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Hard to start the engine when hot. (BKD engine)


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hi all i keep coming across this one if the coolent sensor is faulty it will default to -40 which on a petrol will cause flooding that will lead to poor starting when cold not hot as for diesel it will run a little leaner however this fault will be flagged by a good ecu reader poor starting when hot would more be more like engine speed sensor which has windings which when warm expand which then go open circuit the ecu cant see the engne turning so it dose not switch fuel pump on ect ,as for replacing batterys if you have a ecu fault or light on when you remove battery and leave it off for over 10min it will reset ecu you prob find you have to retune your radio or the millage trip has been reset there for the fault is no longer in ecu car starts ,.i have had lots of these type of faults on the side of the road :rofl:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I replaced the battery today - a new Exide from ECP. It has made a small difference to my hot start, but it still needs a longer spin, than when starting from cold. It beats me why they program the ECU to look for a minimum crank speed when hot - what is the reason??

However, it was the original battery from new and therefore six years old. So I am happy to have replaced it - preventative maintenance.

It was a very good price from Euro Car parts - £52.50 delivered to my door, with the BRISK25 discount. This beats the cheapest on ebay for £59.99 delivered, and most autofactors wanted £67. So quite pleased, and its an Exide which is a good make, 72 AH and 680 cold crank amps.

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Well I replaced the battery today - a new Exide from ECP. It has made a small difference to my hot start, but it still needs a longer spin, than when starting from cold. It beats me why they program the ECU to look for a minimum crank speed when hot - what is the reason??

However, it was the original battery from new and therefore six years old. So I am happy to have replaced it - preventative maintenance.

It was a very good price from Euro Car parts - £52.50 delivered to my door, with the BRISK25 discount. This beats the cheapest on ebay for £59.99 delivered, and most autofactors wanted £67. So quite pleased, and its an Exide which is a good make, 72 AH and 680 cold crank amps.

hello i think what you need to do is get proper brake down service i.e skoda assistance and get your car plugged in proper its only 89 a year i can set it up

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How would a break down service help? He hasn't broken down.

I assume when you say "get your car plugged in proper" you are suggesting he has the car read for fault codes? I think it's been agreed that this particular issue doesn't result in any fault codes.

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name='booke23' timestamp='1345557999' post='2905546']

I think the last thing he needs is a break down service...........Had a break down service replaced the battery they would have probably charged double what he actually paid![/u]

i work for this service you have not seen the kit we carry you realy have no clue what your on about we dont work for selling parts we work to fix cars and as for your comment its not a break down we come out for warning lights poor starting software updates ect i bet your with green flag which just send a bloody tow truck sorry but stupid comments like this get me do your home work first :wall:

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i work for this service you have not seen the kit we carry you realy have no clue what your on about we dont work for selling parts we work to fix cars and as for your comment its not a break down we come out for warning lights poor starting software updates ect i bet your with green flag which just send a bloody tow truck sorry but stupid comments like this get me do your home work first :wall:

Hmmmm......new member....first post....."orangevanman" advertising troll?.......needless to say, I'm not biting.

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Are vas6150a and orangevanman not one & the same person, or do breakdown services only employ people who can't use punctuation or capital letters now?

I think you're right.......Same awful spelling mistakes too......."brake" down service...."coolent" sensor "ect ect"

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I would never normally criticise anyone on the basis of their punctuation, spelling etc, but I found it slightly bizarre that someone would apparently sign up for another username solely for the purpose of having a pop at someone, if indeed that is what they did!

Going back to the original point, I think the problem is any one of these issues can cause poor hot starting. Anything that causes either the cranking speed to be slightly slower than normal, or just make the ECU think it's slower than normal, will do it.

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I would never normally criticise anyone on the basis of their punctuation, spelling etc, but I found it slightly bizarre that someone would apparently sign up for another username solely for the purpose of having a pop at someone, if indeed that is what they did!

Ditto

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Probably best if everything past post #27 gets removed as it seems to be getting off topic and a bit on the personal side.

Does a new battery cure it then or not? Or is it the cam sensor? We may never know ..................

Well on mine Andy, I would say the new battery has helped, but has not cured it. So for me this will have to do for the time being, as I don't want to spend any more on this and will put up with it. Particularly since my Compressor has gone which is going to cost a fortune, unless I can find a good low mileage used compressor.

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  • 8 months later...

