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The Mr Muscle VNT Turbo Treatment - thought we needed a guide of sorts


Lofty79

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My turbo on my PD140 (09 Plate) is being painful and the vacuum/actuator appears to get stuck making the car howl like a banshee.

 

There appears to be a lot in the way from above on the FL so will go from underneath.

 

Can I ask is the turbo easy to access from underneath as tbh I've never looked :)

 

Cheers

 

Nick

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I said I will post some pictures from when I did mine but I got caught up in the process and forgot about it. I think it's easier from under the car. You can see what is what and where everything goes but you have a bit of fiddling to do and the nuts are not the most accessible but it can be done. I would recommend a set of proper tools and patience for those who are doing it for the first time. Definitely worth it though. I went on a 3200 miles journey through Europe and the car went like a train all the way. From a constant limp mode home to that...is a big difference. A set of ramps from screwfix and a halfords tool box and you should be fine.

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Hi. Is there anyone in the northeast near to Middlesbrough that could help me do this? I have the mr muscle and pipe and will obviously give you a bit of cash for your troubles.

Chris

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Anyone do this lately? I,ve got A black smoke problem. Changed the intercooler and the egr but still have black smoke.wonder if this will work for me?

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Got under it yesterday and just manged to move the actuator a bit. Didn't do the mr muscle as it took a while to get some screws off from the shield and it was getting dark. Seemed to have just 1/2 travell at first. Gave it a bit of a jiggle and now seems to have full travel but still stiff. Will try again though. Took it on a hard motorway run and had no problems all the way through the red line on 2nd to 4th. Yeah, thank you very much lofty. The thread has been a life saver as two garages already recommended to change the turbo (£1050) the cheapest. Will post some pics for those who have a egr cooler and want to do it from underneath. Thanks again.

 

Did you manage any pictures for those of us with the EGR cooler?

 

Cheers

 

Nick

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi just came across this as my car loses power. Came up with fault code 17965. Its an octavia 1.9 tdi 52 plate. Should I try the mr muscle? Thanks

That is the over boost code normally associated with sticking vanes, so its worth a try.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

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Am looking into trying this out at the weekend but I notice everyone keeps mentioning issues at 3k RPM plus, my issue occurs at around 1500 RPM. Is mine more likely to be vacuum than vanes as it is at low RPM? Mine can have a huge flatspot at 1500 rpm, a very big loss of power, just as the DSG changes into a new gear.

 

Thanks

 

Chris

Edited by kissifer
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Not much, because there's no oil mist inside there to combine with the soot particles and make them adhere to the pipe walls.  The flexi/convoluted section is also potentially fragile and breakable on 'mature' cars, so if you do try to clean it, be gentle.

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I have a Skoda Octavia TDI 1.9 2006 model. It went to limp mode when I was driving steep hills or towing my A-liner, but if I switched off and started the engine again it was running normally until I went up next hill :) 

I tried to move the actuator but it was stuck..I did this Mr muscle cleaning on the vanes, I did as in pictures and after I sprayed in I let it stay for 1 hrs then started jugging the actuator (very sticky in the beginning) it came loose after few jugs.( It takes 10 lbs to overcome the load of the spring in the actuator).

I went for a drive and it is totally different to drive the car!! I have had this car for 1 year and I think that the vane have been stuck all the time since I bought it.

now I have much more power on hi revs, before it pulled from 1-3k revs but pulled less from 3k and more, now it pulls more equally from 1-5k revs, and lime mode symptom is history.

Thanks a lot fore this information!!

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It works :party: .But I just read through and I see not supposed to use it on the EGR  Why? 'Cause I just did :sweat: .I removed the EGR valve,stripped it,left it soaking in Mr Muscle for an hour,cleaned it,sprayed it with WD40,wiped it again more WD,put back the seals and the wee plastic vacuum pump,so how long have I got before it goes boom? :rofl:

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A big thankyou to the person who started this topic and to those who have added to it.

