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The Mr Muscle VNT Turbo Treatment - thought we needed a guide of sorts


Lofty79

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Sorry for all the posts, just want to get it right and my engine looks a bit different to the pics.

So this is the actuator? It has a metal rod coming from the bottom that turns the part I want to end up moving freely when I am done:

IMG-20130308-00085_zps72585d19.jpg

This is the exhaust side of the turbo. The only way I can see to get in is to undo that clip that looks a bit like a giant jubilee clip. I am guessing that big metal pipe will pull off then and I can Mr muscle in there...

IMG-20130308-00084_zps3702c714.jpg

I Understand that my questions might frustrate the more mechanically minded but I want to learn. Gone are the days I could whip out a Haynes manual and do most anything. These newer cars are a bit of a mystery to me....

Will the above work without killing me or my car?

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Right i know the engine, i did this treatment on a passat set up similarly. Egr on front of engine, pipe goes to right and around the back to the cooler. Underneath the cooler is a small version of the pipe in these photos, but it is attached in the same way, 2 bolts (allan or multi) to cooler, and 2 nuts to manifold. I removed the induction stuff to air box and cleared my way in, a bit touchy feely but nothing majorly different about the job.

One point to note - make sure it goes down and slightly biased to the drivers side as it enters the hole with the pipe as its slightly off centre with these, and it could go left (although not easily) into a cylinder. Not hard just appropriate care needed. A slight curve in the pipe would help

if you look at this picture in this ad you will see what i mean, pipe has to go to right so if pipe has a curve post it in pointing that way. or curve it a little

http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_1662wt_1039

and heres a view of the wee egr cooler pipe youll be removing:

http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_3137wt_1273

Sorry guys. This is the one I need. I obviously need to remove the induction parts to find what I'm looking for.......

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Just to chime in and take up another box in the thread...

Another satisfied customer here. 145k on my clock and the last year or so has been slow, with fear of overtaking. Mechanic tried all he knew and said only thing left to do was new turbo. But I saw this thread and got him to try it out and the car goes like a goodun again. I had thought it was a lost cause. The only reason I didn't get rid was because no one would have bought it. Now I want to keep it again.

Hats off to Lofty. Cheers!

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Gone out, got cold, given up. No stands or anything better than the jack in the boot to try find the exhaust way in. Arms scratched to bits trying to squeeze them in feeling for pipework. Actuator moves about 1/2 to 1cm at best.

If I pull out all the ducting and pipework, I reckon I can get to a pipe that may be what I'm after, otherwise I am calling it a day on this one.

IMG_00000098_zps3897bb2d.jpg

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If you have been suffering limp mode when engine is under load, and if the car seems not quite as powerful this could help/solve the problem

ok here goes. Engine must have cooled before trying this as mr muscle is flammable and its easy to get scalded by a hot turbo

mr muscle and a good 2 metres of silicone hose small enough to fit over end of spray part of tin (once you have removed the nozzle and just have the plastic outlet sticking straight up) I used an elbow to make life easier as i can just press it, but most can squeeze it with needle nose pliers and push it in to squirt the product down the tube

turbo2.jpg

Now this is the egr valve, will be in a similar but not the same place on yours but principly it will match. Underneath on the bottom of this item there is a metal pipe coming down, held on by 2 alan bolts - undo these.

turbo.jpg

On the next pic i have shoved the camera down the back of the engine and have the other end of that pipe to the egr - here it is bolted to the mannifould (circled yellow) undo these nuts, they are tricky and quite stiff but will move

imagining these are undone you can remove the pipe completely. Now the yellow line signifies where the pipe needs to go if you could see through the turbo- make sure it goes down and not into a cylinder - its hard to get wrong but show care.

once silicone pipe is passed down into turbo until it cant go no further attach the mr muscle (well shaken) and scoosh it in until product comes up out of the hole (where the yellow circle is again) it doesnt take too much to do this. Once it appears whip out the silicone hose.

Circled red is the actuater linkage and this is connected to what causes the problems, pump it up and down (itll be hard on the thumb but persevere) it will free off and get really smooth - do this regularly over a 2hr period.

turbo1.jpg

REATTACH EGR PIPE

then go for a run gently at first than when warm you must go to rev limit in second is best - she will dump all the guff and smoke and hopefully be sorted.

Caution the engine must be at least sitting cool for a couple hours as mr muscle is flamable, and you can get badly burned by turbo/mannifould

Just to clarify its the EGR pipe to turbo i would remove and then spray down via tube ?

And is there anything i can srpray or put on actuator to help prevent stiffening

Edited by DSS199
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remove egr to turbo pipe (as pictured)

put a silicone pipe down the hole that is left

if you look through the thread there are some other peoples actual mid job pictures, worth reading the whole thing as ALL questions have been answered in there, plus you will see its success

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hoping to do this this weekend as my car is acting up. Going to be cleaning EGR as well.

Obviously I will follow the instructions but how would I know if its gone into the engine not the turbo? Is it pretty obvious? I imagine this is somethign that once I take the pipe off I'll think "what a tit for asking such a stupid question!"