Well I have had issues in the last week or so with hot starting, after reading this post and another on these forums I decided to change the coolant temperature sensor (Skoda dealer - £35.48) an easy enough job to do and cheapest option to start with. It took about 30 mins as I took out the battery and air box for better access. However... It didn't stop the problem for me so next up is changing the battery as when I removed it i noticed the indicator was showing that its on its way out.

battery01

As its been a while since any new posts have appeared on this thread has anyone found out any new information? Thanks

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I think nick74 summed it up nicely:

Anything that causes either the cranking speed to be slightly slower than normal, or just make the ECU think it's slower than normal, will do it.

So your battery would be the next place to look. But a sensor issue can't be ruled out.

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Looks like I might have to start looking at changing the starter next? I changed the battery today for a (new) more heavy duty one but the problem is still there. It takes 2-3seconds before it starts with the key turned. But once cool the engine fires up instantly (as it should).

Is there anything I could get tested before I go to further expense (ie £200 starter motor) on chasing down the problem?

No lights on the dash but I haven't plugged in the code reader yet, which I'll do in the morning but I expect it to be clear.

Thanks in advance.

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Having read this topic I would be wary of uprating the battery to a more AH one as this may stress the alternator and then more expense when it won't fully charge the battery, unless the output of the alternator can cope of course :happy:

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Is there anything I could get tested before I go to further expense (ie £200 starter motor) on chasing down the problem?

I'd suggest looking at the crank position sensor before replacing the starter (it's cheaper than a starter).

Ideally, you'd find a friend with a BKD engine (remember Golf/Audi A3's etc use BKD engines) and borrow their crank position sensor and see if that cures the problem, before shelling out on a new sensor.

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  • 3 months later...

Hello people, 

 

I had a similar problem my Skoda Octavia 1.9TDI. It was starting fine in the morning and it would take between 5-8 second to start once hot. I replaced the starter motor , it never cured the problem.

went to the dealers and got a new Fuel Filter changed it and now the car starts the moment you turn the key.

What I did do in the past few months I used Morrisions Fuel, i don't think it helps. Now Im sticking to Shell. 

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  • 11 months later...

The hot start problem can only be solved on ecu software (quickly and safe). See this diagram http://www.motor-talk.de/bilder/fahrzeug-springt-schlecht-an-g65000802/problem3d-i207228650.html

 

when temperature between 70°C and 100°C and starter until 270 rpm the ecu doesnt inject fuel >> engine doesnt start.

 

Also the engine starts heavy when temperature over 50°C.

 

you need help to solve it? contact me.

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  • 2 years later...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131966035072?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

 

This seller has three different wiring sets for VAG engines to warm engine start problem elimination. It depend on what kind of  engine coolant temperature sensor your car has. All you need to do with these wiring kits is to just plug them in and that is it.

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  • 3 years later...

Hello,
I am really really stuck on this now,4 wks ago my skoda octavia mk2 1.9tdi 2009 would not start when engine was hot,cold starts no problem whatsoever,since then i firstly changed fuel pump as i rushed into panic,did not work.
So after searching through forums and forums and some mechanics,i have since changed the coolant temp sensor,the crankshaft sensor,and on friday changed the starter motor and also the fuel filter.also had battery tested and tried to start when engine was warm with power pack,all through this if i disconnect the coolant temp sensor the car starts hot or cold but i know im only by passing the problem doing this and need to get to the bottom of it.
I am spending an absolute fortune and getting nowhere frown there is no fault codes coming up on diagnostic machine,the guy who done the starter on friday thinks it is the injector seals are worn and not getting enough compression to start when engine is hot,that all sounds real but my question is if it is the seals worn then how is it if im disconnecting the coolant temp sensor the car will start no problem,if the seals are the problem then why would disconnecting the sensor have any effect and would it not mean if the seals were the problem then the car will not start warm regardless of coolant switch been connected or disconnected?if there is a air gap created from worn seals surely that air gap will not suddenly seal if im disconnecting the coolant temp sensor?i can not afford to keep trying things and to be honest no sane person can keep pumping money into the car hoping the next fix will solve the problem,can someone please advise or help if have experienced this before ? Thank you for time to read big rant ,i dont think cutting wire looms and by passing the coolant sensor into tricking the ecu to think its cold starting is the answer,surely the underlying problem needs to be found?

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