chopped off the bracket that holds the clutch master cylinder.. the actual location of the master cylinder is not critical but it needs to be roughly right in relation to the the pushrod end fitting on the pedal.. ie; it needs to be the same distance from the pivot point on the pedal so that the correct amount of pushrod travel is still there to fully actuate the clutch slave.. I cut a square 'window' on the inside of this double skinned panel to allow the mounting nuts to be fitted from the inside, I've also cut off the pushrod fitting from the mk3 golf clutch pedal in readiness but I've not attached it to the felicia pedal yet. I also need to re-jig the clutch pedal return spring slightly to suit too but that can come at a later date.

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Inner wings and front crossmember with the first coat of stone chip... The first can blew up because of a blockage in the gun and went absolutely everywhere :giggle: I mean it literally exploded! Anywho it looks a bit patchy but thats just because it's drying in places, it's blue purple when it's wet and it dries black, another 2 coats went on after this picture was taken allowing it to dry overnight between each coat.

after this I removed every single plastic clip, cap nut, fittings etc from the entire engine bay, and gave is a good going over with some red scotchbrite to flat the paint back ready to be painted over, I don't appear to have taken a picture at this point :wonder:

Forgot to mention, there is a little triangular bracket each side that is attached to 2 studs on the inner wing which holds the ends of the front bumper, all 4 of these studs were either broken or couldn't be undone, so I ground the remains of them off and just drilled holes through so I can use a nut and bolt to hold the triangular brackets instead, the new triangle brackets are about £3.50 each but they are on back order at the moment.

I took the front subframe to be shot blasted back to bare metal, and to be powder coated matte black, this should be back on Friday if I'm lucky.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mini update; clutch hydraulics all sorted and working now.. It took a lot of trial and error with the positioning of the clutch master cylinder pushrod bracket on the clutch pedal, had to remove and refit the pedal box from the car about 10 times before I got it perfect which tested my patience to almost breaking point (omg there's a pun there just waiting to be exploited) pictures to follow, I'm still having few Internet issues at home so I can't upload the pics to my photo bucket page at the moment..

decided to use a brand spanking genuine vw new clutch master cylinder in the end (from a mk3 golf 16v/vr6), didn't want to take a chance on a second hand scrapyard unit because it will be major ball ache to get it out once the engine is in place, once i start putting it all back together it will be one of the very first components to go in along with the brake servo!! it was just over £120 which nearly made me cry! but i think it was worth paying a slight premium for genuine one over a factored part, a non genuine one from euro car parts or gsf is around £100 anyway and I'm sure we are all familiar with the poor quality of some of the **** they sell..

in regards to the clutch hydraulics, this is one of the most critical parts of the whole project, it's vital that it's properly engineered and reliable, there was always the option of converting it to a cable operated system on the golf gearbox using parts from a seat Ibiza 2.0 16v but I've heard stories of them being a pain in the backside, and besides I would have always regretted not doing the 'proper' job whilst I had the chance.

Pics to follow.

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basically i cut up the pedal box from a mk3 golf, stuck the bit that holds the clutch master cylinder to the front of the car, then cut the little snurgle that holds the little white clip thing for the master cylinder pushrod off the golf clutch pedal and grafted it onto the felicia pedal box (shown above), it just needs a little bit of trimming down with a cutting disc to make it nice and neat, had to make it stand off from the pedal slightly to align with the clutch master cylinder and so it makes it easier to remove the white clip from the bracket so i recycled some of the bits of metal from the golf clutch pedal.

more pics to follow.

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quick puff of paint

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all dried up after a second coat, painted the engine mounts and brake servo too and chucked them in to see what it's going to look like..

kosher, more on this thead tomorrow.

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Front suspension subframe came back from the powder coat people looking like new, cost me £40 to get it shot blasted back to bare metal and coated in a matt black

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decided to fit a new timing belt kit and water pump whilst the engine was out too, I went against my better judgement and used an aftermarket belt kit from gates auto master, these are the best kits around to be honest but I normally prefer to use genuine parts where possible but the genuine kit came to nearly 220 quid if you want the hydro springy tensioner doo dah wotsit. I did use a oem water pump though because I wanted one with the steel impeller blades rather than the nasty pattern part rubbish that the likes of gsf and euro car parts sell. I'm not going to describe the process of fitting a timing belt kit to a 20v because it's elementary stuff and it would be a waste of my time probably.. Did I mention the 'vw special bolt' the only piece of useful info I'll tell you about the tensioner is you need an m5 stud about 60mm long ish and an m5 nut to compress the damper enough to put the locking pin in.

