The Mr Muscle VNT Turbo Treatment - thought we needed a guide of sorts

[buckrogers21stc]

5mm. Crimped one end lightly with pliers and it fits perfectly over the straw of the tin after the spray cap is removed.

[iandb]

I have a 2008 Octavia vRS CR 170 CEGA, okay, so I am getting the P0299 fault (read by local independant) I have not had codes read by VAG COM. My local dealer replaced the MAP sensor, couldn't find anything else and recommended changing the turbo (£1,050!!).

 

The car is going into limp under varying load, but usually in 2-3k revs under load (up hill etc). I have tried the 'italian tune' but to no avail and it is coming on more often (limp mode, flashing coil light)

 

I have not noticed any increased noise / chatter / mechanical rattle from the turbo and when it does boost it goes like a train!

 

The turbo comes in later than it used to, probably starting to boost around 2-2.5k and really going from 3k.

 

I want to try the Mr Muscle tecnhnique Lofty has introduced, but when looking at my engine my entrance to the turbo appears to be underneath, see a link to the photo showing the EGR pipe grey I think?

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/images/octavia-mk2-9832.png (picture thanks to workshop manuals.com, such a useful resource!)

My own picture of the above is hopefully attached later...

 

So how would I go about getting the Mr Muscle to stay in here? and is it even the right location?

 

Also the actuator on this model is pretty awkward to get to I think, I can get my finger to the bolt end of the actuator, but to be able to work it and hopefully loosen, I think it requires pulling and I am going to struggle without removing the actuator itself, which I'd like to avoid if possible, any useful tips?

 

Any guidance on this engine would be great!

 

I've attached two photo's one of the bottom of the turbo, viewed from underneath the car,

 

and another photo of the pipe I think will be the access point to exhaust side of the turbo.

 

Many thanks in advance,

 

Ian

[mackster881]

Hi everyone I'm about to try this on my 2001 reg mine goes into limp mode nearly everyday but it also whistles a lot will this cut down on the whistling ?

[fasdone]

Hi,

My car went to limp mode few days ago its octavia 1.9tdi 105bhp with BKC engine.

Power came back once of twice and then again limp mode .

Will Lofty79's procedure help and does anyone know how to do this on BKC engine.

Many Thanks

Edited 8 April, 2015 by fasdone

[Dread1977]

Ill pose this question once again for those that may have missed it previously... has anyone done this on a PD170 engine? with EGR cooler still in place? if so do we have any sort of guide/how to??

[mackster881]

Hi all just to let everyone know I did this on my y reg Octavia today and it's worked very well my actuator must had seized up cos it took a good few whacks with a hammer to free it

[Guadette]

I'd like to try this treatment as I think it might be my problem. Having read all the posts I can't find anyone who's done it on my engine. It's a 1.9 TDI AXR. As it has a EgR cooler I'm guessing the best access to the turbo is from below. Below is a diagram of my turbo layout.

My question is which hole do I put the tube in for the Mr Muscle. Is it number 13 or 14? Any help would be much appreciated.

[Spaced99]

I'd like to try this treatment as I think it might be my problem. Having read all the posts I can't find anyone who's done it on my engine. It's a 1.9 TDI AXR. As it has a EgR cooler I'm guessing the best access to the turbo is from below. Below is a diagram of my turbo layout.

My question is which hole do I put the tube in for the Mr Muscle. Is it number 13 or 14? Any help would be much appreciated.

13/14 are the intake/compressor side of the turbo, Mr Muscle goes in the exhaust side.

[Guadette]

Many thanks for the reply. So I guess the Mr Muscle goes in where pipe 27 connects to the turbo as this is the connecting tube to the radiator for exhaust gas recirculation. Or is it 24 the exhaust pipe. I just want to double check before we go ahead and try it. many thanks again Spaced99.

[Spaced99]

Many thanks for the reply. So I guess the Mr Muscle goes in where pipe 27 connects to the turbo as this is the connecting tube to the radiator for exhaust gas recirculation. Or is it 24 the exhaust pipe. I just want to double check before we go ahead and try it. many thanks again Spaced99.

Put it through the egr line it's easier to get to.

