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RE-POSTED BECAUSE HAD WRONG FORUM Hey everyone, been a while since I had to use briskoda but my truck seems to dislike winter as have issue with my pickup engine that iv half sorted I think but as usual any help is appreciated, noticed lately on damp mornings the engine runs tad rough , well more so than the usual Felicia rattle lol and hesitates slightly for second when throttle applied but two days ago lost completely any top end power and slight judder from engine when pulling away? Now it's always been on list to replace the battered original HT leads so did it yesterday and it's back to normal.....kinda. Idle is better but can hear slight hissing and if I accelerate in lower gears I can hear slightly different tone from under the bonnet. More throaty sort of sound , can only describe it as sounds similar to a car running with no air box? Just kind of worried about possible vacuum leaks as mines the 1.3 engine with a carburettor. I'm off out in it shortly so I'll post anything new an any one had experience with anything carb related I'd appreciate picking your brains lol cheers
Sorry for long post.
What are your opinions on the various options with respect to replacing the boost pipework ?
I've read widely on this.
After trying to seal joints using new c clips and a few new o rings and heat shrink, it ultimately did not work.
Having had a taste of the real potential of this car I just want the car to be working right.
Here are my thoughts:
1) seat darkside fmic and hard pipe kit . this option requires trimming of crash bar and radiator surround. Car is unmodified and fully stock, does not have xenon lights. Darkside has advised ecu would need tweaking to obtain full potential of fmic.
Darkside is geographically close to me, only reason for mentioning them.
I've read fmic is overkill for a non track car unless bigger turbo and other enhancements present. Also fmic will cause turbo lag? Fmic has cooler denser air flow to turbo, less heat saturation.
Car is not lowered, read boost pipes could rub on driveshaft. Could this option make maintenance difficult? Just replaced radiator to car.
2) Smic without plastic ends and hard pipe kit. Could fit this myself. Like for like. No remap needed?
3) buy new oem pipe work that is leaking boost due to wear on lugs. Cost of two right angle pipes is £180 and no guarantees. I don't like the plastic connectors on the oem smic. Could be wear on this part?
4) fmic Smic kits then mention egr delete. On my vrs blt engine I ve read that egr removal will result in...
longer warm up times?,
Mpg reduced or increased?
More turbo wear due to hotter gases?
Less inlet manifold black soot gunk.
EML on dash illuminating but can be mapped out.
I've already replaced a sooted up egr for £120 with new seals 10k miles ago. Not that pricey compared to other Skoda models and easy to do.
Reason to remove egr would be to allow hard / silicone boost pipework to seal wwith rest of car and avoid c clips and lugs on the asv that is after the egr.
Benefit would be to avoid high particulates sooting up egr and inlet manifold and injectors? Also, I've read that this gunk can seize turbo veins/ blades.
I`m all for reducing acid rain from high NOx emissions but having seen state of inlet manifold egr at 70k I was / I now am considering this option.
5) asv and egr are separate on blt vrs engine but join to one another. Asv then joins to boost pipework. Removal of asv will result in shaky engine after turning engine off and cause accelerated wear on engine mounts.
Also, I've read the oil remaining in the intercooler could combust causing overboost on turbo and rev engine to destruction?
See this guardian link
6) then there is a remap to 165 to 170bhp that was mentioned to me?TAilored to the car. Will remap wear out clutch, throw out gear box, reduce turbo longevity?
I suspect the boost pipework has been leaking from 40 k when ownership was started. The oil leak from join after intercooler....
It is truly terrible design.
What should I do?
Car has 80k on clock and I intend to keep for next few years.
If you can answer one point or more that would be great.
7) PS where does the watery particulate, oil in the intercooler go once the boost pipework seals are not leaking? The Smic oem is lowest point on car. Does it get carried back up to turbo and then engine under boost?
My car is going into limp mode when i go over 80 miles an hour full throttle but can go over 80 if i barely touch the pedal. I checked the code when the car goes into limp mode and its the code for overboosting. Has anyone had this problem and fixed it ive been told the turbo veins needs clean but ive also been told i need a new turbo.
Has anyone had this problem and fixed it or know how to fix it