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Well you can see in the picture above the cylinders come out to the manifold on the horizontal. As long as the hose is pointing straight down with a slight anticlockwise kink it should find its way in, you'd be able to feel if it did a right angle turn into one of the cylinders.

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Well you can see in the picture above the cylinders come out to the manifold on the horizontal. As long as the hose is pointing straight down with a slight anticlockwise kink it should find its way in, you'd be able to feel if it did a right angle turn into one of the cylinders.

Cheers, I thought that might be the case. It usually becomes obvious once you get down to business but my girlfriend drives the car in the week so I don't see it for days at a time! :giggle:

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Cheers, I thought that might be the case. It usually becomes obvious once you get down to business but my girlfriend drives the car in the week so I don't see it for days at a time! :giggle:

IMHO your girlfriend driving it is probably worse for the car than 3 cans of mr muscle directly into the block and left for a week.........with nails........and ****

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IMHO your girlfriend driving it is probably worse for the car than 3 cans of mr muscle directly into the block and left for a week.........with nails........and ****

haha, she drives it okay to be fair...I explained quite specifically about how to look after a diesel esp. turbo and what not. Only bad thing is the car doesn't get nice motorway drives very often :(

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I am getting an intermittant P0234: Turbo/Super Charger Overboost Condition, think this could help? Any pics of this for the PD170?

My mate is a mechanic, I'm thinking of printing this out and getting him to do it. I'm afraid I'll mis-identify a part and kill my engine. :sweat: :wall:

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After i brought my car from an older guy last yr i had this limp problem, i guess it was sticky veins due to him not using the turbo for what it was designed for so after reading a few forums started gettign the revs up and finally it seemed to sort itself out but having now read this post im thinking it would be good to do this procedure anyhow as if it cant do the engine any harm iv nothing to loose and if the car runs better well then thats all good so ill see how it goes thanks for the tips!!!

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lofty79....in an earlier posting you mentioned about the egr being removed or blanked off altogether. What effect on the car and its performance will this make and if its worth doing could you assist me with instructions on how to do this as im very interested, or anyone for that matter if uve done this on your car thanks ( is it a simple operation )

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guys, I don't want to take away in any way from what is starting to become a legendary post on the net.

I just couldn't work it out on my pd170 and as the fault had occured twice only in appx 10k miles, I guessed it was minor. I risked £15 on forte turbo cleaner in a tank of diesel.

after about 10miles of motorway, I noticed the turbo would kick in much lower down the rev range and audibly sounds better. after the rest of the tank (all used on motorway for hour and a half at a time) the turbo is much more responsive and I can thoroughly recommend it.

a different car now and I think I will do it 6 monthly although as the new owner I do not nurse it so much. however, I would also say that I read a lot here and elsewhere and this method has nothing but praise and if my problem was more frequent I would not have used the forte and paid an expert to use the above.

unless it is a minor fault I would still stick with this method, but thought my experience of forte may help

this thread is what justified me paying freedom membership. worth its weight in gold. personally I would say anyone who saves a couple £ should be buying membership or hunting down lofty and buying him many pints....

sent via Playbook and Tapatalk

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Ok guys, looks like I will be doing this on Good Friday, limp mode 3 times in 3 days, all on full throttle up hill in 4th.

Looks like my vanes are sticking, 50k on this turbo and always serviced with Quantum LongLife oil.

What diameter pipe do I need, and where are you getting the little elbow from to make life easier?

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

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Well, £10 and 2 hours later and my limp mode is a thing of the past.

Didn't really see much gunk coming out of the exhaust, but took it to the red line in 3rd, 4th & 5th up a steep hill on a dual carriageway and no sign of limp mode.

I wouldn't like to do this on a PD140 that still has the EGR cooler in place unless it was up in the air and access was from underneath. Luckily I don't have any EGR system at all so had tons of room to do it from the top once the intake pipework was moved out of the way slightly - I didn't remove it, just took the elbow to the MAF off and took the top 2 securing screws out and then it can be repositioned without disconnecting from the turbo.

The actuator was stiff at first, it seemed to have full travel to the stop, but it got considerably easier to move over the 2 hour period.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

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I have an EGR cooler on my engine and it makes it so much trickier to get the pipe off as the cooler doubles back across the manifold. I gave up and put it back together partly because my fingers got numb but i'll have another go when the weather warms up.

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It is easy to get to from underneath, but you need it on a lift really so you can stand up.

If you are doing it from underneath wear goggles as the Mr Muscle foams up and will drip down out of the EGR take off port.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

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Hi I'm going to do this on my Ibiza cupra tdi 160 tonight and as I have the luxury of doing it on a 2 post ramp would I be better off taking the exhaust off and doing it from underneath or still going through the egr pipe

Jon

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I would still go through the EGR port on the manifold. If you disconnect the exhaust you will have to fit a glove or something over the turbo outlet or it will end up everywhere and it is seriously nasty stuff to have dripping all over the place.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

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