It's On My Driveway! Random additions.

[KBPhoto]

Remove the battery connectors in the engine bay now as you'll be turning to the electrics.

 

Run the cable along the sill. Depending upon how well you have removed the trim depends upon how easy this is and where you'll be able to put it all. With enough patience and room you can get it all under the sill and carpet with all the other wires. One ended up part under and part on top. Watch out for the holes with sharp edges and just run the cables through the holes with rounded edges if you do decide to go under the sill metal work.

 

The cables are exactly the right length - so don't leave any excess at any point otherwise you may find yourself short at the fuse board end.

 

Photograph the fuse board before removing as you'll want to know which ones go where when you put them all back. You will need to remove them as you'll not be able to undo the pink retaining clip on the back to allow the terminals to be removed or new ones added.

 

Undo the two torx screws holding the fuse board in place and drop the board into the cabin.

 

 

Locate the BCM (Body Control Module) which is behind the relays. You do not need to remove this, just unplug the brown connector on the right. It is labelled 'C' on the BCM, but I doubt you'll be able to see that. There is a little push tab on the end and then lever the white arm down. This also pushes the connector out of the BCM.

 

 

Cut off the cable tie and slide the terminal connector out of the cover / sleeve. Then separate the two parts to give you this:

 

 

Refer to the instruction manual very carefully to ensure that your remove the correct terminals from the block (15, 16 & 17). It is at this point that I had to resort to Google Translate as the colours are labelled as 15: or/gn, 16 or/br and 17 sw/ro. or = orange, gn = green but sw = black (schwarz in German) and ro = red (rot in German).

 

With the three terminal removed, insert the appropriate three cables from the new loom into their places and the three removed wires into the supplied new terminal block. Easy really.

 

 

You will need a tool to remove the terminals. I used a Laser Terminal Tool 3932 which worked well with the exception of the fuse board, but that is not done to the tool... In order to remove terminals from the fuse board you need to remove the fuses and also release the pink cage on the back. There are two triangular clips that stop it form sliding. these need to be released by prising the black plastic outwards and sliding the whole pink cage forwards. I really struggled with this and found that I could not move the cage forwards enough to keep the clips out the way of the terminals. Got there eventually, but there is obviously a knack that I didn't have.

 

You'll now have four terminal from the loom to add to the fuse board and an extra mini-loom to connect terminals 21 and 9 into before connecting the other ends into the fuse board:

 

 

 

All wires inplace on the back of the fuse board. Do look very closely at the manual as this is reasonably clear. Although the diagram shows the back of the fuse board which confused me for a while.

 

I had a minor panic at one point as the wires are labelled SC2 li/ro and SC3 ge/ro. Again Google Translate to the rescue  and in German 'ro' is red, 'li' is lila or purple and 'ge' is gelb or yellow. Finally getting pins 2 & 3 the right way round and it was now going very well.

 

Here's the offending page in the manual:

 

 

 

The fuse board with just the extra fuses in place:

 

 

This brings me to my only criticism of the whole Skoda kit: the size of the connector to use at this point. For just two pins, the block can house 6. And is a large one. It all fits no problem (see second picture) but it seems excessive considering how good the rest of the kit is.

 

 

 

Carefully put all the trim back together ensuring the lower B-pillar is slid in from the front to the back - look carefully at the pins and you'll see what I mean. Put the fuses back and reconnect the battery.

 

You will need to reset the one touch windows (wind window down and press button again. Wind up and lift lever again. Repeat for all windows) and also the steering angle sensor fault (drive in a straight line for a boy 20 meters) and also need to recode the car using VCDS. As different controllers are slightly different I'll not give full details of mine, just check yours carefully on the instructions on the Ross Tech Wiki.

 

At this point you should have a fully functioning 13-pin trailer light socket. I have yet to test mine as I do not yet have anything to plug into it...

 

Fingers crossed it is all OK and works as it should...

 

The finished product after all the hard work:

 

[KBPhoto]

As if by coincidence, the next set of upgrades arrived in the post today after much deliberation and trial runs with inferior LED bulbs:

 

 

Ordered from PowerBulbs (a forum sponsor with our discount code) on Tuesday evening. Not cheap, but much better than the cheap ones I've used so far. And with free W5W sidelight bulbs (worth £14.99???)

 

Fitting is straight forward.

 

Osram Warm White 4000k 38mm festoon:

 

 

6400k cheap SMB LED 39mm:

 

 

And in the front (matching Osram 4000k W5W on the left, cheap 6400k SMB LED on the right):

 

 

I'll see what it is like after dark, but they are brighter than standard bulbs but possibly not as bright as the cheap ones in the rear, but the fronts look brighter (more directed light possibly?). However the colour is much warmer (naturally) and more pleasant to my eye than the harsh white (blue?) LED ones I had previously.