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Starter to reassemble the car now, some of the bits in the engine bay have to go in an a defined order, the radiator, brake servo, and clutch master cylinder went in first, followed by the pedal box..

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Followed by the engine and gearbox. Next will be the wiper motor, then the brake lines, the subframe.

More on this thread later.

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right here's an update on the clutch master cylinder fitement. Somehow the memory card on my camera has got corrupted but I've managed to recover a few photos

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Not 100% sure at which stage this picture was taken but it must have been after the engine bay was painted due to the overspray seen in the steering column aperture, the hole through the firewall has since been tidied up with a die grinder to make it a bit neater and the bracket which is welded to the pedal has been trimmed a bit to make it nicer, nevertheless you get the idea from the picture... Converting to. Hydraulic clutch was the most tricky part of the whole conversion, it wasn't strictly necessary but I would have always regretted not doing it while I had the chance.

Also what can't be seen in this picture, just above the clutch pedal I used the hole where clutch cable normally goes through to engineer an adjustable pedal stop so I can fine tune the pedal heights.

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£25 for the lot which I didn't think was too bad tbh for a diesel heater box from scrapyard.

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First point to be aware of is that the front bezel in the dashboard is different, top one Is from the diesel model, bottom one is from the petrol model.. This just pops in the front without needing any tools, it just tucks in behind the ashtray

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both heater boxes shown side by side for comparison, petrol model left, diesel model right, both units are fully self contained along with the control panel and the operating cables, there's no need to separate the control panel to remove it from the car and assuming that there's no obstructions in the engine bay like a strut brace or the engine the entire unit can be removed in one piece, it's secured by 2 nuts on the front of the front firewall panel, all that's needed is a deep 11mm socket on a stick... The wiring is slightly different on the 2 units but both incorporate the whole system ( blower fan, series resistor, etc) on an internal loom, it is a simple plug and play job on these because the differences in the internal wiring is looked after inside the unit on the internal loom, the connection to the dash loom is made by a simple 3 pin plug which contains a fused switched live from the fuse box, an interior lighting feed for the illumination on the control panel, and an earth... Simple plug and play fitment!

The diesel unit is quite a lot smaller on the engine side which is exactly what I want..

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Dropped the engine down off it's mounts to give me enough room to fit the diesel heater box. Make sure you connect the wiring plug up before you push the heater box back into position! Another point worth noting at this stage is that the wiper motor must go in before the heater box, I don't know if it's 100% necessary but by the looks of it I would have been swearing a lot if I'd realised it couldn't go in after the heater box is fitted.

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As the heater box slides into position you just need to ease the control panel into the aperture in the dash to help it along a little.

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I forgot to add this one the other day

Got a new battery off the geezer in the unit next door to mine, it's an 075 which is the same as a diesel engined felicia has fitted, should give a bit more cranking power.

using the original oem skoda ecu mounting bracket and charcoal canister in their original fitted positions, also using the original windscreen washer bottle in it's stock location... There the coolant expansion tank used to live now have the barometric pressure sensor and the ignition output stage module, I chopped up a giant heatsink from an old hifi amplifier and bolted the module to it using some thermal transfer paste, the ignition module is well known for blowing up on the early 20v engines due to overheating so the giant heatsink should keep it cool.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Did I mention that the steering column doesn't fit any more? :wonder:

I've been a bit of a plonker, it used to fit when it was manual steering, but I completely omitted to remember that the power column is much bigger diameter :-( can't use the manual column because the spline on the rack is different, so I've taken the u/j apart in the hope of using the splined section from the u/j on the power column on the manual column.. Easy you says... Except I ruined the bearings getting them out and they are an oddball size. 10x15x10 cup type needle roller bearings..... I'm working on a solution :(

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when I fitted up the clutch master cylinder I was using the manual column as a pattern for clearance because at the time I didn't have a power steering rack handy, then when I pulled the pas column out of the boot of the car to fit it I had one of those real face palm moments, I knew it wouldnt fit straight away even without trying it ( I did try it just in case).. It left me with 2 options..

Option 1 was to remove the power steering rack and refit the manual one, but I don't want to do this with the heavy engine up front.

Option 2 rework the manual column and fit the u/j end from the pas one.

Option 3,is fabricate a new one from scratch using some of the oem universal joints( not a realistic option but I will if i have to!)

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