Superb Twindoor wiring fix

[Imar]

Many thanks for the info. About understandable. But there is a problem. How to open the boot as I can only open half the trunk. According to instructions turn my large pins on both sides to eject her, but does not bagazine. What's next?

whole

  I know how to fix the other.

Edited 18 October, 2015 by Imar

[Imar]

Help my

Thank you very much for the info. About understandable. There is a problem. How do I open the hood, I can only open half hood. Under the guidance of the recess the pins on both sides, tailgate whole does not. What to do?

[Apoelara]

Hello,

 

I have a similar problem too.

 

The boot does not close properly. I have realised that when the small "boot door" is completely open there is current going through but when it is near the closing position there is no current. I managed to figure this out when I opened the boot slowly-slowly and at the same time I was measuring the current. So the reason of not closing properly is that the motor that the locker is connected with when the boot door is closed was not having current.

 

So I think that I have the same issue with the wire as explained above.

 

My problem is how to reach to the wires as the "large door" (hatch mode) cannon open. How can I remove the plastics?

 

Please help.

 

Thanks  a lot.

[Greenhouseblues]

Hi,

 

My 2010 Superb had the same problem. Suddenly the tail gate wouldn't open except when using the key fob and only able to open it in salon mode and not hatch.

 

After looking at the photos I slowly took things apart. I took out the side bolt retaining screws from both sides (Step 2) letting the washer drop into the plastic. I had trouble opening the boot into "hatch" mode, as it appeared to get stuck when I lifted the glass part. (The assembly around where I removed the bolts kept getting stuck here was very limited movement, maybe 1cm)  In the end I quite *forcefully* just pulled it and the glass section came up. It was at this point that the locking side latches popped out (with a wire spring). After a long search on the ground I found it (phew). I then reassembled the latches as in the pictures and put back the side bolts I removed. I followed the rest of the instructions and indeed 3 of my wires had broken and others were on the way out.

 

The job all in all took about 2 hours, with most of the delay being not being able to raise the glass after the bolts came out and not having the confidence to pull on the panels to get them off). If you've never taken the covers off that need to be taken off, the cracking and bending noises can be very off putting, just have faith. I only had to remove 3 screws in total. (1 from the main boot panel that holds the handle and 2 from the side plastics).

 

Did a temporary fix until the weather gets better so I can do a more permanent solution. Will be opening the boot in hatch mode to keep the strain off the wires a bit.

 

Glad everything is working now! Thanks for the guide.

[JohnMurphy]

The fault I had with my twindoor was that neither of the boot lid buttons would work and the only access I had was boot not hatch and only via the remote, after much fumbling and stripping down I discovered that the fault was broken wiring which runs through the left-hand side of the boot/hatch via the hinge to the roof of the car, there were no fault codes showing on VCDS.

 

Once you understand it the twindoor system is not complicated, the main components are the usual centre mounted centrally locking boot lock, two electrically operated latches, one mounted each side of the luggage compartment, a bolt and hook assembly each side of the tailgate and the two boot lid switches.

 

Boot or Hatch mode is determined by the position that the side latches push the tailgate mounted bolt/hook assembly into, activated by pressing the relevant button(s) on the boot lid.

Pic below shows bolt/hook assembly exposed in hatch mode.

Twindoor 4.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

The following is a rough guide with some pictures to assist anyone attempting this repair, I’m not an expert and someone with more knowledge may have hints on refining this guide.

 

 

As only the boot lid will open the 1^st task is to release the top glass part of the hatch from the car, this is done by removing the long torx headed pin from the side bolts on each side of the car, looking into the plastic covered hinge casing this is the bright metal pin pictured below.

Twindoor 2.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

To do this

1, Remove the plastic trim button on each hinge cover (pic below)

Twindoor 5.JPG

 

 

 

 

2, unscrew and remove the side bolt retaining screw (pics show exposed head (tailgate open in this shot) and in situ (hatch closed) but without covers for clarity)

Twindoor 6.JPG

 

 

 

Twindoor 3.JPG

 

 

 

 

Now using a large flat bladed screwdriver or trim removal tool lever the side bolt/hook away from the upper tailgate mounted bracket, this is fiddly and required some jiggling from side to side however once free on both sides the upper tailgate can be raised, the amount of clearance required is only a little more than the thickness of the body coloured tailgate bracket.  Now recover the side bolt/hook components from wherever they may have fallen at each side of the car.

NOTE MY PIC SHOWS THE PIN YOU HAVE JUST REMOVED STILL IN PLACE.