 

The 38 mm Osram bulbs fit without issue in the Yeti rear interior lights, the 39 mm LEDs needed one of the metal prongs to be bent slightly to accommodate it and even then it was tight.

 

I will get around to washing the car this week...

[KBPhoto]

Finally made the decision between a small trailer with roof bars and four individual bike racks on top and a tow bar bike rack - and went for the rack: an Atera Strada DL3 with the fourth bike attachment (which I have yet to fit).

 

 

I fitted it today and tested the electrics:

• The electrics did not go bang;
• The lights all worked (including twin fog lights and reversing lights);
• The OPS showed a trailer attached;
• The parking sensors did not activate.

 

So I think that I did it right and am quite happy with the set up.

 

 

 

Let's hope the summer continues and I can get out biking with the family to justify the cost of the towbar and the rack.

[YetiVRS]

Very nice, I've got that bike rack for my Yeti! paid a dealer to do the tow bar though....how much did all the bits come to? not that I would ever had time to do what you have done but its nice to know how much I could of saved!

[KBPhoto]

Towbar & electrics cost me €300 + €60 delivery (I ordered quite a few other items at the same time).

It then cost me £14 to send the electrics back and get a proper Skoda set.

So was about £280 at the exchange rate at the time.

[KBPhoto]

After a recent wash I noticed some black marks along the bottom edges of the rear doors that had been resprayed this year.

I also noticed quite a large patch of paint coming away and rusting under the rear wiper arm spindle where the glass meets the boot.

So, it's back to the dealer this week and I've got a 1.0 Mk3 Fabia on loan. Seems OK so far.

I just need to await the dealer getting back to me regarding both paint problems.

[KBPhoto]

I'm patiently waiting for my Yeti to be returned from the approved body shop as the rear doors need to be sorted again and I'm having the dent in the bonnet and a few other marks on the bonnet fully sorted.

Following its return I'll be looking at a serious detailing / protection of the new paintwork, trim, glass, etc. before looking at the interior leather and carpets.

So far I've done some windows with Gtechniq sealant and some aztec trim with Getechniq Permanent Trim Restorer.

The front windscreen seems to be holding up well for beading ability, although it only really comes into effect at about 40-45mph now (after three months).

The Permanent Trim Restorer I applied the other day is fantastic. Amazing. Brilliant.

I put some on a piece of trim on SWMBO's very neglected 2003 Fabia and it made a very faded piece of trim look new. (Pictures to come)

I've done about half of the trim on the Yeti (and there is wants of it) and still got well over half s bottle left.

A little does go a long way. I think I used about 5-6 drops on each roof rail. (Pictures to come)

Next steps will be tyres, remaining glass (including sunroof), remaining plastic trim, and a sealant on the paint. I like the sound of Liquid Element's Eco Ceramic sealant as it is one of the hardest I've read about. Should be ideal on the newly painted bodywork.

More to come when the beast is back on my driveway.

[domhnall]

What do you use to apply it? The wee pads it came with ran out ages ago and I've not applied any since but with a new car coming this week I'm wanting to treat all the trim

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[KBPhoto]

I've still got a few of the supplied pads left and should have enough to do the trim although may need some more for the glass.

When they have run out I'll experiment with some different pads bought in a recent Group Buy or get some make-up pads similar to the Gtechniq ones from a supermarket.

[KBPhoto]

Will be picking it up again after the bodyshop has had it for almost two weeks to respray the rear doors (again) and the bonnet. Lets hope they have got it right this time round...

 

Then I'll be able to get on with the rest of the plastic trim and the glass, treat the tyres, seal the new paint, polish and seal the old paint (with Liquid Elements Eco Ceramic probably) and post some more pictures.

 

Then I'll have to get used to driving it again after having a little, low spec Fabia Mk3...

[KBPhoto]

Added an unexpected mod today which cost less than £5.00 - dampers on the interior grab handles.

 

Have a look at this thread on here for details and videos I posted of the damped handles in action.

 

Not exactly a riveting Hollywood blockbuster, but it brings a smug smile to my face knowing they are all working.

[KBPhoto]

I had 'that letter' from Skoda today...

It seems my car is affected by the diesel emissions scandals!

Let's see where this one leads......

[KBPhoto]

Latest addition is an under seat drawer on the driver's side. And what a pain that turned out to be!

 

Initially the dealer ordered the parts for the passenger side despite me making it quite clear that it was for the passenger side of a LHD Yeti.

 

That was a pain to fit and then I discovered that the extra parts I was told I would need (rubber stops and drawers slides) were actually fitted already to either the drawer itself or the frame! Wasted money there.

 

To make it worse, I had to go back to order two speed nuts as these were not fitted to the seat base and an additional hex nut as they had supplied two but three were needed. And the speed nuts were slightly too wide to fit in the paces on the seat base so I have had to bodge it, broke one and could not get the hex nut into the second.

 

Not the first time my local dealer has not been able to supply the correct parts even with their electronic parts catalogue...

