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How to: Replace Coolant Temperature Sensor


BigJakk

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Following is a short tutorial on how to replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor on the MkI Octavia vRS - I believe that the process is similar on all of the MkIV Golf based VAG platforms though.

Note that the job should be carried out when the engine is stone cold, as during the process a small dribble of coolant will be forced out of the system under pressure and the last thing we want is for this to be boiling hot and scald you!

The job takes about 10-15mins total and the only tools that are required are a flat headed screwdriver. If i can do it, so can you.

Issues with the coolant temperature sensor are fairly common on our cars and can often result to poor running when cold, fluctuating idle rpm and ultimately a check engine light.

There are to versions of the sensor available, the original "black" version which are prone to failure, and an updated green version. The part number for the newest version of 059 919 501 A. A plastic retaining clip as well as a rubber O-Ring are also required for fitting the sensor, these will often be included, but be advised to check

The OEM part will cost about £25-35 from VW, however in this instance i purchased a Febi-Bilstein sensor for about £10 - they are OEM manufacturers after all so shouldn't be any issues with quality. One word of warning, there are a lot of "no name" versions of the sensor available on Ebay - I would be inclined to avoid these.

On with the show:

1) Remove both the upper and lower engine covers (the two large lumps of plastic covering the engine area under the bonnet) The larger top cover is held in place by four press screws in each corner, apply a little downward pressure and a quarter turn will loosen them off. After removing the top cover, do the same with the lower cover, which runs along the bottom of the engine and alongside the cylinder head, same type of screws, but this time only three to be undone (the third screw is only visible with the top cover removed).

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2) As the sensor we are replacing is on one of the coolant lines, we don't want all of our coolant to splosh out when we remove it. To prevent this, remove the cap from the coolant reservoir on the drivers side of the engine bay in order to release any pressure, then replace the cap to create a vaccum.

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3) Locate the coolant temperature sensor, this is just to the right of the cylinder head. It is positioned at a 90 degree angle from one of the coolant lines. It is only really visible with the lower engine cover off:

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4) As you can see, the sensor is held in place with a small plastic "U" shaped clip, this will need to be removed. There should be sufficient daylight for you to slip a small flathead screwdriver between the clip and the pipe and just ease it off. Apparently these are prone to snapping and breaking, however mine came out without issue.

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5) Prepare your new sensor, by placing the rubber o-ring on the end. Some advised greasing this ring up with petroleum jelly, however i didn't have any to hand on the day.

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6) With the retaining clip off the old sensor, pull up gently on the electrical connector and the sensor should come free. There will be a small amount of coolant that will spill forth when you do so, but if you followed the advice re: the coolant cap it should be an insubstantial amount.

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7) Typically, like mine did, when removing the old sensor the old rubber O-Ring will be left inside of the socket you have removed the old sensor from. Reach inside and hook it out with a finger

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8) Examine the sensor and you will see that it is connected to a an electrical connector, with a retaining function. To release the old sensor, use your flathead screwdriver to gently lever the small square tab at the rear of the connector. There should be a light click to let you know it has released. A gentle pull on the sensor should pull it free of the connector.

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9) The rest of the process is just a reversal of the above procedure. Insert the new sensor into the electrical harness, again there should be a soft click to let you know it is locked in.

Replace the new sensor with O Ring back into the socket (the small clip on the electrical connector should face towards the rear of the engine bay). Again there will be a small click to let you know it is properly inserted.

Reinsert the U Clip to retain the sensor, there are a couple of holes through which to insert the clip into, the closed end of the U should face towards the front of the engine bay.

Replace engine covers

Job Done! Fire up the car and take it for a short test drive to check all is well!

Edited by BigJakk
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  • 5 months later...

Don't suppose you would know if it is in the same place on a 2.0L engine as well thanks

Probably is as the temp sensor is normally found the gearbox side of the engine and up towards the cam over. As the sensor is the same, would not take you long to find it.

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  • 4 months later...

This might be common sense, but perhaps it will help some people

The clip came out quite easily for me, I used a large flathead screwdriver to lever it out slightly, then used my hands to wiggle it free.

There was a little spurt of coolant, having a rag handy to catch it would be helpful!

Also, the sensor didn't look like it was seated deep enough. It was actually seated fine, it just looked odd before I replaced the clip.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did you bleed the system of air after? I.e leave the cap off the coolant reservoir bottle and rev the engine until the fan kicks in and circulates the coolant removing any air locked in the system?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Like to say, excellent description, ended up being an easy job!

I noticed after I fitted the new sensor, the engine light was still on. Is this normal, thus requiring a diagnostic tool to remove, or does this mean the sensor is still not securely fastened? Or could it even be a different problem? Although last time I checked it was a p0118 fault code that appeared.

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Like to say, excellent description, ended up being an easy job!

I noticed after I fitted the new sensor, the engine light was still on. Is this normal, thus requiring a diagnostic tool to remove, or does this mean the sensor is still not securely fastened? Or could it even be a different problem? Although last time I checked it was a p0118 fault code that appeared.

Took it for a drive yet? It clears itself after a few miles

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  • 3 months later...
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  • 3 weeks later...

Just did mine this morning as I have been having fluctuating temps between 70 and 90 and the eml came on last week. 

 

No luck though, the temp is still up and down. Would changing the stat be the next step?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Is the same sensor like to be in the same place on my 2010 plate 1.6 TDI cr elegance please. I am losing coolant at the rate of a header tank full after about an hours driving. No water in the engine oil so I don't think its head gasket OR I hope not anyway. Not had the car a year yet

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Just ran the car up to 90deg temperature water is running onto the floor from above the bottom engine cover but without ramps or a pit I can't get under the car to see where from exactly. Does anyone have any suggestions what it could be. Car doesn't overheat so don't think its core plugs either otherwise I think water would just pour through. Thanks in advance

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Just ran the car up to 90deg temperature water is running onto the floor from above the bottom engine cover but without ramps or a pit I can't get under the car to see where from exactly. Does anyone have any suggestions what it could be. Car doesn't overheat so don't think its core plugs either otherwise I think water would just pour through. Thanks in advance

water pump

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  • 4 months later...

Hi,

 

Thanks for this very useful guide. My 2003 vRS had the old black version, so I changed it for the new green one for the sake of good order. Now however, I have a problem. The temperature wont reach 90 which I did with the previous version. In fact, it hardly moves much at all even after hours of driving. I managed once to push it to 70. No fault codes or warning lights.

 

Any thoughts of what the problem might be?

 

Cheers!

 

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Edited by The Troninator
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Non-genuine coolant temperature sensors have a history of being problematic. I would recommend that you fit a genuine part and see if that fixes the problem.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey Guys, I am using my brother's Skoda Octavia I, 2.0L Petrol of year 2002. 

 

It has been giving trouble with Air Con, which works at its own discretion. And recently it also ended up with overheating and coolant boiling up. The fans seems to be working but the temp gauge has been at 0 Degree, I thought it was faulty. Maybe some fuse problem. But did some reading and found that the Coolant Temp Sensor could be at fault too.

When I opened up the bonnet to check the sensor, I found that some Oil had been dripping right above the sensor connector, this was due a pipe tear. I changed the pipe to get rid of oil drip and now I am not very sure if the Coolant Temp Sensor is at fault or the connector itself might have gone bad. 

Wanted your suggestion as to how to confirm this, before I decide to change the sensor itself?

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