[Guadette]

Cheers I'd looked back at Loftys picture and realised where to put it. The thread is so long by the time I got to the end I'd forgotten to look at the original post. Will try this at the weekend and will post the results. Thanks again

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[johnny cabbage head]

Hi Guys just for information - I did the Mr Muscle manouvre on my BXE engined octavia 1.9 pd tdi - it went into limp a few times - getting worse so I tried to access from top (egr vv) after pulling all the vac hoses off I still would have been quicker training a mouse to undo bolts - couldnt even see them - so went from underneath engine and removed front exhaist pipe and fed tube into turbo.

 

Result  1st time it was better but still went into limp again - 2nd attempt it went into limp initially - then I thrashed the a*se off it on a big hill 110 mph and still climbing- foot to the floor. It seems to be a different car now - no longer whistling from Turbo. I had to thin out though as I attracted the attention of a cop car on opposite carriage way so I only booted it hard once up hill.

Subsequent short journeys have produced so much more boost its amazing.

If I do have to do it a third time - will post again , but hope this has cracked it.

Many thanks to LOFTY and the rest of the crew. BRAVO ZULU chaps :clap: :clap: :clap:

[fasdone]

Hi Guys just for information - I did the Mr Muscle manouvre on my BXE engined octavia 1.9 pd tdi - it went into limp a few times - getting worse so I tried to access from top (egr vv) after pulling all the vac hoses off I still would have been quicker training a mouse to undo bolts - couldnt even see them - so went from underneath engine and removed front exhaist pipe and fed tube into turbo.

 

Result  1st time it was better but still went into limp again - 2nd attempt it went into limp initially - then I thrashed the a*se off it on a big hill 110 mph and still climbing- foot to the floor. It seems to be a different car now - no longer whistling from Turbo. I had to thin out though as I attracted the attention of a cop car on opposite carriage way so I only booted it hard once up hill.

Subsequent short journeys have produced so much more boost its amazing.

If I do have to do it a third time - will post again , but hope this has cracked it.

Many thanks to LOFTY and the rest of the crew. BRAVO ZULU chaps :clap: :clap: :clap:

Congratulations Johnny, I have the same engine BKC (BXE), and having Limp mode engine light is on with " Emissions Workshop " error message. I am a newbie I have shown my car to couple of garages and they said my turbo is gone new turbo needed which i am not agree with so want to give this process a try.

Can you please give me some directions on how to do it from the top that will be very helpful.

Thanks

[johnny cabbage head]

Congratulations Johnny, I have the same engine BKC (BXE), and having Limp mode engine light is on with " Emissions Workshop " error message. I am a newbie I have shown my car to couple of garages and they said my turbo is gone new turbo needed which i am not agree with so want to give this process a try.

Can you please give me some directions on how to do it from the top that will be very helpful.

Thanks

Hi Fasdone - I got at my turbo from underneath the car as access from the top was right down the back of the bulkhead (1.9 TDI PD ENGINE 2007 OCTAVIA ELEGANCE ESTATE BXE ENGINED MODEL)

 

I jacked up car and secured with axel stands- removed under tray from below engine,11 screws. undo two bolts on sleeve piece of exhaust connecting mid section with Cat and front pipe. (this simply loosens then slides to one side freeing front pipe - leaven the rest in situ.

 

undo the two bolts securing front  exhaust pipe to the rear of gearbox.

 

look up to the back of engine from below and you will see one bracing arm attached to front exhaust pipe - remove and then you will see, all thats left is one more bolt (allen head ) its the bottom end of the Turbo and the C clamp that holds the exhaust onto the Turbo.

Its held by one allen bolt .

Undo this but not all the way- keep feeling above the clamp so you know how much thread you have left to loosen - reason being that if you get too medieval with it -it could break/ and a small inner metal ring like a gasket will probably drop out- but again is re useable

 

What usually happens is it becomes welded with the heat from exhaust. Dont let this put you off though as a piece of wood and a few taps with a hammer on the collar usually pops it loose.

 

If you still find it welded- try gently pulling open the C clamp fastener and you will see the edges of the actual clamp ( like two C's joined together and held by the outer clamp) eg  ( )

 

Get a flat screwdriver and gently tap at the edge of one of C pieces and it will loosen it off by "shocking " with the taps rather than battering it. that way you can re use clamp assembly again.

 

Once it drops off (front exhaust pipe) get your Mr Muscle tin with the plastic tubing attached and gently feed it into the  now exposed Exhaust side of turbo. I fed mine into the turbo and tried to very gently wedge it itno the trubo vanes as the tubing I used was very soft aquarium tube ( from pets at home)

I used a piece of old clean damp rag to bung in around the inserted tube to hold it in place and force the expanding oven foam through the vanes into the back of the exhaust part of turbo where the crudd coated   Actuator vanes are.