 

Today I resolved the problem that I have lived with for 7 years, initially I worked out how to live with it (ignition reboot) a lot later how to avoid it, gentle warm up from cold especially in winter, then through this forum I discovered what it was so was in no hurry to tackle it.

 

Its taken me 4 years to get around to it and wow, what a difference :beer: wish that I had done it before, the car has never driven so well in my 10 years of ownership, silky throttle response now and more grunt not that I use it a lot.

 

I have one tip to add which helped me, I couldnt move the actuator by hand, or only a tiny bit but as I could see it from above I made up a tool from a piece of 12mm copper pipe with a slot cut in the end, then I could use both hands from above and it soon freed off. I will keep it handy and if it plays up again I could probably  free it without removing anything other than the engine cover without resorting to the oven cleaner.

 

Oh and I used Lidl's caustic soda oven cleaner aerosol as I havnt seen Monsieur Musclé here in France, it worked well enough.

 

 

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I havnt read through all the pages of this topic but there appears to be lots of people troubled by the turbo cutting out on long hills Under hard load either laden or towing of a trailer that the Mr Muscle has not cured, the following may just be the solution for you.

 

I had this a decade ago in a 98 (I think) Alhambra TDI, it would happen on long hills on the French autoroutes when towing a trailer with my race car, i could reboot but it would soon go again, the longer the hill the more frequent, once it has started I could almost predict when it would happen on a certain hill and how many times, I knew nothing then about the turbo vanes but it definitely seemed heat soak related and it turned out to be exactly that.

 

The problem was the vacuum hoses to the actuators was perished and when it got hot would collapse on itself stopping them from working, a key reboot sorted it but if still labouring Under load it would quickly do so again and again.

 

I replaced all the hoses with new and the problem was 100% resolved.

 

This might bring some hope to those suffering the above that Mr Muscle hasnt cured and who are facing a turbo replacement.

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got a BKP 2.0l tdi going limp but from virtually cold.

within a few miles.

take it easy accelerate up hill but did do it downhill aswell,then pop into limp mode

got the p0234 charge pressure control regulating limit surpassed

 

hope to try the mm tomorrow

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Hi,

 

I am about to try this but just need confirmation of one thing before I do, In the OP it says to put the silicone tube into the exhaust side of the erg manifold, can someone please clarify what is meant by the "exhaust side"? 

 

Thanks

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I tried this treatment last weekend on my 2.0 BKD engine. With the egr cooler in place it is horribly inaccessible but just about do-able if you don't like the skin on your knuckles!

Anyway a big thanks to Lofty as it has worked for me, no more limp mode and a 410 mile round trip to Sheffield and back yesterday was excellent.

My car feels so much more responsive too, to the point where I'm feeling a minor slip in accelerating off spiritedly in low gear, which wasn't evident before. I'm hoping it is because the turbo is doing its thing better and not a coincident beginnings of a clutch slip....

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post-106864-0-32640900-1405340065_thumb.jpgI also am thankful to Lofty, however I did it with a few variations:

 

The oven cleaner, Dr Magic, came from B&M stores for 99p (same stuff).

 

Fitted a more convenient aerosol nozzle that I had in my garage (always save these!).

 

Used 1/4" pvc pipe which is a bit stiffer than the silicon, length of travel into turbo was just over 8 inches.

 

Like J.R. in post 342 , I used a 24" piece of aluminium tube, flattened and slotted, to pump the actuator arm down to its stop (its return spring is quite strong). Dowel would also be ok.

 

Initially I had to give the tube a light tap to move the arm from its seized position. 

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Hi everyone

I'm immy from west yorks now don't all jump on me I dnt have a skoda I'm running honda civic ctdi 1.7 2005. The car has 150k and been suffering from the limp home mode under load for the past 12k or so. No eml no error codes no vacuum leak. To cut a long story short I've pulled my hair out trying to find a fix without replacing the turbo and various sensors as suggested by many mechanics.

Hats off to Lofty, high five pal followed your instructions only difference is my turbo is in a different place. Variable vane Garrett piece anyhow it's worked and I am so loving my car now thank you so much :) :)

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