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Lofty79

The Mr Muscle VNT Turbo Treatment - thought we needed a guide of sorts

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TurboTurbot    2

Did the treatment on Saturday and it worked a treat! This time used special hose clip pliers to remove air hosed for better access - they helped. Also using 4mm tubing from B&Q (2m of) - no faff or mess. Left the MM in for 3 hours (whilst periodically shuggling the actuator using a very long screwdriver (much easier than a thumb!). At  2 hours, put pipework back, so last hour was with engine ready to go. Car fired up quite normal, gave it a minute of idle, then up to 2k for a bit incase that would clean the muck out. Then off for a drive - all normal eccept now no chuffing or noises. Went into some hills giving it welly - up to 4k no problem at all: smooth and quiet. On a longer trip, everything was as it should be again. This treatment really works.

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Remus77    0

I'm going to give this a go on my 55 Plate Octy 1.9 TDi 4x4 with the BXE engine.

At low revs the engine is a little jerky, stalling a little between 1k and 1.5k rpm. Fine through the rev range, but not massively responsive, until you push it hard and at 4k it's kangarooing a fair bit. I can creep up to 100mph (not that I would, cos that would be illegal), but very slowly accelerating like I'm not getting much help from the turbo the at around 80mph+ it's a quite jerky. No engine light or fault codes on.

 

I've got quite a bit of 4mm silicon vacuum hose left from a previous tdi repair so might replace the lines just to rule that out. I've already put in a new air filter and MAF sensor.

 

I'll also be taking the EGR off properly and cleaning that out. I only managed to get part of it off (throttle body?) and cleaned that, as can't find all my tools to get at the pesky lower bolt on the EGR valve. Cleaned this a little with degreaser and a toothbrush with the hose off whilst on the car, giving it a few revs with the hose off to clear any debris which might have been sitting in the pipe.

 

Anyone got other recommendations of things to try/check? have I covered most bases there?

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trundlenut    2,570

I'm going to give this a go on my 55 Plate Octy 1.9 TDi 4x4 with the BXE engine.

At low revs the engine is a little jerky, stalling a little between 1k and 1.5k rpm. Fine through the rev range, but not massively responsive, until you push it hard and at 4k it's kangarooing a fair bit. I can creep up to 100mph (not that I would, cos that would be illegal), but very slowly accelerating like I'm not getting much help from the turbo the at around 80mph+ it's a quite jerky. No engine light or fault codes on.

I've got quite a bit of 4mm silicon vacuum hose left from a previous tdi repair so might replace the lines just to rule that out. I've already put in a new air filter and MAF sensor.

I'll also be taking the EGR off properly and cleaning that out. I only managed to get part of it off (throttle body?) and cleaned that, as can't find all my tools to get at the pesky lower bolt on the EGR valve. Cleaned this a little with degreaser and a toothbrush with the hose off whilst on the car, giving it a few revs with the hose off to clear any debris which might have been sitting in the pipe.

Anyone got other recommendations of things to try/check? have I covered most bases there?

Fault code scan?

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

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Remus77    0

Hi,

I don't have any fault codes.

Things have changed a little, started getting a lumpy idle when starting from cold. Then driving it yesterday it's become very jerky in mid range.

Been out again this morning and it seems back to how it was before.

I'm just off to the shops to get Mr muscle and a couple of tools, I'm hoping getting the egr valve and turbo cleaned out might help.

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Remus77    0

Cleaned the egr properly now, was completely stuck with crud. Car feels much better, but still will clean the turbo. So much carbon build up, I don't think the old boy I bought the car from pushed it hard enough to keep it clear.

Is the turbo easiest to access from above or underneath on the bxe? I've still got the under tray and sump guard on and not had it on the ramps yet.

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arthurd123    5

Anyone in Berkshire or surrounding counties that would be able to do this for me on my BKD engine? I will obviously pay for the work done.

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whats my 1.6td superb engine type/code? do i have a VGT?

 

on my mondeo i drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold to facilitate easy Mr Muscle injecting

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pb2k    1

Going to try this tomorrow on my Octavia.

Anybody done this in Norfolk who might be around to give a hand if things go wrong?!

