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Beti the K04 Yeti.


Yeti_Man

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What a great morning for a bit of brake refurbishment! In readiness for fitting next Saturday I thought I'd give the rear calipers some new seals and a quick rub down and re spray. Three light coats later (and yet to do the final lacquer coats) but the results are really good IMO. At least they won't look out of place alongside the Porsche Calipers on the front, which still look like new. :)

So next Saturday's todo list:

Fit new Brembo disks and DS2500 Cayman S pads to the front.

Fit these Audi S3 rear calipers + Pagid 310mm disks and pads.

Change the fluid for fresh ATE fluid

 

How long (distance) did the front discs and pads last?

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How long (distance) did the front discs and pads last?

iirc I had the Porsche setup put on around 21 - 23,000 miles and im now on 50,000. The disks have a very slight lip but I generally change pads and disks together when using uprated pads anyway. :)

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iirc I had the Porsche setup put on around 21 - 23,000 miles and im now on 50,000. The disks have a very slight lip but I generally change pads and disks together when using uprated pads anyway. :)

 

Nothing too bad for road use then. :thumbup:

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What a great morning for a bit of brake refurbishment! In readiness for fitting next Saturday I thought I'd give the rear calipers some new seals and a quick rub down and re spray. Three light coats later (and yet to do the final lacquer coats) but the results are really good IMO. At least they won't look out of place alongside the Porsche Calipers on the front, which still look like new. :)

So next Saturday's todo list

Fit new Brembo disks and DS2500 Cayman S pads to the front.

Fit these Audi S3 rear calipers + Pagid 310mm disks and pads.

Change the fluid for fresh ATE fluid

Are the Cayman S pads the ones that cover the whole swept area of the 312s or is it just the Boxster S pads that do that?

 

Didn't go Boxter in the end as I couldn't get them behind stock wheels even on 18s without spacers. The car has the 340/310 setup anyway so not too bad as is but still have the brembos on the shelf for something

 

Just curious as to why you feel it needs 310 rears? does it have the 272s now? Not many people run this setup on the road especially on a Haldex

 

Very nice machine though 

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Are the Cayman S pads the ones that cover the whole swept area of the 312s or is it just the Boxster S pads that do that?

 

Didn't go Boxter in the end as I couldn't get them behind stock wheels even on 18s without spacers. The car has the 340/310 setup anyway so not too bad as is but still have the brembos on the shelf for something

 

Just curious as to why you feel it needs 310 rears? does it have the 272s now? Not many people run this setup on the road especially on a Haldex

 

Very nice machine though

Cayman S pads also sweep the entire depth of the disk area. 286mm x12 currently so very similar ratio to what I'm now changing it to (standard fronts were 288mm). The Yeti is the heaviest car in the vw group that gets that setup iirc and to feel the rears doing more (which is my aim) they need to be bigger/more powerful. It's the perfect match front to rear given the vehicle weight according to DaveB at Vagbremtech and there's not too much he doesn't know about brakes, especially when related to VW group vehicles. ;)
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Cayman S pads also sweep the entire depth of the disk area. 286mm x12 currently so very similar ratio to what I'm now changing it to (standard fronts were 288mm). The Yeti is the heaviest car in the vw group that gets that setup iirc and to feel the rears doing more (which is my aim) they need to be bigger/more powerful. It's the perfect match front to rear given the vehicle weight according to DaveB at Vagbremtech and there's not too much he doesn't know about brakes, especially when related to VW group vehicles. ;)

 Ah! I thought you had 312s on the front (the std boxster pad leaves quite a lip on the disk on 312s) but I guess the 286 bit closer to the boxster disk and a better match all clear now!

 

I would be really interested to see what you think when you have played with it a bit as I was originally thinking of the caddy rear setup following those mammoth threads started by DaveB

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Hi Lee,

Hope you don't mind me picking your brains. Im starting the new project and one of the first thing is swopping out the dampers and springs. Is the bumpstop upgrade needed when switching to the Bilsteins or just something you wanted for your set up?

Glad to see its running so well, loved the Snowdonia pics, only an hour from me so over there regularly, kids love it.

Edited by DarrellGB
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Couple of questions...

Front top mounts - what's the advantage of the TT top mounts you referred to, and the SKF bearings ?

Rear top mounts - did you just fit OE ones ?

I've noticed in parts catalogues, that OE rear bumpstops are available in two lengths (something like 133mm and 143mm).

Don't suppose you've any idea why two different lengths are available ?

Bump stop 133mm: 3C0511359 (mentions rough road options, PR-1JB and PR-1JG, and 4x4)

Bump stop 143mm: 1T0511359 (mentions only PR-1JL)

None of those option codes are listed on my sticker, but looking them up online suggests:

PRCode: 1JB = Rear shock absorption for rough-road design

PRCode: 1JG = Rear shock absorption for rough-road design 2

PRCode: 1JL = Rear shock absorption

I'm not lowering mine, and don't tend to carry any weight in the car.

Am leaning towards the 143mm in the absence of any other info (plus I guess I could always cut them down if I find they're longer than the old ones, if those haven't already crumbled to bits that is)

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  • 4 months later...

