Removing The Roof Rails

[aerofurb]

Roof rails can actually be removed very easily.

 

Each roof rail is held in place by four 2" (or so) long splined Torx bolts (M5) which screw into retained nuts inside the Yeti roof - no need to disturb the headlining as it's all done by outside.

 

To access the bolts, the front and rear covers must first be removed. To do this 'peel' the covers outboard to unclip them and then slide forwards (rearwards for the rear cover...) as they also engage under/into the roof rail centre section. 

 

The rails locate in two 1/2" (or so) square holes at either end. According to the workshop manual, the screws are torqued to 23 Nm.

 

Picture of front right roof rail attach bolts:

 

[ottoskoda]

Hi

 

Just bought a white 1.2 Elegance and I don't think I'll be using the bars so this sounds like a good idea. What did you use to cover the holes with after you had taken the bars off? Just worried about water leakage.

 

Thanks

[james0james]

I am thinking of getting a roof wrap and was thinking about temporary removal of them rails  and headlining,as aerofurb has confirmed removal is from outside only.

 

http://etka.cc/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/YET/year/2015/drive_standart/779/hg_ug/853/subcategory/853030/part_id/2545308/lang/e

 

Not sure about permanent removal of the rails,maybe someone has done this but warranty issues come to mind. 

Edited 23 September, 2016 by james0james

[ausbinny]

Hi

Just bought a white 1.2 Elegance and I don't think I'll be using the bars so this sounds like a good idea. What did you use to cover the holes with after you had taken the bars off? Just worried about water leakage.

Thanks

Put the screws back in (check the length 1st you may need to get shorter screws) with an appropriate sized O ring at the top Edited 25 September, 2016 by ausbinny

[mannyo]

Hi

 

Just bought a white 1.2 Elegance and I don't think I'll be using the bars so this sounds like a good idea. What did you use to cover the holes with after you had taken the bars off? Just worried about water leakage.

 

Thanks

 

 

Not sure anybody has permanently removed them, I believe the first instance was to enable replacement with silver roof rails in place of the standard ones. Water ingress without them will occur, so if you want it look like they were never there the holes would need to be welded over, filled and then painted. TBH I would just leave it as is, even if you don't use the rails.

[137699]

You would need to fill the holes and paint.

 

Looks bloody good though!

 

[Clive]

Oooo I like the little roof spoiler.

[Jonnick]

On 29/09/2016 at 10:50, Clive said:

Oooo I like the little roof spoiler.

Roof spoiler is on my list, got to find someone to spray it first.

[137699]

On ‎14‎/‎03‎/‎2017 at 17:19, Jonnick said:

Roof spoiler is on my list, got to find someone to spray it first.

 

Don't bother - it's crap. They're made from poor quality plastic that just cracks after a while.

I have had two of them (different designs) but the same happened to both after just a few months.

[Jonnick]

Did you buy the roof spoiler from the official Skoda site ,(SuperSkoda.com) ,they say it's the real thing and not eBay copy...?....Real Martinek part...? Please can you let me know as to not waste time and money....... Thanks.   Jonnick...I found an eBay site that sold two different types but the superskoda.com site was different to those......?

Edited 16 March, 2017 by Jonnick
Forgot some information

[Llanigraham]

SuperSkoda is NOT an official Skoda site. They are an independent company.

[Jonnick]

3 hours ago, Llanigraham said:

SuperSkoda is NOT an official Skoda site. They are an independent company.

That doesn't matter, what does is the quality of merchandise and I've now ordered many items, the service is fast, efficient, quality goods and I've always found them helpful in adapting parts that are not meant for RHD vehicles. So you tell me what difference does it make?

[Llanigraham]

You made a misleading statement. I was correcting that. 

You stated they were from an "official Skoda site", which may signify to people that Skoda have approved the parts they sell, approve the way they market those goods, and the way they guarantee them. In fact they are nothing at all to do with Skoda, have not been approved by them, and are just a standard, mostly web based company that happens to sell bits that fit Skoda cars. 

 

[137699]

Yes both came from superskoda.

After the first one cracked (all around the high level brake light) I bought the updated (new shape) design. A few months later and that cracked in the same place.

 

It's a shame as it's a nice addition - just that the quality of plastic is poor. Have considered taking a mould and getting someone to remanufacture it in better grade ABS plastic.

 

 

[Jonnick]

11 hours ago, 137699 said:

Yes both came from superskoda.

After the first one cracked (all around the high level brake light) I bought the updated (new shape) design. A few months later and that cracked in the same place.

 

It's a shame as it's a nice addition - just that the quality of plastic is poor. Have considered taking a mould and getting someone to remanufacture it in better grade ABS plastic.

 

 

Thankyou for your efforts in showing me the crack in the spoiler, i definitely won't be fitting one of those. 

[laur]

On 08/09/2014 at 00:35, aerofurb said:

Roof rails can actually be removed very easily.

 

Each roof rail is held in place by four 2" (or so) long splined Torx bolts (M5) which screw into retained nuts inside the Yeti roof - no need to disturb the headlining as it's all done by outside.

 

To access the bolts, the front and rear covers must first be removed. To do this 'peel' the covers outboard to unclip them and then slide forwards (rearwards for the rear cover...) as they also engage under/into the roof rail centre section. 

 

The rails locate in two 1/2" (or so) square holes at either end. According to the workshop manual, the screws are torqued to 23 Nm.

 

Picture of front right roof rail attach bolts:

 

If i remove the roof rails and the screws, what will remain there?? Holes??

[aerofurb]

Hi. I've had a look at the photos I took back when we swapped the roof rails but I don't have any with the rails removed, sorry - and I can't remember! 

 

Edit.... Here's a zoomed in crop of a picture whilst the rails were removed showing the 'oversize' rail attachment holes. I have a feeling there were floating anchor nuts inside the roof that the rails bolted to, ie nuts you don't need to put a spanner on and they 'float' allowing a bit of movement to allow parts to be better aligned. We use them quite a lot on light aircraft - but not as big as on the Yeti!

 

Edited 7 April, 2020 by aerofurb

[muppix]

On 07/04/2020 at 22:04, aerofurb said:

I have a feeling there were floating anchor nuts inside the roof that the rails bolted to, ie nuts you don't need to put a spanner on and they 'float' allowing a bit of movement to allow parts to be better aligned.

 

I'm interested in mounting an amateur radio antenna to my roof rail and one of the biggest challenges is getting the coaxial cable from the inside of the car to the outside of the roof. To save me pulling off the plastic cover (and inevitably breaking something) can you remember if those floating anchor nuts are blind, or if I'd be able to pass a cable through there once the bolt is removed? I accept that the rail's carrying capacity would be drastically compromised with just one remaining bolt at one end, but all that's ever going up there is a small antenna so I'm not too bothered.

[aerofurb]

On 26/09/2021 at 14:12, muppix said:

 

I'm interested in mounting an amateur radio antenna to my roof rail and one of the biggest challenges is getting the coaxial cable from the inside of the car to the outside of the roof. To save me pulling off the plastic cover (and inevitably breaking something) can you remember if those floating anchor nuts are blind, or if I'd be able to pass a cable through there once the bolt is removed? I accept that the rail's carrying capacity would be drastically compromised with just one remaining bolt at one end, but all that's ever going up there is a small antenna so I'm not too bothered.

 

I honestly can't remember but I would hazard a guess that they aren't blind nuts (more expensive and no real need for them to be blind) so you should be able to use one as a guide hole or perhaps drill a new hole just for the task?