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Mk 3 Octy interior light requirements for LED replacement


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We'll finally got my delivery of LEDs long story what with holidays and my mate who ordered them going on holiday the day I got back!!!

Mate ordered them as I don't have a fleabay account!

10 LEDs finally fitted today and they all work! for how long ?we shall see.

Instant thought? yes a lot cleaner and brighter white light and no heat compared to the hot bulbs I removed!

Will have to wait till dark o'clock to see the impact when in the dark but happy so far!

Issues ?well maybe I was a bit to careful but didn't want to damage any trim so took a bit longer to do then I thought it would have !

Tools required a plastic knife, didn't have a trim tool but it did the job ok

Bit scary levering plastic trim of a 2month old vrs!!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Anybody got a photo, or decent description, of how to get to the front bulbs in the interior light on the vRS? It looks surprisingly sturdy and I have no idea where to jam a screwdriver?

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I wrapped electric tape and gently press it in almost at the corner. Squeeze the screwdriver handle against the mirror and the plastic glass will pop lose, use another screwdriver on the other edge (use two otherwise the last corner will pop back in).

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Cheers, my light unit is slightly different, but the same principle. Used a trim tool and it popped out easy.

 

Just for reference, if it's useful to anyone not buying the ledperf set, the numberplate lights need to be canbus error free LEDs as mine's throwing an error when the ignition's on, all the internal ones seem fine with cheap normal ones though.

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Cheers, my light unit is slightly different, but the same principle. Used a trim tool and it popped out easy.

Just for reference, if it's useful to anyone not buying the ledperf set, the numberplate lights need to be canbus error free LEDs as mine's throwing an error when the ignition's on, all the internal ones seem fine with cheap normal ones though.

That can be adjusted on vcds for LED no. Plate bulbs. Link in the vcds section. Edited by Bindinbear
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I found a LED alternative for T10.

I'm a little bit worried about the proper cooling of the LED chip...BUT my plan is to dim them with VCDS (I think they will be too bright). With this I can achieve longer lifetime.

My plan is to use them as license plate lights (dimmable), trunk lights (not dimmable as I know, but not a problem) and front side lights (dimmable).

I've already sent a message to the seller and asked about the sizes.

(And I'm going to ask if they are really equipped with genuine CREE's...)

Any thoughts...?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-hot-sale-real-parking-t10-1smd-high-power-led-reading-light-bulbs-w5w-auto-cree/1968387645.html

1_SMD_T10_CREE_sizes.jpg

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That can be adjusted on vcds for LED no. Plate bulbs. Link in the vcds section.

Unfortunately I've not got access to VCDS and it's a bit of a trek to get to someone who can do it for me,  just for some numberplate lights.

 

Also; I've just swapped the LEDs for some canbus ones and still getting the error. So unless anyone knows a specific LED that will work without the dash error I'm going to have to swap back to yellowy bulbs I think :(

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I've used the interior kit as well as the number plate lights from LEDperf all without any dash errors, although did show an error code when a full scan was done but I think this was caused when I swapped them over and not whilst being used.

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Are the ledperf ones just bulbs, or the whole unit? Superskoda also do a replacement unit for around the same price. But don't think I can justify £30 including postage just for number plate lights. Might see if I can find some blue tinted bulbs for the same look.

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Yeah, I think I need the massive resistor on the back to stop the errors. But £30 is just not worth it to me. I've ordered some cheapy bulbs with the blue coating to try and whiten the light. We'll see how that goes. I can replace them both 10 times before I've spent the cost of the LEDperf ones. So even if they're a bit dodgy I should be ok :)

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Yeah, I think I need the massive resistor on the back to stop the errors. But £30 is just not worth it to me. I've ordered some cheapy bulbs with the blue coating to try and whiten the light. We'll see how that goes. I can replace them both 10 times before I've spent the cost of the LEDperf ones. So even if they're a bit dodgy I should be ok :)

I think you will end up with reduced luminance and and an ugly color with the blue painted bulbs...

I have genuine Philips blue visions in my front headlight (as I have xenons + LED DRL) and the color is ugly (yellowish-bluish something), and not "cool white"...

I will change them to LEDs.

Anyway I ordered my LEDs from the chinese (one pair for "test")...so the 3-4 weeks waiting started...

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  • 3 weeks later...

I found a LED alternative for T10.

I'm a little bit worried about the proper cooling of the LED chip...BUT my plan is to dim them with VCDS (I think they will be too bright). With this I can achieve longer lifetime.

My plan is to use them as license plate lights (dimmable), trunk lights (not dimmable as I know, but not a problem) and front side lights (dimmable).

I've already sent a message to the seller and asked about the sizes.

(And I'm going to ask if they are really equipped with genuine CREE's...)

Any thoughts...?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-hot-sale-real-parking-t10-1smd-high-power-led-reading-light-bulbs-w5w-auto-cree/1968387645.html

1_SMD_T10_CREE_sizes.jpg

The T10 LED bulbs have just arrived.

I'm very happy with them. :)

Nice and very bright light (I have ordered cool white).

One side design, almost 180 degree light pattern, ideal.

Highly recommended :)

Not as blueish as in the pictures (took them with my phone).

I think the color temperature is ~5000 K.

I have installed them as license plate lights and immediately ordered a few more lots (for entry lights, side lights, trunk lights, etc)...

Additional (and high-res) pics here: http://postimg.org/gallery/26oz1wzde/

IMG_1004.jpg?noCache=1416779396IMG_0996.jpg?noCache=1416777912IMG_1013.jpg?noCache=1416777912IMG_0997.jpg?noCache=1416779396IMG_0971.jpg?noCache=1416777912

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Did you need to use VCDS to stop the error with these?

The bulbs are not "CAN-BUS friendly" so you'll need VCDS or additional resistors for license plate light or side light.

I think the other (interior) W5W bulbs are not monitored by the system - no coding required.

As the CAN-BUS cancellers (resistors) are missing the bulbs doesn't generate additional heat.

They run at lower temperature than a standard W5W.

Edited by aki78
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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Hi all, on a similar subject, I want to change my H7 headlight to HID but it has a metal clip all the way round it, do I need a special tool to get the old bulbs out?

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  • 7 months later...

Hi everyone, 

 

I've swapped my interior lights to Phillips LEDs, and my cateye illumination has stopped working. Did anyone else have this problem? 

Thank you

Edited by SidDelicious
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Changed the front interior lights to leds. Now somehow when I put my interior lights on my boot sensor thinks my boot is open for 1 second then clears, this does this at 1 second intervals until I turn the interior lights off. Anyone had this before or have a fix for this?

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  • 10 months later...
  • 10 months later...
On 9/19/2014 at 00:25, h3srr said:

Hi

I have started to change my bulbs to LED's. But how do you remove the rear ones from an Octavia with glass roof?

Many thanks

Steve

 

Are these bulbs for this - 36/38mm festoons?

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