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The Mr Muscle VNT Turbo Treatment - thought we needed a guide of sorts


Lofty79

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still struggling with access for this, has any one at all done it on the 2.0 TDI BMN engine. For the life of me I can't get into the hot side of the Turbo from the top or bottom, car has all the symptoms described previously so I'm sure this will help, I just cant get into it.....

 

Any ideas??

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another happy customer but on a vRS Tdi pD. Managed to get the small brass EGR pipe off enough from underneath (still terrible access) but managed enough to get the silicone pipe in. From above its impossible. Car has power low down the Rev range again. So happy! Only thing to note as I was so blind I wasn’t 100% sure it had gone to the turbo or the engine (risky but worked) 

Thanks 

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On 30/10/2017 at 19:25, smaz92 said:

Another happy customer but on a vRS Tdi pD. Managed to get the small brass EGR pipe off enough from underneath (still terrible access) but managed enough to get the silicone pipe in. From above its impossible. Car has power low down the Rev range again. So happy! Only thing to note as I was so blind I wasn’t 100% sure it had gone to the turbo or the engine (risky but worked) 

Thanks 

Hi mate, what year and engine do you have? 

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On 18/10/2017 at 19:50, bspman said:

YMMV, but have you considering running with premium fuel and an additive? I did that to mine and it seemed to have helped a lot. 

Hi, yeah I'm running premium diesel and an additive, no change sadly. 

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  • 1 month later...
On 13/04/2017 at 11:47, Ante said:

Bump lads

No it's immediately shot out the exhaust, no risks there. 

Just read how many people have done it and not one case of problems with regurgitated Mr muscle

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Guys, 

Car: Mk11 2008 1.9TDI (BXE engine code I believe, No DPF) 

Trying to resurrect this post.. Am I the only one who had more problems after doing the treatment?? Tearing my hair out here. 

 

So I did the treatment as specified. Got good movement out of the Actuator arm. Bolted it all back together and then took it for a drive. Warmed the car up then started up a hill. Imediatly went into limp mode. Cycling the engine wouldn't clear it. Waited 20-25 mins then managed to get back home keeping the revs bellow 1500rpm. Checking the actuator when the turbo was hot, Seemed the same. Took it for another drive. Seemed sportyier and better but then limp mode again, lots of white smoke, engine would start but then often die a couple minutes later or not rev. Cycled it many times. Sometimes it would be ok, sometimes not. Eventually left it and took the train home. Essentially it's worse than it was before doing the treatment... 

 

Would repeating the cleaning process help maybe??

Does this sound like I'm having other issues? 

Anything else I should try before going to the garage? 

 

Cheers guys

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Along with a DSG oil change I did the Mr muscle (or in my case Asda oven cleaner, because cheapskate) treatment to my 59 plate BKD Octavia today.

 

It was quite a phaff, but having done it once I'm sure another attempt would be quicker and easier!

 

I found access to the turbo actuator was the worst bit, I couldn't quite figure out how to press on it effectively. Plus it was seized up pretty good, so even when I was pressing it firmly it wasn't doing much.

 

Eventually I managed to get a screwdriver onto it and push with some more force, the actuator unseized and I was able to move it full travel.

 

Once everything was back together I took it for a blast round some straight, uphill roads and giving it wide open throttle couldn't get it into limp home mode.

 

I didn't get any smoke to speak of until I really gave it some hard revs so I wonder if maybe I didn't get the oven cleaner all the way into the turbo, but the result seems pretty good so far. 

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On 27/01/2018 at 15:59, Whippet873 said:

Anybody close to Oxfordshire who wants to earn some money doing this on my 59 plate passat 2.0 diesel cbab engine 

If you can get it to Reading, I know four guys who would each take the job on... You could go shopping while they work.

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  • 3 months later...

Sorry to bump this one but its a great post. 

 

My Octavia Mk1 1.9tdi 110 has been in limp mode a couple of times but since the first time it's not been running quite the same - quite a distinct lack of power compared to before the limp happened and when you put the power down, its making a kind of 'grunt' I guess you'd call it. You can still hear the slight whistle of the turbo so I know it's still working. 

 

I've not had chance to read any codes yet but is this method likely to fix? 

Edited by Ayyarr
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It should certainly help! I did mine back in march on my 2.0 BKD, and haven't had limp mode since.

I'm not expecting it to be a permanent fix though, more something I'll need to do every now and again as part of regular servicing/maintenance.

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  • 2 months later...

For all Mk 2 Octavia 1.9 owners with limited access from on top, I've updated my post with full details of doing this job from underneath. Having gone in from above and below, there is absolutely no doubt in my mind that underneath is faster and much more effective!

 

 

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  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...
On 13/10/2012 at 12:52, Lofty79 said:

No from on top around passenger side of engine. You'll need to remove air intake pipes, and egr cooler (although i managed to do one with cooler left on. Alternatively if you take exhaust downpipe off at turbo, and get a nozzle like wd40 cans have, and use the nozzle and straw to inject Mr muscle directly into turbo, this also works a treat. Push the actuator regularly and inject mr muscle through fins at 12, 3, 6 and 9 oclock positions. Every now and then reapply and itll push dirty product out and replace it with new. And push actuater again

is it best to access from the top or bottom with a BXE engine? 

how do you expose the fins so that you can spray the Mr Muscle?