 

Its suprising how much it expands as it actually pushed the rag out a few times- but you know it will penetrate further into the turbo if you bung it up this way.

 

 I did mine twice as 1st time I didnt  free off  the Actuator arm on the side of the Turbo  enough (attached to a vaccum device)

 

Second time I used a claw hammer from below and pulled the actuator up and down using the claw side of hammer as a kind of hook  over 100 times after dosing with the foam. to make sure I had loosened all the carbon.

 

I put it back together and went for a spin warming through steady- then as I tried to boot it up a masive Hill - a car sauntered itno the fast lane in front of me like miss daisy and I had to hold back - and LIMP MODE again! I reset in lay by (engine off and back on) and on second attempt had a clear run and opened it up foot to the floor- no limp mode this time and the engine felt like a scud missile in comparison to pre - mr muscle treatment.

My turbo no longer whistles as I drive gently down my street from home (previously very Audible) and it feels as good as it did when I got it remapped a few yrs ago - simply hoofing.

 

Hope this helps you and anyone else doing a BXE  engined 1.9 pd TDI octavia

 

Best Regards Johnny

[Lofty79]

Ill pose this question once again for those that may have missed it previously... has anyone done this on a PD170 engine? with EGR cooler still in place? if so do we have any sort of guide/how to??

I have yes, its mentioned in the thread, it takes dexterity and patience but the small egr pipe under it did come off and i was able to replace with ease. 

uno both ends of the egr pipe, and wiggle and swear and have a cuppa, kick the cat and return itll behave after that

[iandb]

I have a 2008 Octavia vRS CR 170 CEGA, okay, so I am getting the P0299 fault (read by local independant) I have not had codes read by VAG COM. My local dealer replaced the MAP sensor, couldn't find anything else and recommended changing the turbo (£1,050!!).

 

The car is going into limp under varying load, but usually in 2-3k revs under load (up hill etc). I have tried the 'italian tune' but to no avail and it is coming on more often (limp mode, flashing coil light)

 

I have not noticed any increased noise / chatter / mechanical rattle from the turbo and when it does boost it goes like a train!

 

The turbo comes in later than it used to, probably starting to boost around 2-2.5k and really going from 3k.

 

I want to try the Mr Muscle tecnhnique Lofty has introduced, but when looking at my engine my entrance to the turbo appears to be underneath, see a link to the photo showing the EGR pipe grey I think?

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/images/octavia-mk2-9832.png (picture thanks to workshop manuals.com, such a useful resource!)

My own picture of the above is hopefully attached later...

 

So how would I go about getting the Mr Muscle to stay in here? and is it even the right location?

 

Also the actuator on this model is pretty awkward to get to I think, I can get my finger to the bolt end of the actuator, but to be able to work it and hopefully loosen, I think it requires pulling and I am going to struggle without removing the actuator itself, which I'd like to avoid if possible, any useful tips?

 

Any guidance on this engine would be great!

 

I've attached two photo's one of the bottom of the turbo, viewed from underneath the car,DSC_0612.jpg

 

and another photo of the pipe I think will be the access point to exhaust side of the turbo.DSC_0622.jpg

 

Many thanks in advance,

 

Ian

This ended up being the actuator on mine, as I was taking off a pipe to access the side of the turbo, (where the actuator moves the vane rod up and down) to try and 'work' the actuator and see if it was 'sticky'. This because I couldn't reach from below, no matter how hard I tried. I had also been reading about the possibility it was the actuator, tested with a vacuum gauge, it didn't appear to holding a vacuum. Ordered a replacement actuator kit (£115) and when removed, sure enough vanes moving freely, but actuator shot. So saved on the turbo, but never did the Mr Muscle special!

Excellent tuition on its removal here: -

Thanks,

 

Ian

[Dread1977]

I have yes, its mentioned in the thread, it takes dexterity and patience but the small egr pipe under it did come off and i was able to replace with ease. 

uno both ends of the egr pipe, and wiggle and swear and have a cuppa, kick the cat and return itll behave after that

Hi Lofty,

 

Can you point me to what number in the thread it is? Im considering asking a mechanic mate to have a look at doing this for me anyway but want to be sure of what information I give him before he attempts it..

