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Superb Twindoor wiring fix


Mart Vrs

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On 22/08/2013 at 16:55, Mart Vrs said:

The fault I had with my twindoor was that neither of the boot lid buttons would work and the only access I had was boot not hatch and only via the remote, after much fumbling and stripping down I discovered that the fault was broken wiring which runs through the left-hand side of the boot/hatch via the hinge to the roof of the car, there were no fault codes showing on VCDS.
 
Once you understand it the twindoor system is not complicated, the main components are the usual centre mounted centrally locking boot lock, two electrically operated latches, one mounted each side of the luggage compartment, a bolt and hook assembly each side of the tailgate and the two boot lid switches.
 
Boot or Hatch mode is determined by the position that the side latches push the tailgate mounted bolt/hook assembly into, activated by pressing the relevant button(s) on the boot lid.
Pic below shows bolt/hook assembly exposed in hatch mode.
post-8340-0-40633800-1377185169_thumb.jpg
 
 
 
 
 
The following is a rough guide with some pictures to assist anyone attempting this repair, I’m not an expert and someone with more knowledge may have hints on refining this guide.
 
 
As only the boot lid will open the 1st task is to release the top glass part of the hatch from the car, this is done by removing the long torx headed pin from the side bolts on each side of the car, looking into the plastic covered hinge casing this is the bright metal pin pictured below.
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To do this
1, Remove the plastic trim button on each hinge cover (pic below)
post-8340-0-20983600-1377185278_thumb.jpg
 
 
 
 
2, unscrew and remove the side bolt retaining screw (pics show exposed head (tailgate open in this shot) and in situ (hatch closed) but without covers for clarity)
post-8340-0-72191000-1377185354_thumb.jpg
 
 
 
post-8340-0-93372500-1377185402_thumb.jpg
 
 
 
 
Now using a large flat bladed screwdriver or trim removal tool lever the side bolt/hook away from the upper tailgate mounted bracket, this is fiddly and required some jiggling from side to side however once free on both sides the upper tailgate can be raised, the amount of clearance required is only a little more than the thickness of the body coloured tailgate bracket.  Now recover the side bolt/hook components from wherever they may have fallen at each side of the car.
NOTE MY PIC SHOWS THE PIN YOU HAVE JUST REMOVED STILL IN PLACE.
post-8340-0-92538200-1377185482_thumb.jpg
 
 
 
 
Next remove the inner trim from the boot lid and the plastic covers from the upper part of the tailgate, on the upper part start with the horizontal trims then the side trims 1st removing the outer hinge covers (pic below),  these panels just pull away from the tailgate except for a small screw on each inner hinge cover
post-8340-0-71125000-1377185590_thumb.jpg
 
 
 
 
Working inside the boot lid release the wiring from its plugs, note the route and feed the wiring loom out of the lid through the hinge and free of the car to just past the damaged area, below are 2 pics of the wiring condition that greeted me! Plus stripped tailgate open.
post-8340-0-77580400-1377185655_thumb.jpg
 
 
 
post-8340-0-64302700-1377185691_thumb.jpg
 
 
 
post-8340-0-33755000-1377185722_thumb.jpg
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I repaired my loom but believe that a repair section is available from Skoda, the repair can just about be made without shortening the loom so much that it is strained at the boot lid connectors, when repairing the loom mark the wires carefully as some are the same colour!  Refit and connect the wiring.
 
Next you will need to close and lock the tailgate without refitting the side bolt/hook parts, this should lock the boot lid normally, now if all is well you should be able to unlock the boot IN HATCH MODE and the high level brake light will give its confirmation flash,   this will position the side latches to accept the hatchback in its complete state when you have finished. See below
1, latch in boot lid mode, you won’t be able to close the complete tailgate in this position!
post-8340-0-45917300-1377186322_thumb.jpg
 
 
 
 
2, latch in Hatch mode
post-8340-0-44987600-1377186019_thumb.jpg
 
 
 
Working with the hatch open refit the earlier removed screws and assemble the bolt/hook parts as shown below, note how the hook locks around the body coloured pin on the hinge, this locks the boot lid and upper glass into the complete hatchback.
post-8340-0-40633800-1377185169_thumb.jpg
 
 
 
 Now open and close via the boot lid buttons to confirm that all is working correctly, if it is the upper brakelight will give its confirmation flash and when closing the hatch you will hear its usual extra clunk as it is locked down by the side latches.
 Reassemble any removed trim,   job done!
 