Twindoor 2.JPG

 

 

 

 

Next remove the inner trim from the boot lid and the plastic covers from the upper part of the tailgate, on the upper part start with the horizontal trims then the side trims 1^st removing the outer hinge covers (pic below),  these panels just pull away from the tailgate except for a small screw on each inner hinge cover

Twindoor 1.JPG

 

 

 

 

Working inside the boot lid release the wiring from its plugs, note the route and feed the wiring loom out of the lid through the hinge and free of the car to just past the damaged area, below are 2 pics of the wiring condition that greeted me! Plus stripped tailgate open.

Twindoor 7.JPG

 

 

 

Twindoor 8.JPG

 

 

 

Twindoor 9.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I repaired my loom but believe that a repair section is available from Skoda, the repair can just about be made without shortening the loom so much that it is strained at the boot lid connectors, when repairing the loom mark the wires carefully as some are the same colour!  Refit and connect the wiring.

 

Next you will need to close and lock the tailgate without refitting the side bolt/hook parts, this should lock the boot lid normally, now if all is well you should be able to unlock the boot IN HATCH MODE and the high level brake light will give its confirmation flash,   this will position the side latches to accept the hatchback in its complete state when you have finished. See below

1, latch in boot lid mode, you won’t be able to close the complete tailgate in this position!

DSC_2339.JPG

 

 

 

 

2, latch in Hatch mode

DSC_2347.JPG

 

 

 

Working with the hatch open refit the earlier removed screws and assemble the bolt/hook parts as shown below, note how the hook locks around the body coloured pin on the hinge, this locks the boot lid and upper glass into the complete hatchback.

Twindoor 4.JPG

 

 

 

 Now open and close via the boot lid buttons to confirm that all is working correctly, if it is the upper brakelight will give its confirmation flash and when closing the hatch you will hear its usual extra clunk as it is locked down by the side latches.

 Reassemble any removed trim,   job done!

 

Good Luck.

Hi,

 

I'm new to Skoda and this whole problem over the twin door wirign loom. So far, mine seems ok, but I'm wondering have people identified this problem occurring due to opening the small boot door, rather that the whole hatchback door? Would it be better practice to protect the life of the wiring loom to only start using the boot from now on with the full boot open, rather that just the same boot door?

[morm6677]

Thank you so much for your detailed fix, initially I thought it was a faulty microswitch but after buying and installing one and still not working decided to follow your instructions and found wires exactly as you've pictured.

Thank you again.

[dgoodtax101]

Hi,

 

I'm new to Skoda and this whole problem over the twin door wirign loom. So far, mine seems ok, but I'm wondering have people identified this problem occurring due to opening the small boot door, rather that the whole hatchback door? Would it be better practice to protect the life of the wiring loom to only start using the boot from now on with the full boot open, rather that just the same boot door?

I did until someone opened the sedan boot and snapped three wires that had been carefully teased into place, but I am awaiting the arrival of the complete rear loom from TPS tomorrow (fingers crossed as today they sent me the sedan boot lid loom) and will post the part number and also the location of the rear multiplex plug for that loom

[poolfan]

I did until someone opened the sedan boot and snapped three wires that had been carefully teased into place, but I am awaiting the arrival of the complete rear loom from TPS tomorrow (fingers crossed as today they sent me the sedan boot lid loom) and will post the part number and also the location of the rear multiplex plug for that loom

 

Hi, could you post the details of the loom please.

 

I'm looking at assembling parts for this repair

 

Option 1 - heat shrink crimp connectors to repair loom, using something like these, not sure of wire gauge though. 

• Could someone advise if I add in a series of these for all wires, will there be enough space for these wires to move in the space provided or is this too restrictive a fix?

Option 2 - replace wiring loom, price and complexity permitting.

 

Thanks

[poolfan]

I did until someone opened the sedan boot and snapped three wires that had been carefully teased into place, but I am awaiting the arrival of the complete rear loom from TPS tomorrow (fingers crossed as today they sent me the sedan boot lid loom) and will post the part number and also the location of the rear multiplex plug for that loom

 

could you please post the part number for loom?

[Danboag]

Just mended mine using this guide. Thanks for taking time to write it up.

[Skodatug]

Hi all

Firstly thanks for this post hopping to fix my right reversing light with that and also at the same time gettin rid of the error message on the mfd saying my left reversing light

The question i have is if your boot opens up in hatchback mode do i still need to remove the pins or only the trim.

Im thinking to solder extra wire in so in total the wire is longer so it will be saved from straining.

Thx in advance

Edited 13 November, 2016 by Skodatug

[Skodatug]

Hi all

Firstly thanks for this post hopping to fix my right reversing light with that and also at the same time gettin rid of the error message on the mfd saying my left reversing light

The question i have is if your boot opens up in hatchback mode do i still need to remove the pins or only the trim.

Im thinking to solder extra wire in so in total the wire is longer so it will be saved from straining.

Thx in advance

[Skodatug]

Hi all firstly thanks to mark vrs for encouraging me to do it myself and everthinks fine now.