Hi folks, I'm very interested in this thread as I need to replace struts & springs on my 170tdi 4x4 Yeti. I didnt really want to lower the car as I like the 4x4 go anywhere capability which I thought when I bought it 4 years ago I'd use more than I do. So as I'm kidding myself about the need for big ground clearance, a little lowering would be ok (as per photos on this thread.) Having run Eibac/FSDs on my previous 156 sportwagon (which were great, a big improvement in ride comfort yet better handling too & reliable for the 15months I had so equipped car) the extra economy I got as a result of the lowering would always be welcome again. So I've been thinking of going that way, but it appears from this thread that the B6/Eibach would be better on the Yeti than the FSD/Eibach. My driving is 50% potholed A roads with 25% motorway & 25% even worse town roads. The Yeti is noticeably quicker point to point than SHMBO's A3 Sport as that skitters all over the place because it's too hard & I do upwards of 18k a year so I need to keep suppleness as a top priority. With all this in mind should I go FSDs or B6s? I also notice that the part no.s used on Beti are not Octavia but Golf 6. What was the reasoning behind the actual parts chosen? I'm on 55mm fronts FYI! Thanks in anticipation!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not sure if Lee is on here much but I have the same Bilstein suspension setup on my 2016 Yeti 2.0tdi 150ps. If I can help at all just pop me a message.

Edited by DarrellGB
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  • 2 years later...

Just to re-light this old thread if anyone's really interested, I fitted the Eibachs & Bilstein B6s eventually, & ran them for nearly 2 years. The rear offside damper could be a little noisy (clonked) at times, but other than that, fairly impressive. However over time & as roads got steadily worse, the low speed ride started to get to me & it started to feel like too big a compromise even though the high speed performance remained impressive. Then the front nearside strut started to knock badly, so I started the whole process again. Unfortunately you can't get FSDs for the Yeti at the moment, they're developing a revised product so I swapped out the B6s for B4s, still with old Eibachs. Bingo! The Yeti is as it should have been from the factory! Noticeably better low speed ride even than standard (compared to a 2017 SE-L Drive I drove the other day) but retains 90% of the high speed chassis control of the B6s. Brilliant, suits the nature of the car perfectly & doesn't feel like a compromise now, just  an even more impressive spread of ability. The only thing I would say is the B6s were a significantly beefier unit, but they're also a different design & as they didn't even make 2 years old, I can't say they're better build quality than the B4s. Only time will tell if there's a difference between them, despite appearances. 

I now also have an Abarth 500 that has been treated to Koni FSDs & Eibachs that work almost as well as the same set-up did on the 156 despite the tiny wheelbase & chassis design/age, but I'm not sure this set up would be any benefit over the B4/Eibachs on the Yeti & the B4s are significantly cheaper than both the B6s & the FSDs used to be. So, I'm happy, & really impressed with this new B4/Eibach set-up.

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  • 1 year later...
On 02/11/2012 at 19:50, Yeti_Man said:

Ben phoned (after hours!) with an update. In hardware terms, everything is done - brakes (986 calipers, Mintex M1144 pads, ATE Super Blue fluid, HEL braided lines), S3 intercooler, H&R front and rear adjustable arb's, polybushes, uprated clutch, K04 turbo conversion... The car is running on the new ECU map and he will spend tomorrow 'refining' it. :) Then just the requested 6,000 mile oil change and its ready for me on Sunday. :happy:

Having started recently upgrading my Yeti I am pleased to see it isn't only me that thinks the platform is excellent for mods. I got mine for towing mainly but want a punchy handling performance cars as well. As an experienced track driver I tow my other cars about so something had to give when I decided to sell my 335d as it wouldn't tow enough.. I am well chuffed overall and have already upgraded all the sound system and now want to add Brakes (how I got your post) and also coilovers. I have already booked for mapping after having the DSG gearbox and Haldex serviced by Skoda along with the timing belt/pump. Gearbox service on the DSG transformed the car for those who think its a waste of money.. All the slop gone and very nice change through the gears under load (mine is 50000 miles). On the brakes I have been looking for part numbers so that I can put bigger discs and then carriers for the current callipers on, anyone help with this? Elegance 4x4 2.0TDi DSG is my car if that matters.

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@McGee01  I have never heard anyone say that the DSG service on Wet Clutch DSG's at 40,000 miles or sooner was a waste of money.

Plenty have regretted that they were not made aware of the Service Recommendations or that a used car they bought had not had the DSG serviced to schedule when it expired in a very costly manner.

 

?

Do you know if the Haldex Service you had done got the screen cleaned as it should have?

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/487622-yeti-haldex-v-oil-change-oil-pump-filter-clean

 

Edited by e-Roottoot
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16 minutes ago, e-Roottoot said:

@McGee01  I have never heard anyone say that the DSG service on Wet Clutch DSG's at 40,000 miles or sooner was a waste of money.

Plenty have regretted that they were not made aware of the Service Recommendations or that a used car they bought had not had the DSG serviced to schedule when it expired in a very costly manner.

 

?

Do you know if the Haldex Service you had done got the screen cleaned as it should have?

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/487622-yeti-haldex-v-oil-change-oil-pump-filter-clean

 

Yes it did have the screen/filter cleaned as well.. I work for a company that has Skoda franchise in its business's so they guys look after the car properly when it comes to the basics. They have all the correct tools and at staff rates its affordable also. Leaves me a bit extra to do other things.

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