[jonhendrix]

I have a 2010 skoda superb tdi 170 going into limp mode garage reckons its under boosting seems to happen at low revs and small hills turbo does occasionally kick in but seems later now more like 2.5k to 3k have tried some EGR cleaner didn't do anything the garage have replaced the N75 solenoid but the limp mode is still kicking in, wondering if the Mr Muscle will help but no idea how to do it, I think the garage may be thinking new turbo but can't afford that anyone in the Stoke/south Cheshire area who could help out for cash?

[Bendover07]

Just done this on my wifes 08 Golf 1.9 tdi it works brilliantly

Done it from underneath though straight into exhaust side of the turbo

I used the nozzle and straw from a can of wd40 to get the oven cleaner in

Left it 1 hour kept pumping the actuator rod every 10 mins now the car runs perfect no limp mode

No choo choo from the exhaust,engine quieter and smooth power delivery

Thanks very much

[Chef RIck]

Hi all,

My friend helped me with the Mr muscle trick today.

We went from the underside and sprayed Mr muscle straight in to turbo

Actuator went from not moving at all to moving around 10mm.

After warming engine up and taking it for a spin, dropped into second and had max revs, lots of smoke came out and seemed to sort it.

On the way back, had an overboost code come up again, but now reset.

Turbo feels more responsive and smoother than it has for a long time

The only issue is that it has a distinct whistle while accelerating

I don't know whether this is because it is clean or whether there is an air leak somewhere.

All bolts were done up super tight and I don't see how it can be a leak.

Any info on this would be gratefully received

Cheers

[johnny cabbage head]

After my recent post of my Mr Muscle treatment - I have to report that the car is going into limp mode again on big hills    and although the difference in performance is astonishing - I suspect I either have a faulty actuator - or there is still a residual amount of carbon wedged in the turbo stopping it from full travel. this will  be the third mr muscle treatment I will have done - though I am acessing it from the exhaust side of turbo and maybe its just not quite reaching the area where the accumulation of carbon still sits- bearing in minfd the foam has to seep through the vanes of the turbo to get to the very back of the exhaust side of Turbo.

I will try a suction test on Vacc pipe to actuator - and if thats holding OK I will go for the third Mr Muscle treatment. will post the result on here once I have carried out further investigation.

[Chef RIck]

johnny cabbage head, you have the same  model and issues as me

i am doing second mr muscle clean at weekend.

how much / freely is your actuator moving at the minute? 

mine is only around 8mm, but going to give it a hammering this time

[johnny cabbage head]

Hi Rick  I just  gave mine its 3rd mr muscle treatment - I cant actually measure the actuator movement as its up above me on the blind side of the turbo , as I am accessing it from below again. I put a rubber glove over turbo exhaust side and made a tiny hole in it to feed pipe through into turbo so as to force the  foam deep into turbo. I also lubricated lever mechanism on the outside with GT spray as I figured it may be sticking due to slight corrosion on actuator plunger - though cant see it clearly as too much in the way. -I actuated it manually about 200 times and it did feel better again. I put it back together and warmed up engine then went for a spin- initially it was pulling ok though slight hesitation - then  up to 85mph and pulling away - but had to slow down as other car in front  on carriageway.

I dropped back on the hill and booted it again to catch up - LIMP mode AGAIN AAAGH !!!   I am running out of options  now . I dont have a vacc pump but tried it with a big syring attached to actuator vaccum and nothing moved - I tried sucking it and nothing moved. I tried blowing it and nothing moved - but it moved ok when I hooked it with a claw hammer and pumped it up and down - though slightly sticky going back after releasing the plunger- so I gave it more mr muscle and more GT spray externally and pumped again. Does anyone know whether the plunger arm should move by mere suction on a tube by mouth ?? or is it more vaccum needed than a mouth can produce ??   any hints welcome guys as I said Im running out of ideas now. faulty actuator maybe ??

[softscoop]

Are you sure you don't have any kind of boost leak?

[johnny cabbage head]

Are you sure you don't have any kind of boost leak?

Hi I am thinking that its possibly linked to a leak somewhere as after the 3rd mr muscle treatment the car didnt seem as responsive as after the 2nd mr muscle treatment which made a huge difference in performance. I figured I may have not completely cleared the carbon so went for a thrid clean..... but need to look at  hoses etc -I did remove some induction hoses and  intercooler pipes -maybe one is not completely home again after refitting yesterday. I need to check around