Firstly thanks for this post hopping to fix my right reversing light with that and also at the same time gettin rid of the error message on the mfd saying my left reversing light

The question i have is if your boot opens up in hatchback mode do i still need to remove the pins or only the trim.

Im thinking to solder extra wire in so in total the wire is longer so it will be saved from straining.

Thx in advance

[Skodatug]

Thx to mart vrs for uploading this post and encoureging us all to DIY.

I JUST DONE MINE AND THE WIRES WHERE BROKEN SOME EXPOSED SO I CHOSED TO EXTEND ALL THE WIRES SO IT SHOULD BE FINE NOW. ALSO MY RIGHT REVERSING LIGHTS WORKING NOW FOLLOWING ARE SOME PICS I TOOK. I WAS STUCK WITH THE RIGHT SIDE TRIM UNTIL I REALISED THAT I NEED PUT A TORX IN THE HOOK AND UNSCREW IT.

[Davskin73]

The fault I had with my twindoor was that neither of the boot lid buttons would work and the only access I had was boot not hatch and only via the remote, after much fumbling and stripping down I discovered that the fault was broken wiring which runs through the left-hand side of the boot/hatch via the hinge to the roof of the car, there were no fault codes showing on VCDS.

 

Once you understand it the twindoor system is not complicated, the main components are the usual centre mounted centrally locking boot lock, two electrically operated latches, one mounted each side of the luggage compartment, a bolt and hook assembly each side of the tailgate and the two boot lid switches.

 

Boot or Hatch mode is determined by the position that the side latches push the tailgate mounted bolt/hook assembly into, activated by pressing the relevant button(s) on the boot lid.

Pic below shows bolt/hook assembly exposed in hatch mode.

Twindoor 4.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

The following is a rough guide with some pictures to assist anyone attempting this repair, I’m not an expert and someone with more knowledge may have hints on refining this guide.

 

 

As only the boot lid will open the 1^st task is to release the top glass part of the hatch from the car, this is done by removing the long torx headed pin from the side bolts on each side of the car, looking into the plastic covered hinge casing this is the bright metal pin pictured below.

Twindoor 2.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

To do this

1, Remove the plastic trim button on each hinge cover (pic below)

Twindoor 5.JPG

 

 

 

 

2, unscrew and remove the side bolt retaining screw (pics show exposed head (tailgate open in this shot) and in situ (hatch closed) but without covers for clarity)

Twindoor 6.JPG

 

 

 

Twindoor 3.JPG

 

 

 

 

Now using a large flat bladed screwdriver or trim removal tool lever the side bolt/hook away from the upper tailgate mounted bracket, this is fiddly and required some jiggling from side to side however once free on both sides the upper tailgate can be raised, the amount of clearance required is only a little more than the thickness of the body coloured tailgate bracket.  Now recover the side bolt/hook components from wherever they may have fallen at each side of the car.

NOTE MY PIC SHOWS THE PIN YOU HAVE JUST REMOVED STILL IN PLACE.

Twindoor 2.JPG

 

 

 

 

Next remove the inner trim from the boot lid and the plastic covers from the upper part of the tailgate, on the upper part start with the horizontal trims then the side trims 1^st removing the outer hinge covers (pic below),  these panels just pull away from the tailgate except for a small screw on each inner hinge cover

Twindoor 1.JPG

 

 

 

 

Working inside the boot lid release the wiring from its plugs, note the route and feed the wiring loom out of the lid through the hinge and free of the car to just past the damaged area, below are 2 pics of the wiring condition that greeted me! Plus stripped tailgate open.

Twindoor 7.JPG

 

 

 

Twindoor 8.JPG

 

 

 

Twindoor 9.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I repaired my loom but believe that a repair section is available from Skoda, the repair can just about be made without shortening the loom so much that it is strained at the boot lid connectors, when repairing the loom mark the wires carefully as some are the same colour!  Refit and connect the wiring.

 

Next you will need to close and lock the tailgate without refitting the side bolt/hook parts, this should lock the boot lid normally, now if all is well you should be able to unlock the boot IN HATCH MODE and the high level brake light will give its confirmation flash,   this will position the side latches to accept the hatchback in its complete state when you have finished. See below

1, latch in boot lid mode, you won’t be able to close the complete tailgate in this position!

DSC_2339.JPG

 

 

 

 

2, latch in Hatch mode

DSC_2347.JPG

 

 

 

Working with the hatch open refit the earlier removed screws and assemble the bolt/hook parts as shown below, note how the hook locks around the body coloured pin on the hinge, this locks the boot lid and upper glass into the complete hatchback.

Twindoor 4.JPG

 

 

 

 Now open and close via the boot lid buttons to confirm that all is working correctly, if it is the upper brakelight will give its confirmation flash and when closing the hatch you will hear its usual extra clunk as it is locked down by the side latches.