 

Would I do this one again? Probably not; but if I did then at least I know what to look for in the future!

[KBPhoto]

Under seat frame (5N0 882 600):

 

Both slides (5N0 881 203) were already fitted to the frame:

  

 

The rubber bump stops (6Q0 882 331) were already fitted to the drawer. While the catalogue says that four are required, I could only see where two were and there was no where else to fit anymore.

 

Fit the speed nuts into the seat base at this point. The ones I had were too wide to fit in the cutouts correctly hence why I ended up bending one and later discovered that the bit in the seat base had detached itself from the bit outside and was spinning. Fortunately, I had got the nut down up reasonably tight before this became apparent.

 

The frame needs to slide into these two guides on the seat base:

This one  goes here 

And this one  goes here 

 

I removed the seat and tilted it backwards in the car to gain better access.

 

One speed nut was already in place near the seat height adjuster:

 

The plastic side panel on the seat does get in the way and can be moved out if the nut near the speed nut is first removed. It is not quite visible in the picture below, but it joins the metal rounded bar to the plastic mount just above the speed nut.

 

Here's the finished article. Even though it only has two of the nuts fitted (the outer two), it seems very secure.

  

 

 

[KBPhoto]

Finally managed to change the boot screen on the Columbus to the new logo.

Only the steering wheel badge to go... I have a Plan B (Plan A didn't work and Plan C is too expensive).

Pictures and info to come...

[Yearofthegoat]

On 27/05/2015 at 21:52, KBPhoto said:

Lets return to the rear bumper section and remove the crash bar to fit the towbar.

 

My crash bar was held in with three T45 Torx screws on the near side and four on the off side. All were quite easy to undo and the crash bar quite easy to remove in comparison to my Octavia estate which had lots of 'gunk' holding it in and blocking the Torx heads.

 

 

 

After cleaning up the area where the crash bar was and putting the bolts back in the holes I would definitely spray it with Waxoyl (£8.99 for 800ml from Halfords). I did this later and found it awkward to cover the area evenly working around the fitted towbar.

 

On the internet there are mixed reviews of Waxoyl spray (clumping, propellant running out, etc.) but I did not experience these myself. Yes, the spray wasn't as even as I had hoped, but warming it (and keeping it pretty warm) helped and I got the job done without issue or using the recommended nozzle (just as well as one was not supplied).

Am putting a tow bar on my Superb and was just going to post a 'what bolt is this' question, but you've answered it for me - cheers!

 

(Bought some Waxoyl spray too. 👍)

 

(And sorry for the necropost but I wanted to say thanks)

Edited 15 August, 2020 by Yearofthegoat

[B33fy]

A big thank you to KBphoto if your still around, if not then a huge thank you anyway. The advice on the tow bar fitting was invaluable and I can honestly say I couldn’t have done it without the guide in the thread and thumbing the instructions to death. I fitted a Westfalia detachable bar, bumper cut out cover plate and non tow bar prep wiring loom. A tricky job that took two days with the challenges of removing and replacing a lot of trim and electrics in confined spaces, both not my forte, with patience being the key to a successful job. Thanks again KB🙂👍

 

Off tomorrow to get the car coded and checked out. Fingers crossed all will be good.🤞🙂

[sneznymuz]

On 10/12/2014 at 22:11, KBPhoto said:

I'm just waiting for the proper Skoda wiring kit to arrive, then I'll fit the bumper and wiring and get some pictures of that part of the process.

 

Even with the proper kit and the instructions, I am a little apprehensive about removing terminals from the fuse board and ECM(?) and plugging in all the new parts. Especially as I have so far failed in all my attempts to remove terminals from connectors indoors in the warm, let alone in the cramped cold car.

Hi there!

This weekend I started to try and fit an original towbar to our Yeti which I thought was prepared for the task. However when I eventually got to the point of mounting the 13-pin connector and the control unit I found out that the car was missing the preparation cable. Now I'm standing for the task of acquiring the cable and then install it. Where did you source your cable from or was it part of the kit you got? Do you or someone else know the name of the cable (original part #). Having hard time finding the parts name. have only found one online retailer of it but they don't have the actual original part name for it on their site.

[B33fy]

Not sure KBPhoto is still around as the thread is pretty old. I got mine from the dealers so I knew it would be correct rather than a pattern loom.

[sneznymuz]

On 03/07/2022 at 12:50, sneznymuz said:

Hi there!

This weekend I started to try and fit an original towbar to our Yeti which I thought was prepared for the task. However when I eventually got to the point of mounting the 13-pin connector and the control unit I found out that the car was missing the preparation cable. Now I'm standing for the task of acquiring the cable and then install it. Where did you source your cable from or was it part of the kit you got? Do you or someone else know the name of the cable (original part #). Having hard time finding the parts name. have only found one online retailer of it but they don't have the actual original part name for it on their site.

EEA630001E4 is the parts number.