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It isn't clear if anyone has had much luck doing this with a CR engine? Not sure what the engine code is but it is a 2.0 CR170 in a 2009 Superb.

 

As far as I can see from the top there is a electronic actuator and the linkage is concealed? So does a fix neccessatate removing this actuator first? Will this need a VAG COM setup after replacement?

 

I believe this is a CBBB engine.

Edited by WesBrooks
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...found the linkage between the turbo and the block. With the battery removed I can just about touch it but not apply any force.

 

I'll try a hand held vacuum tester to see if I can get it to move with that.

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  • 5 months later...

OK, full disclosure, straight off. I am working on a Mitsubishi Outlander 57 plate, however, it does have a BSY VW Engine so should be as similar beast to those with success on here, using Mr Muscle to help with overboost problem. From what I can see it seems close to a 1.9 Mark II with the EGR at the front with a the intercooler and engine gas diverter flap at the back of the engine with solid pipe running around to the EGR at the front.

 

Prior to Mr Muscle I changed the MAP sensor, which is in the nearside wheel arch and initially though it was better, but overboost and limp mode came back days after, so think I may have imagined it was better rather than it actually being better. So thought I would try the Mr Muscle Treatment.

 

Access is a pain and did try removing the EGR pipe for access, did manage to open it enough at the bottom to allow the pipe in, but with the limited entry space was unable to really tell if the pipe was right in the turbo. No difference other than skint knuckles.

 

Have tried again, this time I have opened the hot side of the turbo by tasking off the V Clamp between the turbo and Cat. On this car access is really tight and the bolt for the V-Clamp was fitted along the top of the manifold directly under the oil feed pipe for the turbo. I accidentally removed the bolt initially and found that I  could not manage to get the clamp off or find the thread again after several hours of trying. Got a new one, tried again and totally knackered the clamp, that still stayed stuck. Ended up driving for a week with just corrosion holding the clamp on until I decided to just get a big jubilee clip and use it to secure the clamp and give up. Went under the car and the clamp was hanging loose. When splitting the parts, found the cat has a hanger using one bolt near the flexi pipe. In hindsight, probably removing this and giving it a shake would have loosened the clamp.

 

After splitting the pipes I had good access to the turbo, photo below and gave it a right good dose of Mr Muscle, even partially closing the opening back up to try and get as much in as possible. Actuator has always seemed to be free though and was moving OK as far as I can tell. followed the 2 hour process, actuating the actuator several times. Built back up and just as bad as It was.

 

Got a step by step guide from an Audi forum, can't find the link just now.

 

From that tried the car with and without the MAF plugged in, no performance difference either way, so changed it, no difference, still overboosting.

 

Have done some more checking and the car has a vacuum/solenoid block rather than a separate N75 so was limited to what i could test, however, I have taken the turbo vac line below the car and checked Vac effect on actuator. Not the most hygenic way as I was lacking a mighty vac, but sucking on the vac pipe moves the actuator no problem, using tongue on end of pipe while actuator under vacuum shows the actuator holding vac Ok. 

 

I suspect that the n75 within the vacuum block is faulty, however, am at the limit of buying parts that turn out to be OK and as the block is about £200. Would be great if someone in the Motherwell, Carluke area south of Glasgow would let me try a working one to rule it out? worth a shot.

 

Otherwise, last ditch attempt may be this manual override mod from the MKIVS Golf forum. Which is the main reason for my post. As it looks like this in addition to Mr Muscle may be a longer term cure for overboost and help to keep them moving better and provide more force to move slightly sticky vanes. it basic takes a feed from your boosted intake side, via a regulator set to your max boost pressure and shunts a pressurised feed back to the vac line for the actuator. Which should help it kick though any stickiness and hopefully in my case do the regulation work of the internal n75 valve in the vacuum block.

 

Post is here https://uk-mkivs.net/index.php?showtopic=9860

 

Any thoughts as to whether this may not be a good idea?

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I never got to the bottom of this, ended up changing car. Not sure if just never got enough cleared out or if there was something actually broken with vanes or whether a combination of things. Maybe a weakness in control system reducing movement which led to carbon build up. 

 

Anyway have ended up with Qashqai, but would probably have preferred an Octavia.

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  • 3 months later...

So today I was changing oil and filter and decided to try to clean turbo. Not that it needed cleaning, although it whistles a bit so I thought maybe it will help. Btw the engine is BKD.

 

So I took out air box and pipe that continues after MAF sensor, and had to take out the battery with casing as well. 
 

As didn't know what to look for or what to unscrew I put my phone behind the engine, just above the catalytic converter, aiming the camera below the EGR cooler (I think) and made a few pics to try and figure out how to get into the turbo. Basically, I made a picture in my head and unscrew the bolts on small pipe that goes from cooler to manifold, all by touching as couldn’t see anything. It’s very tight over there and you will have to work out where to put the socket wrench. Once you figure out how things are positioned it’s pretty easy to do it.

The bottom nuts, on manifold are 12mm socket and the top ones, on cooler are bolts triple square spline bit size 8 i think.
 

I then put a tube in the manifold and pushed it all the way to the turbo and started spraying. I had 6mm tube and it was too big so I would advise you to get smaller diameter, maybe 4mm. Someone mentioned a flexible tube from WD40 spray, that would be ideal I think. I couldn’t not spray in enough due to tube being too wide and the cleaner was leaking everywhere on side so this operation was not quite successful.

 

 

 

 

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