1.8T Timing Belt DIY

[green beard]

I changed my Timing Belt and Water Pump about a month ago using this guide:

http://forums.vwvort...ead.php?2840728

I thought it would be useful to have it in here as I have not found anything when using the search?

It's pretty much self explanatory but one tip I do have for anyone trying this themselves is to remove the small roller from the Tensioner and fit this last.

Also, I removed everything from that side of the Engine Bay, Coolant Expansion Tank, Power Steering Tank and all associated pipes and breathers.

I also removed the Driver's front wheel, all the plastic tray type stuff and Pancake Pipe as the OP does.

No I didn't manage to completely remove the Engine Mounting and just moved it around as required.

I did not use the Flywheel marks, just the Cam Sprocket mark and nail varnish for the Crank Sprocket.

[TeflonTom]

I always applaud folks that have a go themselves, well done..

That's a good guide there, although there is an easy Way to compress the timing belt tensioner, use a piece of m5 threaded bar and an m5 nut, or you can just squeeze it in a vice so you can insert the locking pin.

it always irritated me that there is no timing marks on the crank pulley on those engines, but there is a dimple in the outer timing belt cover you can use instead.

[green beard]

Thanks, I was pleased with how well it went, although it still took me 12 hours start to finish!

I used a new Tensioner seen as everything else was new, is it ok to re-use them?

I saw the marks on the cover as I cleaned it all to put back on, but this was after the job was done.

Yes I was annoyed that there were no marks on the Crank but then after thinking about it more I realised that I was simply replacing the belt and not having to time the engine up after a rebuild so then it was all OK and I just got on with it.

[TeflonTom]

I don't know what the official guidelines are for the tensioner ( the pin spring loaded bit), I know it definitely is not included with a genuine timing belt kit, they cost about £90 from vag dealerships for the tensioner, and the belt kit which comes with a new roller and small idler is about £150

although the last time I bought a gates auto master kit that tensioner was supplied with the kit as well as the roller and the smaller idler and the kit was about £100 for the whole lot excluding the water pump

gates auto master kit included everything, I tend to always use a genuine vw water pump though because I've been bitten by cheap factored ones in the past.

[green beard]

I bought a VAG repair kit from TPS and as it was on Parts Club Promotion it was only £60+vat and the Water Pump was the same price including the surcharge (that you get back when you take your old unit in)

When I got the kit out at home I didn't understand how the Belt was tensioned, so after actually looking into what I had set out to do I discovered this Hydraulic Tensioner thing and TPS were quoting me £102 for a genuine one so I ended up with a German INA Tensioner from GSF car parts via Ebay for another £60 (including express delivery)

I haven't seen the Gates kit but that seems like the easiest and cheapest option, although I did see on Eurocarparts there is a Contitech kit with everything in (excluding water pump) for £150 but if you could get that with their crazy 50% off prices then that would obviously be a bargain.

Oh I changed my Aux Pulley belt too and that was £27 for a genuine VAG part, again from TPS.

That's a good picture above, is that one you did yourself?

[Volvomeg]

As tom said good on you for having a bash,

I did mine when i first got my vrs and there not the most straight forward belts to get to, i didn't remove mounting either as it wouldn't come out so i just shoved it out of way, did mine in an afternoon including waterpump but i do it for a living so am used to spanners but mainly volvos more than VAGs,

Did mine at 63k, cars now done 98k so considering doing it again soon as its done a couple of trackdays and i do drive it quiet hard at times

[green beard]

Yes I guess you would need to be able to do one in an afternoon if you wanted to earn a living at it.

I work slowly and with that job I was double checking things at least.

The car was new to me and was on 80K and the last documented change was 5 years previous at 38Kish, I had a look at the belt a couple of times and it looked a bit tired but not split or perished anywhere I could see but it wasn't so tight anymore that's for sure.

When I got the old stuff off the car, the bearings on the roller and idler/tensioner pulley were in good shape but the water pump was noticeably tighter than the new one.

I was driving around upto 3K rpm but have been letting the revs go a bit since the change but its a 13 year old practical car to see me through a change in career for the next year or two - it just happened to have the 1.8T under the bonnet as a bonus :-)

[OutlawKen]

Old topic I no but I did mine a few weeks ago and wanted to ask how you all did it without removing the mount? What way did you move it out the way? I did remove mine after taking ages to find a socket deep enough but not to long to get the middle bolt out! Haynes says drop the mount out the bottom which I did after removing the intercooler pipe bracket but when refitting it I had a friend above the engine whilst I was under it and got it back in from the top.

 

I made 2 5mm threaded tools for the tensioner as the first bent and I was 1 tooth out on the first check, second fitment went well. Took me 11 hours but reckon I could do it in 6 now, this was belt, tensioner and water pump from gates for just under 100, bargain,  i do need new aux pulley bolts tho as I forgot to tighten them and drove home 5 miles! I was completely shattered having started work at 6am, started working on the car at 16.30 and got home at 4am!