 

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Remus77    0

Found my main issues was actually some air/crud in the fuel filter. Gave the car a full service, Oil air and fuel filter change, and found the fuel filter seal wasn't seated correctly, so some air might have been getting in. Filter was a very tired looking black mess.

Now it's all running pretty well, but still think I could do with cleaning the Turbo, just seems rather difficult to get to it. I've got the BKC 1.9 TDi 105bhp engine. I also discovered that the metal sump guard on the 4x4 is heavier than it looks when it falls on your face. Difficult to get to this turbo from on top or underneath to reach anything without removing all kinds of stuff. Anyone got experience of this engine on an Octy and know the easiest route to get a tube into the turbo and reach the actuator?

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octyal    193

Did this on a mates A4 last Friday - removed the EGR pipe from the EGR valve and the turbo (EGR was blocked solid - it has done 220k!) and sent the MM down - 30 mins later and the actuator was moving freely. Usual symptoms, loss of power, limp mode etc before hand - after no problem at all, revving nicely and power restored (well, as much as you can get from an AFN engined A4 - felt flat as a pancake to me, but I am used to the vRS :) )

 

The top off the WD40 magic straw cans works a treat on the MM cans as well, perfect fit, and if the pipe you are using is a little bit too big, it's easy to seal it to the straw.

Edited by octyal

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TurboTurbot    2

Another update:

My VNT seems to get clogged about every 4 months now and I think it is time for a more permanent solution, i.e. recondition or fit a new one. Any suggestions here? Is it the case that the treatment gradually gets overtaken by carbon deposit build-up? Would it be best to re-con or after-market (reputable ebay) replace?

Thanks.

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trundlenut    2,570

Another update:

My VNT seems to get clogged about every 4 months now and I think it is time for a more permanent solution, i.e. recondition or fit a new one. Any suggestions here? Is it the case that the treatment gradually gets overtaken by carbon deposit build-up? Would it be best to re-con or after-market (reputable ebay) replace?

Thanks.

Just drive it like you stole it.

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sparky2    32

You could fit an oil catch can to the engine breather to stop the oil reaching the egr and intake manifold. Cheers Stuart

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eddrok72    1

2.0L BKD 140bhp suffereing limp mode, low power, reduced MPG and dead spots on the throttle.

 

Been looking at this treatment for a while after trying additives to little effect but kept on delaying it through fear of the unknown. Anyway yesterday i did it!

 

Toughest part was access what with the turbo being at the back of the engine and also with my engine having the egr cooler positioned above the turbo this also did not help with access from above so ended up doing it mostly from below. There isnt a lot of room below either but it was quite easily doable even with my popeye arms.

 

Dont forget to soak in wd40 for at least 20mins beforehand.

 

Undone the pipe that goes from the egr cooler to the turbo manifold, leaving one of the allen key bolts in loosely where the pipe connects to the cooler, this gives you plenty of movement in the pipe to get access. The aquarium tubing was then easily fed through to the turbo by poking it to the right (drivers side).

 

Sprayed in the mr muscle,left in for an hour and a half playing with the ever loosening actuator as much as i could, pipes back on, start up and idle till warm the went for a blast....

 

Now i cant get it into limp mode, feels smoother, a bit quicker and the fuel economy has gone up. I can now enjoy driving my car again :)

 

OH AND BY THE WAY MY LOCAL VW/AUDI SPECIALIST RUN A DIAGNOSTICS LAST WEEK AND TOLD MY TURBO WAS KNACKERED AND I SHOULD GET A RECON AT £800!!

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slaturbo    1

I did this today and can confirm it works really well. My car had been going in to safe mode after 3k so checked the actuator and could barely push it at all. Left the mr muscle soak for 2 hours while pushing the actuator every 15mins and it's totally free'd up with a smooth 2 to 3 cm of travel now and no more boost or safe mode problems. Great guide thank you

Edited by slaturbo

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Ron35    0

Hi, after reading this I'd really like to try this on mine. I have a ford galaxy mk3 2.0 tdci 140 59 plate but access seems very limited. Ive recently been getting p2263 error code and it going into limp mode. Can anyone give me directions on where I can put the pipe from the mr muscle cleaner so it reaches the turbo please? I've recently placed an egr blocking plate on the egr pipe at the 2'oclock location on the engine as you look at it. Can I remove the plate and place the cleaner down there? Or is it somewhere else?

Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks

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Bayard    0

Another happy customer of the Mr Muscle process and thanks to Lofty for sharing the knowledge. I took the car out for a test run and to warm it up before redlining it and it is a transformed beast.
Mind you, actually getting the EGR pipe off was a right ******.  The nuts on the manifold end were seized solid and someone had obviously tried in the past to take them off as they had lost those annoying corners that detract from the aesthetically pleasing round shape. I had to carefully grind them with a mini grinder whilst trying not to damage the studs, then chisel off the remains. It took hours. The allen bolts that held the EGR end on were also very stiff, but I found that shortening the short arm of an allen key meant that I could get more force on them without them trying to twist out of the head of the bolt. If you can get the rear one off, it is possible to get a thinned down and shortened allen key into the "unget-atable" allen bolt that holds the EGR on and remove EGR and pipe together. Taking off the EGR also has the advantage that it gives you an opportunity to clean all the clag out of that, too.

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Bayard    0

BTW, how much travel should there be on the actuator?  I ended up with about 10mm, but I see that some contributers have said that they got more than 20mm.  The actuator was definitely going all the way down, but there wasn't such a definite stop when I tried pulling it up.

Edited by Bayard

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billpierce    1

i did the mr muscle trick to my 05 Octavia 105 pd. getting that egr off is near impossible so i went of exhaust off which is just 1 allen key to take clamp and one bolt for exhaust strut. filled with mr muscle, my actuator was seized solid, got it freed up (very very very hard to get moving) worked it good for a couple hours, didn't feel sandy or anything as soon as it was free, it moved well.

 

reassembled, bit smokey but nothing major, no noticeable difference in driving at all, still like driving a non turbo car. but the actuator had seized up again. left it to soak in Mr muscle over night and freed it up again, after car started not too much smoke, after 2 mins of running engine actuator seized up again.

 

is it actuator knackered? or is it just not adjusted right? turbo felt good (had both sides off, span well, no play, felt clean.)

 

so the symptoms on my car are - error p0102  - inlet temp too hot/cold (i think, i lost the paper that i wrote it on.) it s drives 95% of the time like an sdi, not sure if this is limp mode? apparently been like this for 2 years. the previous owners (reliable trustworthy friends) has changed the turbo and after it stopped working the second time they just gave up as car was ok to drive just not amazing. occasionally the turbo works again, but not reliably after ignition cycle...

 

any advice would be great, disconnecting maf made no difference and egr valve is clean.

 

friendly garage says turbo off new cartridge in £250 (mates rates), but i am not 100% as if sticking viens is the only fault i thinkignition cycle should temporarily cure it?

 

thanks alot

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Pudq1    3

take a look at my thread - 

I am having the same problem and am in need of help!!

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Ante    0
Posted (edited)

Hy lads.

 

I have problems with my mk4 1.9TDI 130pd (ASZ). Very low boost @ low rpm, but not always. I changed my n75, map, maf, actuator is ok. One turbo guy checked my actuator and told me that it's ok, but the vanes are sticky, because it does not release the actuator rod as fast as it should. 

 

So i decided to do mr muscolo, but my concerns are next:

- if i spray that s*it in my turbo from the egr side, and i put it all together, i think that the egr would return that mr muscolo foam back to my angine, "Exhaust gas recirculation".

 

What do you think?

Edited by Ante

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Ante    0
18 hours ago, Ante said:

Hy lads.

 

I have problems with my mk4 1.9TDI 130pd (ASZ). Very low boost @ low rpm, but not always. I changed my n75, map, maf, actuator is ok. One turbo guy checked my actuator and told me that it's ok, but the vanes are sticky, because it does not release the actuator rod as fast as it should. 

 

So i decided to do mr muscolo, but my concerns are next:

- if i spray that s*it in my turbo from the egr side, and i put it all together, i think that the egr would return that mr muscolo foam back to my angine, "Exhaust gas recirculation".

 

What do you think?

Bump lads

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Crozzer    0

Has anyone done this to the 2.0 TDi RS engine in the Octavia? Ive got the 2008 model and for the life of me I cant work out where to insert the hose?? I’ve removed the hose coming from the air box to get more room to work but I still cant work out the next step!?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Crozzer

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