Good Luck.

Its very helpful guide. I fixed mine twin door

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  • 4 months later...

After many error regarding bulbs from rear part of the vehicle it escalated to failure to open the trunk in full mode.

Wiring stretched and isolation compromised creating an erratic functioning of tailgate opening.

Replaced faulty wires from a British donor Jaguar XF - great quality :giggle:

WhatsApp Image 2019-01-16 at 21.42.17(1).jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2019-01-16 at 21.42.17(2).jpeg

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  • 3 months later...

Great writeup this, many thanks to Mart Vrs for it. 

 

Luckily mine had failed in "hatch open" mode so I didn't have any issues opening the hatch (or with the position of the side latches)

 

Just a couple of points to add. If I read the instructions correctly there should only be a single screw holding the inner boot/hatch covers, on my car there was also a screw at each end of this cover revealed by removing the horizontal screen surround covers so definitely worth getting these off first. Maybe my car is different, maye I misunderstood.

 

On my car 5 wires were completely severed (6 if you count the one which someone else had bypassed previously), including the 2 thicker, brown, CAN buss wires. Obviously I had no way of knowing which way around these should go. In the end I either got lucky (there's a 50% chance of getting it right) or the CAN wires can go any way. Fortunately only one of the purple wires was severed so no such problems there.

 

Of the remaining wires 3 more had obvious damage and one appeared  OK.  As I was adding some additional length I cut them all then trimmed all back 20mm at each end so that the new wire would be in the problem area.

 

Got to say that this wiring routing is really poor, folding the wire back against the edge of lip of the tube which makes up the hinge is just asking for failure.  And for what? OK the twin door is a great party trick but who would really miss it if they only ever had a hatch. No wonder Skoda reverted to that eventually.

Going to get in the habit of using hatch mode from now on.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Thank for the writups..   After reading a few . I realized that it is very few screws to remove. plastic clips and some pulling on metall spring clips mostly. 

Exchanged  0,5 meters of the 10 cables for soft high quality silicone isolated cable. Now works well and will probably outlast the car 

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi everyone! 

my Skoda Superb opens the boot’s door (the lid) after 5 seconds by itself. When I lock the latch with screwdriver on the boot’s door the operating mechanism moves to the right pulling the Tightening arm down, Just after 5 seconds that operating mechanism moves back to the left by itself and the tightening arm comes up (opens the boot’s door) but the hatch on the upper side remains locked until I press on the lock switch or by remote fob. 
 

When I close the boot and go sit in the car, it opens by itself so I need to drive with open boot, the boot is not coming up but it’s loose and makes noise. 
I can’t understand what’s the problem 
Anybody Has any clues 

thanks a lot 

A08B6B8F-DD3E-4B85-A944-2A144899F16E.png

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
On 31/01/2021 at 08:56, Skodaoctoviaestate2008 said:

I answer my own question in case someone have the same issue: opened the lock, dismantled it, a plastic gear was damaged, repaired installed the gear and installed the lock works great.

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Can you buy a replacement gear for the lock like the one for the A4 and mk5 golf?

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My curiosity having got the better of me after 59 postings I have to ask what is a "twin door"?

 

Is it a hatchback where you can open the bottom section seperately like a bootlid or a bootlid and opening rear screen like on a Hillman Pimp?

 

Or something else?

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Hi, I don’t think you can buy it separately but you could repair it yourself,

 It’s PA66 plastic hard enough not to break. 
 

it’s not breaking easily try to find the reason why it’s been damaged. Test 
the multi pin connector at the back of the lock if they work properly. 
See the pictures one of those female connector wasn't work probably that’s y it damaged the gear. 
 

 

AC015CAD-BBF0-47BF-BAEC-F44FE7CE3AA8.jpeg

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