 Reassemble any removed trim,   job done!

 

Good Luck.

I'm going to attempt this, as soon as I can. I just hope all goes well. I'm worried about not having enough spare cable!

[dfsuperb]

Im just chancing my arm here.

 

I have no issue with the twindoor but have some unusual issues in the rear end that may be the same cause.

 

for 4 years now the rear heated window hasn't worked. I posted here.

Several garages have spend hours (and charged for hours) but no solution.

Fuses / relays etc all seem fine.

 

Now I have an issue with a reversing light not working.

I swapped the bulb and its not the issue and put a meter on it and there is no voltage.

One thing i notice is that the MFD says check the right reversing light but its the left one that isn't working.

 

The questions I have are 

 

1 - Are the twindoor, heated rear window and reversing and fog light cables all in the one loom and is it possible that they are damaged as the posts above.

2 - Is there a wiring diagram for the cables for all of the back of the car ?

 

One last question - as a temporary fix if I connect a jumper wire from the right reversing light to power up the left one will that be OK or will it cause an issue to the ECU ???

 

 

 

Edited 11 February, 2017 by dfsuperb

[matthewg]

The reverse light was one of my first issues with the whole boot door.

Initially I ran a cable from one to the other and it worked fine. 

 

I would say that some of your cables are broken. 

 

AFAIK, all the cables that provide power to the stuff in the boot door all come through the same point in the car. 

 

I've never seem a wiring diagram, just pictures that people have posted on here of the cables.

[dfsuperb]

Thanks Mathew for the fast reply.

 

Did yours deteriorate to other electrical components after that and were the breaks in the same location as others above... ?

 

If yes are you sorted now and did you fix it yourself or get someone to do it ?

 

Was thinking of an auto electrician as the garages would only be interested in replacing the whole loom Id think.

 

Ive test next week so the temp fix will help. Did you disconnect the +12v on the one not working or just connect the temp cable.

 

Last question . . I assume the temp fix didnt turn off the check bulb on the MFD.

 

[matthewg]

No problem Dfsuperb. 

 

Yes the boot door stopped opening from the door, I had to use the key all the time and only the saloon door would open. I never had the rear window not work (that I noticed)

 

Yes it's fixed now with no issues. I fixed it myself, there is plenty of space to play with these wires.

 

In regards to connecting the wires, I just ran one to the other. I cannot remember which way I did it

[dfsuperb]

5 hours ago, matthewg said:

No problem Dfsuperb. 

 

Yes the boot door stopped opening from the door, I had to use the key all the time and only the saloon door would open. I never had the rear window not work (that I noticed)

 

Yes it's fixed now with no issues. I fixed it myself, there is plenty of space to play with these wires.

 

In regards to connecting the wires, I just ran one to the other. I cannot remember which way I did it

 

Thanks for the feedback Matt.

I have the reversing light going temporarily and will see once the test is done on seeing if the heater stuff is broken.

 

Thnks again.

 

[Ason]

On 2013-08-22 at 17:55, Mart Vrs said:

Now using a large flat bladed screwdriver or trim removal tool lever the side bolt/hook away from the upper tailgate mounted bracket, this is fiddly and required some jiggling from side to side however once free on both sides the upper tailgate can be raised, the amount of clearance required is only a little more than the thickness of the body coloured tailgate bracket.  Now recover the side bolt/hook components from wherever they may have fallen at each side of the car.
NOTE MY PIC SHOWS THE PIN YOU HAVE JUST REMOVED STILL IN PLACE.

 

Thanks for this guide!!

I don't understand how to open the hatch, what should I release with screwdriver to open?

[oddvaoes]

How can I open the side lock (latch) on rear lid when rear lid is open (side lock (latch) is locked when the hole rear lid is open.

[dfsuperb]

Im going to tackle this job soon and wonder if anyone has a diagram of what each cable is ?

 

If not maybe those that have already fixed cables can identify what colour cables were broken that when fixed sorted their issue.

 

One other question. Was there enough slack to do a permanent job or should I extend the cables and is there enough space for joiners where the cables are for everything to fit back later.

[dfsuperb]

Eventually got to bring my car to a local auto electrician who had done a few of these recently and they replaced a section of the loom away from the tension area and all works fine again.

 

It was emotional to have the rear heated screen working after nearly 5 years.  

 

Really bad design from Skoda.... Probably why you dont see it in later versions.

[azrael373]

Hi

I had the same problem. There was 3 cables that was cutted, after fixing everything and push the rear window button it will open and show the brake light, but the brake light stay on for 3 sec and then when I press the tailgate button, it's closing the rear window bolt and will open only the tailgate.
What have I done wrong?
Thanks in advance

Edited 14 July, 2018 by azrael373